DROPS / 155 / 10

Lila Sun by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in "Big Merino". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no mb-010
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL /XXXL
Chest measurements: 88/96 – 104/114 – 126/138 cm
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio
550-650-800 g colour no 09, lavender

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 tr x 8 rows with tr = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Big Merino mix DROPS Big Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Big Merino uni colour DROPS Big Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace first tr on every round/row with 3 ch.
Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
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CIRCLE:
Work 4 ch on hook size 5 mm with Big Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Continue to work in the ring.
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 3 ch + 11 tr in ch-ring = 12 tr.
ROUND 2: Work 2 tr in every tr = 24 tr.
ROUND 3: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 tr.
ROUND 4: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 5: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 tr.
ROUND 6: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 tr.
ROUND 7: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84 tr. Stop here in size S/M.
ROUND 8: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 9: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 tr. Stop here in size L/XL.
ROUND 10: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 11: * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 7 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 tr. The circle now measures approx. 18-23-28 cm in diameter.

ALL SIZES (= 84-96-108 tr):
ROUND 12: * 3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 42-48-54 ch-spaces.
ROUND 13: Work sl sts until mid of first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr in last ch-space and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 21-24-27 tr-groups with 1 tr between each.
ROUND 14: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr-group as on previous row in ch-space in every tr-group.
ROUND 15: 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in ch-space in mid of tr-group, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in ch-space in mid of last tr-group and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 16: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr-group as on previous row in ch-space in every tr-group.
ROUND 17: 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in ch-space in mid of tr-group, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in ch-space in mid of last tr-group and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 18: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr-group as on previous row in ch-space in every tr-group.
ROUND 19: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), * 4 dtr + 2 ch + 4 dtr in ch-space in mid of tr-group, 1 dtr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 4 dtr + 2 ch + 4 dtr in ch-space in mid of last tr-group and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
ROUND 20: Work 1 dtr in every dtr and 1 tr-group as on previous row in ch-space in every tr-group.
ROUND 21: 8 ch, * work 1 dc in 2 ch in the middle of next fan, 5 ch, 1 tr in next dtr, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* finish with 1 dc in 2 ch in the middle of next fan, 5 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 42-48-54 ch-spaces.
ROUND 22: Work 6 tr in every ch-space = 252-288-324 tr.
ROUND 23: Work 1 tr in each of the first 30-36-42 tr, work 30-36-42 ch, skip the next 30-36-42 tr, work 1 tr in each of the next 132-144-156 tr, work 30-36-42 ch, skip the next 30-36-42 tr, work 1 tr in each of the last 30-36-42 tr. (Round beg = mid back of neck.)
ROUND 24: Work 1 tr in every tr and 30-36-42 tr in every ch-space, AT THE SAME TIME inc 28-20-12 tr evenly on round = 280-308-336 tr. Piece measures approx. 56-61-66 cm in diameter.
ROUND 25: Work 1 dc in first tr, * 5 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 70-77-84 ch-spaces.
ROUND 26: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, 1 dc, * work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 27: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, 1 dc, ** work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space, 5 ch, 1 dc in same ch-space, * work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 6 times **, repeat from **-** and finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 80-88-96 spaces.
ROUND 28: Work as 26th round.
ROUND 29: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, 1 dc, ** work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space, 5 ch, 1 dc in same ch-space, * work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 7 times **, repeat from **-** and finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 90-99-108 spaces.
ROUND 30: Work as 26th round.

Piece now measures approx. 75-80-85 cm in diameter, cut the yarn.
Continue working only over 26-28-30 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 19-21-24 ch-spaces at top by neck and 19-22-24 ch-spaces at bottom of back. Continue with explanation below left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 26-28-30 ch-spaces. Continue as follows:
ROW 1: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, 1 dc, * work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc in last ch-space = 25-27-29 ch-spaces.
Repeat 1st row 12-14-16 times in total (= approx. 12-14-16 cm). 14 ch-spaces remain at the edge of front piece. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 26-28-30 ch-spaces in the right side. Cut the yarn.

FINISHING EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire circle as follows: In every space work 4 dtr + 2 ch + 4 dtr. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Worked top down.
Work 45-53-65 ch with Big Merino on hook size 5 mm. Turn and work 1 dc in 9th ch from hook, * 5 ch, skip 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* = 10-12-15 ch-spaces.
ROW 1: Work 5 ch, 1 dc in first ch-space, 5 ch, 1 dc in same ch-space, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 5 ch, 1 dc in last ch-space = 11-13-16 ch-spaces.
Repeat 1st row 4 more times = 15-17-20 ch-spaces.
Continue to work as follows:
ROW 6: Work 5 ch, 1 dc in first ch-space, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 5 ch, 1 dc in last ch-space = 15-17-20 ch-spaces.
ROW 7: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 5 ch, 1 dc in last ch-space = 14-16-19 ch-spaces.
ROW 8-11: Work as 6th row.
ROW 12: Work as 7th row = 13-15-18 ch-spaces.
Repeat rows 8 to 12 - i.e. dec 1 ch-space in the side every 5th row - dec alternately in right and left side of sleeve. Repeat these 5 rows 4-5-7 more times (= 6-7-9 dec in total) = 9-10-11 ch-spaces on row. Continue to work as row 1 until piece measures 56 cm in all sizes. Place sleeve double and work tog mid under as follows - work from RS through both layers: Work * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 dc. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Work sleeve tog with armhole as follows: Work from RS through both layers: Work * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire armhole.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 155-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Isolina Marchi 06.06.2019 - 18:18:

Per la giacchina a ruota mod 010 drops 155/10 il diametro del cerchio prima del motivo è 23cm però le maglie sono 136 invece che 108 uncinetto 2,5 il motivo viene lo stesso con questo uncinetto? Grazie mille ho difficoltà le maglie sono troppe perché dovrebbero essere 108

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 21:25:

Buongiorno Isolina. Molto probabilmente la tensione del suo lavoro è diversa da quella indicata nel testo. L’uncinetto è più piccolo e quindi avrà bisogno di un numero maggiore di maglie per ottenere le stesse misure. Purtroppo in questa sede non ci è possibile fornire un’assistenza così personalizzata. Può però rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia che saprà indicarle come proseguire con il lavoro. Buon lavoro!

