DROPS Extra / 0-747

My Love by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Crochet DROPS place mats and napkin rings in ”Safran” or "DROPS ♥ You #7" and ”Glitter”.

DROPS design: Pattern no E-176
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PLACE MATS:
Measurements small mat: approx. 20 cm in diameter
Measurements large mat: approx 30 cm in diameter (can be worked bigger)

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 01, light pink
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 04, light pink

Or use:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 14, light pink
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 04, light pink

1 ball Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7 is enough for 2 small place mats or 1 large place mat.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 dc = width 10 cm.
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NAPKIN RING:
Measurements: approx. 4½ cm in diameter

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 01, light pink
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 04, light pink

Or use:
Materials: DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 14, light pink
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 04, light pink

1 ball Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7 is enough for 4 napkin rings.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 dc = width 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.60 £ /10g
DROPS Glitter colours DROPS Glitter colours 2.60 £ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Glitter gold & silver DROPS Glitter gold & silver 1.60 £ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Cotton
0.80 £ /50g
DROPS ♥ You #7 DROPS ♥ You #7 0.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO 1 (applies to place mats):
Replace first dc on dc rounds with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

CROCHET INFO 2 (applies to napkin ring):
Replace first dc at beg of every round with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
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SMALL PLACE MAT:
Crochet 8 ch on hook size 3 mm with 1 thread Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7 + 2 threads Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO 1.
ROUND 1: Work 24 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: 5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop the entire round: 1 dc + 1 ch + 1 dc + 1 ch, finish round with 1 sl st in first ch = 24 dc with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 4: 1 sl st in first dc, 1 sl st in first ch, 5 ch, 1 dtr in same ch, * 7 ch, now work 4 triple tr tog as follows: Work 2 triple tr in same ch but wait with last YO and pull through on both triple tr, skip 1 dc + 1 ch + 1 dc, work 1 triple tr in next ch but wait with last YO and pull through, then work last triple tr in same ch and pull last YO through all 5 sts on hook *, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, 7 ch, work 2 triple tr in same ch (but wait with last YO and pull through on both), work 1 sl st in 5th ch from beg of round and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 7 dtr in same ch-loop, then work 8 dtr in every ch-loop, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 12 dtr-groups with 8 dtr in each.
ROUND 6: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, then work 1 dc in every dtr and 1 dc between each dtr-group the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 108 dc.
ROUND 7: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), skip 1 dc, * 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch (make sure to make ch the same length as 1 dc so that the round does not tighten), skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 54 tr with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 8: 1 ch, then work 2 and 3 dc alternately in every ch the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 135 dc.
ROUND 9: Work 1 dc in every dc = 135 dc.
ROUND 10 (= lace edge): 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, * 5 ch, 1 tr in 2nd ch worked, 1 dtr in first ch worked, skip 4 dc, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st) = 27 loops. Cut and fasten the thread.
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LARGE PLACE MAT:
Work as small place mat up to and with 9th round.
ROUND 10-12: Work as 9th round = 135 dc.
ROUND 13: * Work 1 dc in each of the 8 first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 150 dc.
ROUND 14-15: Work 1 dc in every dc = 150 dc. ROUND 16: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of next 5 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 165 dc.
ROUND 17: Work 1 dc in every dc = 165 dc.
ROUND 18: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 176 dc.
ROUND 19: Work 1 dc in every dc = 176 dc.
NOTE: Work place mat bigger by repeating round 18 and 19 if desired. But for every repetition of 18th round work 1 dc more between each inc. Make sure that no sts can be divided by 2 before working round 20 (if mat is worked bigger the no of tr and dc given below will not be correct).
ROUND 20: Crochet as round 7 = 88 tr with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 21: Work as round 8 = 220 dc.
ROUND 22: Work 1 dc in every dc = 220 dc.
ROUND 23: Work lace edge as on 10th round on small place mat = 44 loops. Cut and fasten the thread.
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NAPKIN RING:
Crochet 38 ch on hook size 3 mm with 1 thread Safran or DROPS ♥ You #7 + 2 threads Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, 1 dc in next ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 30 dc.
ROUND 2: 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 3: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 15 tr with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 4: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, then work 1 dc in every ch and 1 dc between each tr the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 30 dc.
Then work dc in the round with 1 dc in every st until piece measures 5 cm.
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: 2 ch, * skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round (= folding edge).
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, then work 1 dc in every ch and 1 dc between every dc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 30 dc.

