DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Wonder Wave

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves, wavy pattern and round yoke in ”Muskat”. Size 3 - 12 years

DROPS Children 22-22
DROPS design: Pattern no R-030-bn
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Size: 3/4 - 5/7 - 8/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104-110/122-128/140-146/152
Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250 g colour no 04, lilac

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 28 rows in Wavy pattern = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repetition of pattern should measure approx. 6 cm in breadth.

DROPS Angular silver buttons no 534: 3 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

WAVY PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle):
1 ridge = 2 rounds * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right band from RS. 1 button hole = cast off 3rd band st from edge, on next row cast on 1 new st over the cast off st.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE 3/4 years: 18, 23 and 27 cm
SIZE 5/7 years: 20, 25 and 29 cm
SIZE 8/10 years: 21, 27 and 31 cm
SIZE 10/12 years: 23, 29 and 33 cm
NOTE: Last button hole is cast off on row after diagram M.2 has been worked.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Loosely cast on 152-166-180-194 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work first row as follows from RS: * K 10, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 8-10-12-14 sts remain, K these sts = 140-153-166-179 sts. Then K 3 rows back and forth. Continue with diagram M.1 with 5 band sts in each side in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx. 16-18-18-19 cm (adjust so that 1 row remains of diagram M.1), work next row as follows (= WS): Work 34-37-41-44 sts, loosely cast off 7-7-6-6 sts for armhole, work 58-65-72-79 sts, loosely cast off 7-7-6-6 sts for armhole and work the rest of row (= 34-37-41-44 sts).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 59-59-74-74 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Muskat. Work first round as follows: * K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 3-3-2-2 sts remain, K these sts = 52-52-65-65 sts. Then P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Insert a marker at the beg of the round. Continue with diagram M.1 - beg in the 11th-1st-4th-7th sts in diagram, count from the right (in size 3/4 and 8/10 years, K first st, and at the end of round K this st tog with the last st on round). Continue working like this until piece measures approx. 3-4-4-5 cm (adjust so that 1 round of diagram M.1 remains). On next round cast off the FIRST 6-6-7-7 sts, work the rest of round = 46-46-58-58 sts.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Cast on and work as right sleeve but when piece measures 3-4-4-5 cm, cast off like this:
Size 3/4 and 8/10: cast off the FIRST 6-7 sts on round
Size 5/7 and 11/12: cast off the LAST 6-7 sts on round
(this is important to make the pattern correct on yoke).

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 218-231-270-283 sts. NOTE: It is very important that the right sleeve is inserted in the right side and the left sleeve is inserted in the left side so that the pattern fits onwards.
Continue with diagram M.2 – start at the arrow for the correct size - with 5 band sts in garter st in each side (= 16-17-20-21 repetitions on the round).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-20-21-23 cm, cast off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above.
When diagram M.2 has been worked vertically, 90-95-110-115 sts remain on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: K 5 (while at the same time casting off for the last button hole), * K 2 tog, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 7-6-6-5 sts remain, K these sts = 64-67-77-80 sts. K 3-3-5-5 rows back and forth, then cast off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves and sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.05.2012
LEFT SLEEVE:
Cast on and work as right sleeve but when piece measures 3-4-4-5 cm, cast off like this:
Size 3/4 and 8/10: cast off the FIRST 6-7 sts on round
Size 5/7 and 11/12: cast off the LAST 6-7 sts on round
(this is important to make the pattern correct on yoke).

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 22-22

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Comments / Questions (182)

country flag Anxu wrote:

I have problem with the whole 5/7 front-, backpiece and draving! The instruction say that the armhole reductions will be done made to18cm, but in the drawing the measurements is 30cm. Which measurements is correct?

05.07.2024 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anxu, the 30 cm in the chart are for the total length, the body will be 18 cm, when you cast off stitches for armhole. Happy knitting!

05.07.2024 - 12:52

country flag Eva Andersson wrote:

Modell nr :R-030-bn Jag håller på med denna modellen strl 5-7 år. Har stickat upp till jag ska börja med mönster M2, i o m jag tar in maskor så kommer själva mönstret i rapporterna fel. Ska jag sticka någon rät maska emellan???

