DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sticks and Stones

Knitted jumper with stripes and raglan, worked top down in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size children 3 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 27-18
DROPS design: Pattern no me-015-bn
Yarn group B
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 07, light brown
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 18, green
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 09, dark brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm (40 and 60 cm) - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm (40 and 60 cm) - for rib.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DIAGRAM:
See diagram A.1-A.3.

STRIPES:
Work: 21-21-26-20-20-24 rounds with dark brown (including rib and short rows on neck) , 6-7-8-10-11-12 rounds with light brown and 6-7-8-10-11-12 round with dark brown, diagram A.3, diagram A.2 (work 6-7-8-10-11-12 rounds of each stripe), diagram A.1. Then work with dark brown until finished measurements. IE: In diagram A.1 and A.3 each row of diagram = 1 round. In diagram A.2 work 6-7-8-10-11-12 rounds (= approx. 2-2.5-3-3.5-4-4 cm of each stripe (Stripes in A.2 vary in the different sizes according to length of garment).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog and K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
--------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, from top down in STRIPES - see explanation above.

YOKE:
Cast on 92-92-96-96-96-96 sts on a short circular needle size 3 mm with dark brown, insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). K 1 round. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm.
Then work an elevation in back of neck as follows (continue in rib): Work 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and work 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48-48-64-64-64-64 sts have been worked, turn and work 1 round until marker mid back again.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking st while at the same time inc 10 sts evenly = 102-102-106-106-106-106 sts.

Now insert 4 new markers (for raglan) as follows: Work 17-17-18-18-18-18 sts from marker mid back, insert 1st marker here (at the same time remove marker mid back), work 17 sts more (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, work 34-34-36-36-36-36 sts (= front piece) and insert 3rd marker, work 17 sts (= sleeve), insert 4th marker and work until 1st marker again (there are 34-34-36-36-36-36 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER STRIPES! Then on 1st round, inc 1 st on each side of the 4 markers for raglan (= 8 inc) - SEE INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every round 1-3-3-5-5-7 times (= 2-4-4-6-6-8 times in total) and then every other round 13-13-15-15-17-17 times = 222-238-258-274-290-306 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: Slip the 47-51-55-59-63-67 sts between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder, cast on 8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 3rd marker, slip the 47-51-55-59-63-67 sts between 3rd and 4th marker on a stitch holder, cast on 8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 1st marker again = 144-152-164-172-180-188 sts on needle.

BODY:
Continue with STRIPES in stocking st. Work until piece measures 41-45-50-55-59-64 cm in total from shoulder.
Work first 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME inc 28-32-32-36-36-40 sts evenly = 172-184-196-208-216-228 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P. Piece measures in total approx. 42-46-51-56-60-65 cm from neck (= 46-50-55-60-64-69 cm in total from shoulder and down).

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm and cast in addition on 8 new sts under sleeve = 55-59-63-67-71-75 sts. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve (i.e. in the middle of the 8 new sts). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with STRIPES - AT THE SAME TIME when 2.5 cm have been worked, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2.5 cm 8-10-11-13-14-15 more times (= 9-11-12-14-15-16 times in total) = 37-37-39-39-41-43 sts. Continue to work until sleeve measures 27-30-34-38-41-45 cm. Work 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME inc 7-7-9-9-7-9 sts evenly = 44-44-48-48-48-52 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. Then LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.06.2021
Correction in diagram A.3.

Diagram

symbols = light brown
symbols = dark brown
symbols = green
symbols = off white
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Sticks and Stones

Anagocha, Spain

Sticks and Stones

Annette, Germany

Sticks and Stones pullover

natafor, Finland

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 27-18

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Brigitte Beier wrote:

Ich stricke diesen Pullover iin Gr. 158/164. Warum unten am Bund 40 Maschen zunehmen ? Ist das nicht etwas zuviel ? ich habe eine Gesamtlänge von 54 Rumpflänge + Bund - also kürzer als in der Anltg. angegeben (69 cm finde ich viel zu lang !!) Komme dann wohl auf eine Gesamtlänge incl. Bund von ca. 60 cm. Würden Sie auch hierbei 40 Maschen zunehmen ? Danke und freundliche Grüße Brigitte Beier

