DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Stavanger Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket worked top down with round yoke and multi-coloured pattern on yoke in ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 173-50
DROPS design: Pattern no z-751
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-450 g colour no 618, light beige
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 2923, goldenrod
colour no 2925, rust
colour no 3650, maroon
colour no 3770, dark rose
colour no 6309, medium petrol
colour no 7233, olive
colour no 9020, light pearl grey
colour no 9022, coral

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-8-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how to dec/inc evenly, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 132 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 26) = 4.7. I.e. in this example K alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th st and every 4th and 5th st tog when dec (do not dec over bands). If inc is done, this is done alternately approx. every 4th and 5th st.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size). Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP-1 (applies to bands):
On the rows where there are pattern border, work base colour in pattern border also over the 5 band sts in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Dec from RS when 3 sts remain on row as follows: Make 1 YO, K the next 2 sts tog, K last st. On next round K the YO to make a hole.
Dec first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then dec the next 6-6-7-7-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 8-8-7½-7½-7-7 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 132-140-148-156-160-160 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with dark pink. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 5 bands sts in garter st. Continue rib like this – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. When rib measures 3 cm, K 1 row from RS while at the same time dec 26-29-27-25-24-24 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 106-111-121-131-136-136 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Insert 1 marker mid back. Beg from WS with dark pink and P until 9-10-11-11-12-12 sts have been worked past marker (K band), turn, tighten yarn and K 18-20-22-22-24-24. Turn, tighten yarn and P 27-30-33-33-36-36 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 36-40-44-44-48-48 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and P 45-50-55-55-60-60 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 54-60-66-66-72-72 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and P 63-70-77-77-84-84 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 72-80-88-88-96-96 sts back. turn and P the rest of row (K band).
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 6 sts remain on row (= 19-20-22-24-25-25 repetitions of 5 sts. NOTE: choose diagram for correct size – in size XXL + XXXL: work first A.1A then A.1B over A.1A), work first st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same in each side towards mid front - NOTE: Do not inc in this st) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION On row marked with arrow in diagram inc 1-3-0-0-9-11 sts evenly (inc in the sections with light beige and do not inc over bands). When diagram A.1 has been worked, there are 354-374-407-443-470-497 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 18-19-20-22-24-26 cm (measured mid front without rib in neck). Work next row as follows from WS: Work as before with light beige over the first 55-57-61-68-74-80 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 72-78-86-90-92-94 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-8-10-10-14-16 new sts (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the next 100-104-113-127-138-149 sts (= back piece), slip the next 72-78-86-90-92-94 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-8-10-10-14-16 sts (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the remaining 55-57-61-68-74-80 sts (= left front piece).
Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 222-234-255-283-314-341 sts. Insert 1 marker 58-61-66-73-81-88 sts in from each side (= 106-112-123-137-152-165 sts between markers on back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with light beige and stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. When piece measures 2-2-2-3-3-4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 2½-2½-2½-3-3-4 cm a total of 5-5-5-4-4-3 times in each side = 202-214-235-267-298-329 sts. When piece measures 16-17-18-18-18-18 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 3-3-3-4-4-5 cm a total of 5-5-5-4-4-3 times in each side = 222-234-255-283-314-341 sts. Continue until piece measures 29-30-31-31-31-31 cm (jacket measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder). K 1 row from RS while inc 62-74-77-81-82-87 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 284-308-332-364-396-428 sts. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work next row from WS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain and finish with P 2 and 5 band sts in garter st. Continue rib like this. When rib measures 6 cm (jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder) inc 1 st in every transition between K 2 and P 2 by making 1 YO (= 68-74-80-88-96-104 sts inc) = 352-382-412-452-492-532 sts on needle (this inc is done to avoid a tight cast-off edge). On next row cast off with garter st over garter st, K over K and P over P (work YOs twisted before casting them off as regular sts).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle from top down. Switch to double pointed needles when needed. Slip the 72-78-86-90-92-94 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition 1 st in each of the 6-8-10-10-14-16 sts cast on under sleeve = 78-86-96-100-106-110 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-8-10-10-14-16 sts under sleeve (= beg of round). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with light beige. When sleeve measures 1-1-3-3-1-3 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-1. Dec like this every 3-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm 13-15-19-20-22-23 times in total = 52-56-58-60-62-64 sts. When piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-32 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), K 1 round while inc 16-16-18-20-22-24 sts evenly = 68-72-76-80-84-88 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2. When rib measures 8 cm (or desired length) inc 1 st in every transition between K 2 and P 2 by making 1 YO (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 sts inc) = 85-90-95-100-105-110 sts. On next round cast off sts with K over K and P over P (work YOs twisted before casting them off as regular sts). Sleeve measures approx. 46-45-44-42-41-40 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.02.2019
Correction - YOKE: Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 6 sts remain on row (= 19-20-22-24-25-25 repetitions of 5 sts. NOTE: choose diagram for correct size – in size XXL + XXXL: work first A.1A then A.1B over A.1A)

Diagram

symbols = dark pink

symbols = light beige
symbols = goldenrod
symbols = light pearl grey
symbols = olive
symbols = medium petrol
symbols = maroon
symbols = coral
symbols = rust
symbols = 1 YO in base colour in pattern stripe, on next row P YO twisted to avoid hole
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = inc row
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Virginie wrote:

J'ai déjà tricoté cette veste pour ma fille, elle est magnifique. Je souhaiterais la tricoter à nouveau en baby merino. Pouvez vous me dire ce que vous en pensez ? Le rendu sera t'il très différent ?

