DROPS / 167 / 7

Country Girl by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat with fan pattern in ”Muskat”.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-696
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
150-200 g colour no 18, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 11 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.2 shows how round beg and ends.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every round beg with tr with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 tr by working the next 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same tr.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Work 5 ch on hook size 3 mm with Muskat and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 11 tr in ring – read CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2: Work 2 tr in every tr = 22 tr.
ROUND 3: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 33 tr.
ROUND 4: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 44 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 5: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 55 tr.
ROUND 6: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 66 tr.
ROUND 7: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 77 tr.
ROUND 8: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 tr.
ROUND 9: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 7 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 99 tr. Now work differently in the different sizes.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 10: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 tr.
Then work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 16 cm.
Work next round as follows: Work 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 tr evenly READ DECREASE TIP = 105 tr. Work brim.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 10: Work * 2 tr in first/next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 8 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 110 tr.
ROUND 11: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, * 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 17 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 116 tr.
Then work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 17 cm.
Work next round as follows: Work 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 tr evenly READ DECREASE TIP = 112 tr. Work brim.

BRIM:
Now work A.1 as follows (repeat A.1 15-16 times in total on round):
ROUND 1: A.2 shows how round beg and ends - remember CROCHET INFO. Work * 2 ch, skip the first/next 3 tr, in next tr work 1 dtr + 2 ch + 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 dtr, 1 ch, skip 3 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in first ch = 15-16 tr/dtr-groups and 16-17 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work * 1 dc around first/next ch-space, 3 tr around next ch-space, 1 tr in next tr, 3 tr around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-16 tr-groups and 15-16 dc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr in first dc, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr, skip 2 tr, * in next dc work 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr, skip 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 tr in first dc at beg of 2nd round + 2 ch = 15-16 tr-groups and 45-48 dc.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 tr in first/next tr, 4 tr around first/next ch-space, skip 1 tr + 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, skip 1 dc + 1 tr, 4 tr around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-16 tr-groups and 15-16 dc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 dc in each of the first/next 3 tr, skip 2 tr, in next dc work 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-16 tr-groups and 75-80 dc.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 dc in each of the first/next 2 dc, 5 tr around first/next ch-space, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr around next ch-space, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-16 tr-groups and 45-48 dc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr in first dc, skip 1 dc + 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 7 tr, skip 2 tr + 1 dc, * in next dc work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 tr + 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7 tr, skip 1 dc + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish round with 1 tr in first dc at beg of 6th round + 3 ch = 15-16 tr-groups and 105-112 dc.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 tr in first/next tr, 6 tr around first/next ch-space, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, skip 2 dc, 6 tr around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-16 tr-groups and 45-48 dc.
ROUND 9: Work * 1 dc in each of the first/next 5 tr, skip 2 tr + 1 dc, in next dc work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, skip 1 dc + 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-16 tr-groups and 135-144 dc. Fasten off.

Diagram

= ch
= dc in st
= dc around ch-space
= tr in st
= tr around ch-space
= dtr in tr
= tr worked in next dc (= i.e. in same dc as the next 2 tr)
= finish round with 1 sl st in first ch
= replace first dc at beg of round with 1 ch Finish round with 1 sl st in first ch
= replace first tr at beg of round with 3 ch Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch
= last round before brim, round has already been worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Eb 23.07.2019 - 09:49:

Bonjour! Je suis désolée mais même après avoir parcouru toutes les questions-réponses, je n'arrive toujours pas à interpréter le passage de A1 à A2, et surtout lire A2. Après le cercle du début, 1bride 1 augmentation (A1), puis une coulée 3 en l'air et...une bride...dans la m.coulée? Puis une bride pour finir A2 et on reprend A1? Désolée, je ne comprends pas et pourtant je ne suis pas debutante...Merci bcp de votre aide! EB.

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 09:43:

Bonjour Eb, A.2 montre simplement comment crocheter le début et la fin des tours, soit par ex au 1er tour, on crochète simplement A.1 et à la fin du 1er tour, on crochète 1 mc dans la ml (= A.2), au 2ème tour, on crochète 1 ml (= A.2), on répète A.1 et on termine par A.2 = 1 mc dans la 1ère ml. Et ainsi de suite. Vous trouverez ici plus d'informations sur les diagrammes. Bon crochet!

