DROPS / 140 / 22

Calypso by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in 2 strands "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-619
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Chest measurements: 80/88 – 92/100 – 110/118 cm / 31½"/34½" - 36"/39½" - 43½"/16"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-200 g color no 3770, dark pink
150-150-200 g color no 2925, rust
150-150-200 g color no 3900, tomato
150-150-200 g color no 3800, old pink
150-150-200 g color no 6736, navy/purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x 5½ rows with tr vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.25 CAD /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.25 CAD /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.55 CAD /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
STRIPES:
Work 1 round with every color combination as follows:
2 strands 2925
1 strand 3770 + 1 strand 2925
2 strands 3770
1 strand 3770 + 1 strand 3900
2 strands 3900
1 strand 3900 + 1 strand 6736
2 strands 6736
1 strand 6736 + 1 strand 3800
2 strands 3800
1 strand 3800 + 1 strand 3770

Then work 1 round with every color combination and repeat upwards as follows:
2 strands 3770
1 strand 3770 + 1 strand 2925
2 strands 2925
1 strand 2925 + 1 strand 3900
2 strands 3900
1 strand 3900 + 1 strand 6736
2 strands 6736
1 strand 6736 + 1 strand 3800
2 strands 3800
1 strand 3800 + 1 strand 3770

CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on every round/row with ch 4.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 dc, in the next 1 hdc and in the last 1 sc, turn with ch 1, skip sc, work 1 sl st in hdc and 1 sl st in dc, then 1 sc in first tr, 1 hdc in next tr and 1 dc in next tr, work tr until 3 tr remain at end of row *, repeat from *-* until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Dec at beg of row by working sl sts over the no of tr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of tr to be dec remains, turn piece.
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BODY:
Read US/UK above! Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 strands Alpaca and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Ch 8 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 16 tr in ch-ring. READ CROCHET TIP!
ROUND 2: 2 tr in every tr = 32 tr.
ROUND 3: * 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 4: * 1 tr in each of next 2 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 tr.
ROUND 5: * 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 tr.
ROUND 6: * 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 tr.
ROUND 7: * 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 112 tr.
ROUND 8: * 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 128 tr.
ROUND 9: * 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 144 tr.
ROUND 10: * 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 160 tr.
ROUND 11: * 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 176 tr.
ROUND 12: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 16th tr = 187 tr.
Piece now measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' from the middle and out.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 13:
ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 45 tr (= up towards neck), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 88 tr (= down towards back), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 45 sc (= 47 tr), then work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 88 sc (= 91 tr), work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 198 tr.
ROUND 15 to 23:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 23rd round there are 252 tr on the round and piece now measures approx. 42 cm / 16½'' from the middle and out.
Continue working only over 87 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 39 tr at top by neck and 39 tr at bottom of back. Cut the thread.
Continue with explanation under left front piece.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
1 ch, then work 1 sc in each of the first 50 tr (= up towards neck), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 90 tr (= down towards back), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 3 tr evenly over the first 50 sc (= 53 tr), then work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 90 sc (= 93 tr), work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 210 tr.
ROUND 16 to 24:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 24th round there are 264 tr on the round and piece now measures approx. 44 cm / 17 1/4'' from the middle and out.
Continue working only over 91 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 41 tr at top by neck and 41 tr at bottom of back. Cut the thread.
Continue with explanation under left front piece.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 18th tr = 209 tr.
ROUND 15:
1 ch, then work 1 sc in each of the first 54 tr (= up towards neck), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 91 tr (= down towards back), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 54 sc (= 56 tr), then work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 91 sc (= 94 tr), and work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole = 222 tr.
ROUND 17 to 26:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 26th round there are 282 tr on the round and piece now measures approx. 47 cm / 18½'' from the middle and out.
Continue working only over 95 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 46 tr at top by neck and 46 tr at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 87-91-95 tr. Insert a marker after 27-29-33 sts in from each side (= 33-33-29 sts between markers). Then work tr back and forth over these sts while at the same time inc 1 st at every marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 sts on row, inc alternately before and after every marker) and dec 3 sts at beg and end of every row in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP 1 - until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked back and forth = 63-59-47 tr.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work the same way as on left front piece over the 87-91-95 tr in the right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down with 2 strands Alpaca and STRIPES – see explanation above. Begin in the same color as round 13-14-15 on body, continue with stripes as on body.

Ch 28-34-38. Turn and work 1 tr in 5th ch from hook ( = 2 tr), then work 1 tr in every ch = 25-31-35 tr.
ROW 2: Ch 4, 3 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 23-29-33 tr, 4 tr in the last tr = 31-37-41 tr. Turn.
ROW 3, 4 and 5: Ch 4, 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until 1 tr remains, 3 tr in the last tr = 43-49-53 tr. Turn.
ROW 6: Ch 4, 3 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 41-47-51 tr, 4 tr in the last tr = 49-55-59 tr. Turn. Then work 1 tr in every tr, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', dec 1 tr in each side – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 7-5-5 cm / 2 3/4"-2"-2" 5-7-7 more times = 37-39-43 tr. Continue with 1 tr in every tr until sleeve measures approx. 61-61-61 cm / 24"-24"-24" (same in all sizes because of wider shoulders on body). Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 picot edge around the entire body and at the bottom around the sleeves with 2 strands in the last color used as follows: 1 sl st, * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 st, fasten with 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Sew in the sleeves.