06.02.2024 - 10:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Virginie, l'effet sera différent car les 2 laines sont différentes, toutefois, Baby Merino se prête bien aux jacquards, retrouvez nos modèles type nordique ici à titre d'exemple. Bon tricot!

07.02.2024 - 07:50

country flag Kerstin Davidsson wrote:

Hej. Tack för att ni svarade på min fråga igår om ökningarna i A1. Då förstod jag bättre. Jag undrar nu om jag också ska öka enligt texten : "På v markerat med pil i diag ökas det 3 m (storlek M) jämnt fördelat osv." Det är lite svårt att läsa denna beskrivning rätt. Tack för att ni hjälper mig. Kerstin

14.05.2022 - 10:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kerstin. Når du har 4 pinner igjen av diagram A.1, har du 370 masker på pinnen (5 stolpemasker + 20 rapporter av A.1 (= 360 m) + 5 stolpemasker). Deretter skal du i str. M øke med 3 masker jevnt fordelt på hele pinnen = 373 masker (husk: øk de 3 maskene i partiene med lys beige og det økes ikke over stolpene). mvh DROPS Design

16.05.2022 - 08:46

country flag Kerstin Davidsson wrote:

Jag stickar modell 173-50 damkofta. Diag A1 st. M Stora problem med att det inte står något om ökningen till 374 m när A1 är klart. Liknande modeller har kompletta beskrivningar. I diag står bara att vid PIL så ökas 3 m på det varvet . (13 ggr á 3 m) Tacksam för svar.

13.05.2022 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kerstin, jo når du følger diagram A.1 for din størrelse, så ser du at på varv 3 i diagrammet (du starter nederst i diagrammet), laver du et omslag før de 5 masker, det gør du så hele vejen rundt i hver rapport. Næste udtagning er på varv 7 men nu är det sist i diagrammet. Lycka till!

13.05.2022 - 13:39

country flag Barbara Straatsma wrote:

Ik heb de boord en de verhoging achter klaar. Als ik het patroon ga breien, moet ik de av naald dan ook volgens patroon breien? Is dat de volgende toer volgens het patroon? Of is dat dezelfde kleur als de r naald? Groetjes Barbara

24.04.2021 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Barbara,

Ja, de averechtse naald brei je ook volgens patroon, dus op de verkeerde kant. In het telpatroon zijn alle naalden aangegeven, dus zowel de naalden aan de goede kant als aan de verkeerde kant. De heengaande naalden zijn steeds de oneven naalden in het patroon en de teruggaande naalden zijn de even naalden in het patroon.

25.04.2021 - 17:58

country flag Anne wrote:

Jeg søker med valg «nedenfra opp». Hvorfor vises disse som er ovenfra ned ?

07.12.2019 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne! Dessverre er vår søkemotor ikke perfekt, sannsynligvis får du opp plagg som strikkes ovenfra og ned fordi ordet "opp" er inkludert i ditt søk. Du kan prøve å bare søke på nedenfra, ellers har Ravelry.com en mer avansert søkemotor der det er mulig å spesifisere ditt søk enda mer. Alle våre mønstre finnes på Ravelry.com, bare søk på Garnstudio. Lykke til!

09.12.2019 - 10:36

country flag Ricci wrote:

Bonjour je craque littéralement pour ce gilet , les couleurs sont superbe! Mais voilà je n' ai jamais tricoté de jacquard. Me le conseillez vous pour une débutante d' autant que j' ai découvert la technique du steek et j' aimerai également me lancer car tricoter un gilet à plat je n' aime pas trop. Qu' en pensez vous? Je vous remercie pour tous vos conseils qui sont toujours très bons ! Si vous avez des modèles pour debutantes je veux bien aussi

23.11.2019 - 16:25

country flag Ricci wrote:

Bonjour je craque littéralement pour ce gilet , les couleurs sont superbe! Mais voilà je n' ai jamais tricoté de jacquard. Me le conseillez vous pour une débutante d' autant que j' ai découvert la technique du steek et j' aimerai également me lancer car tricoter un gilet à plat je n' aime pas trop. Qu' en pensez vous? Je vous remercie pour tous vos conseils qui sont toujours très bons ! Si vous avez des modèles pour debutantes je veux bien aussi

23.11.2019 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ricci, vous pouvez vous aider des vidéos relatives à ce modèle dont celles du jacquard (sur l'endroit et sur l'envers), Si vous voulez utiliser la technique des mailles steek, vous pouvez consulter la vidéo et les modèles concernés; votre magasin DROPS saura vous assister et vous conseiller si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

25.11.2019 - 08:20

country flag Judith Butler wrote:

This website won't allow me to download the free pdf. Please advise

25.10.2019 - 07:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Butler, our patterns can only be printed (by clicking on the icon button "Print", but choosing a virtual printer will allow you to save them as a .PDF file. Happy knitting!

25.10.2019 - 09:58

country flag Graziella wrote:

Ora vedo il simbolo su questo schema in inglese. Sullo schema in italiano c’è un quadrato vuoto, probabilmente un errore di trascrizione e quindi non capivo. Grazie molte

15.01.2019 - 21:36

country flag Graziella wrote:

Non riesco a capire il simbolo del quadrato con la X cosa sia. Grazie

15.01.2019 - 20:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Graziella. Il quadrato con la X indica che deve lavorare quella maglia con il colore rosa scuro. Buon lavoro!

15.01.2019 - 21:28