DROPS Baby / 25 / 17

Playdate by DROPS Design

Knitted baby overall with hood in garter st worked in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca. Size 0 – 4 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-095-by
Yarn group A + A
Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-200-250-250 g colour no 100, off white
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 3112, dusty pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 5-5-6-6 (6-7) pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

* 4 cm in garter st with 2 strands off white, 4 cm in garter st with 1 strand off white + 1 strand dusty pink, 4 cm in garter st with 2 strands dusty pink *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
LOOSELY cast on 38-42-46-50 (54-58) sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 strands dusty pink. K 1 row from WS, continue with rib K 2/P 2 with 1 edge st in each side. When piece measures 4 cm, K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sts evenly = 32-36-40-42 (46-50) sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work in GARTER ST – see explanation above while AT THE SAME TIME working STRIPES – see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 3-5-6-6 (8-9) rows a total of 7-7-7-9 (9-10) times = 46-50-54-60 (64-70) sts. When piece measures 15-18-21-24 (29-34) cm, cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 40-44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way. Make sure that legs have the same no of stripes.

Slip both legs on to same circular needle size 5 mm with cast off sts towards each other = 80-88-96-108 (116-128) sts. Continue to work back and forth from mid front as follows (1st row = RS and continue stripes where they ended): Work 3 ridges in garter st back and forth. At beg of the next 2 rows cast off 3 sts = 74-82-90-102 (110-122) sts remain on row. Insert 1 marker 17-19-21-24 (26-29) sts in from each side (= 40-44-48-54 (58-64) sts between markers on back piece). Continue in GARTER ST and STRIPES. When piece measures 35-42-50-57 (67-75) cm, divide piece at the 2 markers and finish front and back piece separately.

= 40-44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Continue in garter st and stripes - AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row in each side for sleeves: 3 sts 2-1-2-3 (1-2) times, 5 sts 1-1-1-1 (2-2) times, 7 sts 0-1-1-1 (2-2) times and then 6-7-7-8 (9-12) sts 1 time = 74-88-98-112 (130-148) sts on row. When piece measures 44-52-61-69 (80-89) cm, cast off the middle 16-16-18-18 (20-20) sts for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately. Work 2 rows over the 29-36-40-47 (55-64) sts in each side – LOOSELY cast off, piece measures approx. 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm.

= 17-19-21-24 (26-29) sts. Continue in garter st and stripes - AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of row towards the side for sleeve as on back piece = 34-41-46-53 (62-71) sts. When piece measures 41-49-58-65 (76-85) cm, cast off for neck at the beg of every row from neck as follows: 2 sts 2 times in all sizes and then 1 st 1-1-2-2 (3-3) times in total = 29-36-40-47 (55-64) sts remain on row for shoulder/sleeve. Continue to work until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm, LOOSELY cast off.

Work as left front piece but reversed.

Sew overarm seams with grafting/kitchener sts from RS.
Sew underarm seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew tog legs inside 1 edge st and then sew from opening mid front up to vent.

Pick up from RS inside 1 edge st approx. 46 to 90 sts along left front piece on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 strands dusty pink. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 64-72-88-96 (108-116) sts. Work next row as follows from RS (i.e. from neck and down): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this for 3½-4 cm (adjust according to vent at the bottom) and loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

Work as left but after 1½ cm dec evenly for 5-5-6-6 (6-7) buttonholes. 1 buttonhole = work 2 sts tog and make 1 YO (P 2 tog in a P-section will look more pretty). Upper buttonhole should be max. 1 cm from neck edge, and bottom hole approx. 2-3 cm from vent. Sew the buttons on to the left band. Sew bands right over left at the bottom of vent.

Pick up from RS approx. 50 to 60 sts around the neck on circular needle size 5 mm with 2 strands dusty pink (also pick up over bands). Work in garter st - AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row (= from RS) inc evenly to 72-76-80-84 (88-92) sts. (If you do not want a hood, cast off after 2 ridges in garter st.) When piece measures 19-21-23-25 (27-28) cm, cast off all sts. Place hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

Pick up from RS 32-32-36-36 (40-40) sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 2 strands dusty pink at the bottom around one sleeve. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until cuff measures 4 cm, then loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Work the same way around the edge of the other sleeve.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (67)

Hana Kubátová 12.05.2020 - 11:23:

Dobrý den - vůbec nejsem moudrá kolik koupit gramů - ten popis materiál na smetanovou vychází 1450 g a na růžovou 1850g celkem Materiál: DROPS ALPACA firmy Garnstudio 150-200-200-200-200-250-250 g, barva č. 100, smetanová 250-250-300-300-350-400 g, barva č. 3112, pudrová růžová můžete mi poradit kolk gramů na 6-9 měsíců = děkujííííííííííííííííííííííí

DROPS Design 14.05.2020 kl. 16:22:

Dobrý den, Hano, celková spotřeba jednotlivých barev příze (v g) je uvedena ve stejném pořadí, v jakém jsou uvedeny jednotlivé velikosti: pro vel. 6-9 měs se tedy budete řídit u množství příze, ale i dále v návodu u počtu ok apod. vždy 3. údajem (číslem) v pořadí. Pokud jde o materiál, potřebujete 200 g smetanové a 300 g pudrové růžové. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Michele 15.12.2019 - 09:26:

Hvordan skal ærmerne strikkes? der står vi tager masker ud til ærmerne ved rygstykke og forstykkerne, men der står ikke hvornår vi "samler" maskerne og hvordan vi derefter strikker ærmerne. Kan jeg evt. få hjælp der? Strikker selv i størrelsen 6/9måneder, og tænker man vel skal tage lidt masker ind undervejs som man strikker ærmerne, men kan ikke se hvordan dette skal gøres. På forhånd tak for hjælpe!!