Work 2 more rounds with 1 dc in every dc. Fold the upper part of the napkin ring out towards RS in the folding edge and work next round from RS as follows (= lace edge): * 5 ch, 1 tr in 2nd ch worked, 1 dtr in first ch worked, skip approx. 1½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st). Cut and fasten the thread. Work another lace edge in the opposite end of the napkin ring. Cut and fasten the thread.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-747) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Hilda Sobh 04.08.2019 - 10:37:

Het is duidelijk voor iemand die bijna geen patroon kan lezen

Anna 16.05.2019 - 23:30:

Sto eseguendo la tovaglietta ma non riesco a capire come si fa il 4 giro. È possibile avere delle spiegazioni più precise?

Uli 09.05.2019 - 11:44:

Hallo, Eine Frage zu Reihe 4, kl Tischset,da heisst es "jetzt die 4 Dreifach-Stb zusammenhäkeln", ich hab aber erst ein Stäbchen gemacht? Wie soll ich das verstehen? Vielen Dank für ihre Hilfe Grüße

DROPS Design 09.05.2019 kl. 14:05:

Liebe Uli, Sie sollen jetzt die 4 Dreifach-Stb zusammenhäkeln, wie es dann erklärt ist, dh: 2 Dreifach-Stb in die selbe Lm jedoch mit dem letzten Durchziehen warten, 1 fM + 1 Lm + 1 fM überspringen, 1 Dreifach-Stb in die nächste Lm, jedoch mit dem letzten Durchziehen warten, danach das letzte Dreifach-Stb in die gleiche Lm und die letzte Schlaufe durch alle M. ziehen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

De Boer 26.04.2019 - 19:26:

Ik wil het wel na haken

Lili 14.11.2018 - 15:06:

Hallo! Darf ich anhand Ihres Musters Topflappen (doppelt gehäkelt, d.h. Rückseite besteht aus Stäbchen) häkeln und verkaufen? Muss ich dafür lt. Ihren Bestimmungen die von Ihnen angebotene Wolle nutzen?

D'asaro 14.03.2018 - 15:45:

Bonjour, serait il possible d'avoir le diagramme j'ai un peu de mal avec les explications . Merci

DROPS Design 14.03.2018 kl. 15:57:

Bonjour Mme D'asaro, il n'y a pas de diagramme pour ce modèle, seulement des explications écrites. Suivez bien chaque tour pas à pas, comme il est décrit. Bon crochet!

Silje 04.08.2016 - 19:51:

Hei! Er det virkelig riktig med 7 luftmasker i buene i 4. runde? Har nå tatt runde 5 med 8 dobbel staver i hver lm bue, dette blir veldig løst og rart. Det er jo plass til nesten dobbelt så mange staver i den buen? Har jeg kanskje gjort noe rart?

DROPS Design 06.04.2017 kl. 10:06:

Hej, Det er svært at vide hvad der går galt. Hækler du muligvis luftmaskerne for løst... ?

Dominique 08.05.2016 - 08:08:

Bonjour, Je ne suis pas sûre d'avoir compris comment faire un set plus grand que le modèle de base. Pour le rang 18 que l'on répète doit-on faire une augmentation au milieu des 14, c'est-à-dire toutes les 7 mailles où doit-on faire 2 augmentations dans les 14eme maille Merci pour votre aide Dominique

DROPS Design 09.05.2016 kl. 10:39:

Bonjour Dominique, pour agrandir le grand set, répétez les tours 18 et 19, c'est-à-dire la 2ème fois que vous faites le tour 18, crochetez *1 ms dans les 15 m suiv, 2 ms dans la suiv*, et au tour 19, 1 ms dans chaque ms. Si vous répétez ces tours encore 1 fois, crochetez les augm. ainsi: *1 ms dans les 16 m suiv, 2 ms dans la suiv*. Et ainsi de suite. Bon crochet!

Karin 29.03.2016 - 21:48:

Det betyder tredubbel-stolpe: se den norska versionen

Malin 29.03.2016 - 00:33:

Vad är tr-st? Jag hittar det inte i svenska förkortningsförklaringar. Är det dubbelstolpe som menas?

DROPS Design 30.03.2016 kl. 12:02:

Hej. Det betyder trippelstolpe (även kallat tredubbelstolpe). Lycka till!

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