DROPS / 157 / 23

Silver Stag by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke, reindeer pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-739
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour no 21, medium grey
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides and sleeves):
Dec before marker and 1 st K as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after marker and 1 st K as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides):
Inc 4 sts in total on row.
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stocking st, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with medium grey. Work rib P 2/K 2 until piece measures 3 cm. Now switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-4-8-20-24-28 sts evenly = 88-96-104-120-128-136 sts. Now work as follows: A.1 (= 8 sts) 11-12-13-15-16-17 times in width. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 264-288-312-360-384-408 sts on round. Continue with 3-5-9-5-7-11 rounds with medium grey. NOTE: In size S, L, XL, XXXL stop 24 sts (= 1 repetition) before last round is worked. This is now beg of the next rounds. Pattern is now correctly placed after sts are divided for sleeves and body.
Work next round as follows: Work the first 37-40-46-52-58-64 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 58-64-64-76-76-76 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these 10 sts, work the next 74-80-92-104-116-128 sts (= front piece), slip the next 58-64-64-76-76-76 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these 10 sts, work the remaining 37-40-46-52-58-64 sts (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are now 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts for body. Now work A.2 (= 12 sts) over all sts on round. Continue like this until A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically. Now work piece in stocking st with medium grey. On next round dec 1 st on each side of each marker in the sides - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2 cm 2 more times = 156-168-192-216-240-264 sts. When piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm from marker under sleeves, inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side of piece – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 2 cm 2 more times = 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, switch to circular needle size 3 mm and inc 20-24-24-28-28-32 sts evenly = 188-204-228-256-280-308 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When rib has been worked for 4 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVES:
First work pattern, then continue sleeve in medium grey. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. There are now 58-64-64-76-76-76 sts for sleeve. Work 1 row in stocking st. Then cast on 10 sts under sleeve = 68-74-74-86-86-86 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of these new sts. Then work the sleeve in the round. Now work A.2. NOTE: Adjust so that the 2 middle sts in diagram (see arrow) are the 2 middle sts on sleeve. When A.2 has been worked, continue with A.3. NOTE: Adjust pattern so that the middle st in diagram (see arrow) is one of the 2 middle sts on sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME beg dec under sleeve - remember DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3-2½-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm 9-12-12-12-12-12 more times = 48-48-48-60-60-60 sts. When sleeve measures 38 cm, work A.4. NOTE: Adjust so that the middle st in diagram (see arrow) is one of the 2 middle sts on sleeve. When A.4 has been worked vertically, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and inc 4-8-8-0-4-4 sts evenly = 52-56-56-60-64-64 sts. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.11.2016
YOKE:... When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 264-288-312-360-384-408 sts on round. Continue with 3-5-9-5-7-11 rounds with medium grey...

Diagram

= medium grey
= off white
= 1 YO between 2 sts (K YO twisted on next round)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Margriet 21.11.2019 - 16:51:

Is er nog een truukje om de draad achter 15 steken langs mee te nemen. Bedankt trouwens voor de mooie noorse patronen, groetjes margriet

DROPS Design 23.11.2019 kl. 16:48:

Dag Margriet,

Ja zeker dat kan. Als je het patroon breit met de draden in je linker hand kun je vrij makkelijk de draad die je niet gebruikt om de andere draad heen slaan, door de naald er afwisselend onderdoor of bovenlangs te steken tijdens het breien. Bij deze video is dat beschreven en kun je zien hoe je de draden in je linker hand kunt houden.

Charlotte Higgins 17.11.2019 - 14:29:

I am starting the sleeves. It says in YOKE: "58 [] sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker []". Which leaves 10sts hanging between the sleeve and the body. In the SLEEVE: "There are now 58 [] sts for sleeve. Work 1 row in stocking st. Then cast on 10 sts under sleeve = 68 [] sts. Insert a marker []. " Does it mean to pick up the 10 sts that were cast on in the yoke step? Or cast on an additional 10st for a total of 20 new sts?