Elma Beck 17.05.2019 - 12:49:

Rund 27 ist unklar gekennzeichnet mit den **von** und *von*. Ist unverständlich, bitte prüfen und mich informieren.

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 08:48:

Liebe Frau Beck, so sollen Sie häkeln: ** 5 Lm, 1 fM in den nächsten Lm-Bogen, 5 Lm, 1 fM in den gleichen Lm-Bogen (= 2 Luftmaschenbogen), dann häkeln Sie 6 Mal insgesamt: * 5 Lm, 1 fM in den nächsten Lm-Bogen(=6 Luftmaschenbogen) * = Sie haben jetzt 8 Luftmaschenbogen gehäkelt, 1 Rapport ist fertig **, jetzt wiederholen Sie das ganze Rapport von ** bis ** = dh 8 weitere Luftmaschenbogen wie zuvor, und so bis zur Ende der Runde arbeiten. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Dotty Hazell 09.07.2018 - 05:18:

Hi again. I'm on row 27 and I think there is an error. On my first attempt at this row it didn't work out right. My interpretation on the *-* section is that you do a total of 7 x work ch 5, sc 1 in next ch space. This didn't work so I'm about to try to repeat this section 5 times instead of 6 (total of 6) the math suggests this will work evenly.

Dotty Hazell 09.07.2018 - 05:06:

Hi I worked it out. It's the way the pattern is written that confused me. The alternate rows 14, 16, 18, 20 are repeats of the row above. Eg row 14 is the same as row 13

Dotty 05.07.2018 - 04:34:

Hi I\'m in Australia.\r\nI\'ve just started this pattern for my daughter but I\'m a bit confused with row 14. Do you have a graph version of the pattern which might make it easier for me to follow please?

DROPS Design 05.07.2018 kl. 07:09:

Dear Dotty, unfortunately we do not have a charted pattern for this design, only the written out instructions. What is exactly that confuses you? Also, please do not forget, that you can always get help in person in the store you bought your DROPS yarn fom. happy Crafting!

Alison 28.04.2017 - 09:18:

I don't understand the instructions to join the sleeve seams

DROPS Design 28.04.2017 kl. 13:42:

Dear Alison, this video shows how to crochet 2 pieces tog, work the same way, crocheting alternately 1 dc in sleeve and 1 dc in edge around armhole. Happy crocheting!

Petra Eng-Schweikert 02.08.2015 - 21:13:

Meiner Ansicht nach stimmen Bild / Skizze nicht mit der Anleitung überein. Ich bin bei Runde 20 und sehe auf dem Bild, dass die Armlöcher schon fertig sein sollten, laut Anleitung kommen sie aber erst in Runde 23. Laut der Skizze sollten die Armlöcher bei ca 40 cm Durchmesser beginnen, laut Anleitung aber erst bei 61 cm. Was ist richtig? Bitte um schnelle Antwort, da ich Ferien habe und unbedingt weiterhäkeln möchte! Herzliche Grüße Petra

DROPS Design 07.08.2015 kl. 09:38:

Halten Sie sich auf jeden Fall an die Anleitung. Sie können die Jacke auch zwischendurch anprobieren und schauen, ob sie gut sitzt, beachten Sie, dass sie sich durch das Muster auch noch leicht dehnt.

Joanne McDonald 02.08.2015 - 18:42:

Hello. I'm stuck on row 21. I understand what I do in the fan sections but I am confused by what goes in-between?? Can anyone help me please?

DROPS Design 03.08.2015 kl. 09:54:

Dear Mrs McDonald, start round 21 with 8 ch, then work * work 1 dc (UK-English) / sc (US-English) in 2 ch in the middle of next fan, 5 ch, 1 tr (UK-English)/dc (US-English) in next dtr (UK-English)/tr (US-English), 5 ch *, repeat from *-* finish with 1 dc (UK-English) / 1 sc (US-English) in 2 ch in the middle of next fan, 5 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round, you have a total of 42-48-54 ch-spaces at the end of round 21. Happy crocheting!

Schwarz Renáta 18.12.2014 - 21:07:

A minta leírása, fordítása hiányos, az ujjai leírása egyáltalán nincsen meg, de összehasonlítva az angol mintaleírással a bal illetve jobb eleje sincsen leírva.

Anja Den Hartogh 01.11.2014 - 12:29:

Ik ben dit patroon aan het haken met Drops Paris garen. Nu ben ik bij toer 14, en vanaf toer12 begint het erg te bobbelen net of er teveel stokjes in de toer zitten terwijl in het patroon staat dat op elk stokje een stokje moet en in de losse lus een stokjes groep. Hoe kan ik de stokjes minderen zonder dat het werk weer te open word? vriendelijke groet, Anja den Hartogh

DROPS Design 06.11.2014 kl. 14:06:

Hoi Anja. Het werk zal zich recht trekken als je verder gaat. Het kan meer hobbelig lijken met Paris ipv Big Merino (katoen ipv wol), maar ik verwacht dat het goed komt. Vertrouw je het niet, dan kan je proberen te minderen en aan te passen.

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