DROPS / 162 / 2

Bohemian Blues by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho in "Paris". One-size

Tags: lace, ponchos, square,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-539
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
450 g colour no 16, white
150 g colour no 29, light ice blue
150 g colour no 30, grey blue
50 g colour no 02, light turquoise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 4 tr-groups in width x 7 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm. A square measures approx. 38 x 38 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
STRIPES SQUARE:
ROUND 1: white
ROUND 2: light turquoise
ROUND 3-4: light ice blue
ROUND 5-8: white
ROUND 9-10: grey blue
ROUND 11-12: light ice blue
ROUND 13-14: white
ROUND 15-16: grey blue

STRIPES-EDGE:
2 rounds white, 1 round light ice blue, 1 round grey blue, 1 round light turquoise, 1 round light ice blue (= 6 rounds in total).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

YARN CHANGE TIP:
On the 2 squares worked in stripes it might be wise to finish round entire with colour from last stripe, cut the yarn and beg new round with new colour.
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PONCHO:
Work 4 large squares as explained below. Then work squares tog into a poncho. Finish by working a neck edge and a border along bottom edge before fastening fringes at the bottom around the entire poncho.

Work 2 squares in white (= square A) and 2 squares in STRIPES SQUARE – see explanation above (= square B).

SQUARE 1:
Work 4 ch on hook size 5 mm with white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: 5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * 1 tr in ch-ring, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 8 tr with 2 ch between each).
ROUND 2: 6 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), work 1 tr in 3rd ch worked, * work 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 8 tr with a space between each).
ROUND 3: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), work 1 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr in same st (= corner), * 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, in next tr work 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: Work sl st to 2nd dtr in corner, 1 ch, 1 dc between the middle 2 dtr in corner, 3 dc in space, * 1 dc between the next 2 dtr, 3 dc in space, 1 dc in next tr, 3 dc in space, 1 dc between the first 2 dtr in corner, 3 dc in space, 1 dc between the next 2 dtr, 2 ch, 1 dc between the same 2 dtr, 3 dc in space *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 1 dc between the next 2 dtr, 3 dc in next space, 1 dc in next tr, 3 dc in next space, 1 dc between the first 2 dtr, 3 dc in space and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st in space in corner, 6 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), 1 tr in same space, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr in ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: 1 sl st in ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-space, * work 3 tr in every ch-space until corner, work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, work 3 tr in every ch-space until corner and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 7: Work sl sts until ch-space in corner, 4 ch (= 1 dtr), work 1 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr in same ch-space (= corner), ** (2 ch, skip 1 tr-group, 1 tr before next tr-group = between 2 tr-groups), repeat from (-) 6 times in total, 2 ch, 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr in ch-space in corner **, repeat from **-** 3 times in total, repeat from (-) 6 times in total and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until the middle of the 2 dtr in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), 1 dc between the same middle dtr in corner, * 3 dc in space, 1 dc between the next 2 dtr, then work 3 dc in every ch-space until dtr in corner, 1 dc between the first 2 dtr, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc between the middle 2 dtr in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 3 dc in space, 1 dc between the next 2 dtr, then work 3 dc in every ch-space until dtr in corner, 1 dc between the first 2 dtr, 3 dc in ch-space and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 9: Work sl st in ch-space in corner, 6 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), 1 tr in same ch-space, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next st, (3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 htr in next st), repeat from (-) 6 times in total, 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr in ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr in corner).
ROUND 10: 1 sl st in ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-space, * work 3 tr in each of the first 3 ch-space, 1 ch, 3 tr in each of the next 3 ch-spaces, 1 ch, 3 tr in each of the next 3 ch-spaces, in corner work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire, but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in corner).
ROUND 11: Work sl st until ch-space in corner, 4 ch (= 1 dtr), work 1 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr in same ch-space (= corner), * 2 ch, skip 2 tr-groups, 1 dtr before next tr-group, 2 ch, skip 2 tr-groups, in ch before next tr-group work 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr, skip 1 tr-group, 1 dtr in the middle tr in next tr-group, skip 1 tr-group, in ch before next tr-groups work 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr, 2 ch, skip 2 tr-groups, 1 dtr before next tr-group, 2 ch, in ch-space in corner work 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr + 3 ch + 2 dtr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round (instead of dtr-groups in corner).
ROUND 12: Work sl sts until the middle of the 2 dtr in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), 1 dc between the same middle dtr in corner, then work: * 3 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc between next 2 dtr, 3 dc around next two ch-spaces, 1 dc between next 2 dtr, 3 dc around ch-space, 1 dc between next 2 dtr, 3 dc around ch-space
, 1 dc in next 2 dtr, skip next dtr, 1 dc in next 2 dtr, 3 dc around ch-space, 1 dc between next 2 dtr, 3 dc around ch-space, 1 dc between next 2 dtr,
3 dc around next two ch-spaces until first dtr in corner, 1 dc between the first 2 dtr, 3 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc between the middle 2 dtr in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total. Finish with 1 dc between the first 2 dtr, 3 dc around ch-space and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 13: Work sl st in ch-space in corner, 7 ch (= 1 dtr + 3 ch), 1 dtr in same ch-space, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 tr in next st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 tr in next st, 2 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 htr in next st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 tr in next st, 3 ch, skip 3 dc and work 1 dtr + 3 ch + 1 dtr in ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round (instead of 1 dtr + 3 ch + 1 dtr in ch-space in corner).
ROUND 14: 1 sl st in ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-space, * work 3 tr in each of the first 6 ch-spaces, 1 tr in 2-ch-space, 1 tr in tr, 1 tr in 2-ch-space, work 3 tr in each of the next 6 ch-spaces, in corner work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in corner).
ROUND 15: 1 sl st in ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-space, * (2 ch, 1 tr before next tr-group), repeat from (-) until corner, 2 ch, in ch-space in corner work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of tr-group in corner).
ROUND 16: 1 sl st in ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-space, * work 3 tr in every ch-space until corner, work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, work 3 tr in every ch-space until corner and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
The square is finished. Fasten off.

