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Orange Blossom by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket with different squares in ”Paris”.

Keywords: blanket, floral, granny square, patchwork, square

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DROPS 139-39
DROPS design: Pattern no W-435
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. 92 x 136 cm

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
500 g colour no 17, off white
200 g colour no 13, orange
200 g colour no 38, raspberry
100 g colour no 01, apricot
100 g colour no 14, strong yellow
100 g colour no 33, medium pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 14 tr x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Each square should measure approx. 22 x 22 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.10 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on every round/row with 3 ch.
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BLANKET:
The blanket consists of 4 kinds of squares. Work 6 squares of each kind = a total of 24 squares. READ CROCHET TIP!

SQUARE 1 (= 1 large flower):
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 5 mm with strong yellow and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 1 ch, 8 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc, cut the thread.
ROUND 2 (switch to medium pink): Work 6 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), * 1 tr in next dc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 tr with 3 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 3 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves, cut the thread.
ROUND 4 (switch to raspberry): Work 7 ch, * 1 dc between the next 2 leaves, 6 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 5: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 5 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves, cut the thread.
ROUND 6 (switch to orange): Work 10 ch, * 1 dc between the next 2 leaves, 9 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 7: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 5 dtr, 1 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the thread and pull it through st on hook.
ROUND 8 (switch to off white): Start with 1 dc in first dtr on first leaf, 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 8 ch (= corner), skip 3 dtr, 1 tr in last dtr on same leaf, 5 ch, 1 dc in first dtr on next leaf, 5 ch, skip 3 dtr, 1 dc in last dtr on same leaf, 5 ch, 1 tr in first dtr on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 tr in 1st dtr on next leaf).
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in 8-ch-loop, * 4 tr + 4 ch + 4 tr in ch-loop in the corner, (4 ch, 1 tr in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 1 sl st in first tr from beg of round.
ROUND 10: * 1 tr in each of the first 4 tr, in ch-loop in the corner work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, 4 tr in each of the next 4 ch-loops, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish round with 1 sl st in first tr from beg of round. There are now 30 tr along each side and 2 ch in every corner.
Cut the thread. Square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm.

SQUARE 2 (= 4 small flowers):
There are 4 different colour combinations on the small squares.
Square A: Colour 1 = raspberry, colour 2 = strong yellow.
Square B: Colour 1 = orange, colour 2 = raspberry.
Square C: Colour 1 = medium pink, colour 2 = orange.
Square D: Colour 1 = strong yellow, colour 2 = apricot.
Finish all squares with off white.
Work 6 squares in every colour combination.

Crochet 4 ch on hook size 5 mm with colour 1 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 1 ch, 8 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc, cut the thread.
ROUND 2 (switch to colour 2): Work 5 ch (= 1 dc + 4 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 dc with 4 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 2 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the thread.
ROUND 4 (switch to off white): Work 1 dc at the top of first leaf, * 8 ch, 1 dc at the top of next leaf, 3 ch, 1 dc at the top of next leaf *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.
ROUND 5: * In ch-loop in the corner work: 5 tr + 2 ch + 5 tr, 4 tr in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 1 sl st in first tr from beg of round, cut the thread. 1 square = approx. 11 x 11 cm.

Work 1 square in every colour combination. Sew tog into a large square – sew edge to edge with off white and 1 stitch in every st. Square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm.

SQUARE 3 (= stripes):
Work 31 LOOSE ch with raspberry, turn piece.
ROW 1: Work 1 tr in 4th ch, then work 1 tr in every ch = 29 tr (first tr = 3 ch).
ROW 2 (switch to apricot): NOTE: Do not cut the threads for each stripe but let them follow upwards along the edge.
Work 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, * 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 14 ch-loops, turn piece.
ROW 3 (switch to off white): Work 1 ch, then 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc in every ch = 29 dc.
ROW 4 (switch to raspberry): Work 1 tr in every dc.
Repeat rows 2-4 until piece measures approx. 20 cm – finish after 4th row. Then work 1 round with off white and tr around the entire square - adjust so that there are 30 tr along all sides, work also 2 ch in every corner, cut the thread. Square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm.

SQUARE 4:
Work as square 3 but beg with orange, then work row 1 and 4 with orange, row 2 with medium pink and row 3 with strong yellow.

ASSEMBLY:
Place squares against each other as shown on diagram – M.1. Sew them tog edge to edge with off white and 1 stitch in every st.

