DROPS Children / 9 / 25

Little Treasure by DROPS Design

Baby set in BabyMerino and Cotton Viscose

The set comprises jacket, jumpsuits, socks and hat

Size: 0/3-6/9-12/18 months
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80.

Materials: DROPS Baby Merinofrom Garnstudio
300-350-350 g colour no 100, off white
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g colour no 02, off white

JACKET:

Chest measurement: 52-60-68 cm.
Whole length: 26-28-31 cm.
Sleeve length: 19-21-22 cm.

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm.
DROPS Rabbit button, no 570: 4 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows in stocking st on needle size 2.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. Pattern is seen from RS. When casting off in the round follow the diagram for the appropriate size.

Edge-1: Stocking st 3 rows with Baby Merino, change to Cotton Viscose, knit 1 row stocking st, next row as follows seen from RS: * K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-* (= folding edge, measure piece from here!), 1 row stocking st. Change to Baby Merino, knit 3 rows stocking st.

Edge-2: Knit in Baby Merino as follows: 3 rows stocking st, P1 row from RS, 3 rows stocking st. Cast off.

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Moss stitch: 1st row: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: P over K and K over P. Repeat these two rows.
...........................................................

JACKET: Back and front pieces: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 137-157-177 sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Knit edge-1 - see explanation above, knit edge st in garter st throughout. After edge-1 knit M.3 and continue in M.2. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 14-15-17 cm knit next row as follows: 31-36-41 sts front piece, cast off 8 sts for armhole, 59-69-79 sts back, cast off 8 sts for armhole, 31-36-41 sts front piece. Leave piece to one side.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-38-40 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Knit edge-1. After edge knit M.3, at the same time inc 2-2-4 sts evenly on row = 40-40-44 sts. After M.3 continue with M.2 , at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm: 6-9-9 times on every 8th round = 52-58-62 sts. When piece measures 19-21-22 cm cast off 8 sts mid under arm = 44-50-54 m. Leave piece to one side.

Yoke: Slip sleeves onto same circular needle as sweater where 8 sts have been cast off for armhole = 209-241-269 sts (incl 1 edge st on each side mid front). Continuing in M.1 and cast off following the diagram with edge st in garter st. On first row of diagram knit as follows: Size 0/3 months: inc 3 sts evenly on row = 212 sts. Size 6/9 months: inc 3 sts evenly on row = 244 sts. Size 12/18 months: inc 3 sts evenly on row = 266 sts. When 9 rows are left of M.1 slip 5-7-8 sts on each side mid front on a thread for neck. Continue slipping sts on thread on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 2 times. After M.1 slip sts from threads onto needle. Knit 1 row stocking st at the same time dec evenly to = 64-70-74 sts.
Collar: = 64-70-74 sts on row. Knit 1 cm rib edge – see explanation above – with Baby Merino. Continuing, knit collar so RS is seen when collar is lying down. Knit 3 rows garter st – with 3 sts moss stitch each side towards mid front - at the same time inc 12-16-12 sts evenly distributed on last row = 76-86-86 sts. Then knit 11 rows of M.2 – continue with 3 sts moss stitch on each side. Then knit 4 rows moss stitch on all sts, cast off.

Assembly: Double edges at bottom of sweater and sleeves towards WS and sew on. Sew openings under sleeves.
Front band: Gather approx 60-76 sts along right front band – within 1 edge st – on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Knit Edge-2 – see explanation above. Repeat along left front band. Double edges towards WS and sew on.
Crochet edge: Double crochet round front band and collar with Cotton Viscose on crochet hook size 2.5 mm - start at bottom of left front band, crochet in P sts (= folding edge), continue around collar and down over right front band – on right front band crochet 4 buttonholes distributed over the top 10-11-12 cm. One buttonhole = 3 chain sts, sew on with 1 dc 1 cm below. Sew on buttons.


JUMPSUIT:
Size: 0/3-6/9-12/18 months
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80.