NOTE: If you want a bigger poncho repeat ROUND 15-16 until desired measurements.

ASSEMBLY:
Place squares as shown on chart so that a coloured square is mid front and mid back and a white square in each side.
Place 2 squares on top of each other WS against WS, and crochet them tog with white as follows: ** Work 1 dc in ch-space in corner on 1st square, 1 ch, 1 dc in ch-space in corner on 2nd square, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space on 1st square, 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space on 2nd square *, repeat from *-* until next corner, finish with 3 ch for transition to next square **, repeat from **-**.

NECK EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the neck on hook size 5 mm as follows: Beg with light turquoise and work first round in A.2 but adjust in the corner mid front and mid back so that neck edge lies nicely mid front. Switch to light ice blue and work 2nd round of A.2 the same way. Fasten off.

EDGE AROUND THE BOTTOM OF PONCHO:
Work a finishing edge around the bottom of poncho on hook size 5 mm as follows: Beg with white and work pattern according to A.2 AT THE SAME TIME work STRIPES-EDGE - see explanation above. NOTE: To continue the edge into a nice tip as on squares it is important to continue inc mid front and mid back, i.e. in the middle ch-space mid front and mid back work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr on every round.
When edge is done, fasten off.

FRINGES:
1 fringe = 6 threads of approx. 40 cm. Fold the threads double, thread the loop through the opening between 2 tr-groups and pull the yarn ends through the loop (so that 12 strands hang down in every fringe). Beg with 1 fringe in ch-space in the tip mid front and mid back, then insert fringes along the diagonal edge on poncho between every other tr-group.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.03.2015
New yarnamount in color 16, white and 02 light turquoise:

DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
450 g colour no 16, white
50 g colour no 02, light turquoise
Updated online: 05.09.2016
Corrections made in round 4 and 12.
Updated online: 30.09.2016
Correction in round 5.

