DROPS / 146 / 15

Lisa by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl with lace pattern in ”Lace”.

Tags: lace, shawls,
DROPS design: Pattern no la-015
Yarn group A
Size: approx. 79 cm measured at the back of neck and down along mid st.
DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – NOTE: Read about the knitting tension below.

This garment is to be soaked and blocked/stretched to size afterwards so the knitting tension is not that important but to get a sense of whether you are working too loose/tight, work a test on needle size 3.5 mm in stocking st and get approx. 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.70 £ /50g
DROPS Lace uni colour DROPS Lace uni colour 4.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Lace mix DROPS Lace mix 4.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lace. Insert 1 marker in the 4th st and move it upwards when working (= mid st - marks mid back of shawl). Then work as follows: (1st row = RS) 3 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, diagram A.1 and 3 sts in garter st. On next row P YOs to make holes = 9 sts. Continue to work according to diagram A.1 with 3 sts in garter st in each side, when diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 37 sts on row. Now continue as follows: 3 sts in garter st, diagrams A.2/A.3/A.4 and K 1 st (= mid st), diagrams A.2/A.3/A.4 and 3 sts in garter st. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically (= 85 sts), start over; 3 repetitions of A.3 will fit between A.2 and A.4. Work diagrams a total of 4 times vertically, every time you start over, there is room for 2 more repetitions of A.3 between A.2 and A.4. When diagrams have been worked 4 times vertically, there are 229 sts on row. Piece measures approx. 37 cm measured in knitting direction from cast on edge up to needle. Now continue as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.5, A.6 over the next 108 sts, work until 2 sts remain before mid st, work A.7, K 1 st (= mid-st), A.5, A.6 over the next 108 sts until 5 sts remain, work A.7 and 3 sts in garter st. Continue to work according to diagrams A.5/A.6/A.7 until diagrams have been worked 4 times vertically. Every time A.5/A.6/A.7 have been worked 1 time vertically, there is room for 2 more repetitions of A.6 between A.5 and A.7 on each side of mid st - AT THE SAME TIME on last row of last repetition (= WS), inc 8 sts evenly by working 2 sts in 1 st = 301 sts. Piece measures approx. 48 cm measured in knitting direction. Now continue as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.2, A.3 over the next 144 sts, work until 2 sts remain before mid st, work A.4, K 1 st (mid-st), A.2, A.3 over the next 144 sts, 5 sts remain, work A.4 and 3 sts in garter st. Continue to work according to diagrams A.2/A.3/A.4 until diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically = 349 sts. On next row from RS, loosely cast off as follows – NOTE: It is very important to cast off very LOOSELY otherwise the edge cannot be shaped into tips: Cast of the first 3 edge sts (lightly pull them when casting off so that they are loose), * make 1 loose YO on right needle, cast off YO, cast off 2 sts (lightly pull when casting off so that they are loose) *, repeat from *-* the entire row.

Place the shawl in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze the water out of the shawl - do not twist the shawl - then roll the shawl in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the shawl will now only be moist. Place the shawl on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size and fasten it with pins. NOTE: 1 pin in the outermost st in each side of shawl, fasten 1 pin in the middle of every repetition along the 2 diagonal sides and 1 pin in mid st (= at the bottom of tip on shawl), lightly pull at every pin so that the edge is shaped into small tips. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the shawl has been washed.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.11.2014
Under size: Size: approx. 79 cm measured at the back of neck and down along mid st.
Under shawl:..Continue to work according to diagrams A.2/A.3/A.4 until diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically = 349 sts.


= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso.
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 146-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

Deborah Ann Moorman 16.05.2019 - 22:06:

Very pretty.

Hélène 16.04.2018 - 20:28:

Merci beaucoup pour ce patron! Je viens de terminer de le bloquer et le châle est dans toute sa splendeur. Hélène

Hélène 14.03.2018 - 19:04:

J’ai une autre interrogation pour vous à savoir : répartir 8 augmentations est-ce 8 augmentations total sur le dernier rang ou 8 augmentations à répartir jusqu’à la maille centrale et 8 autres dans la deuxième section du châle? Merci à l’avance! Hélène

DROPS Design 15.03.2018 kl. 08:21:

Bonjour Hélène, on augmente 8 m au total au dernier rang, soit 4 m avant la m centrale et 4 m après la m centrale. Bon tricot!