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Head band and moebius neck warmer - see pattern 140-16
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Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 140-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Pia Sesterhenn 04.03.2019 - 21:38:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, mmit den Vorderteilen komme ich leider gar nicht klar: die Zunahmen und Abnahmen werden gleichzeitig gemacht ??? Über eine Hilfestellung freue ich mich sehr, da ich die Jacke sehr originell finde. Herzlichen Dank.Viele Grüße Pia Sesterhenn

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 12:02:

Liebe Frau Sesterhenn, ja genau, es wird am Anfang und am Ende jeder Reihe abgenommen - siehe ABNAHMETIPP 1- und gleichzeitg an jede Markierung zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Engnath 03.06.2018 - 11:18:

Ist die Maschenprobe zweifädig analog dem Garnvorschlag zu erstellen? Ich möchte die Jacke mit einem einfädig mit einem Farbverkaufsgarn probieren.

DROPS Design 04.06.2018 kl. 09:18:

Liebe Frau Engnath, wenn Sie 2 Fäden Garngruppe A durch 1 Faden Garngruppe C ersetzen, dann sollen Sie die gleiche Maschenprobe haben - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Jess 20.06.2016 - 10:13:

Can you please clarify how many pieces are needed for the sleeves? If I crochet 1 piece for each sleeve and join that piece together with one side seam, that sleeve is too small to fit into the armhole. So should I be crocheting two sleeve pieces together to make one sleeve,(so 4 sleeve pieces in total?) The armhole is way too big to crochet if only one sleeve piece done.

DROPS Design 20.06.2016 kl. 12:03:

Dear Jess, you have to crochet 2 sleeves - sleeve are worked back and forth, from cap of sleeves down to armhole then to wrist edge, then sewn tog around. You first inc for sleeve cap, then dec along "arm" it self. Happy crocheting!

Karin 12.02.2016 - 13:45:

Hallo, Ik heb het vest nu bijna af. Echter het lijf is wel heel anders uitgevallen alsop de foto, bij mijvalt het achter in twee wijde plooien over mijn rug. Ik heb de kleinste maat genomen, en toch valt het veel te wijd. Verandert dit zodra ik de mouwen aan zai misschien? Ook lijkt het alsof ik met het garen vooral de lichtpaarse kleur waar ik een rand van wil maken niet uitkom. Heel erg mooi patroon verder, maar zou jammer zijn als het niet goed zou vallen.

DROPS Design 10.03.2016 kl. 14:20:

Hoi Karin. Het is helaas moeilijk voor mij om in te schatten op afstand. Maar kloppen de afmetingen wel zoals op de maattekening en de stekenverhouding?

Maritza 11.11.2015 - 01:48:

Hello,i love your patterns,i am crocheting calypso drops 140-22,but I am confused how to start the left side,the large pattern said to count 27 sts from the side ,I marked the 41 sts top and bottom,but I do not understand from witch point I start to count the 27sts,thanks a lot

DROPS Design 11.11.2015 kl. 09:28:

Dear Maritza, the left front piece is worked over 87 sts - insert 2 markers as follows: 27 sts, insert 1 marker, 33 sts, insert 1 marker, 27 sts = 87 sts. Happy crocheting!

Annie 05.08.2015 - 08:08:

Hallo Ook ik ben met dit vest bezig en ik moet nu de mouw innaaien maar de mouwkop in het vest is veeeel breder dan de mouwkop van de mouw . Dit past echt niet . De mouwkop van get vest is 36 cm ongeveer en due van de mouw 18

DROPS Design 05.08.2015 kl. 14:14:

Hoi Annie. Nu weet ik niet welke maat je maakt, maar een mouwkop zal nooit precies dezelfde afmetingen hebben als het armsgat ivm de schuine randen. Het is wel - zoals altijd - heel belangrijk dat de stekenverhouding correct is, of dan kan de afmetingen verkeerd uitkomen.

Sylvia 03.08.2015 - 16:15:

Sorry hoor die woordspeling ook mouwloos is mouwkop

Sylvia 03.08.2015 - 16:13:

Hallo Mouwloos is mouwloos hoor in mijn vorige vraag

Sylvia 03.08.2015 - 15:50:

Hallo Alvast bedankt voor uw reactie maar ik snap het nog niet . 18 cm is toch veel te klein om als mouwkop mee te beginnen ? Je zet de mouwloos vast op het vest en dis begin je toch met 18 cm waardoor de mouwloos erg strak wordt

DROPS Design 04.08.2015 kl. 14:59:

Hoi Sylvia. Sorry, ik was een beetje snel met reageren hier. Het mouw wordt hier inderdaad van boven naar beneden gehaakt en je begint met het haken van de mouwkop heen en weer tot je 43 dstk hebt en de mouwkoop meet 14 cm, hier begin je met het minderen aan beide zijkanten tot je 37 dstk hebt. Dus mouwkop is 14 cm hoog en mouw in totaal 61 cm. Je sluit de mouwnaad tot aan het begin van de mouwkop - de mouwkop wordt in het vestje genaaid.

Sylvia 31.07.2015 - 18:00:

Hallo Ik kom niet uit de mouwen 28 lissen is veel te klein of moet ik per mouw 2 delen haken ?

DROPS Design 03.08.2015 kl. 15:02:

Hoi Sylvia. De lossen niet te strak haken. Je maakt na de 28 l 25 dstk, met de juiste haakstekenverhouding is de omtrek van je mouw ca 18 cm - en je gaat verder meerderen naar in totaal 49 dstk = 35 cm omtrek.

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