Diagram

= 1 ch
= 1 sl st
= 1 dc in st
= 1 dc in space
= 1 dc between 2 dtr
= 1 htr in st
= 1 tr in st
= 1 tr in space
= 1 tr between 2 tr-groups
= dtr in st
= 1 dtr in space
= 1 dtr between 2 tr-groups



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Dorina Stähle 05.05.2020 - 19:17:

Wie drücke ich die Anleitungen aus?wenn ich auf das "Drucker"Zeichen geh wird nicht gedruckt.....

DROPS Design 06.05.2020 kl. 10:16:

Liebe Frau Stähle, wenn Sie auf das "Drucker" Zeichen klicken, wählen Sie dann "Anleitung" - prüfen Sie mal die Drucker-Einstellungen, wir könnten diese Anleitung gerade erfolgreich drucken - Sie können auch mal versuchen den Cache zu leeren, oder mit einem anderen Browser zu versuchen, die Update von Browser mal schauen, etc... Die Anleitung sollte auf jeden Fall drucken. Sollten Sie nicht drucken können, sagen Sie uns bitte welches Material Sie benutzen (Betriebssytem, Browser, Version etc..). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Lynn 11.01.2019 - 18:01:

Dear Drops, I love your yarns, however I am having trouble with this pattern. Would it be possible to get a tutorial video on the center portion of this pattern 162- 2? I have twin nieces and one fell in love with this poncho and other my other niece fell in love with "A Wistful Dream". I would love to make these for my nieces. Thank You for your assistance.

DROPS Design 12.01.2019 kl. 15:37:

Dear Lynn, you can find the tutorial videos related to this pattern right below the picture of the pice, and there od one on how to start the piece. Happy crafting!

Kathy 11.11.2018 - 16:35:

I have been reading crochet pattern directions for 50 years and this is the WORST SET OF WRITTEN DIRECTIONS I have ever seen!. You need to give e VALID CORRECT DIRECTIONS not diagrams no one can understand. I finally got rows 1-6 looking OK. Rows 7-16 -- I made up myself based on stitches used in first 6 rows.

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 10:58:

Dear Kathy, we are sorry to hear you have troubles to understand diagrams - each symbol is matching a stitch as explained under diagram key. Work the first 3 rounds in diagram starting with the 3 ch in the middle of 1st round and readh towards the left in the round. Then repeat the diagram as shown to make a square (A.1) - for any further individual assistance reading diagrams, please contact the store where you bought the yarn - even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Karen 23.07.2018 - 02:14:

You have very beautiful items. That being said, after trying a few I now dont even look if it is a drops pattern.

Heather 29.08.2017 - 11:54:

After frogging the first three rounds with a lot of difficulty, I cannot fathom out round 4! I have read the comments above and the general feeling is that it is a VERY DIFFICULT pattern! WHY is there no video instruction for this pattern? I think it is very much needed.

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 12:40:

Dear Heather, we will add your wish on our todolist, but remember you can always contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance when working on our patterns. Happy crocheting!

Rita Rockhold 22.04.2017 - 19:41:

Round 13 is my nemesis!!!! But after making this once and nearly growling at someone who requested another, I think I may have successfully fugded it!!!

Judy 27.03.2017 - 10:04:

Could you please tell me what the dimensions are for each square. I am a size XL so need it larger probably

DROPS Design 27.03.2017 kl. 10:06:

Dear Judy, a square measures approx. 38x38 cm (see under tab "Materials"). Happy crocheting!

Cori Lopez 03.10.2016 - 18:55:

I did this, but u need to make up ur own rows for 90 percent. This is only really an idea, definitely not a pattern to follow. Please don't try and don't erase my comment so others r warned. Thx

Cori Lopez 29.09.2016 - 00:05:

Row 5...skip 3 in between all, not 2. Don't use diagram until 12 only written, after 11 use diagram only. That will do it if you are advanced enough to look over the other minor mistakes. Thought I'd help until it's all corrected☺️

Cori Lopez 26.09.2016 - 03:53:

Row 12 is wrong. I see it was brought to your attention, but it's still not fixed. Please fix and be professional. Thx

DROPS Design 28.09.2016 kl. 09:33:

Dear Mrs Lopez, your feedback has been forwarded to our Team and pattern will be checked again, thank you in advance for your patience.

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