Bright Smile by DROPS Design

Knitted dress in garter st with wave pattern, round yoke and buttons in the back, in DROPS Cotton Merino. Size children 3 - 14 years

DROPS design: Pattern no cm-008-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164
Materials: DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 17, vanilla
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm or 28 sts wave pattern in width = 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 3 mm – or size needed to get 21 x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces ACCESSORIES: White silk ribbon, approx. width 10 cm, length: approx. 2 m.
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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

STRIPES:
When working according to A.1 work stripes as follows: Switch colour every time A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically.
1st repetition of A.1: vanilla
2nd repetition of A.1: off white
Repeat stripes 3 more times vertically (A.1 is worked 8 times in total vertically).

DECREASE TIP:
Dec in the sides, beg 3 sts before marker:
K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES: 
Dec for buttonholes on right band (= mid back). 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge, 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 3/4: 18, 23, 28, 33, 38, 43 and 48 cm 
SIZE 5/6: 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 47 and 53 cm 
SIZE 7/8: 22, 28, 34, 40, 46, 52 and 58 cm 
SIZE 9/10: 20, 27, 34, 41, 48, 55 and 63 cm 
SIZE 11/12: 19, 26, 33, 40, 47, 54, 61 and 68 cm
SIZE 13/14: 18, 26, 34, 42, 50, 58, 65 and 73 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, button band is mid back.
Cast on 248-248-265-265-282-299 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with vanilla.
K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Then work as follows from RS: 5 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1 over the next 238-238-255-255-272-289 sts (= 14-14-15-15-16-17 repetitions of A.1), finish with 5 sts in garter st. Continue with A.1, garter st and STRIPES – see explanation above. 5 sts in garter st in each side are band and are worked in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked 8 times vertically, continue with vanilla and in stocking st (band in garter st), AT THE SAME TIME on first row with stocking st dec 74-66-75-67-76-85 sts evenly – NOTE! Make sure to dec over dec in A.1 and not over sts where there are YOs in A.1, and do not dec over bands = 174-182-190-198-206-214 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts in from each side (front piece = 82-86-90-94-98-102 sts). When piece measures 13 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-5-6-6½-7-7½ cm 6 more times = 146-154-162-170-178-186 sts. When piece measures 37-41-45-49-53-57 cm, work next row as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 sts in garter st. Work next row as follows from WS (P YOs to make holes): Work 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts as before (= right back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts as before (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work the last 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts (= left back piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-47-49-52-55-57 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with vanilla. Work A.2 (finish round with 0-1-1-0-1-1 st K when working YOs), on last round in diagram cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 38-41-43-46-49-51 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where sts for armholes were cast off = 210-224-236-250-264-276 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 9 markers in piece as follows (without working): 1st marker after 21-24-26-25-28-30 sts, then insert 8 marker in piece 21-22-23-25-26-27 sts apart (after last marker 21-24-26-25-28-30 sts remain). Work in garter st over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on left side of each marker (= 9 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4th row 11-12-13-14-15-16 more times, dec alternately on right and left side of markers (= 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total) = 102-107-110-115-120-123 sts. After all dec are done work as follows - from RS: 5 sts in garter st, A.2, finish with 0-1-0-1-0-1 st K and 5 sts in garter st. On 8th round in A.2 (see arrow in diagram), dec 18 sts evenly = 84-89-92-97-102-105 sts. Finish A.2. Piece measures approx. 50-55-60-65-70-75 cm up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band. Thread silk ribbon up and down through the eyelet holes before yoke. Button band at the back is only for decoration but if the dress is unbuttoned the silk ribbon must be cut in two and fastened on each side of band.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= dec row


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 28-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Tracie 17.02.2020 - 13:14:

Sorry me again looking at my knitting I only have 3 stitches on each end of A1 I didn't have any problems with pattern so I'm sure I've knitted the pattern correctly is there a way I could send a photo

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 13:25:

Dear Tracie, when you have to decrease 75 sts evenly you should work all stitches in stocking stitch, and you are supposed to have 255 sts (3rd size) (=17 sts in each A.1 worked previously), then decrease 75 sts evenly - try to decrease over the K2 tog from the previous A.1 rather than over the yarn overs made - or simply read here and displace the K2tog that should be worked over yarn overs so that they are worked over the decreases from the previous A.1. Happy knitting!

Tracie 17.02.2020 - 11:55:

Thank you for the speedy reply, I'm afraid I'm sill confused as I only have 6 stitches I can use for decreasing in one repeat how can I reduce 5

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 12:57:

Dear Tracie there are 6 stitches at the end of A.1 + 6 sts at the beg of next A.1 = 12 stitches - you will have to decrease over these 12 stitches (where you worked K2 tog x 6). Happy knitting!

Tracie 16.02.2020 - 20:49:

Hi im having trouble with the first decrease, it says i have to reduce 75 sts evenly on first row after A1 is complete with out dec over the YO and no matter how i try and work it out i can not get rid of 75 STS in one row. how is it done?

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 09:45:

Dear Tracie, decrease 5 stitches over the decreases from A.1 (5 dec over 15 repeats of A.1 = 75 sts decreased on row). Happy knitting!

Ingrid 11.06.2019 - 06:00:

Alt for lite garn til str 13-14 år!! Minst ett nøste for lite, kanskje to. Enda ikke ferdig med fellingene på overdelen, og garnet er nesten brukt opp, da har jeg brukt mønsterfargen på ermkantene og hullraden i livet også.

Corinn 17.04.2019 - 03:04:

How do you combine the sleeve edge at the Yoke?

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 10:58:

Dear Corinn, both sleeve edges are worked separately then joined together with the stitches from body as shown in the video below. Happy knitting!

Johanneke 18.02.2019 - 10:39:

Er staat bij de benodigde artikelen, lint van 10 cm breed. Denk dat dit mm moet zijn.

Pia 09.07.2018 - 18:52:

Er det noe som ikke stemmer her? «Når arb måler 13 cm felles det 1 m i hver side av merketrådene (= 4 m felt) – LES FELLETIPS. Gjenta fellingene på hver 4.-5.-6.-6½.-7.-7½.cm 6 ganger til» Etter fellingene vil arbeidet da måle 37-43-49-52-55-58cm etter mine beregninger, men hullraden skal strikkes etter 37-41-45-49-53-57cm? På bildet ser det ut som det felles mye oftere, og at man strikker et stykke uten felling før hullraden strikkes.

DROPS Design 10.07.2018 kl. 09:48:

Hej Pia, det kan være at det er en anden størrelse på billedet, men opskriften er skrevet så fellingerne skal være jævnt fordelt. Hvis du følger opskriften så får du målene som står i måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

Kristine 05.07.2018 - 15:06:

Det mangler bilde av knappestolpen bak.

Jacqui 04.07.2018 - 08:06:

I am having difficulty understanding, when the pattern reads: Work next row as follows from WS (P YOs to make holes): Work 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts as before (= right back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts as before (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work the last 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts (= left back piece) Do I perl all stiches and then knit 36? Or do I cast off on the WS

DROPS Design 04.07.2018 kl. 10:01:

Dear Jacqui, that's right you are working this row from WS so that you will purl all sts - but still work the 5 sts in each side as before, ie in garter st. Happy knitting!

Kathryn Briggs 08.06.2018 - 01:47:

Size 9/10 The first button hole is 20 cm down the back?

DROPS Design 08.06.2018 kl. 08:29:

Dear Mrs Briggs, first buttonhole will be knitted when piece measures 20 cm from bottom edge. Happy knitting!

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