DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
2.30 £ /50g |
Order | |
DROPS Fabel 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
2.40 £ /50g |
Order | |
DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
2.60 £ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.30 £ /50g Order |
|
DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.40 £ /50g Order |
|
DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.60 £ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Julien |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS jumper with v-neck and cables in ”Fabel” or "Flora". Size 3 - 12 years.
DROPS Children 22-31 |
|||||||||||||
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – all rows in diagram shows pattern from RS, 1 repetition = 24 sts in width. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to armholes and neck): Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st + 3 sts in stocking st at the armhole and inside 1 st in garter st at the neck. All dec are done from RS. Dec AFTER 4/1 st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec BEFORE 4/1 st as follows: K 2 tog. DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neck edge): Dec on each side of the 2 K sts mid front of neck as follows: Work until 1 st remains before the 2 K sts, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. ------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 212-224-240-252-268 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with blue Fabel or indigo Flora. K 1 round, continue in rib = K 2/P 2 for 2 rounds. Switch to grey blue Fabel or denim blue and continue rib until piece measures 4 cm. Work next round as follows (insert a marker at beg of round): SIZE 3/4 YEARS: ** K 2, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 6 times, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, K 2 tog, K 14, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 5 times, * K 8, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 8 times, K 8 = 186 sts. SIZE 5/6 YEARS: ** K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 6, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, * K 7, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, K 8 = 198 sts. SIZE 7/8 YEARS: ** K 2, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 2 times, K 2, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, (K 2 tog, K 3), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, then from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 2 times, * K 10, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, K 4 = 210 sts. SIZE 9/10 YEARS: ** K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, K 4, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, (K 2 tog, K 6), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, K 2, * K 2 tog, K 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times = 222 sts. SIZE 11/12 YEARS: ** K 2, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, K 2, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 2, (K 2 tog, K 4), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, repeat from [-] 1 time, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, K 8, * K 2 tog, K 7 *, repeat from *-* a total of 12 times = 234 sts. ALL SIZES: There are now 186-198-210-222-234 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: K 18-20-22-24-26, diagram M.1 (= 24 sts), K 24-26-28-30-32, diagram M.1 (= 24 sts) and K 96-104-112-120-128. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next round as follows: Cast off the first 6 sts for armhole, work as before over the next 96-102-108-114-120 sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work in stocking st over the last 78-84-90-96-102 sts (= back piece). Finish front and back piece separately. BACK PIECE: = 78-84-90-96-102 sts. Work in stocking st back and forth with 1 edge st in each side in GARTER ST – see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS, dec 1 st in each side inside 4 sts - SEE DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat dec every other row a total of 7-8-9-10-11 times = 64-68-72-76-80 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 39-42-45-48-51 cm, cast off the middle 22-24-26-28-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder (= 21-22-23-24-25 sts) separately. Cast off when piece measures 40-43-46-49-52 cm. FRONT PIECE: = 96-102-108-114-120 sts. Continue pattern back and forth on needle and cast off for armholes as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 30-32-34-36-38 cm, slip the middle 6 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each side separately. Slip the sts in one side on to a stitch holder. Continue cast off for armholes – AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st towards the neck inside 1 st - SEE DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec every other row a total of 8-9-10-11-12 times. After all cast off for armholes and dec for neck, 30-31-32-33-34 sts remain on shoulder. Continue pattern with 1 st in garter st in each side. When piece measures approx. 39½-42½-45½-48½-51½ cm (adjust so that next row is from RS), dec 2 sts over each of the small cables and 5 sts over the large cable in the middle by K tog sts 2 by 2 = 21-22-23-24-25 sts remain on shoulder. On next row, cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 40-43-46-49-52 cm. Slip the stitches on the stitch holder back on needle and work as first side but reversed. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-52-52-56-56 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with blue Fabel or indigo Flora. K 1 round, then work 1 round rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to grey blue Fabel or denim blue Flora. Continue rib until it measures 4 cm. Continue in stocking st – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, dec 4 sts evenly = 44-48-48-52-52 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 2½ cm a total of 9-10-12-12-14 times = 62-68-72-76-80 sts. When piece measures 30-34-37-40-43 cm, cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements. Continue to cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2-3-5-7-8 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 34-39-43-47-51 cm. Now cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side, then cast off the remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx. 35-40-44-48-52 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. NECK: Knit up 128-136-144-152-160 sts (divisible by 4, incl sts on stitch holder at the front) inside 1 edge st around the neck on circular needle size 2.5 mm with grey blue Fabel or denim blue Flora. (NOTE: If too few or too many sts have been knitted up, inc or dec evenly on 1st round.) Work rib = K 2/P 2 – adjust so that 2 K sts are mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, dec 1 st on each side of the 2 K sts mid front – SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every round until finished measurements. When neck edge measures 2 cm, switch to blue Fabel or indigo Flora. Work 2 more rounds in rib, then cast off with K over K and P over P. |
|||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (30)
Lenoir wrote:
Est ce normal que le devant soit plus large que le dos? C'est la première fois que je trouve un modèle avec un dos et un devant différent Merci d'avance pour votre réponse
30.08.2017 - 15:02DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lenoir, le dos et le devant ont la même largeur, en revanche, le dos se tricote en jersey et le devant avec des torsades, d'où la différence du nombre de mailles pour les 2 pièces. Bon tricot!
