DROPS Baby / 20 / 14

Nova by DROPS Design

Short sleeve cardigan knitted from side to side in garter st and lace pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

Tags: jackets, lace, sideways,
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-005-by
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Size: 6/9-12/18-24 months (3/4-5/6) years
Size in cm: 62/68 - 74/80 - 86/92 (98/104 -110/116)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 05, light pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – for crochet borders.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, no 521: 3 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
SLEEVELESS TOP:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

KNITTING TIP: When turning mid piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row in order to avoid a hole in transition.
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SLEEVELESS TOP:
Beg on left front piece and work towards the armhole, work wide shoulder, work back piece, the other shoulder and then right front piece.

LOOSELY cast on 62-68-78 (88-96) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with light pink and K 8 rows for front band (first row = RS).
Work next row as follows from RS: K 41-45-52 (60-65) sts, K the next 15 sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly (inc 1 st by making 1 YO), K the last 6-8-11 (13-16) sts = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. K 1 row on all sts (work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole).
Continue as follows: K 41-45-52 (60-65) sts (K these sts on all rows), chart M.1 (= 23 sts), K 6-8-11 (13-16) sts (K these sts on all rows).
AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows as follows - SEE KNITTING TIP:
* work the first 30-32-38 (42-47) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn (for all sizes this will be after 5 sts in M.1) and work return row, work the first 64-70-80 (90-98) sts, turn and work return row, work all 70-76-86 (96-104) sts, turn and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx 16-18-19 (20,5-22) cm from cast on row, measured where widest (= bottom edge).
Cut the thread.

Now slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts towards bottom edge on a stitch holder (= the side) = 29-31-34 (36-39) sts left on needle for wide shoulder.
Continue with shortened rows as follows (first row = from RS): * Work in pattern on the first 23-25-28 (30-33) sts, turn and work return row, work in pattern on all 29-31-34 (36-39) sts, turn and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 16-17-18 (18-20) cm from where sts were put on stitch holder. Cut the thread. Slip the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle for back piece and insert a marker in piece. Continue from bottom edge of jacket (first row = RS) in pattern and with shortened rows as described for front piece.
When piece measures 28-31-35 (37-40) cm from marker at the side, measured where widest (= bottom edge) cut the thread. Slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from bottom edge on a stitch holder (= the side). Continue on remaining sts for wide shoulder as described for the first shoulder until shoulders are the same length. Cut the thread. Slip the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle and continue as described for the other front piece. When right front piece is the same length as left front piece (without front band) work next row from RS as follows:
work 41-45-52 (60-65) sts, work the next 23 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly (dec by K2 tog), work the last 6-8-11 (13-16) sts = 62-68-78 (88-96) sts.
Now work front band as follows: K 3 rows on all sts.
On next row from RS make 3 buttonholes as follows (i.e. from bottom edge towards the top): K 41-45-53 (61-65) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog, K 7-8-9 (10-12) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog, K 7-8-9 (10-12) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog and finish with K1. Turn and K all sts. K 5 rows on all sts and cast off loosely.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border round bottom edge of jacket and round shoulder edges with crochet hook size 3 mm with white as follows: 1 dc, * 3 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-*. Cut and fasten thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.01.2011
VEST:... * work the first 30-32-38 (42-47) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn (for all sizes this will be after 5 sts in M.1) and work return row,...
Updated online: 26.10.2011
Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 05, light pink

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
= K2 tog into back of loop
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (184)

Cathy Rice 01.07.2020 - 17:17:

Just received wool to start this pattern, I thought I was an experienced knitter until I started reading the instructions ! It is a nightmare to understand ! Am I the only one that thinks this? The first short row knit 32st but the first row says knit k45! The chart doesn’t state which row you start with! Perhaps a complete tutorial on how it’s achieved would be helpful.

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 09:00:

Dear Mrs Rice, in 2nd size you will work the 76 sts as follows: 45 sts in garter stitch, M.1 (= 23 sts) and 8 sts in garter stitch - but to get the correct shape, you will work with short rows as explained, ie 2 rows over 32 sts, 2 rows over 50 sts etc... See also the video to this pattern. Happy knitting!

Bükki Márta 15.06.2020 - 16:29:

A magyar leírásban \"= 1 szemet simán leemelünk, 1 sima, és a leemelt szemet az lekötött szemen áthúzzuk\" ez rossz, helyesen: \"= 1 szemet simán leemelünk, 2 szemet simán összekötünk, és a leemelt szemet az lekötött szemen áthúzzuk\"

Kelly 25.05.2020 - 16:39:

Row 7 appears to show a shared stitch right in the middle. How do you complete this stitch?

