DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
find alternatives
DROPS 171-43
DROPS design: Pattern no de-163
Yarn group A
Measurements: approx. 68 cm mid back, and approx. 145 cm measured along the edge at the top.
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
250 g colour no 10, olive/rust/plum

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

Work squares with different colours on every round, therefore divide 1 of the balls in several balls out based on colour change in ball.

The piece is worked top down. READ COLOUR CHANGE SQUARES. Use crochet hook size 3.5 mm and work according to diagram A.1. NOTE: Switch colour for every round in A.1. When A.1 has been worked, switch to an entirely new ball and continue according to diagram A.2 (do not switch colour for every row in A.2). Work according to A.2 until 29 rows have been worked in total according to diagram A.2 - REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION. Fasten off.
Work 27 new squares according to A.1 – REMEMBER COLOUR CHANGE. When squares are ready, place them in a nice order along the last row worked according to A.2. Fasten them tog and then to edge. NOTE: Fasten one square at the tip of shawl and the 2 outermost squares at the long side should be half a square outside edge.
Then continue according to A.2 in under side of squares as before (i.e. work 3 tr around every ch along the side/around each corner space and 1 ch over every tr-group, but around tip work 4 tr, 3 ch and 4 tr). Work 11 rows in total according to diagram A.2. Fasten off.


symbols = 3 ch at beg of round, finish round with
1 sl st in 3rd ch
symbols = tr around ch/ch-space
symbols = 6 ch that form a ring with 1 sl st
symbols = ch
symbols = 5 ch at beg of a row
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 171-43

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Shirley Fischer wrote:

Where is diagram A-2?

10.08.2022 - 15:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fischer, you will find it just following A.1 - see the brackets over the last 2 rows on the left side of A.1. Happy crocheting!

10.08.2022 - 16:18

country flag Elizabeth Cordova wrote:

Son muy bonitos fácil de hacer y los tonos igualmente muy bonitos

24.04.2022 - 21:23

country flag Sagrario wrote:

Haciendo 29 vueltas solo me entran en cada lado 11 cuadrados más uno en la punta, me sobran 4 ¿Que he hecho mal?

01.04.2022 - 19:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Sagrario, lo primero, tienes que comprobar que la tensión sea correcta. Puede ser que los cuadrados te hayan quedado más grandes que lo indicado en el patrón. En ese caso, puedes agrandar la parte central, a la que se unen los cuadrados, añadiendo más vueltas. Ten en cuenta que los cuadrados en los extremos quedan con una mitad fuera de la orilla.

06.04.2022 - 20:05

country flag Sagrario wrote:

Cuando toca hacer las tres varetas sobre las cinco cadenas, en que cadena hay que hacerlas, en la tercera o en la cuarta. Gracias, a ver si me sale es precioso

31.03.2022 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Sagrario. Los 5 puntos de cadeneta al inicio de la vuelta sustituyen 1 punto alto (para que el borde no quede tenso). Los 3 puntos altos al final de la fila siguiente se trabajan en el 5º punto de cadeneta o, si es muy complicado, puedes trabajar entre las cinco cadenetas y el punto alto.

31.03.2022 - 19:50

country flag Else Merete Thyness wrote:

Dette er en veldig dårlig oppskrift. Jeg måtte hekle etter bildene. Ligner ikke DROPS å ha en så lite forklarende oppskrift. Den heter Autumn Harvest.

12.10.2021 - 10:52

country flag Susanne Blöckl wrote:

Ich komme nicht klar mit dem Anfang des Tuchs. A1 häkeln, ok; aber wie viele Maschen anschlagen? Oder wird rund gehäkelt? Die Granny s waren kein Problem. Von oben nach unten häkeln? Ist obdue breite Seite?

15.04.2021 - 16:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Blöckl, A.1 ist ein granny und wird in Runden gehäkelt, siehe 1. Symbol = Anfang. Dann häkeln Sie in Reihen - siehe schriftliche Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

16.04.2021 - 14:00

country flag Marlene Allinson wrote:

Is a tr in the pattern a UK treble or a US treble ie a UK double double?) I have done the 29 rows from the tip am using a 3.5hook and the correct yarn but my shawl is no where near big enough and I don’t think it’s a tension problem. Your symbol is not one I can find anywhere it is a short bar with a round solid circle in the middle of it. Help please? I have enough yarn to carry on but can’t work out what’s wrong!

16.02.2021 - 17:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Marlene, If you are using the English UK language , the tr will be a UK treble. Happy crocheting!

17.02.2021 - 07:42

country flag Patricia wrote:

Can someone help please. I'm doing the edging on this pattern and cannot see the corners. Do I go along the bottom up to the corners and turn or do I go round them up the side edges?

14.09.2020 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, not sure I understand properly your question sorry - you first crochet a square = A.1 - then crochet following A.2 along 2 of the sides of the square, and continue with A.2, ie 3 tr around every chain along each side and (4 tr, 3 ch, 4 tr) in the middle chain-space (= the 3-chain-space in the middle of shawl). Hope this helps, happy crocheting!

14.09.2020 - 15:51

country flag Elena wrote:

No veo 2 diagramas no se cual es el 1 y 2

12.01.2020 - 13:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Elena. El diagrama A.1 es el cuadrado central (ver la foto - en el centro del lado largo del chal), después se trabajan las repeticiones de A.2 las veces indicadas según el patrón o el tamaño deseado. Ahora trabajamos varios cuadrados sueltos según el diagrama A.1 para formar el borde del chal y terminamos con el diagrama A.2. ( En el diagrama bajo el patrón, A.1 es el cuadrado central y A.2 el borde exterior, ambos se encuentran indicados en el mismo dibujo).

12.01.2020 - 23:19

country flag Patti Sergi wrote:

Where can I buy Drops Delight yarns color #10 olive, plum ?

09.07.2019 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patti, when you go to the yarn's page heret you can find a green "order now" button that will take you links of stores that stock this yarn. Happy Knitting!

09.07.2019 - 22:56