27.06.2024 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Når du skal starte å minske masker i M.2 er det i hver side av diagrammet det minskes, hullmønstret midt på skal være over hverandre, som tidligere. Sett maskemarkører mellom hver rapport, da har du en bedre oversikt. mvh DROPS Design

01.07.2024 - 08:48

country flag Eva Andersson wrote:

När jag går över till mönster m2, och minskar maskor så rubbas hela mönstret

27.06.2024 - 07:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, Nej det er nøjagtig samme mønster med 4 minskningar og 4 ökningar på hver 4:e varv. OBS du starter altid nederst i diagrammet :)

27.06.2024 - 07:47

country flag Merethe Büttner wrote:

Wonder save ærme - -2 i diagram !

02.04.2024 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Merethe. Se vårt forrige svar til deg evnt skrive et mer utdypende spørsmål. mvh DROPS Design

02.04.2024 - 08:33

country flag Merethe Büttner wrote:

-1 i et diagram hvad betyder det.?

31.03.2024 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Merethe. Beklager, men det spørsmålet skjønner jeg ikke. Kan ikke se at det står -1 i diagram M.1 eller M.2. Prøv å spesifisere hvor du er i diagrammet og hvilket diagram evnt hvor i teksten du mener (oppgi da hvilket avsnitt/størrelse). Generelt i oppskrifter brukes - (bindestrek) for å skille mellom størrelser. Står det f.eks slik: ....start i den 11.-1.-4.-7. m i diag,..... Så skal du i str. 3/4 år starte i maske nr. 11 i diagrammet. I str. 5/7 år starte i maske nr. 1 i diagrammet. I str. 8/10 år starte i maske nr. 4 i diagrammet. I str. 11/12 år starte i maske nr. 4 i diagrammet. mvh DROPS Design

02.04.2024 - 08:32

country flag Gaby Wiedemann wrote:

Modell Children 22-22 Modell Design Nr. R-030-bn Die Anschlags-Maschenanzahl von 180 bei Größe122/128 , Wolle Muskat und Nadeln Nr. 4 kann niemals stimmen?! Ich habe es so begonnen - das wird eine Weste für Erwachsene! Bitte prüfen Sie die Maschenzahlen! Ich möchte die Jacke gerne stricken. Herzlichen Dank. Gaby Wiedemann

11.03.2024 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Lieue Frau Wiedemann, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Sollten Sie 23 M. x 28 R. im Wellenmuster = 10 x 10 cm bzw 1 Rapport im Wellenmuster ca. 6 cm breit dann sollten die fertigen Maßnahmen wie in der Maßskizze stimmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.03.2024 - 07:17

country flag Heidi Dyrnesli Nielsen wrote:

Jeg vil strikke str. 3/4 år. Skal jeg slå 152 masker op+10 stolpemasker (=162 m), eller kun slå 152 masker op? Mvh. Heidi Nielsen

02.03.2024 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. Du legger opp 152 masker. Dette maskeantallet inkluderer stolpemaskene. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 13:50

country flag Maureen wrote:

Hello...I have managed pattern up to yoke...and attached the sleeves...I want to finish in garter st to match a dress I knitted. Please can you help with shaping yoke. ..decreasing.

02.02.2024 - 14:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maureen, the yoke has a lace pattern and M.2 includes the decreases for the yoke. You can substitute the pattern in M.2 with garter stitches except the decreases(which would be on the sides of each M.2 repeat). However, this may not shape correctly, since the vertical gauge of a lace pattern and a garter stitch pattern are not the same; you need more garter stitch rows for the same amount of cm. So you will need to recalculate the pattern accordingly. We don't make custom patterns. Happy knitting!

04.02.2024 - 23:33

country flag Maureen wrote:

This pattern needs a correction! For first size it states knit 5 proceed with stocking stitch at beg and end...it needs to be 4 stitches before doing wavy pattern !!!m1

07.12.2023 - 11:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maureen, you need 5 band stitches on each side in all sizes, and these stitches shouldn't be cast on extra, they belong to the number of stitches to cast on. Happy knitting!

08.12.2023 - 08:52

country flag GMA wrote:

Do you have this 'waves pattern in straight needle. If so where can I find these instructions. Thanks

19.11.2023 - 11:33