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  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Vests & Tops
  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 21
  6. 8

Junior by DROPS Design

Knitted vest with V-neck and textured pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk

Keywords: bottom up, pocket, relief, sleeveless, v-neck, vest

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DROPS Baby 21-8
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-036-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (100-150) colour no 19, grey

Or use:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) colour no 8465, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm (60 or 80 cm) - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm (60 or 80 cm) - for rib.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 4 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 2.65 € /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.65 € /50g
Trgovinca iNCA 		Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.65 € /50g
Trgovinca iNCA 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.30€. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DOUBLE MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: P over K and K over P.
Row 4: As row 2.
Repeat row 1 to 4.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right band. 1 button hole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 2, 6, 10 and 14 cm.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 2, 7, 11 and 16 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 8, 13 and 19 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm.

DEC FOR V-NECK AND ARMHOLES IN DOUBLE MOSS ST:
All dec are done from RS!
DEC AS FOLLOWS BEFORE BAND/SLEEVE EDGE:
When last st should be K: K 2 tog.
When last st should be P: P 2 tog.
DEC AS FOLLOWS AFTER BAND/SLEEVE EDGE:
When first st should be K: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
When first st should be P: P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 148-168-184 (204-224) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work first row as follows from RS: 5 sts in GARTER ST (= band) - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 5 sts in GARTER ST (= band). Continue rib like this with 5 sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 3-3-4 (4-5) cm - REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES on band - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work in stocking st but continue bands in garter st as before. AT THE SAME TIME on first row after rib, dec 32-36-40 (44-52) sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 116-132-144 (160-172) sts. Insert a marker 31-35-39 (43-45) sts in from each side (= 54-62-66 (74-82) sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 7-7½-8 (9-10) cm, work next row as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, 21-21-27 (27-31) sts in stocking st, slip the last 16-16-20 (20-24) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, work until 10-10-12 (12-12) sts remain on needle, slip the last 16-16-20 (20-24) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, work 5-5-7 (7-7) sts in stocking st and finish with 5 sts in garter st. On next row cast on 16-16-20 (20-24) new sts over each of the 2 stitch holders with sts = 116-132-144 (160-172) sts. Continue in stocking st and in garter st until piece measures 13-14-16 (16-18) cm. Now K 4 rows over all sts (= 2 ridges). Then work DOUBLE MOSS ST - see explanation above (continue bands in garter st as before). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! When piece measures 15-17-18 (20-21) cm, work 2 rows in garter st over the first 5 sts on needle (do not work the other sts on needle), then work 1 row over all sts before working 2 rows in garter st over the first 5 sts on needle in the other side of piece (this is done so that the V-neck looks nice). Then dec for V-neck - see explanation above: Dec 1 st every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 12-13-16 (16-16) times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-19 (20-22) cm, work 4 rows in garter st over the middle 18-20-20 (20-20) sts in each side (i.e. over 9-10-10 (10-10) sts on each side of both markers) – work the other sts as before. On next row, cast off the middle 8-10-10 (10-10) sts in each side for armhole and finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 46-52-56 (64-72) sts. Work double moss st with 5 sts in garter st in each side (= sleeve edges). AT THE SAME TIME dec for armholes - see explanation above: Dec 1 st every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) a total of 5-6-6 (6-6) times = 36-40-44 (52-60) sts. Continue in double moss st and in garter st until piece measures 24-26-29 (31-34) cm. Now work in garter st over all sts until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 25-27-30 (32-35) cm, cast off the middle 16-18-20 (20-24) sts for neck = 10-11-12 (16-18) sts remain on each shoulder. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue with garter st until piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with double moss st and in garter st while AT THE SAME TIME dec for armhole in the side as on back piece and continue dec for V-neck as before. After last dec, 10-11-12 (16-18) sts remain on needle. Work garter st over all sts until piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm and cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

POCKET SLIT:
Slip the 16-16-20 (20-24) sts from stitch holder on one front piece back on needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib K2/P2 with 1 st in garter st and K 2 in each side (seen from RS). When pocket slit measures 2½-2½-3 (3-3) cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Sew pocket slit to front piece with duplicate sts in each side. Sew pocket opening to bottom of pocket slit (where sts were put on a stitch holder) on the back of piece. Work another pocket slit the same way on the other front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (194)

country flag Apeksha Rathod wrote:

From your previous reply, I understood that I have to reduce 16 sts on each side of the neck & 6 sts on each armhole in the front. So I will have 28 sts on each shoulder in the front (50-16-6=28). But in the back, I have 18 sts left on each shoulder. Clearly, I am wrong somewhere. Pls, guide me. Also if you could make it clear if I have to start reducing the neck & the armhole at the same time, that'll be great!

24.06.2023 - 07:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Apeksha, when the piece measures 21 cm, you will start decreasing: decrease 1 st for the neck on each side on every RS row for the next 16 RS rows. When the piece measures 22 cm, continue with the neck decreases and work the garter stitch rows and cast off the middle sts for each armhole; after this you will continue each piece separately. Now you are still decreasing for the neck and you will start to decrease for the armholes: 1 st on each side of the back piece on every RS row for the next 6 RS rows (=12 sts decreased), or 1 st on the side of each front piece on every RS row for the next 6 RS rows (= 6 sts decreased). Happy knitting!

25.06.2023 kl. 16:32

country flag Apeksha Rathod wrote:

Hello! I have been following the "Knitted vest with V-neck and a textured pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk". I have 172 sts on my needle. Now I have to start reducing sts for the neck. Can you pls tell me how many sts I have to reduce in total? Both on the right & left side?

