Mosa by DROPS Design

Crochet wide DROPS jacket with raglan in ”Fabel”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 151-37
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-248
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 100-108-116-126-138-150 cm / 39½”-42½”-45¾”-49½”-54¼”-59”
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4’’-20½’’-21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’

DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-400-450 g color no 674, heather
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 104, purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E – or size needed to get 22 sts x 18 rows pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.



Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.65 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.85$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
On every sc row replace first sc with 1 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 3 ch.

ROW 1: 1 dc with heather in every sc.
ROW 2: 1 sc with purple in every dc.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
To avoid cutting the yarn between every row work as follows:
Work 1st row with dc from RS with heather, leave the yarn.
Work 2nd row from RS with sc with purple, leave the yarn.
Work 3rd row from WS with dc with yarn from 1st row (heather).
Work 4th row from WS with sc with yarn from 2nd row (purple).

INCREASE TIP: Work 2 dc/sc in a dc/sc.

DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Work until 1 sc/dc remains before marker, skip 2 sc/dc (marker is in the middle of these sts) = 8 dec sts per row.

Crochet 1 dc/sc tog as follows: Work 1 dc/sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc/sc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dc/sc dec.

Read US/UK above! Ch 236-255-278-301-334-367 with purple on hook size 3.5 mm/E. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 3-1-3-5-3-1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 202-218-238-258-286-314 sc. READ CROCHET INFO!
Then work PATTERN until finished measurements - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Insert 1 marker 53-57-62-67-74-81 sts in from each side (back piece = 96-104-114-124-138-152 sts).
When piece measures 5 cm / 2’’, inc 1 dc/sc on each side of markers (= 4 inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-3½-3½-3½-4-4 cm / 1 1/8”-1¼”-1¼”-1¼”-1½”-1½” 6 more times (= 7 inc in total) = 230-246-266-286-314-342 sts. When piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm / 11’’-11 3/8’’-11¾’’-12¼’’-12½’’-13’’, work next row as follows - make sure that this is a row worked from RS with dc:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 56-60-65-70-77-84 sc (right front piece), skip 8 sc, work 1 dc in each of the next 102-110-120-130-144-158 sc, skip 8 sc, work 1 dc in each of the last 56-60-65-70-77-84 sc = 214-230-250-270-298-326 dc.
Put piece aside.

Work back and forth and sew tog afterwards.
Ch 59-61-66-68-70-73 with purple on hook size 3.5 mm/E. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 1-3-1-3-5-1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 50-52-56-58-60-62 sc. READ CROCHET INFO! Then work PATTERN until finished measurements - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾’’, inc 1 st in each side on a row with dc, repeat inc on every row with dc 26-27-27-28-29-30 more times (= 27-28-28-29-30-31 times in total) = 104-108-112-116-120-124 sts.
When piece measures 47-47-46-46-45-45 cm / 18½”-18½”-18”-18”-17¾”-17¾” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder), work next row as follows - make sure that this is a row worked with dc: Work sl sts over the first 4 sc, work 1 dc in every sc until 4 sc remain = 96-100-104-108-112-116 dc, cut the yarns.

Now work the parts tog as follows:
Work 1 sc in every dc from left front piece, 1 sc in every dc from sleeve, 1 sc in every dc from back piece, 1 sc in every dc from sleeve, 1 sc in every dc from right front piece = 406-430-458-486-522-558 sc.
Work 2 more rows with pattern, then beg dec for raglan. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece = 4 markers.
Dec for raglan on every row 39-41-43-45-47-49 times in total – read DECREASE TIP!
AT THE SAME TIME as dec for raglan begins, do not work over the first and last 5 dc/sc on row, and also AT THE SAME TIME beg dec for neck. Dec for neck by working the first 2 and the last 2 sts on row tog – READ DECREASE TIP 2, dec for neck every 3rd row 12-14-11-7-0-0 times, then every other row 0-0-6-13-23-20 times and then every row 0-0-0-0-2-10 times (= 12-14-17-20-25-30 dec in total).
After all dec for raglan and neck are done, 60-64-70-76-86-96 dc/sc remain on row. Work 1 row with dc while dec 2-4-8-12-20-27 dc evenly - SEE DECREASE TIP 2 = 58-60-62-64-66-69 dc.

Sew sleeve seams. Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew on buttons on left front piece, top button 1 cm / ½’’ before dec for neck beg, bottom button approx. 8 cm / 3’’ from bottom edge. Button between 2 dc on right front piece.

Work approx. 164 to 200 sc with heather around the entire neck opening. Work 3 rows with sc. Fasten off.
Finally work a row around the entire opening on jacket with purple as follows – beg at the bottom on right band, work up around the neck and down along left band: * 1 sc, ch 1, skip approx. ½ cm / 1/4’’ *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sc at the bottom of left band. Fasten off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 151-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Paola wrote:

Buongiorno! Molto carino questo capo, ma prima di cominciare a farlo ho bisogno di due chiarimenti: 1. E' tutto lavorato a righe alterne, una con il filato in tinta unita e una con quello misto? 2. Volevo farlo del colore di quello della foto, ma non trovo il colore n. 674, erika: è fuori produzione? Grazie!

14.03.2021 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, deve lavorare come indicato nel paragrafo MOTIVO, a righe alternate. Purtroppo il colore 674 è fuori produzione. Buon lavoro!

