DROPS / 157 / 23

Silver Stag by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke, reindeer pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Silver Stag / DROPS 157-23 - Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke, reindeer pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Silver Stag / DROPS 157-23 - Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke, reindeer pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no u-739
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour no 21, medium grey
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides and sleeves):
Dec before marker and 1 st K as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after marker and 1 st K as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides):
Inc 4 sts in total on row.
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stocking st, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with medium grey. Work rib P 2/K 2 until piece measures 3 cm. Now switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-4-8-20-24-28 sts evenly = 88-96-104-120-128-136 sts. Now work as follows: A.1 (= 8 sts) 11-12-13-15-16-17 times in width. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 264-288-312-360-384-408 sts on round. Continue with 3-5-9-5-7-11 rounds with medium grey. NOTE: In size S, L, XL, XXXL stop 24 sts (= 1 repetition) before last round is worked. This is now beg of the next rounds. Pattern is now correctly placed after sts are divided for sleeves and body.
Work next round as follows: Work the first 37-40-46-52-58-64 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 58-64-64-76-76-76 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these 10 sts, work the next 74-80-92-104-116-128 sts (= front piece), slip the next 58-64-64-76-76-76 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these 10 sts, work the remaining 37-40-46-52-58-64 sts (= half back piece).

There are now 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts for body. Now work A.2 (= 12 sts) over all sts on round. Continue like this until A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically. Now work piece in stocking st with medium grey. On next round dec 1 st on each side of each marker in the sides - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2 cm 2 more times = 156-168-192-216-240-264 sts. When piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm from marker under sleeves, inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side of piece – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 2 cm 2 more times = 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, switch to circular needle size 3 mm and inc 20-24-24-28-28-32 sts evenly = 188-204-228-256-280-308 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When rib has been worked for 4 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

First work pattern, then continue sleeve in medium grey. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. There are now 58-64-64-76-76-76 sts for sleeve. Work 1 row in stocking st. Then cast on 10 sts under sleeve = 68-74-74-86-86-86 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of these new sts. Then work the sleeve in the round. Now work A.2. NOTE: Adjust so that the 2 middle sts in diagram (see arrow) are the 2 middle sts on sleeve. When A.2 has been worked, continue with A.3. NOTE: Adjust pattern so that the middle st in diagram (see arrow) is one of the 2 middle sts on sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME beg dec under sleeve - remember DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3-2½-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm 9-12-12-12-12-12 more times = 48-48-48-60-60-60 sts. When sleeve measures 38 cm, work A.4. NOTE: Adjust so that the middle st in diagram (see arrow) is one of the 2 middle sts on sleeve. When A.4 has been worked vertically, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and inc 4-8-8-0-4-4 sts evenly = 52-56-56-60-64-64 sts. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.11.2016
YOKE:... When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 264-288-312-360-384-408 sts on round. Continue with 3-5-9-5-7-11 rounds with medium grey...


symbols = medium grey
symbols = off white
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts (K YO twisted on next round)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

country flag LAUNAY 12.10.2021 - 18:42:

Bonjour 1) Pour les manches, si on utilise les aiguilles doubles pointes, on tricote aussi en rond, n'est-ce-pas ? Où doit-on monter les 10m (sous la manche) ? A la fin d'une aiguille ? Au milieu des 64m reprises ? 2) Pour les diminutions, c'est bien 1 de chaque côté du marqueur ? D'avance, merci pour vos réponses.

user icon DROPS Design 13.10.2021 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Mme Launay, les manches se tricotent effectivement en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes, vous montez les 10 mailles du même côté que vous avez monté les 10 mailles lors de la division de l'empiècement, dans cette leçon, on montre à partir de la photo 11) comment on va monter les mailles pour le dessous de la manche. Vous mettez ensuite un marqueur au milieu de ces 10 mailles et diminuez 1 m avant le marqueur à la fin du tour + 1 m après le marqueur au début du tour (= 2 m à chaque fois). Bon tricot!

country flag Karina 11.10.2021 - 16:31:

Beklager, min fejl, at jeg ikke var mere præcis. Jeg skal til mønsterstrik på første ærme. Der står oplyst, at de to masker i midten, skal være midt på ærmet. Hvordan starter jeg på mønsteret, da der er 12 masker i mønsteret og der er 74 masker på ærmet.

country flag Karina 10.10.2021 - 21:05:

Hejsa. Hvordan skal jeg få mønsteret til at passe med 74 masker, og et mønster på 12? På forhånd tak 🙂

user icon DROPS Design 11.10.2021 kl. 16:22:

