DROPS / 181 / 31

Magic Square by DROPS Design

Crochet jumper with crochet square and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-262
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
800-950-1050-1150 g colour 0517, medium grey

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 MM – or the size needed to get 13 double treble crochets on 10 cm in width. Diagram A.4 measures approx. 3.5 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of every row/round of double treble crochets, replace the first double treble crochet with 4 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch. NOTE: The first round in A.2A starts with 4 chain stitches.
At the beginning of every row/round with treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch.

2 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER:
Work 1 double treble crochet in the next stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double treble crochet in the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook.

3 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER:
Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on each of these double treble crochets, make a yarn over and pull it through all 4 loops on the hook.
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FRONT PIECE:
First work a crochet square in the same way in all sizes. Then continue working in the round, then back and forth over this square.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Start with hook size 6 mm and Nepal. Work A.1a. Then work in the round as follows: Work A.1b, A.1c a total of 3 times in width and A.1d. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been completed, there are 40 double crochets along each side and 4 corner-spaces. The square measures now approx. 38 x 38 cm. Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 double crochets, the next round starts from here.
Continue in the round as follows: Read CROCHET INFO! Work A.2a over the first 10 double crochets, A.2b over the first corner-space, work * A.2a over the next 40 double crochets (= 4 repeats), A.2b over the next corner-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.2a over the remaining 30 double crochets (= 3 repeats). When A.2 has been completed there are 72 double treble crochets along each side and 4 corner spaces.
Continue in the round as follows: Work A.3a over the first 26 double treble crochets (= 13 repeats), A.3b over the first corner-space, work * A.3a over the next 72 double treble crochets (= 36 repeats), A.3b over the next corner-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.3a over the remaining 46 double treble crochets (= 23 repeats). When A.3 has been completed, there are 80 double treble crochets along each side and 4 corner-spaces.
Crochet square measures approx. 66 x 66 cm. Now, size S/M is finished – cut and fasten the strand in this size. Sizes L/XL, XXL and XXXL continue as follows:

SIZE L/XL:
Now work back and forth outwards on each side of the jumper without increases. Start by the cross in one corner (the strand must be cut before continuing) – see sketch, and work as follows:
Work A.4d around the corner-space, work A.4b over the next 80 double treble crochets (= 40 repeats) and A.4a over the next corner-space. When A.4 has been completed in height, there are 85 double treble crochets on the last row. Cut and fasten the strand. Repeat on the opposite side of the piece – see cross in sketch.

SIZES XXL - XXXL:
Repeat the last 2 rounds as follows: Work A.3a as far as the first corner-space, work A.3b over the corner-space, work * A.3a as far as the next corner-space, work A3b over the corner-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.3a to end of round = 88 double treble crochets along each side and 4 corner-spaces. Cut the strand.
Now work back and forth outwards on each side of the jumper without increases. Start by the cross in the one corner – see sketch, and work as follows:
Work A.4d around the corner-space, work A.4b over the next 88 double treble crochets (= 44 repeats) and A.4a over the next corner-space. When A.4 has been completed in height there are 93 double treble crochets on the last row.
Now size XXL is finished but in size XXXL work 2 rows as follows: Work A.4b until there is 1 double treble crochet left, work A.4c over the last double treble crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand after the last row in both sizes. Repeat on the opposite side of the piece – see cross on sketch.

ALL SIZES - SHOULDER:
Now just work back and forth along the one side – towards the neck. The other 3 sides are now finished. Work as follows in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
Now work the shoulder as follows:
ROW 1 (= from the right side): Remember CROCHET INFORMATION! Work 3 double treble crochets around the corner-space from the crochet square, 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 30 double treble crochets, work 3 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – see description above = 34 double treble crochets, turn.
ROW 2 (= from the wrong side): Work 3 double treble crochets together, work 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 31 double treble crochets = 32 double treble crochets, turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder in the same way, but reversed. In other words, skip the middle 14 double treble crochets from the crochet square (= neck), and start by working 3 double treble crochets together.

SIZE L/XL:
ROW 1 (= from the wrong side): Remember CROCHET INFORMATION! Start in the one side from the wrong side and work 3 double treble crochets around each of the 2 rows from A.4, work 3 double treble crochets around the corner space from the crochet square, 1 double treble crochet in each of the 80 double treble crochets from the crochet square, 3 double treble crochets around the next corner-space from the crochet square, work 3 double treble crochets around each of the 2 last rows from A.4 = 98 double treble crochets, turn.
Now work the shoulder as follows:
ROW 2 (= from the right side): Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 39 double treble crochets, work 3 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – see description above = 40 double treble crochets.
ROW 3: Work 3 double treble crochets together, work 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 37 double treble crochets = 38 double treble crochets. Turn.
ROW 4: Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder, but reversed. In other words, skip the middle 14 double treble crochets from row 1 (= neck), and start by working 3 double treble crochets together.