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 13:54:

Hej Michele, Når du har delt arbejdet og strikker bagstykket, tager du ud til ærmer i hver side: SAMTIDIG slåes der nye m op i slutningen af hver p i hver side til ærmer: 3 m 2 gange, 5 m 1 gang, 7 m 1 gang og derefter 7 m 1 gang = 98 m på p. Du tager ud på samme måde når du kommer til forstykkerne :)

Gabriele Majonek-Fischer 10.11.2019 - 22:31:

Hallo 👋 Ich möchte den Overall in Größe 80 Stricken . Da er doppelfädig gestrickt wird , brauche ich dann 1000gramm Alpakawolle ? Es verbleibt dankend mit freundlichen Grüssen Gabriele Majonek-Fischer

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 11:39:

Liebe Frau Majonek-Fischer, in Größe 80/86 cm brauchen Sie 200 g Farbe Nr 100 + 300 g Farbe Nr 3112. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ronja 26.08.2019 - 21:39:

Miten hihat muodostuvat? Olen tehnyt takakappaleen ohjeiden mukaan ja hihat ovat vain pienet "siivet", pitääkö hiha neuloa erikseen?

DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 18:19:

Oletko tarkistanut, että neuletiheytesi on oikea leveyssuuntaan mitattuna? Hihat neulotaan yhtenä kappaleena etu- ja takakappaleiden kanssa.

Beatrice 21.08.2019 - 06:28:

Can I knit this flat on two needles?

DROPS Design 21.08.2019 kl. 08:27:

Dear Beatrice, this overall is worked flat, back and forth on needle. Happy knitting!

Lisa 14.06.2019 - 16:23:

Continue with rib K 2/P 2 with 1 edge st in each side Does this mean I knit the edge st or slip the edge sts?

DROPS Design 15.06.2019 kl. 23:41:

Dear Lisa, better way is to knit edge sts. Happy knitting!

Mette 07.06.2019 - 18:06:

Jeg har lige samlet begge ben på en rundpind. Strik 6 p retstrik frem og tilbage. I beg af de 2 næste p lukkes der 3 m af... Skal der lukkes af INDEN de 6 p eller skal jeg strikke 6 p før jeg lukker af ? Når jeg strikker 6 p og derefter lukker af blir der jo en slags trappe (zigzag) lukning i bunden hvor der skal strikkes stolpe... Hjælp !! Jeg vil så gerne videre ;)

DROPS Design 10.06.2019 kl. 14:40:

Hej Mette, Du strikker først de 6 pinde retstrik, efter dem lukkes der 3 masker af i hver side. Dur lukker kun de yderste 3 masker af i hver side én gang, det er her forkanten skal strikkes på bagefter. God fornøjelse!

Kasia 27.02.2019 - 23:51:

Dobry wieczór. zatrzymalam sie na tych nogawkach i nie rozumiem wyjasnienia jak przesc do dalszej czesci kombinezonu. prosze o pomoc. z góry dziekuje.

DROPS Design 28.02.2019 kl. 17:47:

Witaj Kasiu, ułóż nogawki poziomo na stole, otwarte oczka są na środku naprzeciwko siebie. Zacznij od nogawki, po twojej lewej ręce i zacznij wsuwać drut z żyłką od dołu do góry, następnie wsuń ten sam drut w oczka drugiej nogawki ale od góry do dołu. Dalej przerabiaj wg opisu. Na końcu robótki będziesz zszywała nogawki, a szwy będą znajdować się po wewnętrznej stronie. Powodzenia!

Sandra 18.11.2018 - 12:30:

Warum mach ich die Marker für die Trennung zu Rücken. und Vorderteil schon so früh und nicht erst beim Teilen? Muss ich, wenn ich die Beine zusammen auf die Rundnadel genommen habe, in Runden sticken oder vor und zurück? Wenn ich den "Overall-Teil" in Runden stricke, kann ich ja später keine Blende mehr aufstricken und benötige keine Knöpfe, oder? Danke...

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 08:57:

Liebe Sandra, für Overall stricken sie beide Beine HIn- und Zurück (die Reihen beginnen an der vorderen Mitte) - nach 3 Krausrippen werden Sie die 3 ersten Maschen am Anfang der beiden Reihen abketten (= für die Blende) - die Markierungen sind nur für die Teilung, die können Sie bei den gewünschten Höhe einsezten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ulla Ladefoged 26.09.2018 - 21:32:

Jeg forstår ikke, hvad der skal ske med benene, når alle masker fra begge ben er sat på samme rundpind. Strikkes de to ben så sammen - altså der strikkes frem og tilbage over alle 90 m? Indtil arbejdet måler 50 cm? Det giver ikke mening for mig, at der ikke meget tidligere skal deles til ryg og forstykke. Jeg kan evt. sende et foto, måske forklarer jeg det ikke tydligt nok Med venlig hilsen Ulla Ladefoged

DROPS Design 28.09.2018 kl. 14:52:

Hej Ulla, i størrelse 6/9 måneder, skal benene måle 21 cm, der strikkes nu frem og tilbage fra midt foran til arb måler 50 cm, nu er du kommet til under ærmerne og fortsætter ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 25-17

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.