Hei Karina. For at vi skal kunne hjelpe deg er det fint om du opplyser hvor i oppskriften du er, bærestykket, bolen eller erme? Og hvilken str. du strikker. Husk å avpass mønstret slik det står forklart i oppskriften (om det gjelder erme) mvh DROPS Design

country flag Lis Snedevig Steenberg 03.09.2021 - 11:55:

Angående design u-739 (l57-23) og efter ribstrikning til krave og udtagning til xxl skal jeg fortsætte med A1. Hvad med A2-A3-A4?? Venligst Lis Steenberg

user icon DROPS Design 13.09.2021 kl. 11:06:

Hei Lis. Når bærestykket er ferdig/A.1 er strikket 1 gang i høyden (og 16 ganger i bredden), og du har 252 masker på pinnen skal det så strikkes ryg&forstk. Og nå skal A.2 strikkes. A.2 strikkes også når du skal strikke ermene sammen med diagram A.3 og A.4. mvh DROPS design

country flag Kathrin 02.07.2021 - 17:58:

Kann ich diesen wunderschönen Pulli auch mit der Brushed Alpaca Silk stricken? Falls es möglich ist, müsste ich dann Doppelfädig stricken?

user icon DROPS Design 05.07.2021 kl. 07:22:

Liebe Kathrin, dieses Modell wird mit Karisma gestrickt, dh ein Garn der Garngruppe B, Brushed Alpaca Silk ist aber ein Garn der Garngruppe C und wird hier keine Alternative sein - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Jessica 20.01.2021 - 12:31:

Hello, Quick question about sleeves. Am I decreasing at the same time as working A2, or do I work A2 and then start to decrease at same time as A3? Thanks!

user icon DROPS Design 20.01.2021 kl. 14:38:

Dear Jessica, work A.2 and start to decrease when working A.3. Happpy knitting!

country flag Maria Del Mar 12.12.2020 - 17:41:

En las explicaciones del patrón pone que:"en las tallas S, L, XL, XXL, para el trabajo cuando queden 24 puntos(=1 repetición) antes de la última vuelta" No entiendo muy bien cómo lo tengo que tejer con esa explicación

user icon DROPS Design 13.12.2020 kl. 11:50:

Hola Maria Del Mar, para las tallas mencionadas el inicio de la vuelta nueva se desplaza 24 puntos hacia atrás desde el final de la vuelta que estamos trabajando. Esto se necesita para cuadrar bien el dibujo cuando separemos la labor para las mangas y el cuerpo.

country flag Berlanger Melinda 14.11.2020 - 13:07:

Bonjour Donc il y aura 24 mailles non tricotée. Ça ne va pas faire un décalage ? Merci Mélinda

user icon DROPS Design 16.11.2020 kl. 07:54:

Bonjour Mme Berlanger, vous continuez le diagramme comme avant, mais le tour suivant doit commencer à ce niveau là pour que le motif soit centré lors de la division. Bon tricot!

country flag Berlanger 06.11.2020 - 14:38:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas très bien quand on a tricoté A1 1x, il faut tricoter 9 tours en Jersey, il faut arrêter 24 m. Comment faire ????? On tricoté pas les mailles ? , on doit déplacer l'anneau marqueur ? Les 9 tours se tricotent avant ou après ? J'avoue je suis bloqué Merci de votre aide À vous lire Excellente journée

user icon DROPS Design 06.11.2020 kl. 15:58:

Bonjour Mme Berlanger, à la fin du 9ème tour, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 24 mailles avant la dernière maille des tours précédent, autrement dit 1 motif complet avant la fin du tour. Décalez votre marqueur, les tours commencent désormais ici. Vous divisez maintenant l'ouvrage à partir dici (= les 46 premières mailles sont à tricoter pour le dos etc...). Bon tricot!

country flag Janine Audebert 25.10.2020 - 07:59:

Bonjour. Pour commencer A1, faut il faire les augmentations à chaque motif ? ( cela fait 2x13) ou uniquement sur les côtés ? Où faut il faire les augmentations de côté ? Où faut il placer les marqueurs ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 08:17:

Bonjour Mme Audebert, vous devez répéter 11 à 17 fois (cf taille) A.1 en largeur; les augmentations figurent dans A.1, lorsque vous tricotez le diagramme, vous devez répéter tous les rangs comme indiqué; vous pouvez mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour vous permettre de bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque fois. Le nombre de mailles de chaque A.1 doit être le même pour chaque A.1 de chaque tour et va augmenter en fonction des jetés à faire (3ème symbole). Bon tricot!

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