DROPS / 138 / 32

Romantic Memories by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket with squares in ”Lima”.

Tags: blankets, square,
DROPS design: Pattern no LI-011
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Measurements: approx. 150 x 115 cm / 59" x 45"

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
400 g color no 0619m, beige
150 g color no 0206m, light beige
150 g color no 7219, pistachio
150 g color no 3145, powder pink
150 g color no 4088, heather
150 g color no 8112, ice blue
150 g color no 6235, gray blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 1 square to measure approx. 15 x 15 cm / 6'' x 6".

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 101.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc with ch 3 and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

BOBBLE START:
Ch 3, work 1 dc – but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc the same way in the same st, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook = 1st bobble on round.

BOBBLE:
Work 1 dc – but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 2 dc the same way in the same st, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook.

PATTERN:
SQUARE 1 = beige
SQUARE 2 = gray blue
SQUARE 3 = pistachio
SQUARE 4 = powder pink
SQUARE 5 = heather
SQUARE 6 = light beige
SQUARE 7 = ice blue
Place squares as shown on fig. 1 (squares are displaced 2 squares to the right on every row).
----------------------------------------------------------

BLANKET:
Work 9 squares with every color = 63 squares in total.

SQUARE:
Worked in the round. Ch 6 on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Lima and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 1, 12 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: ch 4 (= 1st dc + 1 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round - Read CROCHET INFO above, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc and 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 3: Sl st until 1st ch-space and work BOBBLE START - Read explanation above, * ch 3, 1 BOBBLE - Read explanation above - in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 11 times, finish with ch 3, 1 sl st at the top of 1st bobble from beg of round = 12 bobbles and 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: Sl st until 1st ch-space and work BOBBLE START, * ch 2, 1 dc in next BOBBLE, ch 2, 1 BOBBLE in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 11 times, finish with ch 2, 1 dc in next bobble, ch 2, 1 sl st in 1st bobble from beg of round = 12 bobbles, 12 dc and 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: Sl st until 1st ch-space and ch 1, 3 sc in same ch-space, then work 3 sc in every ch-space, end with 1 sl st in first sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 6: Work as follows in 1st sc: ch 3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = 1st corner, * work [ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc] a total of 5 times, ch 2, skip 2 sc, in next sc work as follows: 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = next corner *, repeat from *-* the entire round. When repeating from *-* the last time, do not work 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc but work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 20 sc and 28 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7: Sl st until 1st ch-space, work [ch 1, 1 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc] in same ch-space (= 1st corner), * 1 hdc in the next 2 dc, work 2 hdc in each of the next 6 ch-spaces, 1 hdc in the next 2 dc, [2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc] in ch-space in next corner *. Repeat from *-* the entire round. When repeating from *-* the last time, do not work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] but work 1 sl st in the first of the ch sts in the middle of first corner at beg of round, fasten off.
Work 9 squares with every color = 63 squares in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Work squares tog alongside and then across. Place the squares with 7 squares in width and 9 rows in height - see fig. 1 and read PATTERN above.
Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other WS against WS, and crochet them tog with beige as follows: Work 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on 1st square, ch 3, 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on 2nd square, * ch 3, skip 2 hdc on 1st square, 1 sc in next hdc on 1st square, ch 3, skip 2 hdc on 2nd square, 1 sc in next hdc on 2nd square *, repeat from *-*, finish with ch 3, 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on 1st square, ch 3, 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on 2nd square.
NOTE: Make sure that the transitions between every square are pretty when the squares are worked tog alongside.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire blanket as follows: Work with beige 1 sc in every hdc and 2 sc in every transition between every square.
NOTE: In ch-space in each corner work as follows: 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc. On next round work 1 sc in every sc, in every ch-space in the corner work 1 sc, 2 ch and 1 sc.
Work 1 more round the same way = 3 rounds with sc. Work next round as follows: 1 sc in 1st sc, * skip 2 sc, in next sc work 5 dc with 1 ch between each dc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.04.2019
Correction - 7 ROUND: When repeating from *-* the last time, do not work [2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc] but work 1 sl st in the first of the ch sts in the middle of first corner at beg of round, cut and fasten the thread.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= beige
= gray blue
= pistachio
= powder pink
= heather
= light beige
= ice blue

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 138-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Maria 19.09.2019 - 15:40:

Nel video tutorial alla fine del 7 giro non vengono lavorate le 2 mm a prima dell’ultimo arco. È corretto? Nella descrizione mi sembrava che andassero lavorate. Grazie se mi chiarite il dubbio.

DROPS Design 21.09.2019 kl. 11:32:

Buongiorno Maria. Sono corrette le indicazioni nel testo. I quattro lati devono essere lavorati in modo uguale. Buon lavoro!

AnitaThon 03.07.2019 - 18:36:

Hvordan hekkler jeg overgangen fra en rute til neste. Starter jeg igjen med 1 festmaske i begge buene, eller fortsetter jeg som første rute slutter??? i sikksakk frem og tilbake med 3 luftmasser imellom??

