DROPS / 130 / 6

Like A Wildflower by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket in "Paris".

DROPS design: Pattern no W-412
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Measurements:
Width: approx. 80 cm / 31½''
Length: approx. 144 cm / 56½''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
600 g color no 17, off white
400 g color no 58, powder pink
250 g color no 26, dark beige
250 g color no 60, dark old pink
150 g color no 59, light old pink
100 g color no 61, light peach

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/ US 7 - or size needed to get 1 square to measure approx. 16 x 16 cm / 6 1/4" x 6 1/4".
Measure diagonally from corner to corner = approx. 23 cm / 9''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
For every color change work last sl st at end of previous round with the new color. This is done to make the color changes pretty.

EXPLANATION OF 1 TR-GROUP:
Work 1 tr but do not YO and pull through the last time = 2 loops on hook.
Work 1 tr but do not YO and pull through the last time = 3 loops on hook.
Work 1 tr but do not YO and pull through the last time = 4 loops on hook, 1 YO, pull thread through all 4 loops on hook.
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Work a total of 45 squares.
Read CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

CROCHET SQUARE 1:
Crochet a total of 10 pieces of square 1.
Ch 6 on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 with dark old pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), continue to work 15 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 dc.
ROUND 2: ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 16 dc with 1 ch between each. Cut the yarn.
ROUND 3: Switch to powder pink. Ch 3 (= 1 dc), * 2 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times and finish with 2 dc in last ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 dc. Cut the yarn.
ROUND 4: Switch to light old pink. Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, * ch 5, 1 sl st in 5th ch from hook, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (instead of 1 sc in next dc).
ROUND 5: Work sl st until beg of first 5-ch space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 4 dc + ch 3 + 5 dc in same ch space, * 1 sc in 2-ch space, 5 dc in 3-ch space, 1 sc in 2-ch space, 5 dc + ch 3 + 5 dc in 5-ch space *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 sc in 2-ch space, 5 dc in 3-ch space, 1 sc in 2-ch space and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Fasten off.
ROUND 6: Switch to off white and beg with 1 sl st in first corner with 3 ch. Ch 1 (= 1 sc), ch 3, and 1 sc in same ch space, * ch 5, skip 5 dc, 1 dc in sc, ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 5, in the corner (3-ch space) work: 1 sc + ch 3 + 1 sc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 sc + ch 3 + 1 sc in the corner).
ROUND 7: ch 3, 2 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc in same ch space (= corner), * 5 dc in 5-ch space, 3 dc in every 3-ch space, 5 dc in 5-ch space, in the corner (3-ch space) work: 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc in the corner). Cut the yarn.
ROUND 8: Switch to dark beige. Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * in the corner (2-ch space) work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc, continue to work 1 dc in each of the next 22 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, in the corner work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc, continue with 1 dc in each of the next 19 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 28 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the yarn. Fasten all threads.

CROCHET SQUARE 2:
Crochet a total of 10 pieces of square 2.
Crochet 6 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with light peach and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 16 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: ch 6 (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc with 3 ch between each.
ROUND 3: ch 1, continue to crochet as follows in every ch space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the thread.
ROUND 4: Switch to light old pink. Ch 7, * 1 sc between the next 2 leaves, ch 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch spaces.
ROUND 5: ch 1, continue to crochet as follows in every ch space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROUND 6: Switch to off white and start with 1 sl st in 2nd dc (of the 5 dc) on first leaf, ch 1, * ch 6 (= corner), skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc (last of the 5 dc) on same leaf, ch 5, 1 sc in 2nd dc (of the 5 dc) on next leaf, ch 4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc (last of the 5 dc) on same leaf, ch 5, 1 sc in 2nd dc (of the 5 dc) on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round (instead of 1 sc in 2nd dc on next leaf).
ROUND 7: 1 sl st in 6-ch space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc + ch 4 + 4 dc in same ch space (= corner), * (ch 4, 1 sc in next ch space), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, ch 4, in the corner work 4 dc + ch 4 + 4 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 3 times and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 8: Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, * in 4-ch space in the corner work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next ch space, 3 dc in each of the next 2 ch spaces, 2 dc in next ch space, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg round (instead of 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc) = 24 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the yarn. Fasten all threads.

