DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Don't Leaf Me Behind

Knitted square jacket with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS 184-32
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-069
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
750-900-1000-1100 g colour 03, beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 MM for garter stitch – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, (marker thread), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off using a ½ needle size larger.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked in the round into a square with double pointed needles/circular needle starting from mid back. Cast off for the armholes, then continue the square to finished length. Then work back and forth, out to each side towards mid front of the jacket, but without increasing. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 8-8-8-8 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and Cotton Merino. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 a total of 4 times on the round - read PATTERN above. Change to circular needle when necessary. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the whole of diagram A.1 has been completed there are 128 stitches on the round. Insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows: insert the first marker at the beginning of the round, the second marker after the next 32 stitches, the third after 32 stitches and the fourth after 32 stitches; allow the markers to follow your work onwards.
Now work pattern as follows: Work * A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.3 over the next 28 stitches (= 2 repeats of 14 stitches) and A.4 (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When A.2/A.3/A.4 have been completed in height there are 60 stitches between each marker (= 240 stitches on the round).
Now work pattern as follows: Work * A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.3 over the next 56 stitches (= 4 repeats of 14 stitches) and A.4 (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When A.2/A.3/A.4 have been completed in height there are 88 stitches between each marker (= 352 stitches on the round).
Continue pattern in this way - each time the diagrams are repeated in height, work 2 more repeats of A.3 between A.2 and A.4 (= 8 increased repeats on the round). When the square measures approx. 36-38-40-42 x 36-38-40-42 cm (adjust so that the next round is without yarn overs) cast off for the armholes as follows: Cast off the first 38-42-44-46 stitches for armhole, work until there are 38-42-44-46 stitches left before the fourth marker, cast off the next 38-42-44-46 stitches for armhole, work as far as the first marker. On the next round cast on 38-42-44-46 stitches over the armholes; the stitches are then worked into the pattern. Continue the pattern until A.3 has been completed a total of 3-4-4-4 times in height (there is now 1-½-1-1 repeat left in height before finished measurement of square). Now work the first 22-10-22-22 rounds as before. Work the next round in the diagrams, but skip the first 2 yarn overs in A.2 and skip the last yarn over in A.4.
The next round in the pattern is worked as follows: NOTE: Skip the first 2 squares in A.2 and skip the last square in A.4 - Work from the first to the second marker and place these 141-155-169-169 stitches on 1 thread (= left front piece), work to the third marker and place these 141-155-169-169 stitches on 1 thread (= bottom edge), work to the fourth marker and place these 141-155-169-169 stitches on1 thread (= right front piece), work to the first marker = 141-155-169-169 stitches left on needle (= neckline). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 RIDGES back and forth - see description above, over these stitches. Loosely cast off - read CASTING OFF TIP above. Place the 141-155-169-169 stitches from the bottom edge on circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth over these stitches, loosely cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Place the 141-155-169-169 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Start from the right side and work as follows: Knit up 3 stitches in the side of the ridges from the neckline, work A.5 (= 7 stitches) - read PATTERN above, work A.6 (= 14 stitches) a total of 9-9-11-11 times in width, work A.7 (= 8 stitches) and knit up 3 stitches in the side of the ridges from the bottom edge = 147-161-175-175 stitches. The 3 stitches in each side are continued in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until A.5/A.6/A.7 have been completed 2-2-2-2 times in height, then work the first 0-0-0-12 rows in the pattern. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges, loosely cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Place the 141-155-169-169 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work as for left front piece, but the first row starts with knitting up stitches in the side of the ridges from the bottom edge and finishes with knitting up stitches in the side of the ridges from the neckline.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 75-85-89-93 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and Cotton Merino. Insert 1 marker at the start of the round, allow the marker to follow your work onwards = mid under sleeve. Work the next round as follows: Knit 30-35-37-39 stitches, diagram A.8 (= 15 stitches), knit 30-35-37-39 stitches. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 2 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker - read DECREASE TIP above. Decrease in this way every 3-2½-2½-2½ cm a total of 14-17-18-19 times = 47-51-53-55 stitches. When the piece measures 48-49-54-54 cm - adjust to after the 12th or 24th round in the pattern, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 2 RIDGES - see description above. Loosely cast off. Work one more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves. Close the hole from the cast on edge mid-back by basting up and down, then tighten and fasten the thread.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to prevent a hole
symbols = refers to the last 2 rounds in pattern
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Lilli Saranpää wrote:

Tack för svaret. Jag förklarade otydligt. När det är 169 maskor på varje sida ska man börja med framstycket. när 4 rapporter finns på höjden, räknat från armhålet. Nu har jag redan 179 maskor på varje sida och saknar ännu fjärde rapporten. Jag har alltså inte ännu börjat med framochtillbaka- skedet. Jag har gjort alla hoptagningar. Annars skulle ju mönstret inte stämma. Vet inte hur jag ska fortsätta.

