DROPS Extra / 0-1286

Warm Apricot Cardigan by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and raglan in ”Safran”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no e-242
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 13, coral

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 6 pieces in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CROCHET INFO:
On every tr row replace first tr with 3 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 1 ch.
Replace first tr at on every tr round with 3 ch, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
On every dc round, replace first dc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same tr.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 3 tr remain before the marker thread, work 2 tr in next tr (= 1 tr inc), work 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr (the marker thread is in the middle of these sts), work 2 tr in next tr (= 1 tr inc).

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.2.
Inc 2 sts BEFORE A.2 as follows: Work until 2 tr remain before A.2, work 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr (= 2 tr inc).
Inc 2 sts AFTER A.2 as follows: Work 2 tr in each of the first 2 tr after A.2 (= 2 tr inc).
Inc 1 sts BEFORE A.2 as follows: Work until 1 tr remains before A.2, work 2 tr in next tr (= 1 tr inc).
Inc 1 sts AFTER A.2 as follows: Work 2 tr in first tr after A.2 (= 1 tr inc).
The inc on body and sleeves are uneven as explained in pattern.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 tr remain before marker thread, work the next 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in next tr, but on last pull through pull yarn through all sts on hook - 1 tr have been dec, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr (marker thread is between these sts), work the next 2 tr tog (= 1 tr dec).
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YOKE:
Worked back and forth, top down. Work 174-179-184-189-194-199 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran. Work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 138-142-146-150-154-158 tr (= incl 5 band tr in each side of piece).

Then work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 5 tr (= band), A.1 over the next 7 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-12-13-14-15-16 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-7-8 tr evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-1 – (= front piece), A.2 over the next 11 tr, 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, 2 tr in next tr, A.2 over the next 11 tr (= sleeve), 1 tr in each of the next 36-38-40-42-44-46 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-10-10-12-14-16 tr evenly (= back piece), A.2 over the next 11 tr, 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, 2 tr in next tr, A.2 over the next 11 tr (= sleeve), 1 tr in each of the next 11-12-13-14-15-16 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-7-8 tr evenly, A.1 over the next 7 tr (= front piece), 1 tr in each of the last 5 tr (= band). On front piece there are now 5 band sts, A.1 and 15-17-18-20-22-24 tr, on sleeve there is A.2, 8 tr and A.2 and on back piece there are 44-48-50-54-58-62 tr. On next row inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above!

INC AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT AND BACK PIECE: Inc 2 tr every row 3-4-7-9-13-16 times in total, then 1 tr every row 12-12-10-9-6-5 times in total.
INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES: Inc 2 tr every row 0-0-1-3-4-4 times in total, then 1 tr every row 15-16-16-15-15-17 times in total. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a over A.1 and A.2a over A.2. After all inc there are now on each front piece 5 band sts, A.1 and 33-37-42-47-54-61 tr, on each sleeve there is A.2, 38-40-44-50-54-58 tr and A.2 and on back piece there are 80-88-98-108-122-136 tr. Piece measures approx. 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm. Work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 5 tr, A.1a as before, 1 tr in each of the next 33-37-42-47-54-61 tr, work 8 ch (= under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle between the new ch, skip: A.2a, 38-40-44-50-54-58 tr and A.2a (= sleeve), work 1 tr in each of the next 80-88-98-108-122-136 tr, 8 ch (= under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new sts, skip: A.2a, 38-40-44-50-54-58 tr and A.2a (= sleeve), work 1 tr in each of the next 33-37-42-47-54-61 tr, A.1a as before, 1 tr in each of the last 5 tr = 156-172-192-212-240-268 tr (incl 5 band sts in each side), 16 ch and A.1a inside 5 band tr in each side of piece. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Move marker threads when working, leave the marker in piece.

