DROPS / 169 / 3

Summer Leaves by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with leaf pattern, ridges and round yoke, worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-691
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour no 18, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 35 rows pattern (A.2) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Dec for buttonhole on band at the end of row seen from RS. Work until 4 sts remain. Make 1 YO, K the next 2 sts tog, work the last 2 sts on row.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from cast-on edge and along the band):
SIZE S: 2, 8, 14 and 19 cm
SIZE M: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 8, 14 and 21 cm.
SIZE XL: 2, 8, 15 and 22 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 9, 16 and 23 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 9, 16 and 24 cm.

The piece is worked top down. Yoke is worked back and forth on circular needle with button band on the back, then work the body in the round.

Cast on 89-95-101-113-125-131 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Cast off for BUTTON HOLES mid back - see explanation above. Work 5 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= band), A.1 until 5 sts remain, 5 sts in garter st (= band). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: 5 sts in garter st, A.2 (= 6 sts), repeat A.2 13-14-15-17-19-20 times in total, finish with first st in A.2 (so that pattern is the same in each side), finish with 5 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 245-263-281-317-353-371 sts on needle. Then work as follows: 5 sts in garter st, A.3 (= 17 sts), repeat A.4 11-12-13-15-17-18 times, A.5 (= 20 sts) and 5 sts in garter st. When A.3-A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 284-305-326-368-410-431 sts on needle. Continue in garter st until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm, on last row from WS adjust no of sts to 283-307-331-365-397-429. Continue to work as follows (from RS): Cast off the first 5 sts, work the first 39-43-47-53-59-65 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 61-65-69-74-78-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the next 78-86-94-106-118-130 sts (= front piece), slip the next 61-65-69-74-78-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 39-43-47-53-59-65 sts (= half back piece).

There are now 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts for body. Insert a marker in each side of body where new sts were cast on under sleeve (= 3 new sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue with stocking st, now work in the round. When piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm 5 more times = 192-208-224-248-272-296 sts. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Cast off. The whole piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm (= 61-65-69-74-78-82 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 6 sts cast on under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these sts = 67-71-75-80-84-88 sts. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm, then work in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side marker, repeat dec every 2-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm 9-10-11-13-14-15 more times = 47-49-51-52-54-56 sts. Continue in stocking st until sleeve measures 27-27-26-26-25-25 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), switch to double pointed needle size 3.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Place band without buttonholes under band with buttonholes and fasten the bottom band. Sew on buttons.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row work YO not twisted (= to make holes)
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row work YO twisted (= to avoid holes)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (108)

Katarzyna 14.08.2020 - 11:13:

Dzien dobry ,chcialabym zeobic caly sweter ,czy oczka na dziurki mam pominac w nabieraniu na druty i rozmarze?

DROPS Design 14.08.2020 kl. 12:33:

Witaj Kasiu. Nie wiem czy dobrze rozumiem, że nie chcesz wykonywać ażuru na górze? Jeśli tak to nie możesz pominąć dziurek, te oczka dalej muszą być tylko będą przerabiane dżersejem lub ściegiem jaki będziesz chciała. Powodzenia!

Yvonne Wendling 29.06.2020 - 09:25:

Ah! Okay merci beaucoup. Bien à vous.... Yvonne

Yvonne Wendling 29.06.2020 - 09:22:

Ah okay ! Merci beaucoup. Bien à vous Yvonne.

Yvonne Wendling 29.06.2020 - 07:44:

Bonjour Merci pour votre réponse Je ne sais pas Comment procéder pour avoir l' url de la photo que je voudrais mettre en ligne sur votre site. Merci de m'aider. Yvonne

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:17:

Bonjour Mme Wendling, pour nous envoyez le lien, il faut que vous ayez publié votre photo sur un blog ou bien instagram - ou bien dans le groupe DROPS Workshop. Merci!

Christiane Zeidler 28.06.2020 - 15:35:

Stricke gerade die Ärmel an.\r\nHänge da fest wo die 6 neu angeschlagenen Maschen vom Body sind. Was mache ich damit.?Wenn ich sie liegen lasse bekomme ich ein Loch? Danke für eure Hilfe😊

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 14:15:

Liebe Frau Zeidler, Sie werden bei der Ärmel 1 Masche in jeder der 6 neu angeschlagenen Maschen auffassen damit es kein Loch unter den Arm gibt - Schauen Sie dieses Lektion - ab Punkt 18 B) - es wird gezeigt, wie man die Ärmel weiterstrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maria Trausner 31.05.2020 - 16:49:

Ich würde gerne die Passe auch in Runden stricken, also ohne Knopfleiste am Rücken. Ist das möglich, oder was spricht dagegen? Danke!

DROPS Design 02.06.2020 kl. 10:06:

Liebe Frau Trausner, wahrscheinlich können Sie den Pullover so änderen, aber leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Yvonne Wendling 24.04.2020 - 17:28:

Oh! la! la! J'ai compris faudra que je détricote les dernières rangées tout est faut mais pas grave car c'est en faisant des erreurs qu'on apprend... Merci beaucoup pour vos explications. Yvonne.

Yvonne Wendling 24.04.2020 - 16:14:

La seule solution que j'ai trouvé c'est peut-être de tricoter une rangée du jeu 3 1/2 sur le jeu 4 puis continuer en rond ?🤔

DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 16:26:

Bonjour Mme Wendling, cette leçon vous montre comment tricoter de haut en bas, à partir de la photo 9,on divise les mailles des manches, en montant les nouvelles mailles, puis on continue le dos et le devant en rond (photos 15 et 16). Tricotez bien ce premier tour sur l'endroit avec la nouvelle aiguille circulaire et joignez à la fin du tour, comme sur les photos. Bon tricot!

Yvonne Wendling 24.04.2020 - 16:04:

Ok merci...excusez mon ignorance mais comment assembler les deux côtés du dos en allant des aiguilles circulaires numéro 3 1/2 aux aiguilles circulaires numéro 4 pour pouvoir continuer à tricoter en rond ?🙄 Yvonne.

DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 16:23:

Bonjour Mme Wendling, prenez votre aiguille circulaire 4 et tricotez les dernières mailles du rang précédent (la 2ème moitié du dos, vu sur l'endroit, de haut en bas) (serrez un peu le fil pour éviter une maille lâche), tricotez les autres mailles du rang. Quand la dernière maille est tricotée, mettez un marqueur après cette maille, toutes les mailles sont maintenant sur l'aiguille 4 et vous pouvez tricoter en rond, en jersey (= tous les tours à l'endroit). Bon tricot!

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