DROPS / 171 / 17

Rainbow Ripples by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS scarf with stripes and wave pattern in ”Delight”.

DROPS design: Pattern no de-161
Yarn group A
Measurements: approx. 30 x 160 cm
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 11, lilac/green
100 g colour no 10, olive/rust/plum
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 27 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
* Work 2 rows lilac/green, work 2 rows olive/rust/plum *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Work back and forth in STRIPES - see explanation above. Cast on 90 sts on needle size 4 mm with lilac/green. Work 3 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 21 sts) 4 times in total in width and finish with 3 sts in garter st. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 74 sts on needle, now work A.2 (= 17 sts) over A.1. Continue pattern and stripes like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 79 cm, adjust so that next stripe is with lilac/green, work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 10 sts evenly = 64 sts. Cast off.
Knit another part the same way.

Sew the 2 parts neatly tog along cast-off edges.


= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS
= K 2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Susanna 27.02.2017 - 16:57:

Volgens mij klopt het patroon ook niet. ( zie opmerking Marga Mohlmann 21/11/2016) Totaal aantal steken 74 en het patroon gaat over 17 steken 4 x 17 = 68... Hoe brei ik de resterende 6 steken dan?

DROPS Design 28.02.2017 kl. 15:54:

Hoi Susanna. Lees het antwoord aan Marga Mohlmann. Je breit eerste A.1 (waar je mindert in de tweede nld) daarna heb je 74 st en breit: 3 ribbelst, 4 keer A.2 (17 st per herhaling) en eindig met 3 ribbelst.

Birgitta Bäckström 03.01.2017 - 14:55:

Jag har samma problem som övriga, men förstår inte franska eller tyska. Kan ni svara mig på svenska. Jag har sett videon men blir inte klokare. När jag har 74 maskor efter A1 och stickar första varvet på A2 har jag fortfarande bara 74 maskor, när det ska vara 90 maskor. Snart blir jag tokig! Hälsningar-de bästa! Birgitta

DROPS Design 04.01.2017 kl. 13:37:

Hej. När du har stickat A.1 1 gång på höjden har du 74 m på stickan. Därefter fortsätter du med A.2. Du ska inte ha 90 m på stickan, utan har 74 till m tills arb mäter 79 cm då du minskar 10 m jämt fördelat = 64 m och maskar sedan av. Lycka till!

Kirsten 26.12.2016 - 12:03:

Frage hat sich erledigt, ich hatte die beiden Muster vertauscht...

Kirsten 26.12.2016 - 11:57:

Hallo, Das Muster A1 muss ja nur einmal gestrickt werden, danach A2. Aber wenn ich da immer nur Maschen zusammenstricke und nicht wieder zunehme, wird die gesamte Maschenzahl ja immer weniger. Wie komme ich denn immer wieder auf die 74 Maschen? Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Kirsten

DROPS Design 29.12.2016 kl. 14:10:

Liebe Kirsten, A.2 wird über 17 Maschen gestrickt, bei der 5. Reihe gibt est 6 Abnahmen (= 2 M re zs x 6 insgesamt) und 6 Umschläge, so wird die Maschenanzahl immer bei 17 bleiben. Siehe auch das Video unten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Njut 11.12.2016 - 22:54:

Bonjour, Tout d'abord merci pour votre réponse. J'ai de nouveau une question. Une fois qu'on a tricoté A1 on a 74 mailles. Mais lorsqu'on tricote 4x fois A2 on ne retombe pas sur ces 74 mailles mais sur 68 si on considère que A2 fais bien17 mailles ( personnellement j'en compte 18 =6x2 mailles tricotées ensemble +6 mailles jetées sur 6 autres). Merci par avance pour vos lumières .

DROPS Design 12.12.2016 kl. 09:50:

Bonjour Mme Njut, on a bien 17 m dans A.2 (2 m ens x 3), (1 jeté, 1 m end) x 5, 1 jeté (2 m ens x 3) = 3 + 10 + 1+3 = 17 m. On aura ainsi: 4 x 17 m de A.2 + 3 m point mousse de chaque côté = 68+6=74 m. Bon tricot!

Njut 27.11.2016 - 18:27:

Bonjour, Doit-on alterner tout au long du tricot les diagrammes A 1 et A2 ou doit-on tricoter A1 seulement au début de l'ouvrage? Comment repasse-t'on de 74 mailles à 90 si on alterne A1 et A2?

DROPS Design 28.11.2016 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Mme Njut, A.1 se tricote 1 seule fois au tout début, on tricote ensuite en suivant A.2 jusqu'à la fin. Bon tricot!

Ida 27.11.2016 - 12:17:

Pourquoi il est en 2 pièces? Est ce qu'on peut utiliser une laine plus grosse ? Merci

DROPS Design 28.11.2016 kl. 09:25:

Bonjour Ida, ce modèle se tricote en 2 parties assemblées entre elles au niveau des mailles rabattues, ainsi les 2 extrémités sont identiques. Vous pouvez tout à fait utiliser une laine plus épaisse, toutefois, le résultat pourrait s'en ressentir également au niveau texture, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin DROPS. Bon tricot!

Marga Mohlmann 21.11.2016 - 11:09:

Het patroon klopt niet, zoals in de nederlandse beschrijving. starten met 21 steken, dan A1, over 17 steken. klopt. dan A2. bij de 5e toer van A2 moet staan: 2x 2 samenbreien, 9 steken met een omhaal ertussen, dan weer 2x2 samenbreien. op deze manier ontstaan er weer 21 steken om na de 6e toer van A2 weer aan A1 te beginnen. prachtige golven zo!!

DROPS Design 21.11.2016 kl. 14:38:

Hoi Marga. Het patroon klopt. Je mindert 4 st per herhaling in de tweede nld van A.1 (van 21 naar 17 st). En in A.2 heb je 6 keer 2 st r samen breien en 6 omslagen = het aantal st blijft dan gelijk.

Anne-Beate Dokken 02.10.2016 - 12:24:

Når det er strikket A1en gang strikkes det A2 resten av lengden. Takk for hjelpen

DROPS Design 03.10.2016 kl. 10:44:

Hei Anne-Beate. Ja, du gentager A.2 hele tiden. A.1 har du kun strikket 1 gang.

Dropsy Marie 27.06.2016 - 17:46:

C'est vrai, il est trop beau !

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