Chest measurement: 52-60-68 cm.
Whole length: 26-28-31 cm.
Sleeve length: 19-21-22 cm.

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm.
DROPS Hare button, no 570: 4 pcs.

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 MM IN stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. Pattern is seen from RS.

Edge: 3 rows stocking st with Baby Merino, change to Cotton Viscose, knit 1 row stocking st, knit next row as follows seen form RS: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge), 1 row stocking st. Change to Baby Merino, Knit 3 rows stocking st.

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Left leg: Cast on 42-46-52 sts on double pointed needles 2.5 mm with Baby Merino, knit edge – see explanation above. After edge knit M.3, then inc 20 sts evenly on row = 62-66-72 sts. Continue with stocking st in Baby Merino at the same time inc 2 sts mid inside leg: 11-13-13 times on every 5 rows = 84-92-98 sts. Remember knitting tension! When piece measure 17-19-22 cm (from eyelet row = folding edge) split on inside of leg (= split – to make it easier to slip leg sts onto one circular needle afterwards) complete knitting back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 86-94-100 sts. When piece measures 18-20-23 cm cast off 5 sts each side. Leave piece to one side.

Right leg: Knit like left.

Trousers: Slip legs onto same circular needle = 152-168-180 sts. Continue in the round in stocking st – at the same time on first round inc 1 st mid back on each side of the two middle sts and dec 1 st mid front on each side of the two middle sts.

Inc mid back as follows: 1 st 8 times on every other row.
Dec mid front as follows: 1 st 8 times on every other row.
= 152-168-180 sts.
When piece measures 37-46-51 cm knit next row as follows:
Size 0/3 months: dec 2 sts evenly.
Size 6/9 months: inc 2 sts evenly.
Size 12/18 months: no inc or dec.
Now you have 150-170-180 sts on needle. Knit 3 cm rib edge – see explanation above. Then continue with M.2 (ensure to place first "P sts diamond" in pattern mid front).
When piece measures 42-51-56 cm knit next round as follows: Cast off 3 sts for armhole, knit 69-79-84 sts front piece, cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 69-79-84 sts back, cast off 3 sts for armhole.
Complete front and back piece separately.

Front piece: = 69-79-84 sts. Continue in M.2 at the same time cast off each side for armhole on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 55-65-70 sts. When piece measures 46-55-60 cm cast off the middle 13-15-18 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 14-18-19 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 52-62-68 cm knit 2 rows garter st before casting off.

Back: = 69-79-84 sts. Cast off for armhole as described for front piece. Knit until piece measures 50-60-66 cm, now cast off the middle 21-23-26 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 14-18-19 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 52-62-68 cm knit 1 cm rib edge before casting off.

Assembly: Gather approx 64-74 sts up round right armhole on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino, knit Edge back and forth on row, cast off. Repeat around left arme hole. Gather up approx 50-70 sts around front neckline on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino, knit Edge back and forth on row, cast off. Gather up approx 32-40 sts round back neckline on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino, knit Edge back and forth on needle, cast off. Sew split tog on inside of each leg up to the cast off sts, then sew tog opening between legs from mid front to mid back on trousers. Fold all edges double towards WS and sew on. Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino at the top of each shoulder on front pieces as follows: 1st row: dc. 2nd row: dc with two buttonholes evenly distributed, 1 buttonhole = 3-4 chain st, skip 1 cm and sew on with 1 dc in next dc. Sew on buttons.


SOCKS:
Size: 0/3- 6/9- 12/18 months
Sock foot length in cm: 10-11-12 cm.

DROPS needle size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 row on needle size 2.5 mm and stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. Pattern is seen from RS.

Edge: 3 rows stocking st with Baby Merino change to Cotton Viscose, knit 1 row stocking st, knit next row from RS as follows: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge), 1 row stocking st. Change to Baby Merino, knit 3 rows stocking st.

