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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Nathan Jacket |
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Knitted jacket with raglan for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Delight
DROPS Baby 20-16 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): 1 garter = K 2 rows. BUTTON HOLE: Dec for button hole on right front band. 1 button hole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for button hole when piece measures: Size 1/3 months: 2, 8, 15 and 22 cm Size 6/9 months: 2, 9, 16 and 24 cm Size 12/18 months: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm Size 2 years: 2, 8, 15, 22 and 29 cm Size 3/4 years: 2, 9, 16, 24 and 32 cm Size 5/6 years: 2, 8, 15, 22, 29 and 36 cm NOTE: Dec the last button hole on the neckline. DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan): All dec are done from RS! Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece (beg 3 sts before marker): K2 tog, K2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. -------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 132-138-150 (162-168-174) sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle 4.5 mm with 2 threads Delight. P 1 row from WS, then work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 5 band sts in garter st. Continue rib as follows until 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm, remember button holes on right front band – see explanation above. Continue to work stocking sts but work the 5 band sts in each side in garter st until piece is completed. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row after rib, adjust no of sts to 118-128-140 (146-158-168) sts – do not dec over the band. Insert 1 marker 32-34-38 (39-42-44) sts in from each side = 54-60-64 (68-74-80) sts between markers on the back piece. When piece measures 5-5-6 (6-6-6) cm, dec 1 st on each side of the markers every 2-2-2 (3-3-4) cm a total of 5 times = 98-108-120 (126-138-148) sts. When piece measures approx. 15-16-17 (19-21-24) cm - adjust so that next row is worked from WS - K 3 rows over all stitches. On next row cast off 6-8-8 (8-10-10) sts in each side for armhole (i.e. 3-4-4 (4-5-5) sts on each side of markers) = 38-42-46 (50-54-60) sts on back piece and 24-25-29 (30-32-34) sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round. Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Delight. K 1 round. Then knit rib with K2/P4 until piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm. Continue with stocking st AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 28-28-30 (30-32-32) sts on 1st round after rib. When piece measures 8-6-6 (6-6-7) cm, inc 2 sts mid under each sleeve every 7-4-3 (3-3.5-3.5) cm a total of 2-4-5 (7-7-8) times = 32-36-40 (44-46-48) sts. When piece measures 18-20-21 (26-30-34) cm, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round, then K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-8 (8-10-10) sts mid under each sleeve = 26-28-32 (36-36-38) sts left on the needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. YOKE: Switch to circular needle size 4 mm on body and slip sleeves onto same circular needle where cast off for armholes is = 138-148-168 (182-190-204) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work in garter st back and forth on needle over all sts – and K 1 row from WS before beg dec for raglan. RAGLAN: Dec 1 st on each side of all markers (= 8 dec) – read Decrease tip! Dec every 4 rows: 7-8-8 (9-10-11) times and then on every other row: 0-0-2 (2-2-2) times. NECK: At the same time when piece measures 21-23-25 (28-31-35) cm slip the 8-8-10 (10-10-12) outermost sts in each side towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Continue to dec for neck towards mid front on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all dec for raglan and neck there are 54-56-56 (62-62-64) sts left on the needle and piece measures approx. 26-28-30 (33-36-40) cm up to shoulder. ASSEMBLY: Knit up approx. 80 to 105 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on circular needle 4 mm with 2 threads Delight. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 54-60-60 (66-66-72) sts. Continue to work rib as follows (1st row = WS): 5 band sts rib, * P2, K4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and 5 band sts rib (from RS there are 5 band sts in rib and K2 on each side towards mid front). After 1 cm dec for 1 button hole over the other holes on the right side. When rib measures 2 cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (68)
Dana wrote:
Ich meinte an welchen Markierungsfäden sind die Abnahmen zu machen?
13.08.2013 - 19:59DROPS Design answered:
..hatte ich schon gedacht :)
15.08.2013 - 08:05Dana wrote:
Hallo, leider hilft mir Ihre Antwort nicht weiter. Ich bin mit dem Armloch und den Ärmeln schon fertig und auch mit dem Raglan. Ich habe noch die vier Markierungsfäden. Wo sind die Maschen für den Hals auf die Hilfsnadeln zu legen und an welchen Hilfsgeldern sind die Abnahmen zu machen?
13.08.2013 - 19:57DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Dana, unter dem Abschnitt "Hals" finden Sie das beschrieben: die Maschen werden an der vorderen Mitte auf den Hilfsfaden gelegt (damit sie nachher direkt wieder für das Bündchen gestrickt werden können) Wenn Sie das irritiert, können Sie die Maschen auch abketten und nachher wieder daraus Maschen auffassen. Sie arbeiten nun nicht mehr mit den Hilfsfäden, die waren nur für den Raglan. Die Abn sind am Halsausschnitt.
