DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Vadelma

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat, neck warmer and gloves with cables in "BabyMerino".

DROPS 172-44
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-030
Yarn group A
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HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes in colour no 41, plum

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Circumference at the top: approx. 44-52 cm
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes in colour no 34, heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

GLOVES:
Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes in colour no 41, plum

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
200-250 g Baby Merino in desired colour.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Accessories Hats Neck Warmers Gloves & Mittens Beanies Gloves cable top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, work top down and switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 14-16 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with plum and work as follows:
ROUND 1: K and inc 14-16 sts by making 1 YO after every st = 28-32 sts.
ROUND 2: K all sts (always work YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 3: K and inc 14-17 sts evenly (inc with YOs) = 42-49 sts.
ROUND 4: * K 2, P 1, K 2, P 1-2 *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total (work YOs twisted to avoid holes).
Then work pattern in the round as follows: * A.1 (= 6 sts), P 0-1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 7 repetitions with A.1 and P 0-1 between every repetition). When A.1 has been worked, there are 182-189 sts on needle. Continue in the round according to diagram A.2 the same way with P 0-1 between every repetition. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, hat measures approx. 20 cm from the top. Now dec 1 st in every P section (dec 1 st by working the last two sts in every P section P tog), work in addition the 4 K sts in the middle cable in every repetition twisted tog 2 by 2 = 140-147 sts remain on needle. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and rib in the round with K over K and P over P until hat measures approx. 23-24 cm from the top. Then loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Baste a strand up and down through sts at the top of hat, tighten tog and fasten.

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NECK WARMER:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 to A.5.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round P YO twisted to avoid holes - NOTE: To make the inc less visible inc at the end of every P section.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.
Cast on 170-204 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with heather. K 1 round. Then work according to diagram A.3 (= 5-6 repetitions of 34 sts). When A.3 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.4. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.4 has been worked, switch back to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in the round according to diagram A.5, when A.5 has been worked 1 time in height continue with K over K and P over P. When piece measures 2 cm from marker, inc 1 st in every P-section - READ INCREASE TIP = 210-252 sts. Inc like this every 4th round a total of 4 times = 330-396 sts. When rib measures 6-7 cm from marker, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Neck warmer measures approx. 16-17 cm from top and down.

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GLOVES:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.6 to A.8.

INCREASE TIP (applies to thumb gusset):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.
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LEFT GLOVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with plum. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: Work A.6A 2 times in total (= 2 repetitions of 28 sts). Continue rib like this. When piece measures 10 cm, work A.6B over the first 28 sts and A.6A over the last 28 sts. When A.6B has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 60 sts on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work next round as follows: Work A.7A over the first 32 sts (= on top of hand), P 1, 26 sts in stocking st and P 1 (= 28 sts inside hand). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Insert 1 marker in the next to last st in stocking st inside hand (i.e. in third last st on round) = thumb st. When piece measures 1.5 cm from rib beg inc for thumb gusset and inc as follows: Inc 1 st in each side of st with marker - READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 3rd round 7 times in total = 15 sts thumb gusset (there will be 2 sts more between YO on every inc). When piece measures 7 cm, slip the 15 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder. On next round, cast on 1 new st behind thumb sts = 60 sts on needle. Continue with pattern and stocking st as before until A.7A has been worked - piece measures approx. 8 cm. Then work A.7B over the 32 sts on top of hand, continue the remaining 28 sts inside hand as before.
When piece measures 9 cm, slip the first 25 sts on 1 stitch holder (= on top of hand), keep the next 15 sts on needle and slip the remaining 20 sts on 1 stitch holder (= inside the hand).

PINKIE:
= 15 sts, in addition cast on 1 new st towards the hand = 16 sts. Work in the round as follows: Work P over P and K over K over the first 8 sts, work in stocking st over the next 6 sts and P the last 2 sts. When finger measures 6 cm, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 8 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

HAND:
Slip sts from stitch holders back on the needles, pick in addition up 2 sts towards the little finger = 47 sts. Work K over K and P over P for 2 rounds - NOTE: P the one new st which is closest to top of hand and K the second new st which is closest inside of hand. Keep the 2 sts that were picked up towards the little finger + 9 sts on top of hand and 5 sts inside the hand on the needle. Slip the remaining 31 sts back on the stitch holders.

RING FINGER:
= 16 sts, in addition cast on 2 new sts towards stitch holders = 18 sts. Work in the round with P over P and K over K over the 9 sts on top of hand, P 1 towards pinkie on top of hand and work the remaining 8 sts in stocking st. When finger measures 7.5 cm, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 9 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

MIDDLE FINGER:
Slip 8 sts from stitch holder on top of hand and 7 sts inside the hand back on needles, pick in addition up 3 sts towards the ring finger and cast on 2 new st towards sts on stitch holder = 20 sts. Work in the round with P over P and K over K over the 8 sts mid on top of finger, P 1 towards ring finger on top of hand and work the remaining 11 sts in stocking st. When finger measures 8 cm, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 10 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

INDEX FINGER:
Slip the remaining 16 sts from stitch holders back on the needles, pick in addition up 4 sts towards the middle finger = 20 sts. Work in the round with P over P and K over K over the 8 sts mid on top of finger, P 2 towards middle finger on top of hand and work the remaining 10 sts in stocking st. When finger measures 7 cm, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 10 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the sts over thumb gusset back on the needles and knit in addition up 3 sts along the edge behind the thumb sts = 18 sts. Work in stocking st in the round. When thumb measures 6 cm, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 9 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

RIGHT GLOVE:
Work as left glove but reversed – i.e. work pattern according to diagram A.8A/A.8B (instead of A.7A/A.7B) and inc for thumb gusset on each side of third st at beg (instead of in third to last st on round).

