DROPS / 146 / 4

Honeymoon by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho with lace pattern in "BabyAlpaca Silk" or "Lace". Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern no la-012
Yarn group A
Chest measurements: 80 to 96 cm – 106 to 130 cm
Circumference at the top: approx. 58-96 cm
Length from cast on edge to bottom edge mid front: approx. 57-52 cm (shorter in larger size due to deeper neck).

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
450-450 g colour no 0100, off white
OR use:
Materials: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
200-200 g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Read KNITTING TENSION below.

2 meters off white silk ribbon 10 mm in width.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
This garment is to be soaked and stretched to size afterwards. The knitting tension is therefore not that important but to get a sense of whether you are working to loose/tight, 23 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3.5 mm = approx. 10 x 10 cm.


GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See arrow for your size in Diagram A.2.

Piece is worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle and then in the round. This is done to make a vent mid front.
Cast on 156-220 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm (40 cm) with Baby Alpaca Silk or Lace. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows: A.1 (= 17 sts), * A.2 (= 5-21 sts), A.3 (= 34 sts) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, A.2 (= 5-21 sts), A.4 (= 17 sts). Continue this pattern back and forth until 2 repetitions of A.1/A.4 have been worked vertically, finish when 17 sts remain on needle. This is now the beg of round. Now continue to work in the round over all sts, continue with A.3 over A.1/A.4. Continue this pattern upwards, switch to a longer circular needle when needed. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 348 sts on needle in both sizes. Then work as follows: * A.3, A.5 A, A.5 B 2 times, A.5 C *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total. Every time A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there is 1 A.5 B more between every A.5 A and A.5 C.

Continue this pattern until a total of 9-8 repetitions of A.3 and 8-8 repetitions of A.5 have been worked vertically = 732 sts on needle in both sizes. K 1 round over all sts, over all A.5 dec 9 sts evenly (= 140 sts remain over every A.5, 696 sts in total.)
Then work as follows: * A.6 2 times, continue with the first 2 sts in A.5 A, work A.6 8 times, work the last 2 sts in A.5 C, * repeat from *-* 4 times in total.

Continue like this until A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically – K the inc sts in A.5 = 1072 sts. Loosely cast off.

If the poncho is worked in Lace, it needs to be blocked to get the right measurements and shape. If it is worked in Baby Alpaca Silk, lightly stretch or steam it. Place the poncho in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze the water out of the poncho - do not twist the poncho - then roll the poncho in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the poncho will now only be moist. Place the poncho on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size in a nice circle and fasten it with pins. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the poncho has been washed.

Thread a silk ribbon up and down in the ridges on the neck of poncho and tie a bow.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 146-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (132)

Lebigot 18.01.2021 - 23:15:

Bonjour, je suis au tout début de ce modèle, après les 4 rangs endroits j'ai tricoté A1 puis *A2-A3* et enfin A2 puis A4 sur l'endroit. Pour le rang envers je ne sais pas si je dois faire A1 puis *A2-A3* et enfin A2 puis A4 ou alors l'inverse A4 puis A2 puis *A2-A3* et enfin A1. Merci!

DROPS Design 19.01.2021 kl. 07:24:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, sur l'envers, lisez dans l'autre sens pour que les diagrammes s'alignent correctement, autrement dit, tricotez (en lisant les diagrammes cette fois de gauche à droite): A.4, puis A.2, puis (A.3, A.2), et terminez par A.1. Retrouvez ici plus d'infos sur les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Anna 29.11.2020 - 02:27:

Hej, 6 rapporter av A3 och 8 av A5 blir det i storlek XXL

Anna 28.10.2020 - 16:23:

DROPS Design 28.10.2020 kl. 13:19: Hej Anna, du starter tidligere med A.3, for du starter først A.5 når du er færdig med A.2. God fornøjelse! I storlek XXL är A2 32 varv och 2 rapporter av A1/A4 är 32 varv = man börjar både A3 och A5 på varv 1 när man börjar sticka A5. Vilket innebär att jag inte kan göra 8 rapporter av både A3 och A5... 8 rapporter av A3 är 128 varv, 8 rapporter av A5 är 96 varv.... detta går inte ihop för mig.