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 36-36-42 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Knit Edge – see explanation above – forth and back on row from mid back. After Edge knit M.3, then M.4, and then 11 rows of M.2. Now piece measures approx 7.5 cm (measured from folding edge). Knit 2 rows rib edge, then knit next row as follows: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-*. Knit 2 rows rib edge. Slip 13-13-14 sts on each side of piece on a thread. Knit M.2 for 5-6-7 cm over the middle 10-10-14 sts. Slip sts from threads onto needle at the same time as gathering 13-16-18 sts up on each side of middle piece = 62-68-78 sts on needle. Knit 3-4-4 cm garter st ver all sts – at the same time, after 2-2.5-2.5 cm cast off on every other row: 1 st at beg and end of row - at the same time, knit 2 tog on each side of 2 middle sts. Continue like this for 3-4-4 cm. Cast off and sew seam under foot and up mid back with mattress sts in the outermost loop of the outermost st. Double over top edge towards WS and sew on. Make a tie ribbon for sock: Cut 1 thread in Cotton Viscose of approx 240 cm. Double it. Get a friend to hold the one end and twist thread until it resists – double thread and tie a knot each end (thread = approx 50 cm long), thread through the bottom hole edge. Make another tie ribbon.


HAT:
Size: 0/3- 6/9- 12/18 months
Head circumference in cm: 41-45-48 cm.

DROPS needle size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 mm and stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. Pattern is seen from RS

Edge: 3 rows stocking st with Baby Merino, change to Cotton Viscose, knit 1 row stocking st, knit next row as follows – seen from RS: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge), 1 row stocking st. Change to Baby Merino, knit 3 rows stocking st.

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Knitted back and forth on needle from around the face and towards back and sewn tog mid back afterwards. Cast on 73-83-87 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino, knit Edge –see explanation above – but knit edge st in garter st throughout. After edge knit M.2, then knit 3 rows stocking st and 2 rows reverse stocking st. Continue with M.2 until piece measures 11-13-14 cm from folding edge. Now knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st = 50-56-59 sts. Knit 4 rows stocking st. Knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st = 34-38-40 sts. Knit 4 rows stocking st. Knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st = 24-26-28 sts. Knit 4 rows stocking st. Knit sts tog two by two on next row (not edge sts) = 13-14-15 sts. Pull a double thread through these sts and tie ends tog, sew thread ends.

Assembly: Sew hat tog from pulled tog sts mid back and 4 cm down towards neck – sew within 1 edge st. Fold edge at front double towards WS and sew. Gather approx 52-62 sts round bottom edge (within 1 edge st) on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Knit 2 cm stocking st, cast off = casing. Double casing towards WS and sew. Make a tie ribbon as follows: Cut 1 thread in Cotton Viscose of approx 3 m. Double thread. Get a friend to hold the one end and twist thread until it resists – double thread and tie a knot each end (thread = approx 60 cm long), pull through casing.

BLANKET in Alaska and Cotton Viscose
Measurement: approx 70 x 70 cm.

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
350 g colour no 02, off white.
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
250 g colour no 02, off white.

DROPS needle size 6 mm + crochet hook size 4 mm

Knitting tension: 15 sts x 22 rows on needle size 6 mm with 1 thread Alaska and 1 thread Cotton Viscose = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Crochet tension: width of 15 DC on crochet hook size 4 mm with Alaska = approx 10 cm.

Garter st: 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Lobster st: Lobster st = DC from RS but opposite direction, i.e. from left to right.

Blanket:
Cast on 102 sts on needle size 6 mm with 1 thread Alaska and 1 thread Cotton Viscose. Knit 2 rows garter st, continue in stocking st but garter st the outer st on each side throughout. Remember knitting tension! When piece measures approx 67 cm, knit 2 rows garter st on all sts, cast off.
Crochet edge: Crochet around edge – within 2 rows garter st – on crochet hook size 4 mm as follows: 1st row: DC with Alaska. 2nd row: Lobster st with 2 threads Cotton Viscose – see explanation above!