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 24.10.2016
Correction: Diagram A.1 has been updated.

Updated online: 30.03.2017
Chart A.2 updated (stars moved from row 1 to 2)

Diagram

	= K
	= P
	= K 1 st in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
	= no stitch, skip this square
	= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round P YO twisted to avoid holes
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
	= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
	= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
	= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
	= K 2 tog

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

Linda wrote:

I have worked out my issue with the pattern. I enlarged the diagram and could then see the increase stitches. Can't wait to see my finished hat.

23.06.2024 - 11:10

I am struggling with Vadelma hat pattern. Just can't work out what to do after round 5. Where do I do the YO to make the extra stitches? Thanks

23.06.2024 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, please, look closely at the A.1 pattern, and see the symbol for yarnover after the first two stitch (the black squares after the first stitch are no stitches, you skip them), and then there is the symbole for yarnover. Happy Knitting!

23.06.2024 - 15:15

Eva Linde wrote:

På andra varvet på mönstret ska man göra en avig maska! Gör man en ny då? Det har jag provat men mönstret går inte jämt ut! Det gäller mössan! MVH Eva

04.11.2020 - 20:28

Hej Eva. På varv 1 i diagram A.1 ökar du 2 maskor genom att göra omslag på 2 ställen (den symbolen som ser ut som en oval ring). Det är dessa omslag som gör att det blir fler maskor på varv 2 i diagrammet. Mvh DROPS Design

05.11.2020 - 08:56

Förstår inte mönstret från början på mönstret! Ska den extra maskan som ska var avig inte räknar in i mönstret på andra varvet?

04.11.2020 - 20:17

SUSANNA GOLOMER wrote:

Hello, why is the tension in this pattern different for the neck warmer and the gloves (24 stitches vs 26), please? Is that intentional? Thank you.

20.12.2019 - 11:45

Dear Mrs Golomer, yes, gloves are worked with smaller needles (= size 2,5 mm), so that they are more tight/warm. Happy knitting!

20.12.2019 - 16:20

Petra Stammkötter wrote:

Hallo, erstmal danke für die super schnelle Antwort. Ich glaube, ich habe das falsch ausgedrückt. In Reihe 26 (Reihe 2 von A2) sollen die 2 M heraus gestrickt werden. Aus welcher Masche werden diese heraus gestrickt? Wenn ich die aus den beiden rechten M heraus stricke, komme ich auf 4 statt wie in R 3 von A2 8 rechte M. An der Stelle hakt es irgendwie. Nochmal vielen Dank. Petra Stammkötter

17.12.2018 - 17:53

Liebe Frau Stammkötter, es war etwas nicht richtig im Diagram, eine neues Diagram werden wir bald hochladen, Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.12.2018 - 14:44

Hallo, ich verstehe bei der Mütze den Wechsel von A1 auf A2 nicht. In welchen Maschen werden die Maschen zugenommen? Die ersten Maschen sind 2 linke, dann folgen 2 rechte. Nach meinem Verständnis fehlen dort 2 Maschen, der Wechsel kommt nicht hin. Können Sie mir das freundlicherweise erklären? Ich finde die Mütze sehr schön und würde diese gerne zu Ende stricken, komme an der Stelle aber nicht weiter. Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Petra Stammkötter

17.12.2018 - 09:37

Liebe Frau Stammkötter, diese 2 Maschen sind sicher die 2 Sternchen in der 2. Reihe in A.2 (am Anfang), die Sie dann zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.12.2018 - 10:25

Christel wrote:

Suite à mon commentaires précédent,l’erreur semble se trouver à la ligne 2 de A2.Il ya deux mailles endroits qui n’exiStaient pas dans le rang précédent

12.12.2017 - 18:35

Bonjour Christel, tout à fait, on doit augmenter 2 m, 1 m à chaque étoile au rang 2 de A.2, on a ainsi 28 m pour le rang suivant. Bon tricot!

13.12.2017 - 10:16

Chrytye wrote:

Bonjour.j’ai un souci avec la transition entre A1 et A2.le nombre de mailles ne correspond pas. Merci pour votre aide

12.12.2017 - 18:09

Bonjour Mme Chrytye, au dernier rang de A.1 tout comme au 1er rang de A.2 vous avez 26 m. Au 2ème rang de A.2, on augmente 2 m (cf étoile), on a ainsi 28 m à ce niveau, le 3ème rang de A.2 se tricote ensuite sur 28 m. Bon tricot!

13.12.2017 - 10:12

Bonjour. Pour les augmentations du pouce(pour les gants). Il est dit 7 fois au total tous les 3 tours. 3 tours on compte 3 tours et le 4eme on augmente ou on augmente au 3eme tour?

28.11.2017 - 18:34

Bonjour Christel, on augmente au 3ème tour (= 2 tours sans augmentations, 1 tour avec augmentations). Bon tricot!

29.11.2017 - 08:58