Water Stripes by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or Sky. Size children 3-14 years

DROPS design: Pattern no me-016-bn
Yarn group B
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 01, off white
150-150-150-200-200-200g colour no 19, light grey blue

Or use:
DROPS SKY fra Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150-200-200-250g f.nr 01, white
100-100-100-150-150-150g f.nr 13, light jeans blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIB: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

STRIPES: * Work 1-1-2-2-2-2 rounds with off white, switch to light grey blue and work 3-3-5-5-5-5 rounds *, repeat from *-* 7-8-7-7-7-7 times = 8-9-8-8-8-8 grey blue stripes in total.

Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K tog the next 2 sts.

Worked in the round, top down.

Cast on 92-92-96-96-96-100 sts on a small circular needle size 3.5 mm with light grey blue. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). K 1 round and continue to work RIB = K 2/P 2 for 6-6-8-8-11-14 rounds, AT THE SAME as working rib work stripes as follows: Light grey blue for 1-1-2-2-3-3 rounds, switch to off white for 2-2-3-3-4-5 rounds, switch to light grey blue for 3-3-3-3-4-6 rounds. Then work an elevation in back of neck as follows (continue in rib with light grey blue): Work 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and work 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48-48-64-64-64-64 sts have been worked, turn and work 1 round until marker mid back again.

Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking st with off white while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10-10-10-10-10-8 sts evenly = 102-102-106-106-106-108 sts.
Insert 4 markers in the piece for raglan as follows: Work 17-17-18-18-18-18 sts from marker mid back, insert 1st marker here (at the same time remove marker mid back), work 17 sts more (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, work 34-34-36-36-36-37 sts (= front piece) and insert 3rd marker, work 17 sts (= sleeve), insert 4th marker and work until 1st marker again (there are 34-34-36-36-36-37 sts between markers on back piece).
Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements.
Work stripes - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, inc 1 st on each side of the 4 markers for raglan (= 8 inc) - SEE INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every round 4-6-7-7-9-10 more times (5-7-8-8-10-11 times in total). Then on every other round 7-6-7-10-10-11 times and finally every 3rd round 3-4-4-3-3-3 times = 222-238-258-274-290-308 sts. Work next round as follows: Slip the 47-51-55-59-63-67 sts between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder, cast on 8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 3rd marker, slip the 47-51-55-59-63-67 sts between 3rd and 4th marker on a stitch holder, cast on 8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 1st marker again = 144-152-164-172-180-190 sts on needle.

Continue with stripes and stocking st. When stripes are done, continue with off white. Work until piece measures 36-40-44-46-50-54 cm from shoulder. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round inc 44-44-48-52-52-58 sts evenly = 188-196-212-224-232-248 sts. Work 5-5-5-8-8-8 rounds, switch to light grey blue and continue with 6-6-6-9-9-9 rounds = approx. 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm rib. LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P. Piece measures approx. 40-44-48-52-56-60 cm from shoulder.

Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm and cast in addition on 8 new sts under sleeve = 55-59-63-67-71-75 sts. Continue with stripes and stocking st. When stripes are done, continue with off white. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve (i.e. in the middle of the 8 new sts). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When 3 cm has been worked, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 9-11-12-14-14-15 times = 37-37-39-39-43-45 sts. Continue to work until sleeve measures 28-31-35-37-40-44 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round inc 11-11-13-13-13-11 sts evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 sts. Work 5-5-5-8-8-8 rounds, switch to light grey blue and continue with 6-6-6-9-9-9 rounds = approx. 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm rib. Sleeve measures approx. 32-35-39-43-46-50 cm in total. Then LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 27-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Buxsen 30.11.2019 - 22:00:

Liebes Drops Team! Wenn ich die Raglan Zunahmen stricke, muss ich dann nach jeder Zunahme Runde eine Runde ohne Zunahme stricken? Oder wird tatsächlich in JEDER Runde zugenommen? Das kommt mir irgendwie komisch vor. Liebe Grüße, Jenny

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 09:58:

Liebe Frau Buxsen, die Raglanzunahmen werden zuerst in jeder Runde 5-7-8-8-10-11 x insgesamt, dann in jeder 2. Runde 7-6-7-10-10-11 x und schliesslich in jeder 3. Runde 3-4-4-3-3-3 x gearbeitet. Also am Anfang nehmen Sie in jeder Runde zu 5 bis 11 x je nach der Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Birgitta 11.11.2019 - 19:55:

Jag har stickat minsta storleken 3/4 år och det gick åt 50 gr mindre av vardera färgen. Bra om det framgår av mönstret så man inte köper onödigt mycket garn.