20.04.2023 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lilli, har lidt svært ved at forstå nøjagtig hvor du er... men har du hoppet over omslagene i A.2 og A.4? Du bør kun have 169 masker når du fortsætter med A.5,A.6,A.7 som er helt uden udtagninger.

25.04.2023 - 15:42

country flag Lilli Saranpää wrote:

Hej Det ska stickas 4 rapporter av A3 efter armhålet. Avkastning på två sidor och stickning på två sidor. Nu har jag redan 179 maskor på varje sida fast jag inte har rapporterna färdiga. Vad gör jag fel?

16.04.2023 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Det ska ökas 14 maskor i varje rapport med A.2/A.4. Kontrollera noggrannt att du gjort alla minskningar i diagrammen. Rutorna med svarta cirklar ska stickas avigt från rätsidan och räta från avigsidan.

20.04.2023 - 17:04

country flag Julie wrote:

Bonjour, Je n’arrive pas à trouver le single qui donne cette consigne dans le patron. faire 1 jeté entre 2 mailles, au rang suivant tricoter le jeté torse pour éviter un trou

07.11.2022 - 02:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Julie, vous retrouvez ce symbole au tout premier rang de A.1: vous tricotez ainsi: *1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté*, et répétez de *-*; au tour suivant, (tricotez les jetés torse. Bon tricot!

07.11.2022 - 09:55

country flag Sabine wrote:

Would you be so kind putting this pattern in the Ravelry database? (somehow it was forgotten in this issue...)

15.11.2020 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sabine, thanks for noticing! you will now find this pattern in Ravelry here. Happy knitting!

16.11.2020 - 10:31

country flag Joubert Patricia wrote:

Bonsoir ! merci pour votre réponse ; mais impossible d'enlever des favoris . J'ai suivi vos conseils , rien ne marche ! ce n'est pas grave . Merci encore .

11.09.2019 - 23:14

country flag Joubert Patricia wrote:

Bonjour ! j'ai réussi à ajouter dans mes favoris , bien que ce soit 1 carré et non 1 cœur à côté de "imprimer " ; mais je ne vois pas de croix sur les photos des favoris ???? Merci pour vos explications .

06.09.2019 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Joubert, en fonction du fond de la photo, il est possible que cette croix soit moins visible, car cette croix est légèrement grisée, en cliquant dans le coin à droite de la photo, vous pouvez le supprimez, n'hésitez pas à essayer sur un modèle avec un fond plus clair. Bon crochet!

09.09.2019 - 08:04

country flag Joubert Patricia wrote:

Bonjour ! comment ajouter 1 modèle dans mes favoris , et comment retirer 1 favori ? Merci pour tous vos jolis tricots .

06.09.2019 - 03:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Joubert, pour ajouter un modèle à vos favoris, cliquez sur le petit coeur à droite de l'icône pour imprimer, indiquez votre adresse mail, et "envoyer", vous verrez la liste de vos favoris s'afficher. Pour retirer un modèle de vos favoris, cliquez sur la croix en haut à droite de la photo dans la liste de vos favoris. Bon tricot!

06.09.2019 - 08:29

country flag Maria Carlsson wrote:

Hej! Jag igen, jag har läst igenom beskrivningen och blir inte klok. Fastnat i meningen ”När rutan mäter ca 36 cm *36 cm osv maskas det av för ärmhål” Det jag inte förstår är hur jag ska mäta rutan, hur, var mäter jag rutan? Antal maskor på varvet är 352 st, 20 m är 10cm, så varvet borde vara ca 176cm, hittar inga rutor att mäta, bara trianglar möjligtvis? Hoppas på hjälp, klarhet.

19.04.2019 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, arb får formen av en fyrkant. Du ska mäta längs fyrkantens raka sidor.

23.04.2019 - 14:30

country flag Maria Carlsson wrote:

Hej! Jag får inte ihop antal maskor med mönsterbeskrivningen. Det står att jag ska lägga upp 8-8-8-8 m dvs 32 maskor. diagram A1 börjar med två maskor, när jag sedan räknar alla ökningar, så blir bara ökningarna 120 m står att det ska bli 128m i slutet så vore mest logiskt att lägga upp 2-2-2-2 eller hur är det tänkt att jag ska göra, blir inte klok...

26.02.2019 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du ska börja med att lägga upp 8 maskor i din storlek, sedan ökas det enligt diagram A.1 som upprepas totalt 4 gånger på varvet.

27.02.2019 - 14:29

country flag Andrea Stolpe wrote:

Also die anderen Anleitung lassen sich alle problemlos ausdrucken. Ich hab mehrere Drucker, und auf jedem druckt es nur die erste Seite. In der Druckvorschau zeigt es auch nur die erste Seite an :(

19.07.2018 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Stolpe, können Sie uns bitte sagen, welchen Browser/Betriebsystem Sie benutzen?

19.07.2018 - 14:40