SIZES XXL - XXXL:
Now work the shoulder as follows:
ROW 1 (= from the right side): Start in the one side from the right side and work 3 double treble crochets around each of the first 2-4 rows from A.4, work 3 double treble crochets around the corner space from the crochet square, 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 33-33 double treble crochets from the crochet square, work 3 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – see description above = 43-49 double treble crochets. Turn.
ROW 2 (= from the wrong side): Work 3 double treble crochets together, work 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 40-46 double treble crochets = 41-47 double treble crochets. Turn
ROW 3: Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder, but reversed. In other words, skip the middle 16-16 double treble crochets from the crochet square (= neck), and start by working 3 double trebles together.

BACK PIECE:
Work in the same way as for the front piece until you start on ALL SIZES -SHOULDER. Now work back and forth along the whole side up towards the neck and then work the shoulder. Work as follows in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
= 80 double treble crochets and 2 corner-spaces along the side.
ROW 1 (= from the right side): Work 2 double treble crochets around the corner-space, 1 double treble crochet in each of the 80 double treble crochets, work 3 double treble crochets around the corner space = 86 double treble crochets, turn.
ROW 2 (= from the wrong side): Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet. Turn.
ROW 3 (= shoulder): Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 31 double treble crochets, work 3 double treble crochets together = 32 double treble crochets.
Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder, but reversed. In other words, skip the middle 18 double treble crochets (= neck), and start by working 3 double treble crochets together.

SIZE L/XL:
= 80 double treble crochets and 2 corner-spaces along this side of the crochet square and 2 rows from A.4 on each side of the square.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Start in the one side from the wrong side and work 3 double treble crochets around each of the 2 first rows from A.4, work 3 double treble crochets around the corner-space from the crochet square, 1 double treble crochet in each of the 80 double treble crochets from the crochet square, 3 double treble crochets around the next corner-space from the crochet square, work 3 double treble crochets around each of the 2 last rows from A.4 = 98 double treble crochets, turn.
ROW 2 (= right side) Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet. Turn.
ROW 4 (= shoulder): Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 37 double treble crochets, work 3 double treble crochets together = 38 double treble crochets.
Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder, but reversed. In other words, skip the middle 18 double treble crochets (= neck), and start by working 3 double treble crochets together.

SIZES XXL - XXXL:
= 88-88 double treble crochets and 2 corner-spaces along this side of the crochet square and 2-4 rows from A.4 on each side of the square.
ROW 1 (= right side): Start in the one side from the right side and work 3 double treble crochets around each of the first 2-4 rows from A.4, work 3 double treble crochets around the corner-space from the crochet square, 1 double treble crochet in each of the 88-88 double treble crochets from the crochet square, work 3 double treble crochets around the corner-space from the crochet square and 3 double treble crochets around the next 2-4 rows from A.4 = 106-118 double treble crochets.
ROW 2 (= from the wrong side): Work 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet. Turn.
ROW 3 (= shoulder): Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 40-46 double treble crochets, work 3 double treble crochets together = 41-47 double treble crochets.
Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder, but reversed. In other words, skip the middle 20-20 double treble crochets (= neck), and start by working 3 double treble crochets together.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Measure approx. 20-22-24-25 cm down from the shoulders and sew the side seams – leave approx. 20 cm at the bottom for split.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round, starting mid under the armhole. Work 52-58-62-64 double treble crochets evenly around the armhole. Insert 1 marker mid under the sleeve and allow the marker to follow your work. Continue by working pattern in the round according to diagram A.4b and decrease on double treble crochet rounds as follows: Decrease by working 2 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER just after the marker – see description above and work 2 double treble crochets together just before the marker (= 2 double treble crochets decreased on the round). Repeat the decreases on every round with double treble crochets a total of 7-6-5-3 times = 38-46-52-58 double treble crochets. Continue the pattern until the sleeve measures approx. 27-23-23-20 cm – finish with a round of double treble crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECKLINE:
Work an edge along the neck opening.
Start on the shoulder and work as follows: * 1 double crochet around the outermost stitch, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1½ cm *, repeat from *-* along the whole neck and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

= 4 chain stitches, form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch – see point on circle, the round starts and ends here
= chain stitch
= slip stitch in/around stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= double crochet in stitch
= half treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space/chain-stitch ring
= treble crochet in stitch
= double treble crochet in stitch
= double treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= work in stitch arrow points to
= 4 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER AT THE BEGINNING OF THE ROUND: 4 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double treble crochet), work 2 double treble crochets in the next stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on both these double treble crochets, work 1 double treble crochet in next stitch and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook
= 4 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: work 1 double treble crochet, but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 2 double treble crochets in next stitch, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double treble crochets, work 1 double treble crochet in next stitch and pull last yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
= 3 chain stitches (= corner-space)
= 5 chain stitches
= work 1 half treble crochet around top of double treble crochet group from 3rd round
= 4 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER AROUND CHAIN-SPACE: work 4 double treble crochets around chain-space, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these double treble crochets and pull the last yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
= 4 TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER AROUND CHAIN-SPACE: work 4 triple treble crochets around chain-space, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these triple treble crochets and pull the last yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
= 4 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: work 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on all these double treble crochets and pull the last yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
= last round on previous diagram - Start on next round/row!
= just for sizes L/XL - XXL - XXXL, the cross is explained in text.



