DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.70 $ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Blooming Placemat

Crochet DROPS place mat for Christmas in 1 strand ”Fabel” or “Alpaca” and 1 strand “Glitter”.

DROPS Extra 0-800
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-586
Yarn group A
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Diameter: approx. 24 cm / 9½''

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g color no 106, red

Or: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g color no 3620, red

And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
10 g color no 08, red

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/US C

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.70 $ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace 1st tr with ch 4, 1st dc with ch 3 and 1st sc with ch 1.
Finish the round with 1 sl st in 4th, 3rd or 1st ch respectively from beg of round.
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PLACE MAT:
Ch 6 on hook size 2.5 mm/US C with 1 strand Fabel or Alpaca and 1 strand Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Read CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: 24 tr in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in next tr, ch 5, 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round (= 12 leaves).
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in first sc, * ch 8, 1 sl st in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sl st from beg of round.
ROUND 4: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch space *, repeat from *-* 11 times, ch 6, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round (= 12 ch spaces).
ROUND 5: 6 dc in every ch space = 72 dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 dc.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 dc.
ROUND 8: * 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 dc.
ROUND 9: * 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, ch 6, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round (8 ch spaces evenly distributed).
ROUND 10: 1 sc in first dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, * 14 dtr in ch space, 1 sc in 5th dc after ch space, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 7 times, 14 dtr in ch space, 1 sc in 5th dc from ch space, ch 2, skip 1 dc and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 11: 1 sc in first sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc,* “ ch 5, 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, skip 1 dtr, 1 sc in next dtr “, repeat from “-“ 7 times, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc * repeat from *-* the entire round.
Fasten off.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Inkeri Koski-Lammi wrote:

Suomi-käännöksessä (myös muissa vastaavissa) lienee virhe, eli ’lauta-alusta’ po. lautasalusta?

05.07.2019 - 09:22

country flag Hannele Björemo wrote:

Jag får det inte att gå ihop. Allt tycks stämma till varv 9, men varv 10, 11 och tolv måste vara till en annan tallriksunderlägg. De 14 trippelstolparna är rätt, men när jag virkar efter mönstret ( v 10, 11, 12), ser det inte alls ut som på bilden.

30.03.2018 - 15:57

country flag DANA wrote:

Bonjour, Il doit y avoir une erreur quelque part car je suis arrivée au 9ème rang et lorsque je fais les brides puis les mailles en l'air cela me revient à 16 arceaux et non 8 arceaux comme notés. Pourriez-vous me dire ce qui ne va pas s'il vous plaît? Merci d'avance pour la prochaine réponse car je crochète ce modèle pour ma sœur qui viendra cette semaine.

10.12.2017 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dana, au 8ème tour, vous avez 96 B et vous crochetez au 9ème tour: *6 B, 6 ml, 6B*, répétez de *-* tout le tour. Vous aurez ainsi 12 brides entre chaque arceau de 6 ml et un total de 8 arceaux de 6 ml. Bon crochet!

11.12.2017 - 10:40

country flag Marilyn wrote:

In round #9, pattern states 6 DC, ch 6 .. etc; however, this results in incorrect number of spaces. I corrected this to 12 DC. HOWEVER, rounds 10, etc. are now ionconsistent. Can you advise or revise round 10, 11 and 12? Like the pattern and planned on four placemats for Christmas but now stumped at round #9. Thank you in advance,

08.10.2015 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marylin, on round 9, you work: *6 dc, 6 ch, 6 dc* and repeat around a total of 8 times, so that you get 8 ch-loops and 12 dc between each ch-loop(12 dc x 8 times = 96 sts). Round 10 match then over round 9. Happy croheting!

08.10.2015 - 17:33

country flag Stephanie Hutton wrote:

Hello, I'm quite new to Drops patterns and I'm always confused with the "crochet info". On this pattern I don't understand where to work the "crochet info" within the pattern. Can you please help. Kind regards, Stephanie.

01.02.2015 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hutton, the crochet info explains how to start each row, ie replace 1st dtr at beg of each round with dtr with 4 ch, replace 1st tr at beg of each round with tr with 3 ch and so on, ex. on round 1, you start with 4 ch, 23 dtr in the ch-ring. Happy crocheting!

02.02.2015 - 12:56

country flag Nynke Snoek wrote:

De 10 e toer is onbegrijpelijk. Na de 14 driedubbele stokjes in het lossenboogje, moet ik een vaste doen in het 5e stk van de lossenboog? Op de foto zitten de bogen dicht op elkaar, ik heb er zoveel stokjes tussen, hoe kan dat?

17.06.2014 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Nynke. Je moet 1 v haken in de 5 stk vanaf de l-lus (dus niet de stk van de boog).

27.06.2014 - 12:38

country flag Anne wrote:

På 9 omgang kan det ikke passe at der skal være 6 st imellem, så kan der ikke blive kun 8 lm buer. Der må skulle være 12 i mellem, ikke?

10.02.2014 - 16:51

Yolanda wrote:

Un cordial saludo, gracias a sus patrones he podido realizar muchos de sus diseños, pero con este no ha sido posible, quisiera una mayor explicación a paritr de la vuelta 9. Un abrazo desde Colombia y felicitaciones , muchas gracias gracias,

24.02.2012 - 03:54

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Das haben Sie falsch gelesen: * 1 Stb in jedes der 6 nächsten Stb, 6 Lm, 1 Stb in jedes der 6 nächsten Stb * = 12 Stb pro wiederholung.

18.12.2011 - 19:34

country flag Ulla König wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu Reihe 9: "* 1 Stb in jedes der 6 nächsten Stb, 6 Lm, 1 Stb in jedes der 6 nächsten Stb *, von *-* wiederholen ( 8 Lm-Bogen).". Wenn ich in Runde 9 nur 8*6 Stäbchen häkle, dann komme ich lediglich auf 42 Stäbchen. Nicht aber auf die 96 Stäbchen, die ich in Runde 8 zuvor angelegt habe. Habe ich etwas falsch verstanden?

18.12.2011 - 11:17