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 10:24:

Dear Mrs Higgins, at the end of yoke you cast on 10 sts over the 58 sts slipped on a thread for each sleeve, so that there are 10 sts on each side of body for under sleeve(armhole), then on sleeve you cast on 10 sts - you can also pick up 1 st in each of the 10 sts cast on on body, as you rather like to. See time code 07:00 in this video or this lesson from 9). Happy knitting!

Denise 23.09.2019 - 22:31:

Hi! Right after knitting A1 it says: "NOTE: In size S, L, XL, XXXL stop 24 sts (= 1 repetition) before last round is worked. This is now beg of the next rounds." My question is, why does it matter where the next rounds begin if the beginning shifts exactly 1 repetition? It just doesn't seem to matter at all to me? Couldn't I just leave the beginning where it is so that the rows of grey between A1 and A2 are the same troughout the whole piece? Thanks!

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 10:35:

Dear Denise, in these sizes you have to stop the last round 24 stitches before the previous beg of rounds so that the pattern will be properly placed when dividing piece for sleeves. Happy knitting!

Ann Cathrine 19.08.2019 - 14:08:

Mulig å strikke denne i XS?

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 13:06:

Hei Ann Cathrine. Denne genseren har vi dessverre ikke skrevet i størrelse XS.

Barbara 29.11.2018 - 12:17:

Mi sono accorta che i disegni A3 e A4 hanno un rapporto di 5 mentre il disegno A2 ha un rapporto di 12. Per poter avere le ripetizioni uguali, nella manica, tra il disegno della stella più grande e la greca ho preferito trasformare A3 e A4 in rapporto da 6.

Marte Torsteinsdatter Sakshaug Martiniussen 17.10.2018 - 14:29:

Hei. Strikker denne genseren og er kommet til armen. Får ikke mønstret til å stemme med maskeantallet. Skjønner at stjernen skal være midt på armen så den er grei. Men får noen masker for lite eller for mye alt etter hvordan du ser det under armen hva skal jeg jøre, stemmer ikke på noen av mønstrene som skal være øverst på ermet....

Gabri 30.07.2018 - 11:46:

Come posso adattare il modello a una bimba di 7 anni

DROPS Design 30.07.2018 kl. 13:28:

Buongiorno Gabri, con le misure della bambina e il suo campione, può adattare il modello a una bambina. Per un aiuto più personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!!

Sofie 24.06.2018 - 10:22:

Hei! Ser under at noen har spurt om dette før, men ønsker litt mer forklaring; Hvorfor skal ikke masketallet gå opp i 12 i ermene mht diagram A2?

DROPS Design 27.06.2018 kl. 09:23:

Hei Sofie. Du skal ha en hel rapport av A.2 midt oppå ermet = på motsatt side av starten/slutten av omgangen. Du må derfor ta utgangspunkt i dette når du begynner omgangen. Hvis du er usikker på hvordan du gjør dette, kan du lese mer her Hvordan plasser et diagram midt på . Masketallet på ermet er basert på størrelsen på plagget, og mønsteret må tilpasse seg dette – derfor går det ikke opp i hele rapporter. God fornøyelse

Mali 26.03.2018 - 17:09:

Hei igjen. Er starten på forhøyningen på begynnelsen av omgangen eller etter 48 masker i str m? Hvis ikke, hvor skal jeg starte på den i forhold til begynnelsen på omgang? Takk

DROPS Design 09.04.2018 kl. 11:41:

Hej igen, hvis du er bange for at placere forhøjningen rigtigt, så er det nok bedre at bare følge opskriften. Vi har desværre ikke mulighed for at skrive den om til dig.

Mali 23.03.2018 - 14:14:

Hei igjen. Er starrten på forhøyningen ( midt bak) begynnelsen på omgangen, eller etter 48 m? Takk

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