Hélène 13.03.2018 - 12:55:

Oups! Je crois que vous m’avez oublié! Hélène

Hélène 12.03.2018 - 13:26:

J’ai tricoté les 229 mailles. Pour la partie de A5-A6-A7, j’augmente de 4 mailles à chaque rang impair et rendue au 8ième rang (envers) je tricote 8 augmentations et ce à chaque fois que je tricote ces 8 rangs. Donc, dans le 1er. rapport les 8 augmentations se feraient à peu près aux 30 mailles. Est-ce que je suis dans l’erreur? Merci de me répondre, Hélène

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 16:27:

Bonjour Hélène, vous augmentez 4 m dans chaque A.5/A.7 soit effectivement 8 m à chaque fois que les diagrammes sont faits 1 fois en hauteur mais 16 mailles au total sur le rang (on les tricote 2 fois, une fois avant et une fois après la m centrale). La 2ème fois que vous répétez ces diagrammes, tricotez-les comme la 1ère fois, mais entre chaque A.5 et A.7 vous répèterez A.6 2 fois de plus en largeur (= 8 m en plus entre A.5 et A.7 = 2 x A.6 en plus entre A.5 et A.7). Bon tricot!

Mariya Peneva-Chavdarova 28.02.2018 - 11:58:

Bitte um Hilfe! Wenn ich die 85 Maschen auf der Rundstricknadel habe, also einmal Diagram A1 und einmal A2+A3+A4 gestrickt habe, soll ich WO die noch 2Rapporte von A3 hinzustricken - in der Reihengfolge A2-A3-A3-A3- mittlere Masche - A3-A3-A3-A4? Stricke ich dann kein A4 vor der mittleren Masche? irgendwie habe ich einen DenkFehler und mir geht dann das Muster nicht auf? Danke für Ihre Hilfe im voraus?

DROPS Design 28.02.2018 kl. 17:28:

Liebe Frau Peneva-Chavdarova, wenn Sie 1 x die Diagramme A.2/A.3/A.4 in der Höhe gestrickt haben, dann haben Sie jetzt genügend Maschen um 3 x A.3 in der Breite (zwischen A.2 und A.4) zu stricken, dh so werden Sie bei der 2. Rapport in der Höhe stricken: 3 M re, A.2, 3XA.3, A.4, 1 mittlere Masche, A.2, 3xA.3, A.4, 4 M re. Bei 3. Rapport in der Höhe wiederholen Sie 5 x A.3 zwischen A.2 und A.4, und bei dem 4. Rapport in der Höhen wiederholen Sie 6 x A.3 zwischen A.2 und A.4. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hélène 23.02.2018 - 14:39:

Merci d’avoir répondu à ma question si rapidement. Les 8 augmentations se font-elles à chaque fois qu’on complète un rapport de 8 rangs ou les fait-on juste un fois? De plus, avez-vous une vidéo montrant comment faire une augmentation en tricotant 2fois la même maille? Au plaisir de vous lire.

DROPS Design 23.02.2018 kl. 16:47:

Bonjour Hélène, les 8 augmentations se font au dernier rang (= sur l'envers) quand vous tricotez le dernier des 4 motifs en hauteur. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter 2 fois la même maille à l'endroit, comme ce rang se tricote en mailles envers, procédez de la même façon mais en tricotant la maille à l'envers une fois dans le brin avant puis dans le brin arrière. Bon tricot!

Hélène 22.02.2018 - 17:50:

J’ai tricoté les 229 mailles et je commence la section de A5. Cependant vous indiquez de tricoter sur les 108 mailles moi j’arrive à 111 mailles de chaque côté à savoir 229 mailles-6 mailles bordure-1 maille centrale=222 donc ce serait 111 mailles et non 108 tel qu’indiqué. Suis-je dans l’erreur? Merci.

DROPS Design 23.02.2018 kl. 08:56:

Bonjour Hélène, c'est bien exact ainsi: vous tricotez les 111 m en suivant A.5 (= 1 m), vous répétez A.6 sur les 108 m suivantes (= 27 fois) et vous terminez par A.7 (= 2m) sot: 1+108+2 = 111 m. Les 3 m point mousse et la m jersey se tricotent comme avant. Bon tricot!

Hélène 04.02.2018 - 22:55:

Bonjour, Est-ce qu’on doit les rangs impairs de gauche à droite même si on nous indique de tricoter A2A3et A4 3 fois ? Merci

DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 10:01:

Bonjour Hélène, les rangs sur l'endroit se lisent de droite à gauche et les rangs sur l'envers de gauche à droite (lisez chaque diagramme séparément de gauche à droite sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

Hélène 29.01.2018 - 14:03:

Bonjour, quand vous mentionnez tricoter 3 fois A3 entre A2 et A4. tricoter les diagrammes 4 fois au total en hauteur, à chaque fois que l’on recommence, on a suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter encore 2 fois A3 en plus entre A2 et A4 donc ce que je comprends je tricote A3 5 fois entre A2 et A4 et ce 4 fois en hauteur. Suis-je dans l’erreur? Merci Hélène

DROPS Design 29.01.2018 kl. 17:02:

Bonjour Hélène, quand vous tricotez les diagrammes la 2ème fois en hauteur, vous aurez 5 motifs de A.3 entre A.2 et A.4, la 3ème fois, vous en aurez 7 (2 de plus) et la 4ème fois 9 (2 de plus). Bon tricot!

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