FINISHING EDGE:
Work 2 rounds with tr and off white around the entire blanket, in every corner work: 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr on both rounds. Cut and fasten the threads.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.09.2016
Square 1:...ROUND 8 (switch to off white): Start with 1 dc in first dtr on first leaf, 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 8 ch (= corner), skip 3 dtr, 1 tr in last dtr on same leaf...

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (66)

country flag Natasha wrote:

Hei, nydelig teppe. Jeg har et spørsmål til de små blomstene. I omg 3 hekles 6 masker med 2 st i midten, i rad 4 står det 1fm i toppen av bladet. Hva tenker dere er toppen av bladet, velger dere kun en av stavene tilfeldig eller settes fm i mellomrommet mellom disse to stavene slik at det blir akkurat på midten?

24.09.2023 - 09:54

country flag Reidun Lindstad wrote:

Finnes mønsteret på norsk mvh Reidun Lindstad

11.03.2023 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Reidun, Du velger språk i boksen under fotoen. Der finner du oppskriften på norsk. God fornøyelse!

13.03.2023 - 07:11

country flag Marchal wrote:

Mich wundert, dass für dieses Modell unter anderen die Farbe „Koralle“ vorgesehen ist. Dennoch ist sie nicht zu kaufen, auch bei Paris nicht. Ich möchte die Decke mit der Wolle Baby Merino machen. Welche Farbe würden Sie mir statt Koralle empfehlen, damit das ganze diese frische freche Note beibehält? Gerade Koralle gibt die Originalität der Decke. Sehr Schade, dass es sie nicht gibt. Vielen Dank.

04.11.2022 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Marchal, die Name dieser Farbe Nr 38 wurde inzwischen aktualisiert, aber diese Farbe gibt es immer noch - für jegliche Unterstützung bei der Wahl der Farben wenden Sie Sie bitte an Ihrem DROPS Händler, dort wird man Ihnen am besten die besten passenden Farben - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail- empfehlen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.11.2022 - 07:47

country flag Helen Few wrote:

I have just completed a superking size blanket for my daughter using your Orange Blossom pattern. I had no problems with the pattern and enjoyed every minute I spent working on it. I made 110 squares, 11 rows by 10 squares using 50g balls of White 40, Apricot 6 Yellow 7 pink 7 Raspberry 13 Orange 15. Email address please so I can send photo. It took 4.5 months to make. I am 84 years old and crochet slowly now due to arthritis in my fingers.

03.09.2021 - 19:21

country flag Karen Burger wrote:

Hi, please advise where I can download the diagram. Thank you Karen

05.11.2020 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Burger, we do not have any diagram to this pattern, only written pattern - our related videos might help you. Happy crocheting!

05.11.2020 - 13:11

country flag Melanie wrote:

Can these squares be crocheted together instead of sewn please?

02.03.2020 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Melanie, sure you can crochet them together instead of sewing them together if you rather. Happy crocheting!

02.03.2020 - 11:21

country flag Leisa Roberts wrote:

Hi how can I download and print this off please

03.07.2019 - 01:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ms. Roberts, you can print the patttern by clicking on the icon "print: pattern" at any time. Choosing a virtual printer will allow you to save it as a .PDF file. Happy crocheting!

03.07.2019 - 06:52

country flag Laurie wrote:

This pattern makes no sense at all poorly written !

06.05.2019 - 04:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laurie, we are sorry to hear you have some troubles with the pattern. There are hundred of ways to write or format crochet patterns, and our patterns might be written a way you are not used to, you may just try to read it again with new eyes. Looking our tutorial videos to this pattern could also help you. For any further individual assistance reading our patterns and diagrams you are welcome to contact your DROPS store where you bought your yarn. Happy crocheting!

06.05.2019 - 10:57

country flag Lindyloowho wrote:

Good morning. Love this blanket. Please can I check for the striped square, should the work be turned at the end of every row or just row 2? Thank you.

21.04.2019 - 10:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lindyloowho, you turn the work at the end of every row in the striped square. Only the finishing border is worked in round around whole square. Happy crocheting!

21.04.2019 - 13:35

country flag Liliana Gomez Lopez wrote:

HI. I LOVE THIS PATTERN AND I AM GOING TO DO IT. IN MY COUNTRY WE USUALLY DO DIAGRAMAS TO CROCHET.IT IS EASIER TO FOLLOW AND IT MAY BE USED FOR ALL OVER THE WORLD WITHOUT THE NEED TO KNOW AND UNDERSTAND THE LANGUAGE. THANK YOU.

22.02.2019 - 18:04

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