30.08.2017 - 16:47Sissel wrote:
Jeg tenker at Julian-genseren kunne bli neste prosjekt, men jeg må ha str 4-5 år. Hvordan skal jeg legge en økn på ca 10 masker på bolen, i og med at antall masker på for- og bakstykke er litt forskjellig? Hvor mange masker tror dere jeg burde legge opp til ermene?
28.06.2016 - 20:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Sissel. Vi har desvaerre ikke mulighed for at hjaelpe dig med at tilpasse de gratis mönstre efter eget önske. Men som regel kan du klare dig langt ved brug af strikkefastheden. Du ved hvor stor tröjen skal vaere (bredde / höjde / omkreds erme) og du ved hvor mange m/p du har per 10 x 10 cm. Husk din strikkepröve naar du tilpasser. Held og lykke.
29.06.2016 - 12:44Laetitia wrote:
Bonjour, J ai un soucis pour tricoter ce modèle avec un dos et un devant ( je n ai pas les aiguilles doubles dans cette taille). Je veux le tricoter en taille 110/116. La partie qui me pose problème est celle après les 4cm de côtes 2/2. Soit c est un motif fantaisie qu il faut faire soit des diminutions en tout cas je ne vois pas comment faire pour répartir ce schema sur un dos et un devant J espère que vous pourrez m aider Merci!
27.05.2016 - 14:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Laëtitia, après les 4 cm de côtes, on fait un tour avec les diminutions indiquées - puis on va continuer en point fantaisie sur le devant (torsades) soit 20 m end, M.1 (= 24 m), 20 m end, M1 (= 24 m) et 104 m pour la fin du devant + le dos. Regardez ici pour adapter sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!
27.05.2016 - 14:50Kelly wrote:
Yes, you are correct. Thank you so much!
11.11.2015 - 00:43Kelly wrote:
The pattern will say for example, "Work next round as follows: K 18-20-22-24-26 (tel: 18-20-22-24-26)".
09.11.2015 - 23:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kelly, you may have to check the settings of your browser, it looks like it is understood by your browser as a telephone number. Happy knitting!
10.11.2015 - 09:44Kelly wrote:
Hello there, my question is what does this mean? (tel:24-26-28-30-32) The "tel" part is stumping me. I have not seen this before. Thanks!
08.11.2015 - 21:05DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kelly, sorry, I cannot find any "tel: 26-26-28-30-32" in any of the English patterns, could you tell me more? thank you!
09.11.2015 - 11:03Marie wrote:
Jeg sidder med trøjen nu i den mindste størrelse. Kan det virkelig passe, at der er 18 masker i forskel på for- og bagstykke? Det er jeg ikke stødt på før. :)
28.09.2015 - 06:46DROPS Design answered:
Hej Marie, Snoningerne trækker maskerne sammen, så du er nødt til at have flere m når du strikker snoninger for at få samme bredde som på rygstykket. God fornøjelse!
01.10.2015 - 16:41Sissel Hammer wrote:
I found that when knitting on 2.5mm needles I was five cm to narrow on the body, had to go up to 3.5mm to get the right measure, usually my tension fits the pattern.
25.04.2015 - 17:20Mary Manderson wrote:
I see there are 6 sts bind off for the back, pattern instructions are for the front also. But the sleeves only have 6sts bind off am I reading this correctly as it seems to me this would make the armholes too big.
04.04.2015 - 04:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Manderson, back and front are worked in the round to armholes where you bind off 6 sts for each armhole. On sleeve, you first bind off 6 sts, then continue sleeve back and forth binding off at the beg of every row in each side some more sts to shape sleeve cap. Happy knitting!
04.04.2015 - 09:43Laura wrote:
Unless I am reading it wrong the instructions for the decrease row (after the ribbing at the start) don't add up to the correct number of stitches. For the 5/6 size the instructions go through 239 stitches, where one cast on 224, and the 7/8 size is similarly out. Makes me a little worried about continuing, though I like the rib pattern. Can I depend on the rest being right? The original numbers appear to be the same.
03.02.2015 - 06:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Laura, in size 5/96 you cast on 224 sts and work them as follows: **K 4, K 2 tog**, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times (= 24 sts dec to 20 sts), [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6] (= 26 sts dec to 24 sts), K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 6, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, (= 30 sts dec to 26 sts) repeat from [-] 1 time (= 26 sts dec to 24 sts), K 2 tog (2 sts dec to 1 st), repeat from **-** a total of 3 times (18 sts dec to 15 sts), * K 7, K 2 tog*, repeat from *-* a total of 10 times (90 sts dec to 80 sts), K 8 = 224 sts dec to 198 sts. Happy knitting!
03.02.2015 - 09:54