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 13:56:

Hej Anita, du fortsætter i siksak som første rude. God fornøjelse!

Anita Thon 03.07.2019 - 18:31:

Jeg klarer ikke sammenhekklingen av rutene i overgangen. Hvordan starter jeg 2. Rute, når jeg har hekklet sammen de første to:\r\n- med festmarkering som i begynnelsen, eller fortsette som den 1. ruten slutter?

SchmauKe 11.04.2019 - 17:00:

Hallo. Sehr schöne Anleitung. Allerdings habe ich eine Frage zur 7. Runde. Dort steht mit einer Kettmasche in der 3. Luftmasche abschließen. Wenn ich es richtig verstanden habe, beginnt die 7. Runde allerdings nicht mit 3 Luftmaschen sondern mit 1 Luftmasche und einem halben Stäbchen und müsste man dann nicht mit einer Kettmasche im 1. halben Stäbchen enden? Vielleicht stehe ich aber auf dem Schlauch. Vielen Dank schon mal.

DROPS Design 12.04.2019 kl. 10:33:

Liebe Frau Schmauke, am Ende der 7. Runde muss man tatsächlich mit 1 Kettmasche in die erste der 2 Luftmaschen in der Mitte der 1. Ecke, bzw wie im Video gezeigt, Anleitung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Clara 13.02.2019 - 20:16:

Salve, non mi è chiaro come assemblare i vari quadrati nel confezionare la coperta, con che criterio devo unirli???grazie mille

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 06:42:

Buongiorno Clara, per confezionare la coperta deve guardare il disegno che illustra come posizionare i quadrati e iniziare ad unirli a strisce e poi in verticale. Li deve posizionare rovescio contro rovescio e lavorare come indicato nel paragrafo CONFEZIONE. Buon lavoro!

Susanne 14.12.2017 - 16:43:

Hallo, ich habe diese Decke nach Anleitung gehäkelt und bin super happy, wie toll sie geworden ist. Sie sieht genau so aus wie auf dem angezeigten Bild. Ich fand die grannys sehr leicht zu häkeln. Eine große Herausforderung war definitv die richtige Anordnung der Farben beim Zusammenhäkeln. Aber auch das ist zu bewältigen. Ich habe viele Komplimente und neue Anfragen für die Decke bekommen. ;-) Vielen Dank für diese tolle Anleitung. Liebe Grüße, Susanne

Caro 21.11.2017 - 14:47:

Hallo! Ich habe die Quadrate gehäkelt und verstehe nicht,wie sie zusammengehäkelt werden sollen.Immer nur 2 Quadrate und dann die Fäden abschneiden oder eine Reihe hintereinander? Danke für eine Antwort.

DROPS Design 21.11.2017 kl. 16:26:

Liebe Caro, die Quadraten werden zuerst waagrecht zusammengehäkelt, dh Quadrate 1 (untere Reihe in der Skizze) mit Quadrate 6, dann Quadrate 2 mit Quadrate 7 usw bis letzte (= 7 und 5). Dann die 3. Reihe mit den 2. zshäkeln (Quadrate 6 und 4, dann 7 und 5...) usw bis alle Reihe zsgehäkelt sind. Dann senkrecht zshäkeln: Quadrate 1und2 (unten links) zshäkeln, dann 7 und 6 usw bis oben 7 und 6 und dann die 3. Reihe mit den 2. Reihe genauso zshäkeln. Ein Video dafür finden Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim zusammenhäkeln!

Birgit 23.02.2015 - 14:19:

Bonjour, une petite question concernant l'assemblage des carrés, faut-il couper la laine à chaque fois, monter les carrés deux par deux pour faire une bande verticale, puis faire la même chose pour obtenir une bande horizontale et ensuite comment procéder pour assembler le tout ? Merci de votre réponse :)

DROPS Design 23.02.2015 kl. 17:16:

Bonjour Birgit, on assemble les carrés 2 par 2 en bandes d'abord dans un sens (horizontal par ex soit les carrés 5 et 7 puis continuez avec les carrés 4 et puis les carrés 3 et 5 et ainsi de suite), puis assemblez les bandes en hauteur de la même façon (de droite à gauche: les carrés 7 et 6 puis 5 et 4, 3 et 2 etc). Bon crochet!

Leona 06.02.2015 - 10:04:

Hej! Jag ska snart virka ihop rutorna. Då de ska virkas ihop på längden först så innebär det att man fäster trådar efter varje två rutor som virkas ihop? Blir bättre sen då man virkar ihop längderna, då blir det bara efter varje remsa. Tänker jag rätt? (har varit underbart rolig att virka)

DROPS Design 09.02.2015 kl. 10:51:

Hej Leona, det kanske går att virka hela längden ihop 2 och 2, men blir det för svårt så måste du fästa trådar efter varje. Lycka till!

DROPS Design 08.10.2014 - 13:36:

Dear all of you, we are happy to announce you that a video showing how to crochet the square is now available. Happy crocheting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 138-32

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.