DROPS / 139 / 39

Orange Blossom by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket with different squares in ”Paris”.

DROPS design: Pattern no W-435
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. 92 x 136 cm / 36 1/4" x 53½"

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
500 g color no 17, off white
200 g color no 13, orange
200 g color no 38, raspberry
100 g color no 01, apricot
100 g color no 14, strong yellow
100 g color no 33, medium pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Each square should measure approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8¾" x 8¾".

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100% Cotton
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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Replace first dc on every round/row with ch 3.
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BLANKET:
The blanket consists of 4 kinds of squares. Work 6 squares of each kind = a total of 24 squares. READ CROCHET TIP!

SQUARE 1 (= 1 large flower):
Ch 4 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with strong yellow and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 1, 8 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc, cut the yarn.
ROUND 2 (switch to medium pink): ch 6 (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc with 3 ch between each.
ROUND 3: ch 1, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves, cut the yarn.
ROUND 4 (switch to raspberry): ch 7, * 1 sc between the next 2 leaves, ch 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: ch 1, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves, cut the yarn.
ROUND 6 (switch to orange): ch 10, * 1 sc between the next 2 leaves, ch 9 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7: ch 1, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 5 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the yarn and pull it through st on hook.
ROUND 8 (switch to off white): Start with 1 sc in first tr on first leaf, ch 3 (= 1 dc), * ch 8 (= corner), skip 3 tr, 1 dc in last tr on same leaf, ch 5, 1 sc in first tr on next leaf, ch 5, skip 3 tr, 1 sc in last tr on same leaf, ch 5, 1 dc in first tr on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in 1st tr on next leaf).
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in 8-ch-space, * 4 dc + ch 4 + 4 dc in ch-space in the corner, (4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, ch 4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 10: * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, in ch-space in the corner work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 4 dc in each of the next 4 ch-spaces, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. There are now 30 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner.
Cut the yarn. Square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8¾" x 8¾".

SQUARE 2 (= 4 small flowers):
There are 4 different color combinations on the small squares.
Square A: Color 1 = raspberry, color 2 = strong yellow.
Square B: Color 1 = orange, color 2 = raspberry.
Square C: Color 1 = medium pink, color 2 = orange.
Square D: Color 1 = strong yellow, color 2 = apricot.
Finish all squares with off white.
Work 6 squares in every color combination.

Ch 4 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with color 1 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 1, 8 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc, cut the yarn.
ROUND 2 (switch to color 2): ch 5 (= 1 sc + 4 ch), * 1 sc in next sc, ch 4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 sc with 4 ch between each.
ROUND 3: ch 1, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the yarn.
ROUND 4 (switch to off white): Work 1 sc at the top of first leaf, * 8 ch, 1 sc at the top of next leaf, ch 3, 1 sc at the top of next leaf *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 5: * In ch-space in the corner work: 5 dc + ch 2 + 5 dc, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round, cut the yarn. 1 square = approx. 11 x 11 cm / 4 3/8" x 4 3/8".

Work 1 square in every color combination. Sew tog into a large square – sew edge to edge with off white and 1 stitch in every st. Square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8¾" x 8¾".

SQUARE 3 (= stripes):
Ch 31 LOOSELY with raspberry, turn piece.
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in 4th ch, then work 1 dc in every ch = 29 dc (first dc = 3 ch).
ROW 2 (switch to apricot): NOTE: Do not cut the threads for each stripe but let them follow upwards along the edge.
Ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 14 ch-spaces, turn piece.
ROW 3 (switch to off white): Ch 1, then 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every ch = 29 sc.
ROW 4 (switch to raspberry): Work 1 dc in every sc.
Repeat rows 2-4 until piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' – finish after 4th row. Then work 1 round with off white and dc around the entire square - adjust so that there are 30 dc along all sides, work also 2 ch in every corner, cut the thread. Square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8¾" x 8¾".

SQUARE 4:
Work as square 3 but beg with orange, then work row 1 and 4 with orange, row 2 with medium pink and row 3 with strong yellow.

ASSEMBLY:
Place squares against each other as shown on diagram – M.1. Sew them tog edge to edge with off white and 1 stitch in every st.

FINISHING EDGE:
Work 2 rounds with dc and off white around the entire blanket, in every corner work: 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc on both rounds. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.09.2016
Square 1:...ROUND 8 (switch to off white): Start with 1 sc in first tr on first leaf, ch 3 (= 1 dc), * ch 8 (= corner), skip 3 tr, 1 dc in last tr on same leaf,

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (61)

Neethu Varghese 14.07.2017 - 05:14:

Love all your patterns, great work, I love all the crochet pattern you have on your website and its great that you are giving all these designs for free, great work, i am trying to do the orange blossom and i have question on step 9, you said, repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, but whats (-) i cant quite make from the step although i understood, i have to repeat from *-*, can you please help, i saw the video but its only till 7, can you please do a video for the whole flower

DROPS Design 14.07.2017 kl. 10:09:

Dear Mrs Varghese, you have to repeat (4 ch, 1 tr(UK-English)/1 dc (US-English) in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, ie you will have 4 ch, 1 tr/1 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr/1 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr/1 dc. Then repeat from the first * to the last *. Happy crocheting!