CROCHET SQUARE 3:
Crochet a total of 13 pieces of square 3.
Ch 6 on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with dark beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), work 15 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 dc. Cut the yarn.
ROUND 2: Switch to off white. Ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in first ch space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc + ch 3 + 2 dc in same ch space, * (ch 1, 1 sc in next ch space), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, ch 1, in next ch space (= corner) work: 2 dc + ch 3 + 2 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut yarn and fasten.
ROUND 4: Switch to powder pink and start with 1 sl st in 3-ch space in first corner. Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc + ch 3 + 2 dc in same ch space, * (ch 2, 1 sc in next ch space), repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, ch 2, in next ch space (= corner) work 2 dc + ch 3 + 2 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work sl st until beg of ch space in the corner, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc in the same ch space, * (ch 2, 1 sc in next ch space), repeat from (-) a total of 5 times, ch 2, in next ch space (= corner) work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 5 times, finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut yarn and fasten.
ROUND 6: Switch to dark old pink and start with 1 sl st in 2-ch space in first corner. Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc in same ch space, * (ch 2, 1 sc in next ch space), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, ch 2, in next ch space (= corner) work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 7: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * in ch space in the corner work 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, (2 dc in next ch space), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg round (instead of 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc) = 24 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut yarn and fasten all ends.

CROCHET SQUARE 4:
Crochet a total of 12 pieces of square 4.
Ch 4 on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 8 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: ch 4 (= 1 sc + 3 ch), * 1 sc in next sc, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 8 ch spaces.
ROUND 3: Crochet in every ch space as follows: 1 sc, 4 dc, 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in first sc = 8 leaves.
ROUND 4: Fold the leaves towards you and crochet at the back of these as follows: 1 sc in first sc from 2nd round, ch 8 (= 1 dc + 5 ch), * 1 dc in next sc from 2nd round, ch 5 *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 ch spaces.
ROUND 5: Crochet in every ch space as follows: 1 sc, 6 dc, 1 sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 8 leaves. Cut the yarn.
ROUND 6: Switch to dark beige. Fold the leaves towards you and crochet at the back of these as follows: 1 sc in first dc from 4th round, ch 10 (= 1 dc + 7 ch), * 1 dc in next dc from 4th round, ch 7 *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 ch spaces.
ROUND 7: Crochet in every ch space as follows: 1 sc, 8 dc, 1 sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 8 leaves. Cut yarn and fasten.
ROUND 8: Switch to powder pink and work 1 sl st in first dc on first leaf, ch 6 (= 1 dc + 3 ch), 1 tr-group in fourth dc on first leaf - SEE EXPLANATION ABOVE, ch 5, 1 tr-group in fifth dc on same leaf, * ch 3, 1 dc in last dc on same leaf, ch 3, 1 sc in third dc on next leaf, ch 3, 1 sc in sixth dc on same leaf, ch 3, 1 dc in first dc on next leaf, ch 3, 1 tr-group in fourth dc on same leaf, ch 5, 1 tr-group in fifth dc on same leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, ch 3, 1 dc in last dc on same leaf, ch 3, 1 sc in third dc on next leaf, ch 3, 1 sc in sixth dc on same leaf, ch 3, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in first ch space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch space, ch 2, * 1 tr-group in 5-ch space, ch 5, 1 tr-group in same ch space, ch 2, (3 dc in next ch space, ch1 ) repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* a total 3 times, 1 tr-group in 5-ch space, ch 5, 1 tr-group in same ch space, ch 2, (3 dc in next ch space, ch1 ) repeat from (-) a total of 4 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 10: Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sts and 1 sl st in first ch space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch space, ch 1, * in the corner (in 5-ch space) work 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, (ch 1, 2 dc in next ch space) repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* total of 4 times but finish last time with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 3 dc in next ch space) = 18 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut yarn and fasten all ends.

ASSEMBLY:
45 squares have now been worked.
Place the squares with 5 squares in width and 9 squares in height. First crochet squares tog alongside and then across. Work squares tog with off white by working through the edge of 2 and 2 squares at a time as follows: * 1 sc through the edge of 2 squares, ch 2, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'' *, repeat from *-*.

EDGE:
Crochet 1 round with off white around the entire blanket as follows:
* 1 sc in edge, ch 2, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'' *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.08.2011
CROCHET SQUARE 4:...ROUND 10: ... = 18 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut yarn and fasten all ends.
Updated online: 31.08.2011
CROCHET SQUARE 1:...ROUND 8: ....= = 28 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 130-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (62)

Carolina 16.05.2020 - 22:51:

Hola! Existe la posibilidad de tener imágenes de patrones en vez de sólo explicaciones para esta manta?

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 21:41:

Hola Carolina. Este patrón solo tiene las explicaciones en formato texto. No hay posibilidad de añadir diagramas a los patrones ya publicados. Los modelos de las nuevas revistas ya contienen tanto diagramas como explicaciones en el texto.