DROPS Design 26.05.2020 kl. 01:45:

Dear Kelly, in the middle of row 7 there is a double decrease, in which you knit three stitch into one, thus decreasing one stitch of each side of the middle stitct. As it is said in teh diagram explanation, you should slip one stitch without knitting it, knit the nex 2 stitch together, and then pass the knitted together stitches over the slipped stitches . Happy Knitting!

Kelly Wright 25.05.2020 - 16:38:

I'm very confused by the M1 section of this pattern. I've started this work over many times now, I've watched the video many times as well. I don't really understand if the M1 pattern is worked over 8 rows how you ever complete the M1 pattern because the first 2 rows are the short rows that never get to the M1 section? I'm even more confused by the video because it looks like the instructor is pointing to the same 3 rows so I never see how she gets to the top of the chart.

DROPS Design 26.05.2020 kl. 08:11:

Dear Mrs Wright, the first and last 6 sts are repeated over 2 rows but the middle 9 sts in M.1 are worked over 8. So that when you work the short rows, you will work the first few sts of M.1 over 2 rows, then, on next row, you will work the middle lace pattern. Just work the short rows as stated and at the same time, work the next row over the sts in M.1 you have to work so that the middle panel keeps over a 8 rows repeat. Happy knitting!

Latha 26.02.2020 - 05:22:

On row 7 of M1 the Skipo and K 2 tog share a stitch. How do you do that?

DROPS Design 26.02.2020 kl. 07:16:

Hi Latha, The circle symbol is a yarn over, which you do before knitting 2 together. Happy knitting!

Stephan 11.02.2020 - 17:10:

Werden die maschen 70 bis 76 nicht gestrickt.Ich stricke die gr. 12-18 monate

DROPS Design 12.02.2020 kl. 08:34:

Lieber Stephan, die 6 letzten Maschen (=70 bis 76) sind beim Hals und diese werden bei den 2 letzten verkürzten Reihen gestrickt = wenn man von *bis* strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rous 10.12.2019 - 13:12:

Bonjour il dois y avoir un problème dans votre diagramme visionné plusieurs fois tricoté plusieurs fois sur les rang impair pas le même dessin sur l'endroit sur les 5 premières maille et les 5 dernières mailles merci d'éclaircir ces maille en écrit svp merci à vous.

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 13:31:

Bonjour Mme Rous, Sur l'endroit, les 5 premières mailles de M.1 se tricotent ainsi: 3 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end, et les 5 dernières mailles se tricotent ainsi: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end, 2 m end. Sur l'envers, tricotez les 5 premières m de M.1 ainsi: 3 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens torse à l'end et les 5 dernières m de M.1: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens torse à l'end, 2 m end. Bon tricot!

Rous 03.12.2019 - 19:01:

Ré bonjour je vous reposé une question (Taille 4) total des mailles 96. (65+23+6= 94. Donc. 96-94=2 question bête y'a t'il 1maille lisière de chaque côté se n'est pas indiqué sur les explication pouvez-vous me dire ?? En vous remerciant

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 08:17:

Bonjour Mme Rous, on n'ajoute pas de mailles lisières, on doit avoir 96 mailles (4ème taille) que l'on tricote ainsi, vu sur l'endroit: 60 m point mousse (bas du gilet), (M.1 (= 23 m) et 13 m point mousse (bordure d'encolure). Ainsi, la 1ère et la dernière maille (en haut et en bas du gilet) vont se tricoter simplement au point mousse, comme les autres. Bon tricot!

Rous 03.12.2019 - 09:13:

Bonjour, pour les rang raccourci 1fois 42 .1fois 65, 1 fois 5mailles diagramme, puis le reste du diagramme, puis les 6 dernières maille, une fois que j'ai terminé cette série de rang raccourci, je fini l'intégralité du diagramme où je recommence les rang raccourci. J'espère vous avoir bien expliqué en vous remerciant

DROPS Design 03.12.2019 kl. 12:57:

Bonjour Mme Rous, dans la 4ème taille, vous tricotez: *2 rangs sur 42 m, 2 rangs sur 65 m, 2 rangs sur 90 m, 2 rangs sur 96 m*, et vous répétez ces 8 rangs; en même temps, tricotez le diagramme sur les mailles concernées. Vous pouvez également consulter cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

Mirela 30.11.2019 - 18:30:

Hej jeg vil spørge dig om hvis jeg vil laver en på 4 måneder Hvor meget skal jeg leve mæske

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