DROPS Design: Pattern no. w-644
Yarn group C or A + A
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
600-650-700-750-850-900 g colour 102, spray blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO. 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. 

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. 

See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. 

Decrease 2 stitches in each transition from the body to the sleeves. 
Decrease as follows from the right side: Begin 3 stitches before the marker thread:
Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slip stitch over the knitted stitch.

If the knitting tension is not right in height and the work is too tight, the raglan decreases will be too short and the armhole too small. This can be adjusted by working 1 extra row without decreases, evenly spaced between decreases. 

Increase as follows mid underarm – start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

The piece is worked back and forth on the circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 183-195-211-227-247-267 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 5 mm and Paris. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above, then work as follows - from the right side:
A.1 (5 stitches = band), purl 1, A.2 (= 19 stitches), purl 1, knit 22-25-29-33-38-43, insert 1 marker thread here (= the side), knit 14-17-21-25-30-35, purl 1, A.2 across the next 57 stitches (= 3 repeats in width), purl 1, knit 14-17-21-25-30-35, insert 1 marker thread here (= the side), knit 22-25-29-33-38-43, purl 1, A.2, purl 1, A.1 (5 stitches = band). Continue this pattern upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 8 cm decrease 1 stitch in the side of each front piece as follows: Knit 2 together before the first marker thread and knit 2 together after the second marker thread. Decrease in this way every 10 cm in total 3 times. When A.2 has been completed continue with A.3 = 13 stitches over each A.2, the other stitches continued as before. After all the decreases in the sides and in A.2 there are 147-159-175-191-211-231 stitches on the needle. When the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm cast off 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches in each side (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches on each side of the marker threads). There are now 63-69-75-83-91-99 stitches on the back piece and 36-39-42-46-50-54 stitches on each front piece. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves. 

The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, change to a short circular needle when there are enough stitches. 
Cast on 38-38-40-42-44-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm and Paris. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above, then work stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). When the piece measures 6-6-6-6-4-6 cm increase 2 stitches mid undersleeve – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 3-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm in total 8-12-14-15-15-16 times = 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches. When the piece measures 33-31-31-29-28-26 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) cast off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve = 48-56-60-64-64-66 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where the stitches have been cast off for the armholes = 231-259-279-303-319-339 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves. Continue with the pattern and stocking stitch as before and decrease to RAGLAN – see description above. Decreases are different on the body and sleeves. Decrease as follows:

Decrease every 4th row 4-2-2-2-4-5 times, then every 2nd row 13-19-21-23-21-21 times = in total 17-21-23-25-25-26 times.

Decrease every 4th row 8-9-9-8-8-7 times, then every 2nd row 5-5-7-11-13-17 times = in total 13-14-16-19-21-24 times. 

After all the decreases, there are 111-119-123-127-135-139 stitches on the needle. Work 2 ridges across all stitches, on the first row, decrease 12-16-16-16-18-20 stitches evenly along the row = 99-103-107-111-117-119 stitches. Cast off.

Sew the openings mid underarm. Place 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttons evenly along the left band and sew them on. The buttons are buttoned through the holes in the right band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.06.2019
Correction - diagram A.1: corrected placement of yarn overs on row 25, 45 and 61 in A.1


symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, lift the slipped stitch over the stitches that were knitted together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 177-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Lotta wrote:

Hej! Jag stickar den här koftan i 2 trådar alpacka. Inser att jag endast stickat ett rätt varv i nederkant och nu undrar jag om det går att blocka kanten så den inte rullar sig? Som det är nu är stora delar av arbetet rullat .tack på förhand!

04.01.2021 - 11:30:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lotta. Du kan fint prøve å blokke kanten eller dampe den forsiktig slik at den ikke ruller seg. mvh DROPS design

13.01.2021 kl. 13:10:

country flag Elaine Weber Nelson wrote:

Your directions say: "When the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' decrease 1 stitch in the side of each front piece as follows: Knit 2 together before the first marker thread and knit 2 together after the second marker thread. Decrease in this way 3 times." The chart also shows decreases - but not in the same places as your written directions? About my question on the button bands earlier-then there are lace holes in the same places on both sides - where should the actual buttons go?