Diagram

= Baby Merino: K on RS, P on WS
= Baby Merino: P on RS, K on WS
= Cotton Viscose: K on RS, P on WS
= slip 1 st off needle at the same time as leaving the working thread on RS of piece
= K2 tog
= K2 tog, yo
= M.1a is size 0/3 months, M.1b is size 6/9 months, M.1c is size 12/18 months




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 9-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Penelope Hamp 10.02.2019 - 12:46:

What yarn weight dies this pattern require please - 4ply???

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 03:19:

Dear Penelope, this pattern uses Baby Merino yarn, which is 175 m / 50 gramm balls. That is ever so slightly thicker than the average sockyarn, so it falls into the sportweight category, and the DROPS yarn group A. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

Ingrid 01.03.2017 - 21:48:

Hei! Er det mulig å legge ut et bilde av kysa slik at man ser litt mer av den? Nå ser man kun kanten på den framfra.

DROPS Design 02.03.2017 kl. 09:11:

Hej Ingrid, vi har desværre ikke flere billeder af kysen, vi håber du klarer dig med billedet i vuggen. God fornøjelse!

Judith Bunge-schuknecht 18.08.2015 - 21:22:

Ich habe die jacke fast fertig, aber die Übersetzung der anleitung des kragens ist eine Katastrophe. Ich bitte um hilfe.ich möchte die jacke gerne fertig stellen. L.g.

DROPS Design 01.09.2015 kl. 16:10:

Der Absatz zum Kragen wurde nun neu übersetzt, hoffentlich ist es nun besser verständlich.

Marin Aurélia 16.08.2015 - 18:38:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé à tricoté ce modèle mais je ne peux pas continuer car la légende des point n'est pas en français. Serait-il possible de la traduire? Vous remerciant par avance, cordialement

DROPS Design 17.08.2015 kl. 10:01:

Bonjour Mme Marin, vous trouverez la légende des diagrammes entre la fin des explications du modèle et le schéma des mesures. Bon tricot!

Elna Engedal 24.09.2014 - 14:12:

Der står under rettelser til jakken at man skal slå 16 masker mere op til ærmer, det vil sige 54 masker ialt til str.0-3mdr. Bliver det ikke for stort.

DROPS Design 29.09.2014 kl. 08:53:

Hej Elna, Hvis du har opskriften fra nettet, så er den allerede rettet. Det er kun hvis du har katalogerne du skal tænke på rettelserne. God fornøjelse!

Marianne 25.08.2014 - 22:34:

På M3 skal tråden som strikkes med legges på forsiden, selv om en strikker på vrangen?

Elna Engedal 20.08.2014 - 12:50:

Hej Jeg er gået igang med at strikke denne søde trøje. Syntes ikke rigtig jeg forstår diagram M2 og M3. Er det kun alle retpindene der er vist? Skal der strikkes vrang tilbage? Skal jeg selv sætte vrangpindene ind.

DROPS Design 20.08.2014 kl. 16:58:

Hej Elna. Begge pinde vises paa diagrammet. Hver anden raekke (2,4,6 osv) er vrangen. Mönstret vises fra retten, saa staar der r (paa retten), skal du strikke vrang paa vrangen og omvendt. God fornöjelse videre.

Angelika Busch 27.06.2014 - 12:27:

Hatte bisher noch nie Probleme mit den Mustern, aber diesmal schon. Sind bei dem Diagramm hin und Rückreihen gezeichnet oder nur die Hinreihen und bei der Rückreihen die Maschen stricken wie sie erscheinen? Danke im Voraus

DROPS Design 27.06.2014 kl. 14:06:

Liebe Frau Busch, es sind alle R eingezeichnet, also sowohl Hin- als auch Rück-R. Gutes Gelingen!

Christina Nilsson 13.05.2014 - 16:20:

Garnet, som rekommenderas i detta mönster, heter Baby Merino, inte Baby Ull?!

Berit 12.05.2014 - 13:43:

Baby-ull finns ju inte längre!

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