06.02.2023 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Beier, die Zunahmen vor dem Bund sind aber für die Breite: man braucht mehr Maschen für die gleiche Breite im Rippenmuster 2 rechts, 2 links mit kleineren Nadeln als glatt rechts mit grösseren Nadeln,deshalb wird es zugenommen, es ändert die Länge nicht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.02.2023 - 10:03

country flag Brigitte Beier wrote:

Ich möchte diesen Pullover mit der Merino Cotton stricken, aber ohne hohen Halsbund. Wie stricke ich das Bündchen dann von oben nach unten ? Gibt es hier eine Anleitung möchte ansonsten alles so stricken wie in dieser Anleitung angegeben, nur nicht so einen hohen Halsbund.

30.01.2023 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Beier, benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um die neue Garnmebe für Cotton Merino kalkulieren zu lassen - dann stricken Sie wie in der Anleitung - der Pullover wird von oben nach unten gestrickt, Halskante können Sie anpassen, wie Sie es am besten möchten - wenn Sie keine Erhöhung/verkürzten Reihen möchten, dann diese Reihe einfach nicht stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.01.2023 - 11:57

country flag Helen Singleton wrote:

This is my go to pattern for when I am knitting jumpers for charity. It is great to use left over yarn from my stash in the stripe pattern, or sometimes I change it depending on the yarn I have available. It is so easy to knit and |I am able to watch my favourite tv programmes or read a good book whilst I am doing it.

17.01.2023 - 21:20

country flag Gaetane Simard wrote:

Cela veux dire 7+17 fois =24 fois au deux rangs on tient pas conte de 7foix un rang merci

08.07.2022 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Simard, pas exactement, vous tricoterez 7 tours (en augmentant tous les tours) puis 34 tours (en augmentant tous les 2 tours) soit 41 tours au total. Bon tricot!

11.07.2022 - 08:56

country flag Gaetane Simard wrote:

On me dit de faire une augmentation dans le raglan 7x tous les tours et 17 fois au deux tours à chaque tour comment je fait merci

08.07.2022 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Simard, augmentez ainsi: 7 fois tous les tours puis 17 fois tous les 2 tours (= 1 tour sans augmentations, 1 tour avec augmentations, répétez ces 2 tours 17 fois au total) - en taille 13/14 ans. Bon tricot!

08.07.2022 - 16:31

country flag Marianne Hansen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke finde ændringen af diagram 3. jeg har svært ved at følge diagrammerne. jeg synes ikke de passer med blusen. v h marianne 🙂

02.06.2022 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, Du skal først følge teksten hvor det står STRIBER øverst i opskriften, når det står diag A.3 starter du nederst i A.3 og følger diagrammet opad, så A.2. Det er de rettede diagrammer som ligger i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

02.06.2022 - 14:38

country flag Bernadette Alain wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour ce modèle je réalise pour mes ptits loulous facile à faire et bien expliquer merci beaucoup et félicitations à toute votre équipe

10.07.2021 - 17:58

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Buonasera, sono arrivata ai 50 cm di lunghezza, dove dite di aumentare 32 maglie (taglia 7/8) arrivando ad ottenere 196 maglie, ma in questo modo il maglione non diventa troppo largo alla base? E' giusta la spiegazione? Scusate, ma ho qualche dubbio, visto che gli schemi sono sbagliati...Vi ringrazio se vorrete rispondermi. Buona serata!

10.06.2021 - 16:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lelletta, al momento non ci sono correzioni in merito, in ogni caso è l'ultima parte del maglione, può provarlo durante la lavorazione per controllare se il numero di maglie da aumentare le risulta eccessivo. Buon lavoro!

11.06.2021 - 08:00

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Buonasera, il diagramma A3 non corrisponde alle righe della foto! Vi è stato segnalato anche dalla signora Liesbeth a settembre del 2020....

08.06.2021 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lelletta, trasmetteremo la sua segnalazione al settore design per una verifica. Se ci saranno correzioni le potrà trovare direttamente online nei prossimi giorni. Buon lavoro!

11.06.2021 - 07:55

country flag Carina wrote:

Hur mycket garn går det om man stickar det i en färg? Mvh Carina

27.05.2021 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carina, du kan säkert dra bort den naturfärgade i den storleken du väljer :)

28.05.2021 - 13:44