11.02.2019 - 20:56:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nelson, chart shows the final shape of jacket, ie larger at the bottom than around bust, the decreases have to be worked as explained in the pattern. The buttons will be sewn on the left front piece facing the holes A.1 (you can sew them on the stitches between holes. Happy knitting!

12.02.2019 kl. 09:17:

country flag Elaine wrote:

It doesn’t seem that you have included directions to make the buttonholes on one side of the button band. Am I misreading the pattern somehow?

31.01.2019 - 03:16:

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Elaine, A.1 is worked over the bands and includes a lace pattern which gives holes to button the buttons through. Happy knitting!

31.01.2019 kl. 08:05:

country flag NIEVES GONZALEZ MARTINEZ wrote:

En el esquema A2 se ven las disminuciones al comienzo del dibujo pero al ver la chaqueta se observa que todo el calado tiene el mismo ancho.¿Debo entender que las disminuciones son en la parte lisa, antes y después de las marcas del delantero?

29.05.2018 - 07:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Nieves. Sí, hay un cambio en el diagrama en la parte de los calados ( disminución de 19 a 13 puntos) para darle forma de A a la chaqueta. No se puede apreciar bien en la foto debido a que la parte del pecho queda más estirada que la parte inferior de la chaqueta.

03.06.2018 kl. 11:00:

Anki wrote:

Hej. Jag undrar vad som är fel.Var ska jag börja med första aviga på rad 26?,ovanpå rätmaska på föregående varv? För sen får jag inte rad 27 att stämma,blir endast 5 räta i mitten istället för 7...

22.08.2017 - 19:49:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anki, de aviga m skall fortsätta ligga ovanpå varan, det är m mellan de aviga som du minskar enligt diagrammet. Lycka till

05.09.2017 kl. 15:50:

country flag Silvia wrote:

Obwohl meine Maschenprobe für glatt rechts genau stimmt, wird das Strickstück durch das Muster viel zu breit. Was kann ich tun?

19.08.2017 - 06:58:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Silvia, es kann sein, daß Ihre Umschläge zu "groß" sind - am besten Ihr Strickstück Ihrem Laden bringen/zeigen, so können Sie am besten Hilfe bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2017 kl. 12:12:

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buongiorno sto eseguendo il Raglan nella Tg S.Ma è giusto che durante le diminuzioni si tolgono delle maglie anche alle m. traforate? Se così fosse come si procede? Grazie mille

17.07.2017 - 14:23:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta. Se non abbiamo sbagliato, sul dietro per la taglia S, le diminuzioni comprendono anche 1 maglia del diagramma. Chiederemo una verifica alla casa madre. Buon lavoro!

18.07.2017 kl. 14:50:

country flag Martina wrote:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort! Ich habe jetzt nochmal alles kontrolliert, ich komme auch auf die Maschenanzahl, die sie angeben. Aber was mich irritiert hat: beim Rückenteil bleiben 37 M, es wird aber 3x das Muster A3 beim Rückenteil gestrickt, und das sind 3x13=39 M. Bei der letzten Abnahmereihe wird also auf jeder Seite vom Rückenteil die li M am Musterrand abgenommen. Mir ist jetzt wieder alles klar!

23.06.2017 - 23:27:

country flag Martina wrote:

Ach ja, das habe ich vergessen, ich stricke die Weste in Größe S.

22.06.2017 - 09:16:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, So wird es abgenommen: Rückenteil= 63 M - (8+5 x 2 M) = 37 M, Vorderteil (x2): 36 - (8+5) = 23 M, Ärmel (x2): 48 M - (4+13 x2) = 14 M. Nach alle Raglanabnahmen haben Sie: 23 + 14 + 37 + 14 + 23 = 111 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.06.2017 kl. 13:05:

country flag Martina wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team! Ich komme mit den Raglanabnahmen nicht zurecht. Ich muss die Abnahmen noch 3x arbeiten, dabei komme ich allerdings am Rumpfteil am Rücken schon ins Muster! Also ich habe nach bzw. vor der Markierung nicht mehr genug rechte Maschen, um so wie im Abnahmetipp beschrieben, abzunehmen. Was mache ich? Wo liegt mein Fehler? Liebe Grüße, Martina

21.06.2017 - 23:35:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, können Sie bitte Ihre Größe sagen, damit wir noch prüfen könenn?

22.06.2017 kl. 08:36:

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 177-21

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.