Eb 18.07.2019 - 16:23:

Bjr! J'ai réalisé plusieurs chapeaux dans ce genre et malheureusement aucun n'a le rendu des photos malgré le respect des fils. J'ai peur de ne pas réussir à avoir le côté ondulé de celui-ci non plus... Y aurait-il une raison pour laquelle je n'arrive pas à avoir le rendu des photos de vos chapeaux ? Merci de votre aide. Cordialement, Eb.

DROPS Design 19.07.2019 kl. 07:27:

Bonjour Eb, avez-vous également la bonne tension? pour ce modèle, on doit avoir 22 brides x 11 rangs = 10 x 10 cm, si vous crochetez plus souplement,vous n'aurez pas le même résultat, il faut adapter la taille du crochet si besoin. Vous pouvez également amidonner légèrement le chapeau à la fin. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous assister si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

Camilla Von Sparr 23.06.2019 - 14:19:

Jag har upptäckt mitt tankefel och nu blir det rätt! 👍

Camilla Von Sparr 23.06.2019 - 11:11:

Hejsan. Jag undrar om det inte är fel i början på mönstret. På första varvet ska man ha 12 stolpar runt ringen, nästa varv två stolpar i varje stolpe vilket skulle bli 24 stolpar. I mönstret står det att man har 22 stolpar efter varv 2! Är det jag som tänker fel eller? Har räknat och dragit upp men får det inte att stämma. Sedan får jag fel antal stolpar hela vägen! Hälsningar Camilla

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 08:50:

Så bra att det löste sig! Lycka till vidare.

Connie Madsen 16.06.2019 - 18:55:

Jeg har et problem med målet. Jeg hækler s/m modellen. De 16 cm er det hele cirklen eller fra midten og ud inden jeg skal tage ind til skygge ? vh Connie Madsen

Gemmy Winnen 16.06.2019 - 02:07:

Ik kom steeds veel te groot uit bij de rand, volg het patroon, en bij de rand aangekomen zit ik al ver over de aangegeven 17 cm. Zijn dit wel de juiste steken? Ik haak met 3 mm haaknaald. Of moeten het halve stokjes zijn of zo? Al 4 keer alles uitgehaald, maar het klopt gewoon niet. Vriendelijke groet...

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 14:30:

Dag Gemmy,

Dat is inderdaad vervelend. Heb je de stekenverhouding gecontroleerd en heb je een proeflapje gehaakt? Misschien is het nodig dat je een kleinere haaknaald gebruikt.

Connie Madsen 02.06.2019 - 20:40:

Jeg ved ikke hvad st står for i opskriften, har søgt på det uden held. Håber i kan fortælle mig det. Mvh Connie Madsen

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 08:04:

Hei Connie. st er forkortelse for stav, lm er kort for luftmaske, km er kort for kjedemaske, fm er kort for fastmaske. God fornøyelse

Sabrina B 11.02.2019 - 19:23:

I honestly had some issues understanding this pattern. I was thinking that perhaps others may have the same issues. I wanted to share. The hook 3.00mm is too big if you're using I love this cotton. The 6 1/4" is from the top down. I'm using a 2.5 mm with I love this cotton and the hat is larger than the written pattern s/m. The yarn is medium 4, 3.5 oz. 180/165 yd/meter. I'm going to begin again using the same yarn, smaller hook.

DROPS Design 12.02.2019 kl. 09:44:

Dear Sabrina, this hat is worked with DROPS Muskat, which is approx. 109 yds/1.8 oz/50 g - see shadecard here, ie somewhat thicker than the yarn you are using. you'll find here the DROPS stores shipping in USA. Happy crocheting!

DURIEZ Sylviane 20.08.2018 - 18:03:

Bonjour, Je suis arrivée à la 1ere rangée de la bordure. Dans le diagramme, il est indiqué 2ml, 1 DB, 2 ml,1 B, 2ml, 1DB. Dans la vidéo on nous démontre 3 DB, ensuite si je comprends bien il faut continuer 6 B plus loin. Merci pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 20.08.2018 kl. 21:40:

Bonsoir Mme Duriez, c'est une erreur dans la vidéo, vous devez avoir, comme dans le diagramme et les explications: 1 DB, 2 ml, 1B, 2 ml, 1 DB. Merci. Bon crochet!

Shirley Griffin 26.07.2018 - 12:43:

What do you use to keep the brim from being too floppy?

DROPS Design 26.07.2018 kl. 13:50:

Dear Mrs Griffin, make sure that your tension is matching the pattern, ie 22 sts = 10 cm in width - should the brim be somewhat floppy you can use some starch to make it "harder". Happy crocheting!

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