DROPS / 180 / 14

Dreamy Daffodil by DROPS Design

Knitted stole with lace pattern and rib. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

Tags: lace, scarves, shawls, stole,
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-810
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Width: approx. 35 cm. Length: approx. 156 cm.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250 g colour 2923, goldenrod

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3 MM for the rib – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
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STOLE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in two equal parts, which are sewn together in the middle.

Cast on 155 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Alpaca. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 1, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until there are 4 stitches left on the needle, finish with knit 1 and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib in this way.
When the piece measures 2 cm decrease all the purl 3 (seen from the right side) to purl 2 = 118 stitches. When the piece measures 3 cm, decrease every other purl 2 to purl 1 (NOTE: decrease in the first and last purl sections = 19 stitches decreased) = 99 stitches. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease the remaining purl 2 to purl 1 (= 18 stitches decreased) = 81 stitches. When the rib measures 5 cm – adjust so that the last row is worked from the wrong side, change to circular needle size 3.5 mm.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work PATTERN according to diagrams A.1a (= 7 stitches), A.1b (= 12 stitches) 5 times in width, A.1c (= 8 stitches), 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way until you have worked 4 complete repeats of A.1a to A.1c in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
The next row is worked from the right side as follows: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 5 stitches left on the needle, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased (this is done so that the pattern will fit the number of stitches)), work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch = 80 stitches. Continue the pattern until A.2 has been completed in height.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side, where you decrease 1 stitch at the end of the last row (this is done so that the pattern will fit the number of stitches) = 79 stitches.

Now work pattern from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.3a (= 3 stitches), A.3b (= 6 stitches) 11 times in width, A.3c (= 4 stitches), 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Repeat diagram A.3 in height until the piece measures 53 cm – adjust so that you finish after a completed repeat in height.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the needle and decrease at the same time 1 stitch (this is done so that the pattern fits the number of stitches), 3 edge stitches in garter stitch = 78 stitches. Continue the pattern until A.2 has been completed in height.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 3 edge stitches in each side where you decrease 1 stitch at the end of the last row (this is done so that the pattern fits the number of stitches) = 77 stitches.

Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.4 (= 10 stitches) 7 times in width, 1 stitch stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way until the you have worked 4 repeats in height.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the needle and at the same time increase 1 stitch on the first row (this is done so that the pattern fits the number of stitches), 3 edge stitches in garter stitch = 78 stitches. Continue the pattern until A.2 has been completed in height. Cast off.
To prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can use a larger needle or you can make a yarn over which is then cast off after every 4th stitch. The piece measures approx. 78 cm.

Work a second part in the same way.
Sew the two parts together inside the cast-off edge so that there are 4 ridges in the middle of the stole. Sew in each-and-every stitch and make sure the seam is not tight!

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= make a yarn over between 2 stitches. On the next row, knit the yarn overs so that there are holes
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
= knit 2 stitches together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Monika 11.10.2019 - 16:28:

Hallo nochmal. Ich bin bei den Diagrammen angekommen. Die erste Reihe geschafft. Nun muss ich die Rückreihe nur linke Maschen, außer den Umschlag, den muss ich rechts abstricken. Habe ich das richtig verstanden? Ein sehr schöner Schal!!! Außerdem find ich es toll, dass die Fragen immer sehr schnell beantwortet werden, danke.

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 08:55:

Liebe Monika, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen, dh bei A.1 a, b, c, stricken Sie alle Maschen von den Diagrammen links (siehe 1. Symbol = 1 Masche links in Rück-Reihen). Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Monika 11.10.2019 - 10:43:

Hallo. Der Maschenanschlag ist ohne Randmaschen? Muss ich die noch dazurechnen oder wird einfach ohne Randmaschen gestrickt? LG Monika

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 11:15:

Liebe Monika, schlagen Sie die 155 Maschen, dann stricken Sie eine Rück-Reihe links und bei der nächsten Hin-Reihe stricken Sie: 3 M krausrechts, Rippenmuseter und 3 M krausrechts, dh die 3 M krausrechts auf beiden Seiten stehen als Randmaschen, Sie brauchen keine extra Maschen anzuschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Amandine 12.02.2018 - 15:45:

Merci je viens de comprendre mon erreur la maille non tricote je l'a prenait par derrière et non devant au tout début pour cela que je n'arrivais pas ça me semblait dur, je ne l'a prenait pas dans le bon sens . Bonne journée à vous

Amandine 11.02.2018 - 19:45:

Glisser 1 maille à l'endroit, tricoter 1 maille endroit, passer la maille glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée A ce passage sachant qu'il y a un jeté avant est ce que quand je glisse ma maille avant de tricoter la suivante je refait passer le fil devant ou je laisse le fil comme il est?

DROPS Design 12.02.2018 kl. 09:18:

Bonjour Amandine, pour tricoter (1 jeté, glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée) dans le diagramme, passez votre fil devant l'ouvrage (pour former le jeté), glissez la m suivante à l'end, tricotez 1 m end (le fil est toujours devant l'ouvrage, en tricotant la m end, il va passer par-dessus l'aiguille et ainsi former le jeté, puis passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée, sur l'aiguille droite, vous avez 1 jeté, 1 m end (la m diminuée). Bon tricot!

Amandine 11.02.2018 - 19:23:

Bonjour quand j'arrive au motif a1. A la deuxième ligne que je tricote donc en envers ? Je me retrouve avec 75 mailles et non 81 comme au départ . Comment je fais pour continuer ? Est ce normal ?

DROPS Design 12.02.2018 kl. 09:15:

Bonjour Amandine, dans les diagrammes A.1a, A.1B et A.1c chaque diminution est compensée par 1 jeté, vous devez avoir toujours le même nombre de mailles dans chacun des diagrammes, soit 7 pour A.1a, 12 pour chaque A.1b et 8 pour A.1c, vous pouvez ajouter un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles et chaque répétition en largeur. Bon tricot!

Amandine 30.01.2018 - 17:40:

D'accord merci . Et donc mon premier rang après avoir monter mes 155mailles sera un rang tout à l'envers ?

DROPS Design 31.01.2018 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Amandine, tout à fait, on commence par 1 rang envers sur l'envers puis on continue en côtes (1er rang des côtes = sur l'endroit), on diminue ensuite dans les côtes et on commence ensuite le point ajouré. Bon tricot!

Amandine 29.01.2018 - 23:21:

Bonjour quand vous dîtes dans le premier paragraphe continuer en côte ainsi . Je reprends toujours comme au début un rang à l'envers puis le rang maille de bordure en mousse etc..? Ou bien je continue juste 3 mailles de bordure en mousse sur etc.. merci à vous

DROPS Design 30.01.2018 kl. 09:20:

Bonjour Amandine, on continue en côtes comme le rang qui vient d'être tricoté, c'est-à-dire en côtes 1 m end,3 m env (= sur l'endroit, sur l'envers on va tricoter 1 m env, 3 m end autrement dit, sur l'envers, tricotez les mailles comme elles se présentent) avec 3 m point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

Patricia 30.11.2017 - 21:43:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas diminuer 1 maille envers dans toutes les sections 3 mailles envers. Pourriez vous mettre une vidéo svp merci d'avance ?

DROPS Design 01.12.2017 kl. 09:09:

Bonjour Patricia, vous tricotez d'abord en côtes 1 m end, 3 m env (vu sur l'endroit). Pour diminuer 1 m env dans chacune des sections 3 m env, tricotez 1 rang ainsi: *1 m end, 2 m ens à l'env, 1 m env*, et répétez de *-* = il reste 2 m env dans chacune des sections 3 m env. Bon tricot!

Patricia 30.11.2017 - 21:41:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas diminuer 1 maille envers dans toutes les sections 3 mailles envers. Pourriez vous mettre une vidéo svp merci d'avance ?

Alice 26.10.2017 - 20:27:

Never mind my question about provisional cast on -- I see the pattern begins at the ends, not the back. Sorry!

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