BODY:
Work 1 tr in every tr, 1 tr in every ch and A.1a as before. There are 88-96-106-116-130-144 tr between marker threads on back piece. When piece measures 3 cm (measured from marker), dec 1 st on each side of each marker threads in the side (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-4-3½-4½-4½-4½ cm 3-3-4-3-3-4 more times = 156-172-188-212-240-264 tr in total (incl band sts in each side) and A.1a inside 5 band tr in each side of piece. There are 80-88-96-108-122-134 tr on back piece. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm (measured from marker), inc 1 st on each side of each marker thread (= 4 tr inc) – see INCREASE TIP-2. Repeat inc every 1½ cm 6-6-7-6-6-7 more times = 184-200-220-240-268-296 tr on row (incl 5 band sts in each side) and A.1a inside 5 band tr in each side of piece. Continue with 1 tr in every tr and A.1a until piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm (measured from marker). Piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm in total from neck edge. Work 1 edge along the bottom of the jacket as follows: Work * 1 dc in first/next tr, 4 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* over tr, work A.1a over A.1a as before. Adjust to finish with 1 dc in last tr. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr). Then work with 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, A.2a as before, 1 tr in each of the next 38-40-44-50-54-58 tr, A.2a as before, 1 tr in each of the last 4 ch under sleeve, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Work 1 tr in every tr and A.2a until 1 whole repetition of A.2a has been worked. Then work 1 tr in every tr, work A.2b over A.2a = 68-70-74-80-84-88 tr. On next round work 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 tr evenly = 56-58-62-68-72-76 tr. Work 1 tr in every tr until sleeve edge measures approx. 4 cm. Work * 1 dc in first/next tr, 4 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire sleeve. Fasten off. Work a sleeve edge around the other sleeve.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid front. Work * 1 dc in first/next tr, 4 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck, make sure to avoid a tight neck edge. Adjust to finish with 1 dc in last tr.

POCKET:
Work 34 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran. Work A.3a 4 times in total in width (NOTE: Work first dc in 2nd ch from hook), finish with first st of A.3a in last ch (so piece is the same in both sides). NOTE: Always work last st as first st in diagram. When A.3a has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.3b over A.3a until piece measures 7 cm, adjust so that last row is last row in A.3b, then work A.3c over A.3b. Fasten off. Crochet another pocket.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew pockets on to jacket, approx. 7 cm from bottom edge and approx. in the middle on front piece. Fasten buttons on left band, fasten the top button approx. 2 cm from neck edge, then fasten them approx. 8 cm apart. Button between 2nd and 3rd tr on right band.

Diagram

= ch
= dc in tr/ch
= dc around ch-space
= tr in tr
= tr around ch-space
= Bobble: Work tr-group with 4 tr in same tr: * Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times in same tr, 1 YO, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
= Bobble: Work tr-group with 4 tr around same ch-space: * Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times around same ch-space, 1 YO, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
= first row is explained in pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1286) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Marianne Schmidt 03.10.2020 - 08:35:

Hvordan hækler jeg På hver omg med st erstattes første st med 3 lm, omg afsluttes med 1 km i 3.lm i beg af omg. I denne opskrift det er det med 1 kædemaske i 3 luftmasker jeg ikke forstår jeg er helt ny i hækling så kan du forklare det så jeg forstår det... Og kanten foran med de 5 masker hvor de 5 første masker skal være stangmasker skal jeg så ikke starte med 3 luftmasker og hvis ja bliver det ikke en grim kant så? Håber virkelig du kan hjælpe mig.

DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 12:53:

Hei Marianne. Jo, når du hekler rundt med staver, starter du med å hekle 3 luftmasker (da kommer du opp i samme høyde som en vanlig stav og disse luftmaskene erstatter 1 stav, om ikke annet er nevn i oppskriften). Nå du da har heklet omgangen rundt med staver, avslutter du med å feste omgangen med en kjedemaske i den siste av de 3 luftmaskene du startet omgangen med. Da har du liksom avsluttet omgangen/rundet. Stolpen foran jakken med 5 staver må også starte med 3 luftmasker, disse luftmaskene erstatter den første staven. Se gjerne hjelpevidoene til denne jakken. God Fornøyelse!

Marianne Schmidt 02.10.2020 - 06:29:

Jeg kan ikke finde knaphuller i opskriften? Tænkte så at det måske var fordi knapperne blev syet på uden huller.... Men jeg kunne se på billedet at der var knaphuller??

DROPS Design 02.10.2020 kl. 09:56:

Hej Marianne, knapperne knappes mellem 2. og 3. st på højre forkant, så der laves ikke knaphuller. God fornøjelse!

Stefania 24.07.2020 - 06:31:

Guten Tag, Ich kann die Anleitung für die Knopflöcher in der Blende nicht finden, wann werden diese gehäkelt? Danke für Ihre Hilfe

DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 09:34:

Liebe Stefania, es sind keine Knopflöcher bei dieser Jacke gearbeitet, Knöpfe werden zwischen dem 2. und dem 3. Stäbchen der rechten Blende zugeknöpft. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Kati 18.10.2019 - 19:22:

Hallo,ich häckel das Muster in Gr. L Ich habe pro Ärmel 2x A1. Nehme dann pro Ärmel in jeder Runde 6 Maschen zu wie in der Raglanzunahme beschrieben. Dazu noch die Maschen die in der Beschreibung unter "Wie folgt an den Ärmeln zunehmen". Wenn ich dann alle 17 Runden fertig habe, sind es deutlich mehr Maschen als ich haben sollte. Und wenn dort steht "1 Stb in jeder Runde insgesamt zunehmen", nehme ich dann abwechselnd 1x am rechten Arm und 1x am linken Arm zu? MfG

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 08:52:

Liebe Kati, Sie haben 8 Maschen zwischen A.2 für jeden Ärmel, So wird es zugenommen: 2 Maschen nach A.2/vor A.2 (= 4 M) x 1 + 1 M nach A.2/vor A.2 (= 2 M) x 16 = 4+32 = 36 Zunahmen + 8 Maschen = es sind jetzt 42 M für jeden Ärmel zwische beiden A.2 (Raglanlinie). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Le Roy 01.07.2019 - 15:57:

Pouvez vous m'expliquer pour les dopes..je fais la bride sans la finir

DROPS Design 02.07.2019 kl. 08:30:

Bonjour Mme Le Roy, tout à fait, pour faire 1 nope, crochetez 4 brides dans la même bride, mais à la fin de chacune de ces 4 brides, vous ne faites pas le dernier jeté (= vous avez alors 5 boucles sur le crochet), faites ensuite encore 1 dernier jeté et écoulez-le dans toutes les boucles sur le crochet. Bon crochet!

Le Roy 01.07.2019 - 13:49:

Bonjour je suis assez douée dans le crochet et franchement je m'arrache les cheveux avec vos explications ..il est vraiment compliqué et pas simple d'explications..je vais reesayer .sinon je chercherais quelque chose de plus simple..à voir comme çà en photo il parait simple

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 14:27:

Bonjour Mme Le Roy, Les modèles DROPS sont réalisés par des milliers de personnes du monde entier. Nous comprenons toutefois qu’en fonction du pays, les explications puissent être formulées différemment. Nous faisons naturellement en sorte que nos modèles soient compréhensibles. Vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question ici, et pour toute assistance individuelle, vous adresser au magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine – même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Le Roy 30.06.2019 - 20:43:

Bonjour je fais beaucoup de crochet..je vient de vous acheter cette laine pour faire le gilet.je voulais juste savoir le gilet se commence bien par le haut..il me parait assez compliqué.merci

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 07:53:

Bonjour Mme Le Roy! Le gilet se crochète de haut en bas. Suivez les explications et tout sera bien. Bon travail!

Jo 13.04.2019 - 18:30:

Please help. I am struggling to understand how exactly these Inc add up to the total before you start with the body "INC AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT AND BACK PIECE: Inc 2 tr every row 3-4-7-9-13-16 times in total, then 1 tr every row 12-12-10-9-6-5 times in total. INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES: Inc 2 tr every row 0-0-1-3-4-4 times in total, then 1 tr every row 15-16-16-15- 15-17 times in total." How many times should you now actually inc

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 09:48:

Dear Jo, the increases will be worked differently on body and on sleeves but at the same time. Depending on your size you will first increase 2 sts on every row (= 4 sts inc on back piece + 2 sts inc on each front piece) + 1 st on every row (= 2 sts inc on back piece + 1 st inc on each front piece) on body while increasing 2 sts (in the 4 largest sizes only) (= 4 sts inc on each sleeve) on every row then 1 st (2 sts inc on each sleeve) every row on sleeves. Happy crocheting!

Flaminia Cornaggia 18.02.2019 - 18:43:

Hi, I need some help with this pattern, please! At line 3 I should add only the Raglan augmentations? so it would be +2 front R +4 Rsleeve+4 back +4 L sleeve+2front L? Line 4 is only one augmentation each side of the A2 scheme? And only with line 5 I start augmenting back, front and sleeves as indicated at page3?

DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 09:11:

Dear Mrs Cornaggia, the increases for Raglan start on row 3, then depending on your size you will increase 2 sts on every row 3-16 times in total then 1 st on every row 12-5 times in total on body and on sleeves you will increase 2 sts on every row 0-4 times in total + 1 st on every row 15-17 times in total. This means you may have to increase only on body and sometimes on body and on sleeves. Happy crocheting!

Flaminia Cornaggia 18.02.2019 - 18:41:

Hi, I need some help with this pattern, please! At line 3 I should add only the Raglan augmentations? so it would be +2 front R +4 Rsleeve+4 back +4 L sleeve+2front L? Line 4 is only one augmentation each side of the A2 scheme? And only with line 5 I start augmenting back, front and sleeves as indicated at page3?

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