DROPS / 166 / 11

Sigrid Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with false raglan, vent and textured pattern in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-020
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour no 10, fog

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 5 mm – for rib.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Round (blue), NO 612: 6 pieces in all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YOs twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. NOTE: Work the inc sts gradually in diagram A.4.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sts as follows: All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after A.3: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows before A.3: Work until 2 sts before A.3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.
SIZE M: 25, 33, 42, 50, 59 and 67 cm.
SIZE L: 27, 35, 44, 52, 61 and 69 cm.
SIZE XL: 28, 37, 45, 54, 62 and 71 cm.
SIZE XXL: 28, 37, 46, 55, 64 and 73 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 30, 39, 48, 57, 66 and 75 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 95-98-101-107-113-116 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work rib as follows: A.1 (= 8 sts), K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain on row, A.2 (= 8 sts). Continue like this back and forth until piece measures 4 cm. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows: A.1, stocking st over the next 79-82-85-91-97-100 sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-14-15-17-21-20 sts evenly, A.2 = 80-84-86-90-92-96 sts on needle in total. Continue in stocking st, work A.1 and A.2 in each side as before until piece measures 22 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION At the end of the next 2 rows cast on 2 new sts (marks vent) = 84-88-90-94-96-100 sts. Now work as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.3 (= 9 sts) stocking st until A.2, work A.3 over A.2 and next to last st and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 26-24-24-23-23-23 cm, beg displacement of A.3 towards mid back. Work 1 edge st in garter st, inc 1 st - READ INCREASE TIP, A.3, dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP, stocking st until 2 sts remain before A.3, dec 1 st, A.3, inc 1 st, 1 edge st in garter st. Repeat displacement of A.3 every 4th row 17-19-20-21-22-24 more times. NOTE: Inc is always inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of the next 2 rows for armholes = 86-90-92-96-98-102 sts. Now continue pattern inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 st in stocking st in each side. Work the 82-86-88-92-94-98 middle sts in pattern as before. When piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm, cast off the middle 24-24-24-26-26-26 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, cast off 1 st = 30-32-33-34-35-37 sts remain on each shoulder. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 55-55-58-61-64-64 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work rib as follows: A.5 (= band), K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain, A.2. Continue like this back and forth until piece measures 4 cm. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows: A.5 (= 7 sts), stocking st until 8 sts remain, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-6-8-9-11-9 sts evenly over these sts, A.2 = 47-49-50-52-53-55 sts. Continue in stocking st, work A.5 over band and A.2 in the side as before until piece measures 22 cm. Now cast on 2 new sts in the side (= marks vent) = 49-51-52-54-55-57 sts. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Now work A.3 over A.2 and next to last st on needle and work 1 edge st in garter st in the side. When piece measures 26-24-24-23-23-23 cm, beg displacement of A.3 towards mid front. Dec 1 st before A.3 and inc 1 st before last st on needle. Repeat displacement of A.3 every 4th row 17-19-20-21-22-24 more times. NOTE: Inc is always inside 1 edge st in garter st in the side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from RS for armhole = 50-52-53-55-56-58 sts. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st and 1 st in stocking st in the side. When piece measures 64-66-68-69-71-73 cm, slip the first 14-14-14-15-15-15 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Then cast off sts on every row from neck as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time = 30-32-33-34-35-37 sts remain for shoulder. Work edge st towards neck in garter st. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. work as follows on first row: A.1, K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, A.6 (= band). When piece measures 22 cm, cast on 2 new sts in the side (marks vent). Now work A.3 over the 2nd st on row and A.1. When piece measures 26-24-24-23-23-23 cm, beg displacement of A.3 towards mid front. Inc 1 st after 1 edge st in garter st in the side and dec 1 st after A.3. Continue displacement the same way as on right front piece AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st for armhole and dec for neck. - adjust according to right front piece. When piece measures 64-66-68-69-74-73 cm, slip the first 14-14-14-15-15-15 sts seen from WS on a stitch holder for neck. Then cast off sts on every row from neck as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time = 30-32-33-34-35-37 sts. Work edge st towards neck in garter st. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
Work back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 39-41-43-43-43-45 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, K 1, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and continue pattern as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work last st in A.4, repeat A.4 until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Work the inc sts in pattern A.4: Repeat inc every approx. 5½-4½-4½-3½-3-3 cm 6-7-7-9-11-11 more times = 53-57-59-63-67-69 sts. When sleeve measures 46 cm in all sizes, work a sleeve cap with short rows as follows from RS: Work until 8-9-9-10-11-12 sts remain, turn and work until 8-9-9-10-11-12 sts remain, turn and work until 17-19-19-21-22-23 sts remain, turn and work until 17-19-19-21-22-23 sts remain. Turn and work all sts on needle, turn and work over all sts. Cast off with K from RS. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew sleeves to body inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew underarm seams and side seams in one inside 1 edge st in garter st but leave 22 cm for vent at the bottom of body. Sew the buttons on to left band.

NECK EDGE:
Beg from RS on right front piece and pick up approx. 120-130 sts (incl sts on stitch holders the front). K 1 round from WS while adjusting no of sts to 90-90-90-96-96-96 sts - but not over band sts, work these as before. Now work rib (K 1/P 2) inside band sts in each side, finish with K 1 before last band. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.01.2016
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:... AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-6-8-9-11-9 sts evenly over these sts, A.2 = 47-49-50-52-53-55 sts. Continue in stocking st, work A.5 over band and A.2 in the side as before until piece measures 22 cm. Now cast on 2 new sts in the side (= marks vent) = 49-51-52-54-55-57 sts.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

Shirley Ray 11.05.2020 - 19:31:

I have been knitting for more than 70 years, and I have never seen a pattern as difficult to understand as this one. And with so many questions, none of which Americans can understand. Is there anyone on thisl ist who has completed this sweater without problems or confusion?