DROPS Design 29.10.2020 kl. 09:51:

Hej Anna, det kan jeg godt se... vi kan rette antal rapporter... hvor mange rapporter har du strikket i A.3 og A.5 når du har 732 masker på pinden?

Anna 25.10.2020 - 10:22:

Hej, När jag stickat A1/A4 två gånger på höjden i den stora storleken så har jag också stickat klart A2 på höjden. När jag då börjar A3 och A5 så börjar jag båda på varv 1 vilket innebär att jag har 4 varv kvar av A3 när jag stickat A5 en gång på höjden. Hur får ni då ihop att man ska sticka båda 8 gånger? Måste väl bli fler gånger av A5 om jag ska kunna sticka 8 omgångar av A3 på höjden?

DROPS Design 28.10.2020 kl. 13:19:

Hej Anna, du starter tidligere med A.3, for du starter først A.5 når du er færdig med A.2. God fornøjelse!

Agnès 11.02.2020 - 11:44:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le départ, si je compte bien, 2 +17+(5+34) x3+5+17 = 158, or il faut monter 156m. Merci pour l'aide

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 12:01:

Bonjour Agnès, c'est votre 2 en premier qui n'est pas juste, vous devez tricoter les 156 m ainsi: A.1 (= 17 m), * A.2 (= 5m), A.3 (= 34 m) *, répéter de *-* 3 fois au total (= 34+5 x3= 117 m) , A.2 (= 5 m), A.4 (= 17 m) et vous avez ainsi: 17+117+5+17= 156 m. Les 2 côtes au point mousse se tricotent sur toutes les mailles (= autrement dit, vous devez tricoter 4 rangs endroit avant de tricoter les diagrammes). Bon tricot!

Janine Möhrke 17.12.2019 - 20:31:

Hallo Ich frage mich grade wie ich das Seidenband nachher durch die Krausrippen ziehen soll. Können Sie mir bitte helfen?

DROPS Design 18.12.2019 kl. 07:44:

Liebe Frau Möhrke, das Seidenband ziehen Sie durch die Maschen zwischen den beiden ersten Krausrippen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kate Andritsopoulou 30.04.2019 - 08:39:

Thank you for your help. However the pattern continues \"When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 348 sts on needle in both sizes. \" If I am knitting A3 over A1/A4 where do I knit A2?

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 10:07:

Dear Mrs Andritsopoulou, A.2 will be worked over A.2 as before = just continkue working A.2 as before, the only change is here to work A.3 over A.1/A.4. Happy knitting!

Kate Andritsopoulou 29.04.2019 - 19:45:

Good evening! Can you please explain: "Now continue to work in the round over all sts, continue with A.3 over A.1/A.4." Thank you.

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 07:46:

Hi Kate, You have started the piece working back and forth to give the split mid front. Once the split is finished you continue in the round (so do not turn the piece, but continue straight on) to work the body of the poncho. The last part means that where you previously worked A.1/A.4 you now work A.3. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

Nina Sarkki 02.06.2018 - 08:28:

Hej! När jag nu stickat första rapporten A1 och A4 en gång och ska göra rapporten en gång till inför att sedan sticka ihop alla maskor så undrar jag hur/var jag fortsätter att sticka rapport A2, från början 5/21 jag får då inte maskantalet att stämma med omslagen?? Mvh Nina

DROPS Design 07.06.2018 kl. 15:32:

Hei Nina. Du skal bare fortsette A.2 videre oppover som anvist i diagrammet – altså du fortsetter med omgang 17 om du strikker størrelse S/M/L, eller med omgang 34 om du strikker størrelse XL/XXL/XXXL. God fornøyelse

Lesley Steinmeier 30.04.2018 - 17:17:

Klopt het dat in A6 tussen al die X'en (av goede kant) vanaf rij 14 in het midden, ook nog 0'en staan? Misschien ligt het aan mn telefoon, maar ik kan het heel slecht zien (misschien een overbodige vraag omdat ik anders moet minderen, maar voorkomen beter dan genezen...)

DROPS Design 02.05.2018 kl. 21:15:

Hallo Lesley, Het ligt niet aan je telefoon, hoor. Ze zijn inderdaad wat lastig om te zien maar in toer 13, 15, 17 en 19 van A.6 zitten aan beide kanten van de middelste steek een omslag. Er is een verzoek naar de designafdeling gestuurd om deze wat duidelijker in beeld te krijgen.

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