Eleonora 25.04.2020 - 16:38:

Hi! Are there any charts available for the pattern of squares? Many Thanks//

DROPS Design 26.04.2020 kl. 20:57:

Dear Eleonora, unfortunately we do not have a written out pattern for this piece. We think charted patterns are better not only because they are universal and can be "read" in every language, but also because they not only show you the very next step, but also how stitches and rows relate to each other. We so have a lesson on how to read cochet harts / diagrams here, and don't forget, if you get stuck, you can always ask for help in the store in person, or even over the phone, where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!!

Ana 13.01.2020 - 20:11:

¿Que número corresponde al melocotón claro ?porque el 61 es color lima

DROPS Design 19.01.2020 kl. 23:04:

Hola Ana. Es la numeración antigua de los los colores. Ahora, el melocotón claro es el Nº 27.

Marta 04.10.2019 - 11:18:

En los materiales para este trabajo se indica el Nº 61 Melocoton claro. Pero al comprar el material el número 61 es un verde pistacho. ¿cual es el color necesario?

DROPS Design 06.10.2019 kl. 22:50:

Hola Marta. Tu pregunta está enviada al departamento de diseño. Cuando tengamos la respuesta, añadiremos la corrección a los materiales.

Charlotte B 13.09.2019 - 16:15:

I made this blanket. All four kinds of squares will be the same size if you crochet correctly. I made a modification so that all four kinds had the same amount of dcs (28) on the last round. This made it easier to sew together, and also prevents a bad result when washing it (the rounds with fewer dcs will pull the other ones when shrinking).

Lena 01.09.2019 - 14:28:

Is er geen patroontekening van de volgorde om de lapjes aan elkaar te maken. Ik bedoel dus op welke plaats in het deken welke granny moet komen? Ik wil het graag zoals op de foto maar kan het niet zo goed rondom zien. Bedankt alvast.

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 14:38:

Dag Lena,

Nee, hier is helaas geen tekening van. Dit kun je naar eigen inzicht/smaak doen.

Eleonora 13.02.2019 - 12:58:

Ho notato che i 4 quadrati hanno un numero diverso di maglie per lato ( es quadrato1 28 maglie, quadrato2 24 maglie, quadrato4 18 maglie. Come si possono fissare insieme se non hanno lo stesso numero di maglie?

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 14:15:

Buongiorno Eleonora. Quando unisce i quadrati, non li deve unire maglia con maglia, ma segue queste indicazioni: 1 m.b attraverso i bordi dei 2 quadrati, 2 cat, saltare ca. 1 cm. Buon lavoro!

Marloes 01.01.2019 - 13:38:

Mooie deken! Ik loop alleen tegen het volgende aan. Bij mij wordt vierkant 4 groter als de andere. Hij is bij tour 9 al bijna gelijk aan de andere. Klopt dit of doe ik iets niet goed?

DROPS Design 01.01.2019 kl. 17:09:

Dag Marloes,

Het vierkantje zou ongeveer even groot moeten zijn als de anderen. Let erop dat je bij toer 4 de blaadjes naar je toe vouwt en achter de blaadjes moet haken, dus je haakt dan de steken in de 2e toer. Dit doe je ook weer bij toer 6 en dan haak je in de 4e toer. Op deze manier liggen de blaadjes ahw op het vierkantje, zodat je een 3d effect krijgt.

Ditte Vibe 23.12.2018 - 16:13:

Hæklet DROPS tæppe i ”Paris”. DROPS / 130 / 6 Jeg skal bruge 20 firkanter mere ud over opskriften. hvor meget garn mere skal jeg bestille. vh Ditte

DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 10:44:

Hei Ditte. Det avhenger litt av hvilke ruter du velger å hekle. Du skal i følge oppskrifter hekle 45 ruter, om du vil hekle 20 ruter til, vil dette tilsvare litt mindre enn 50% mer garn enn oppgitt. (du hekler teppe altså ca 1 og en halv gang). God fornøyelse.

Couratier 23.10.2018 - 12:36:

Je l’ai réalisé assez vite et le redu est magnifique en couvre lit avec bordure fleurs pendante. J.ai des photos mais je ne sais pas comment vous le faire partager

DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 14:39:

Bonjour Mme Couratier et merci. Vous pouvez partager vos photos sur les différents réseaux sociaux à l'aide des hashtags #dropsdesign #DROPSParis et sur notre groupe DROPS Workshop - et/ou ajouter le lien de votre blog dans les commentaires. Bon crochet!

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