15.08.2013 - 08:04Dana wrote:
Guten Tag, ich sticke die Jacke in der Größe 12/18 Monate und bin mit dem Raglan fertig. Jetzt sind die äußersten 10 M auf eine Hilfsnade zu legen, sind das recht und links jeweils 5 M? An welchen Stellen nehme ich die weiteren Abnahmen von 2 M 2 Mal und 1 M 2 Mal vor?
12.08.2013 - 14:22DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Dana, Sie ketten pro Armloch 10 M ab, das sind je 5 M VOR und NACH der seitlichen Markierung. Sie Abn von 2 x 2 M und 2 x 1 M sind am Halsausschnitt.
13.08.2013 - 09:37Charlotte wrote:
Hallo, versuche mich gerade in der Grösse 2 Jahre und habe jetzt die 162 Maschen aufgenommen. Das scheint ziemlich viel zu sein für die Grösse. ( Habe genau das Garn, welches die Abbildung hat) Vielen Dank
29.01.2013 - 23:44DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Charlotte, haben Sie gesehen, dass die Maschenzahl nach der Blende auf 146 Maschen angepasst wird? Wenn Sie lieber ein engeres Bündchen möchten, können Sie gleich mit weniger Maschen beginnen.
01.02.2013 - 20:52Brombach wrote:
Hab direkt noch ne Frage: wenn ich nach dem Stilllegen und der Abnahme nur noch 54 M. auf der Nadel habe, muss ich die dann abketten bevor ich neue Maschen rund am Hals aufnehme?
25.01.2013 - 21:20Brombach wrote:
Bin jetzt mit der Abnahme beim Raglan fertig und hab noch 82 M. auf der Nadel. Jetzt muss ich ja die äußersten 8 Maschen auf Hilfsfäden lagern. Heißt das vorne auf jeder Seite 4 M. stilllegen? Wenn ich dann 2mal 2 Maschen abkette und 2 mal 1 komme ich aber nicht auf 54 Maschen am Ende. Was heißt denn gegen den Hals abketten?
25.01.2013 - 11:20DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Brombach, dürfen wir Sie bitten, für weitere Erklärungen der Anleitung in individuelle Strickhilfe den Laden zu kontaktieren, in dem Sie die Wolle gekauft haben.
26.01.2013 - 23:07Gudrun Sjöberg wrote:
Hej!Har nu stickat denna fina kofta i stl. 3/4 år och då var garnåtgången för liten. Behövde köpa till 0,5 hg. Har följt stickfasthet och mönstret.
22.01.2013 - 17:30Brombach wrote:
Habe jetzt 3 Wollknäul an dem Strickstück hängen (hab für Vorder-und Rückenteil und für jeweils einen Ärmel ein neues Knäul angefangen). Mit welchem Knäul strick ich denn jetzt weiter? Sorry für die vielen Fragen, aber wie gesagt, ist mein 1. Babyjäckchen. Vielen Dank schon mal.
22.01.2013 - 15:41DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Brombach - stricken Sie einfach mit einem Knäuel weiter und schneiden Sie die anderen ab. Achten Sie darauf, dass beide Ärmel gleich viele Reihen haben und alle Rumpfteile ebenso.
23.01.2013 - 09:55Brombach wrote:
Hallo! Ich habe jetzt das Vorder-und Rückenteil und beide Ärmel gestrickt. Habe die Ärmel zwischen die Maschen von den Vorderteilen und dem Rückenteil eingesetzt, d.h. erst 24 M.Vorderteil, dann den 1. Ärmel, dann 54 M. Rückenteil, dann 2. Ärmel und dann die M.vom 2. Vorderteil. Wenn ich jetzt weiterstricke, muss ich dann einfach die Maschen von den Ärmeln mit abstricken, als wenn alles ein Strickstück wäre?
22.01.2013 - 15:40DROPS Design answered:
Hallo Frau Brombach, ja , das ist richtig.
23.01.2013 - 09:53Brombach wrote:
Versuche mich zum 1. Mal an einem Babyjäckchen und bin mir nicht ganz sicher. In der Anleitung steht, dass man nach dem Bündchen in der 1. Runde die Maschenanzahl auf 118 Maschen anpassen soll. Werden alle 14 überschüssigen Maschen in 1 Runde abgenommen oder über mehrere Runden? Verteile ich die Abnahme dann auf die gesamte Runde oder nehme ich alle Maschen direkt am Anfang ab? Vielen Dank.
09.01.2013 - 22:40DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Brombach , es wird in einer Reihe gleichmäßig verteilt – aber nicht über den Blendenmaschen – abgenommen. Es ist nun deutlicher in er Anleitung vermerkt. Es stand in dieser Anleitung auch noch ein paar Mal „Abketten“ statt „Abnehmen“ – vielleicht hat Sie das auch irritiert, ich habe es nun ebenfalls korrigiert.
10.01.2013 - 13:55