Natalie 24.04.2017 - 12:44:

I'd be grateful if you could advise me how best to work the trebles around the sides of the striped squares. I have tried working around the posts and I have tried picking up stitches by working into the sides of the posts, but both ways look untidy.

DROPS Design 24.04.2017 kl. 13:01:

Dear Natalie, I think it is best to crochet the last treble in each row at the top of the 3 chain stitch (into the 3. ch st), with wich the previous row began (replacing the first treble). The edges will be sewn together later and a border will be crocheted, so the edges will be hidden anyway. I hope this helps, happy crocheting!

Margherita Hurford 23.11.2016 - 08:22:

This is lovely thank you for the pattern. I see a photo with a different colour combination can you tell me what those colours are please?

DROPS Design 23.11.2016 kl. 09:41:

Dear Mrs Hurford, Paris is available in many colours - see here - Do not hesitate to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone - they'll find you the combination in your favorite colours. Happy crocheting!

Sheila 28.09.2016 - 17:48:

I am crocheting the main flower, for which there is a video. However, I cannot understand the instruction on Row 8 at the beginning. THe video stops at Row 7. PLease can you help?

DROPS Design 29.09.2016 kl. 08:40:

Dear Sheila, on round 8 you will have to crochet ch-spaces to make a square, crocheting only in the 1st and last dtr on each leaf, start with 1 dc in 1st dtr, 3 ch (= 1st tr for the corner), 8 ch (= corner), 1 tr (not 1 dc) in 5th dtr on same leaf, *5 ch, skip to next leaf and work: 1 dc in 1st dtr on this leaf, 5 ch, 1 dc in last dtr, 5 ch, skip to next leaf and work 1 tr in 1st dtr, 8 ch (corner), 1 tr in last dtr on same leaf, and repeat from *-* = 4 corners with 8-ch-spaces and 3 5-ch-spaces along each side. Happy crocheting!

Jordan 16.07.2016 - 20:18:

I am having a hard time with square 3 and 4 i am not understanding the drop of color then picking it back up it seems like it will be a mess trying to sew to the next square any helpful videos or suggestions to help?

DROPS Design 18.07.2016 kl. 09:11:

Dear Jordan, the video below shows how to change colours when working back and forth - you can cut the yarn at the end of each row or pick up the colour from previous stripe, making sure to tighten strand enough to avoid loose ends from WS but not to contract piece in height. Happy crocheting!

Irene 16.06.2016 - 13:03:

Hi there when I look at the picture of large square orange blossom it seems at the end you have added another row all around (final row) after completing off white chain rows but this is not included in the pattern - pls can you tell me what you did here and which stitch to use thanks Irene

DROPS Design 16.06.2016 kl. 13:47:

Dear Irene, there are 3 rounds with off-white at the end of square 1 (with large flower) - squares are then sewn tog with off-white, this may be the one you are seeing. Happy crocheting!

Maria 16.06.2016 - 10:56:

Britisch=tr. Amerikanisch=dc.

Alexandra 15.06.2016 - 11:16:

Ich habe mich etwas falsch ausgedrückt. Ich meinte natürlich Reihen. Aber wenn man in die Englische Sprache schaut, steht als Abkürzung bei besagten Abschnitten "tr" und das bedeutet doch Doppelstäbchen, oder? Und bei Viereck 3, 2. Reihe steht folgende Abfolge: 1 Stb, 1 Lm, 1 Stb, 1 Stb in das nächste Stäbchen. Laut der Englischen Übersetzung (und den Bildern) müsste aber ein Stäbchen übersprungen ("skip") werden und danach, wie schon geschrieben ein Stb in das nächste Stb...

DROPS Design 16.06.2016 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Alexandra, vielen Dank für den Hinweis, es fehlte das Wort "überspringen" und wir haben gleich eine Korrektur vorgenommen. Es handelt sich aber wirklich um Stb. Die Bezeichnung dafür ist in britischem Englisch dc und im amerikanischen Englisch tr.

Alexandra 13.06.2016 - 16:03:

Kann es sein, dass in der Englischen Version bei Viereck 3 bei Natur in der letzten Runde Doppelstäbchen statt Stäbchen benutzt werden und bei Viereck 3 ab Reihe 2 auch?

DROPS Design 14.06.2016 kl. 21:17:

Liebe Alexandra, überprüfen Sie bitte Ihre Frage nochmals? Viereck 3 wird in Reihen gehäkelt und die letzte Reihe ist in koralle.

Mitra 03.01.2016 - 11:12:

Hi, how how I should change the color? when I cut the yarn what I crochet become open

DROPS Design 04.01.2016 kl. 09:31:

Dear Mitra, the video below shows how to work the flower on square 1 and how to change colour. Happy crocheting!

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