14.03.2021 kl. 19:41

country flag Gilda wrote:

Salve, nel corpo del maglioncino dove dice di lavorare 59 ma un davanti saltare 8 mb, per la misura S, continuare per il dietro e, poi saltare altre 8 mb, e terminare l altro davanti. La domanda è, il filo deve essere staccato? I davanti no sono legati al dietro? Grazie per l aiuto che vorrete darmi. GILDA

20.01.2020 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Gilda. Sì, taglia il filo. Le 9 maglie che vengono saltate sono gli scalfi, è il punto in cui verranno inserite successivamente le maniche, quindi il davanti e il dietro devono essere separati. Buon lavoro!

21.01.2020 kl. 12:45

country flag Nunzia wrote:

Salve, si può avere il modello con taglia XS? Per me la taglia s è troppo grande. Grazie

28.08.2019 - 22:10

country flag Nancy Maltais wrote:

Dans le premier rang vous dites de crocheter ceci après la ms( 1 ms dans chacune des 3-1-3-5-3-1 ml suivantes) je ne saisie pas vraiment ce que vous voulez dire

19.01.2019 - 04:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Maltais, au 1er rang, on crochète en ms en sautant en même temps des mailles en l'air à espaces réguliers pour que la chaînette ne resserre pas l'ouvrage, ainsi en taille 1, 3 et 5, on va crocheter 1 ms dans chacune des 3 ml suivantes, en taille 2 et 6, 1 ms dans la ml suivante, et en taille 4, 1 ms dans les 5 ml suivantes. Bon crochet!

21.01.2019 kl. 09:50

country flag Julie wrote:

Kan i måske forklare det med de 5 masker før/efter kanten i raglan der skal springes over? Jeg forstår det ikke? Er det på hver række de skal springes over, eller en enkelt gang? Og skal der samtidigt tages 1 maske ind på hver 3. RK (f.eks) ? Jeg vil gerne have en uddybning af dette. Hilsen Julie

20.08.2018 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Julie, jo du begynder indtagningen til hals samtidig som du begynder med raglan indtagningen. Indtagningen til raglan gør du ifølge INDTAGNINGSTIPS (RAGLAN) og indtagningen til hals gør du i hver side mod midt foran ifølge INDTAGNINGSTIPS-2. (Nu hækler du heller ikke mere over de yderste 5 masker foran). God fornøjelse!

21.08.2018 kl. 14:54

country flag Julie Rasmussen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke starten hvor der står “LÆS HÆKLEINFO! Fortsæt med MØNSTER til færdigt mål – se forkl over!” Hvilket mål? Er det bare det antal masker der skal være? Eller er det mål eller cm? Og hvor finder jeg disse mål?

09.07.2018 - 05:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Julie, du finder forklaringen til MØNSTER ovenfor lige under Instruktioner. Til færdigt mål vil sige hele opskriften igennem til du er færdig - du følger bare opskriften samtidigt som du hækler MØNSTER. God fornøjelse!

09.07.2018 kl. 08:40

country flag Sirugue Yvonne wrote:

J'ai terminé ce gilet et les manches sont beaucoup trop larges .les mesures correspondent au schéma mais ce n'est vraiment pas seyant . La tension n'était pas bonne non plus j'ai fait une taille plus petite pour obtenirl les mêmes mesures . C'est la 1 ère fois que je suis déçue par un modèle Drops. Je vais défaire jusqu'à l'emmanchure pour faire un gilet manches montées . Quelle perte de temps .y.s

25.03.2017 - 06:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sirugue, les emmanchures de ce gilet sont volontairement larges - voir schéma des mesures. Pensez à bien ajuster votre tension en changeant la taille de votre crochet si besoin pour avoir les bonnes mesures à la fin. Bon crochet!

27.03.2017 kl. 10:26

country flag Victoria wrote:

Salve. Sto lavorando una tg S, ho fatto il campione e messo su le catenelle come da spiegazioni ma mi sembra sinceramente un pò grandino....dalla foto sembra un modello che rimane abbastanza avvitato motivo per il quale l'ho scelto.... consigli? grazie

08.01.2017 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Victoria, il campione corrisponde a quello indicato? Nel caso riprovi a fare il campione con un uncinetto più piccolo. Se il campione corrisponde le misure del capo finito saranno come quelle indicate nel modello. Buon lavoro!

08.01.2017 kl. 19:12

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens de recevoir ma laine et j'ai commencé tout de suite. J'ai bien monté 255 m en 3,5. Ca me donnait une longueur de 1,30. J'ai recommencé en prenant un crochet n°3 et j'ai monté 236 m mais j'ai encore une longueur de 1,20... Est ce que je crochète trop lâche ? Merci pour votre réponse.

27.08.2016 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, commencez bien par faire votre échantillon pour savoir avec quel crochet vous pourrez avoir 22 m x 18 rangs = 10 x 10 cm et conservez bien cette même tension pour l'ouvrage total. La chaînette de base est plus longue que le nbe de mailles du 1er rang (236-255 ml pour 202-218 ms au 1er rang en taille S-M). Bon crochet!

29.08.2016 kl. 11:39

country flag Svenja wrote:

Hallo, am Ende des Rumpfteils werden 2 mal 8fM übersprungen. Verstehe ich das richtig, dass hier der Faden nicht abgeschnitten wird? Wie werden diese je 8 Maschen am Ende zusammen genäht? Je 4 Maschen zusammen oder an den Ärmel? Oder ganz anders? Vielen Dank!

27.07.2016 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Svenja, der Faden muss an dieser Stelle abgeschnitten werden. Diese übersprungenen Maschen sind unter dem Arm und werden am Schluss mit dem Ärmel zusammengenäht. Dies braucht es zur besseren Passform.

28.07.2016 kl. 15:24

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