23.06.2023 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rathod, in the largest size, you will decrease 1 stitch 16 times on each right and left front piece. Happy knitting!

23.06.2023 kl. 15:53

country flag Inger Nielsen wrote:

Forstykke 45 m + bakstk 82 m + forstk 45 m = 172 m på største størrelse. Fell 10 m på hver side av merke (+). Da får jeg 62 m igjen til bakstk. I oppskriften står 72 m. Noe er feil her?

21.05.2023 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger 5 af de 10 masker du lukker af i hver side tilhører forstykkerne.

23.05.2023 kl. 11:26

country flag Spørgsmål wrote:

Er fuldstændig vild med denne vest. Men kan man ikke få samme opskrift men på rundpinde. Jeg skal strikke en str 1.1/2 år . Jeg er lidt handicappet i højre hånden pga operation. Så jeg kan ikke så godt bruge min tommelfinger , Men har lettere ved det på en rundpind 🙂 vh connie palsgreen

19.03.2023 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Connie. Dette er en vest med knapper i midten og det må da strikkes frem og tilbake. Men du strikker med rundpinne, slik det står i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

20.03.2023 kl. 13:44

country flag Susan Dilly wrote:

I am just about to start the front pieces. The picture shows rib on the arm hole edge as well as the v neck. The pattern doesn’t tell me to do a five stitch garter section on the arm hole edge do I just assume that I need to do this?

06.03.2023 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dilly, you worked 18 or 20 stitches (see size) in garter stitch on each side then cast off 4 or 5 stitches for armhole = 5 stitches garter stitch remain; when working front piece, continue working stitches as before, including these 5 stitches in garter stitch towards armhole. Happy knitting!

07.03.2023 kl. 10:11

country flag Cathleen Black wrote:

Hi, I'm wondering if you can help me understand this pattern where is says "When the piece measures 15cm work 2 rows in garter st over the first 5 sts on the needle (do not work the other sts on needle). I'm not quite understanding how to go forward here? Can you help me, Cathleen

07.02.2023 - 00:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Cathleen, This means you work 2 knitted rows over the band stitches to help the bands to sit nicely on the jacket. So you knit 5 stitches, turn and knit back. Then work the full row as before. Happy knitting!

07.02.2023 kl. 06:51

country flag Mai-Britt Vejsager wrote:

Jeg kan ikke se, hvordan jeg skal lave en afslutning på rygstykket ved nakken.

08.12.2022 - 10:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mai-Britt. Strikk dobbel perlestrikk og retstrik til bakstykket måler 24-26-29 (31-34) cm. Deretter strikkes det retstrik over alle maskene til ferdig mål, men SAMTIDIG når bakstykket måler 25-27-30 (32-35) cm felles de midterste 16-18-20 (20-24) maskene av til hals = 10-11-12 (16-18) masker tilbake på hver skulder. Strikk hver skulder ferdig for seg. Fortsett med retstrik over den ene skulderen frem og tilbake i 1 cm, fell av og klipp tråden. Strikk den andre skulderen på samme måte. mvh DROPS Design

12.12.2022 kl. 11:05

country flag Eliana wrote:

Buongiorno, non riesco a capire questo passaggio me lo potereste spiegare meglio?grazie mille Quando il lavoro misura 15-17-18 (20-21) cm, lavorare 2 f. a m. legaccio sulle prime 5 m. sul ferro (non lavorare le altre m. sul ferro), poi lavorare 1 f. su tutte le m. prima di lavorare 2 f. a m. legaccio sulle prime 5 m. sul f. dall’altro lato del lavoro (per fare in modo che il collo a V sia carino). eliana

10.11.2022 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Eliana, in questo punto deve lavorare a ferri accorciati, cioè su una parte delle maglie sul ferro come indicato. Buon lavoro!

15.11.2022 kl. 22:16

country flag EVANGELIA SYNODINOU wrote:

[RS: 5 sts in garter st, 21-21-27 (27-31) sts in stockinette st, slip the last 16-16-20 (20-24) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, work until 10-10-12 (12-12) sts remain on needle, slip the last 16-16-20 (20-24) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, work 5-5-7 (7-7) sts in stockinette st and finish with 5 sts in garter st. } I can't understand this.

12.10.2022 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Evangelia, You are placing the pocket stitches on threads to be worked later. To avoid cutting the strand by each pocket, these stitches are worked first then placed on the threads before finishing the row. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

13.10.2022 kl. 06:57

country flag Margret wrote:

Habe Markierungen gesetzt ( Vorder u Rückenteil). - Wieso auf der rechten Nadel….ich stricke doch mit Rundnadel. - …bis nach (noch?) 10 M übrig sind. Wo? Und danach soll ich 16 M stilllegen? Merci für Antwort!

09.10.2022 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margret, die Maschen für die Taschen werden zuerst gestrickt, dann stillgelegt, dh Sie stricken zuerst die ersten 5 M krausrippe, dann die nächsten 21 Maschen glatt und die 10 letzten gestrickten Maschen legen Sie still (es sind noch 11 Maschen glatt rechts auf der Nadel), dann Reihe bis 10 Maschen übrig sind und wieder die 10 letzten gestrickten Maschen stillleggen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.10.2022 kl. 09:22

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Junior

Isidor Knits, Germany

Little gentleman

Isidor Knits, Germany

Mit bedste tip må være #givaldrigop og hver tro mod dig selv..

@krea_tosse, Denmark

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