Pia Askebjerg Mærsk 04.11.2019 - 07:18:

Hej Jeg kan se, der ikke er svaret på et spørgsmål om, hvorfor man skal tage tage eks. 44 masker ud før ribkanten forneden. Bliver kanten ikke for løs?? det virker ikke ret logisk. På forhånd tak for hjælpen.

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 09:01:

Hej Pia, ribstrik bliver elastisk og trækker sig sammen og da du også skifter til mindre pinde, skal der tages ud så ribben ikke trækker hele arbejdet for meget sammen. God fornøjelse!

Irene Huus Nielsen 11.09.2019 - 08:51:

Jeg er ved at strikke denne trøje og undrer mig over at der skal laves udtagning, når den nederste ribkant skal strikkes. Bliver den så ikke for løs? Mvh. Irene

Christina Christensen 16.09.2018 - 07:56:

Der står, at jeg ved slutningen af bærestykke skal slå 8 masker (str 98-104) op over tråden. Jeg ved ikke hvad det betyder. Jeg troede de skulle på tråden, men når jeg skal strikke ærme, kan jeg se, at jeg skal slå 8 nye masker op.

Valerie 18.06.2018 - 11:37:

Hi i am doing size 7/8 and no stripes. How many rows is it from the beginning of the yoke to the end of the raglan increase? Thanks

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 13:57:

Dear Valerie, in size 7/8 stripes are: *2 rounds off white, 5 rounds blue*, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times = 7 rounds x 7 = 49 rounds in total. Happy knitting!

Jess 09.05.2018 - 11:29:

I've just finished the neck, but I'm afraid I don't understand the part "work 1 round until marker mid back again." Am I meant to work until I get to the stitch marker? Or am I meant to work 48 stitches past the marker? Thanks :-)

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 13:05:

Dear Jess, next to last row of the elevation will be worked from WS over 48 sts then turn and work to marker on mid back (= where you start the short rows working 8 sts past marker). Happy knitting!

Linnea Cedergren 20.02.2018 - 22:34:

Mängden garn som behövs kan inte stämma. Andra mönster i garngrupp B (tex Clever Clark) har en garnåtgång på totalt 250 g i strl 98/104. Enligt detta mönster behövs 400 g i 98/104, vilket dessutom är samma mängd som till strl 7/8 år. Uppdatera med rätt mängd garn!

Dufour Arlette 16.01.2017 - 08:47:

Je voudrais savoir pourquoi il faut augmenter des mailles a la fin .Quand on change d'aiguilles habituellement on débute aig n°3,5 puis aig n°4 et la on augmente je comprend pas . Si on fait comme il et expliquer le pull vas en s'elargisant ?

DROPS Design 16.01.2017 kl. 10:44:

Bonjour Mme Durfour, on augmente au 1er rang des côtes pour que les côtes ne resserrent pas trop l'ouvrage en bas. Bon tricot!

Gracia 10.11.2016 - 04:07:

Las tallas que vienen en el patron No. me-016-bn no entiendo la talla en cm a que se refiere , no siento logico que un niño de 3/4 años tenga talla de 98-104 cm de contorno pecho, a que se refiere esa medida ?? gracias por su respuesta

DROPS Design 10.11.2016 kl. 08:49:

Hola Gracia. Las tallas de niños en las medidas internacionales vienen indicadas por la altura del niño. La altura de niño de 3 años es de aprox 98 cm, de 4 años - aprox 104 cm, de 5 años - 110 cm.

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