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 10:11:

Dear Mrs Ray, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Velia 07.07.2019 - 17:57:

Me quedo muy lindo el suéter las explicaciones son excelentes agradezco mucho la ayuda. Y aclaró que no es la primera vez que hago un trabajo bajo la dirección de ustedes gracias

Eva Gustavson 06.07.2019 - 11:24:

Ska denna verkligen stickas i rätstickning alla varv : är det inte slätstickning ??? Instruktioner RÄTST (stickas fram och tillbaka): Maskorna stickas räta på alla varv.

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 08:54:

Hej. Det är bara en förklaring på hur man stickar rätstickning som vi har längst upp på mönstret. Hela koftan stickas inte i rätstickning (bara t.ex kantm, som det står i mönstret). Lycka till!

Kitty Neijssel 05.05.2019 - 22:20:

Sorry, ik heb een paar keer een vergissing gemaakt met de wijdtematen van het vest. Bij XXXL staat onder de patroontekening 60 cm. De wijdte van het vest wordt dan 120 cm. En dat is voor XXXL toch echt te krap. Bovendien is op de foto duidelijk te zien dat het vest een behoorlijke overwijdte heeft. Ik zie daar geen vertekening in. Ik heb voor de boeken van Stella Ruhe over Nederlandse visserstruien 5 truien gebreid. Dus ik ben geen beginneling op "breigebied".

Kitty Neijssel 05.05.2019 - 12:44:

Aanvulling op mijn vraag. Ik brei voor de zekerheid maat XXXL, heb de rug bijna klaar maar het bevalt me echt niet. Ik heb precies de juiste stekenverhouding. Daar let ik altijd goed op. Het vest geeft op deze manier niet voldoende overwijdte, ondanks de lange splitten. Kunt u mij uitleggen hoe dit zit?

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 16:13:

Dag Kitty,

Met de aangegeven stekenverhouding, zou je een vest moeten krijgen met de maten zoals die aangegeven zijn in de tekening onderaan het patroon. Het beeld op de foto kan altijd wat vertekend zijn, dus je moet kijken naar de maten in de schematekening.

Kitty Neijssel 05.05.2019 - 12:08:

Allereerst wil ik zeggen dat ik een enorme fan ben van Drops, zowel de garens als de patronen. Ik heb echter bij dit patroon een vraag. Ik heb maat 46/48. Meestal brei ik de XXL variant maar bij dit patroon heb ik mijn bedenkingen wat betreft de maten bij de patroontekening. Op de foto is te zien dat het vest een ruime overwijdte heeft. Bij de patroontekening staat bij XXL een wijdte van 58 cm, d.w.z. dat het vest 116 cm wijd wordt. Ik ben XXXL aan het breien maar dit wordt geen vest voor mij!

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 16:14:

Dag Kitty,

Zie mijn antwoord hierboven op je andere vraag. Hopelijk kun je nu verder.

Vania 26.07.2018 - 02:51:

Hi jacket coming along nicely ☺️I was curious why for left front piece there is no decrease after you knit 8 3/4 length and there is a decrease evenly on right side?

DROPS Design 26.07.2018 kl. 10:12:

Dear Vania, when piece measures 8 3/4" you cast on 2 new sts on each side on back piece and only on one side (towards back piece) on each front piece. I may misunderstand your meaning seing no decrease at 8 3/4". Happy knitting!

V Wengel 06.07.2018 - 03:24:

When it says bind off 3 st one time, 2 st one time and 1 stitch 1 time, do you bind off 3 at the beginning of the RS after I slipped the stitches on holder then at the beginning of the ws row bind off 2 one time then on RS row bind off 1 st 1 time and then repeat until there are 30stitcnes?

DROPS Design 06.07.2018 kl. 08:27:

Deear Mrs Wengel, these sts are bound off for neck: work 1 row from RS (right front piece) slipping the first 14 sts on a st holder, then work row to the end, turn and work row from WS. At the beg of next row from RS bind off 3 sts, work row to the end, turn and work next row from WS. At the beg of next row from RS bind off 2 sts, and so on. i.e. you will bind off the sts for neck at the beg of each row from RS (towards neck) on right front piece (= at the beg of each row from WS for the left front piece). Happy knitting!

V Wengel 04.07.2018 - 20:23:

I’m finishing up the right front piece. I’m on RS. Do I slip the14 st into my holder or do I knit the 14 in pattern then put them on a holder? Thank you 🌷

DROPS Design 05.07.2018 kl. 07:34:

Dear Mrs Wengel, to avoid cutting the yarn, work these 14 sts first at the beg of the round and slip them on a st holder, then continue row as before. Happy knitting!

Vania 13.06.2018 - 16:35:

On right front piece, I did first row perfect, when doing ribbing on wrong side do I start with p1, *k2p1* in order for the ribbing to come out proper? Thank you

DROPS Design 14.06.2018 kl. 08:20:

Dear Vania, read diagram from the left towards the right from RS and work ribbing K over K and P over P, ie, the P2/K1 from RS will be worked P1/K2 from RS. Happy knitting!

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