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 181-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Lorena Alvarez 08.12.2019 - 16:20:

Tienes envíos a Mexico.? Es Excelente tú página!! Saludos

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 00:13:

Hola Lorena. Bajo este link puedes encontrar las tiendas que tienen envíos a todo el mundo: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23

Graciela Larroque 22.08.2019 - 01:37:

El modelo y el patrón se ven muy bien.181-31

Graciela Larroque 22.08.2019 - 01:32:

Sigo sin entender el palito con un círculo arriba!

Teresa Rebelo 27.05.2019 - 02:05:

Peço desculpa mas acabei por não perceber quantas gr preciso para este trabalho em tamanho L com Nepal 8911 - azul mar Reference: NEPAL8911 e qual o total do valor com Portes para o Algarve Portugal

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 11:08:

Bom dia, Para o tamanho L, precisa de 1050 g. Quanto aos portes para o Algarve, deve contactar a sua loja DROPS. Bom croché!

Alexandra Villegas 24.04.2019 - 05:18:

Por favor me explicar con cuantos puntos comienzo el anillo, cuantos puntos altos? Gracias

DROPS Design 28.04.2019 kl. 20:56:

Hola Alexandra. El anillo se forma con 4 puntos de cadeneta. (ver las explicaciones del diagrama)

Catherine McLennan 14.11.2018 - 17:30:

Where are the measurements for each size please?

DROPS Design 14.11.2018 kl. 18:41:

Dear Catherine McLennan, you will find the schematic drawing for each garment below the patterns. It will have all the measurement for each size we have in this pattern. Happy crocheting!

Pia Juel 13.10.2018 - 09:22:

Jeg hækler str. xxl - jeg har hæklet A.4 hvor den sidste rækker er ene dobbelte stangmasker og er nået til skulder på side 3 Nu hækles der skulder: (afsnit 3) Jeg forstå ikke hvordan jeg skal hækle om hver af de 2-4 første rækker fra A.4? - menes der masker i stedt for rækker? og hvordan jeg skal hækle om hjørnebuen? - hvilken hjørnebue?

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 11:39:

Hei Pia. Du har heklet A.4 over høyre side, og så over venstre side som forklart i oppskriften – altså utover til høyre og venstre side av hekleruten. Nå skal skulderne hekles på toppen av firkanten. Altså over sidene på de omgangene du nettopp heklet i A.4 og over hekleruten i midten. Du begynner med å hekle 3 dobbelstaver om hver av de 2 omgangene i A.4 (de ytterste stavene), så hekler du om hjørnebuen fra hekleruten (som du heklet i A.3) og fortsette å hekle dobbelstaver over de neste 33 stavene. Så hekler du 3 dobbelstaver sammen (= halsåpning), før du snur og hekler tilbake. God fornøyelse.

Vivienneiwood 01.10.2018 - 22:32:

Hi I have crocheted the first size , the middle square measured the required 38cm. However when I completed A2 and A3 it measures 80cm not 66cm ?

DROPS Design 02.10.2018 kl. 09:40:

Dear Vivienneiwood, your double treble crochets worked in A.2 and A.3 might have been too "high" - make sure to try keeping the same tension in height as you got for A.1 - you can also show your work to your Store - even per Email-, they would have a better overview to help you. Happy crocheting!

Nadine 01.10.2018 - 17:59:

Hallo! Ich bin jetzt bei A1 mit der vierten Reihe fertig. Ist die 5. Reihe nur: 1 Luftmasche, 6 feste Maschen in die 6 festen Maschen der Vorteile? Wenn ja, was passiert dann mit den Halbstäbchen der Vorherige? Oder habe ich irgendwas falsch gelesen?

DROPS Design 02.10.2018 kl. 09:01:

Liebe Nadine, bei der 5. Reihe häkeln Sie 1 Luftmasche, 1 feste Masche in jede der 6 festen Maschen von der 4. Reihe, dann 1 Halbstäbchen oben um die Doppelstäbchen-Gruppe der 3. Runde. Die 4 Ecken werden dann bei der 6. Reihe gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Jolande 27.08.2018 - 10:34:

Ik ben begonnen met nld.6, toen met 7,8 en nu met nld.9! Maar nog steeds kom ik niet uit op 38 cm! Ik kom uit op ongeveer 33 cm. Toch haak ik niet te strak, hoe kan dit?! Kan ik met 33 cm toch het patroon vervolgen? Ik heb nl. geen zin om het nogmaals uit te halen!

DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 21:38:

Dag Jolande, Het is wel het handigst als de stekenverhouding klopt om het patroon te blijven volgen, maar ik kan me voorstellen dat je het niet weer uit wilt halen. Ik weet niet welke maat je breit, maar kijk even bij de grotere maten, daar wordt omschreven hoe je extra toeren haakt om het vierkant groter te maken en daarna hoe je alleen aan de zijkanten haakt. Misschien kun je het op die manier oplossen. Meet regelmatig je werk op om te kijken of de maten nog kloppen vergeleken met de tekening onderaan.

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