DROPS / 123 / 9

Lady Love by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Nepal” with cables. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no NE-004
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 3112, powder pink

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm – for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON no 522: 5 pcs..

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2 and M.3 - pattern in diagrams is seen from RS (Row 1 = WS).
DECREASING TIP (applies to neck):
Dec from RS inside 5 garter sts.
Dec as follows AFTER 5 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Dec as follows BEFORE 5 sts: K2 tog.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 10, 16, 22 and 28 cm.
SIZE M: 3, 10, 16, 23 and 29 cm.
SIZE L: 3, 10, 17, 23 and 30 cm.
SIZE XL: 4, 11, 18, 24 and 31 cm.
SIZE XXL: 4, 11, 18, 25 and 32 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 4, 11, 19, 26 and 33 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 76-84-92-100-108-116 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with Nepal. K 3 rows. Work next row as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 14-17-20-23-26-29 sts, * K2 in each of the next 2 sts, K1, K2 in each of the next 2 sts *, K 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts, repeat from *-*, K 14-17-20-23-26-29 sts and 1 edge st in garter st = 84-92-100-108-116-124 sts.
Change to needle size 5 mm, and work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, P 5-8-11-14-17-20 sts, K3, M.1 (= 21 sts), K3, P 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts, K3, M.1 (= 21 sts), K3, P 5-8-11-14-17-20 sts and 1 edge st in garter st. Work 2 vertical repeats of M.1, remaining sts with K over K and P over P. After M.1 work M.2 with dec and inc as shown in diagram (work remaining sts as before). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After M.2 there are 84-92-100-108-116-124 sts on needle. Continue in M.3 over M.2 until finished measurements (work remaining sts as before). When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm cast off for armhole at the beg of every row each side: 4-5-6-7-8-9 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-3-3-4 times and 1 st 2-2-4-4-6-6 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts on needle. Continue in pattern as before with 1 edge st each side towards armhole. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm work 4 rows garter st on the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts, then cast off the middle 14-16-18-20-22-24 sts for neck. Complete each shoulder (= 27 sts) separately. Continue with 5 garter sts towards neck. When piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm dec 4 sts evenly over M.3 = 23 sts left on needle. On next row cast off with K over K and P over P.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 43-47-51-55-59-63 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 5 front band sts towards front edge) on needle size 4 mm with Nepal. K 3 rows. Work next row as follows (from RS with start from the side): 1 edge st in garter st, K 14-17-20-23-26-29 sts, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, K1, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, K 18-19-20-21-22-23 sts and 5 front band sts in garter st = 47-51-55-59-63-67 sts. Change to needle size 5 mm, work next row as follows from WS: 5 front band sts in garter st, P 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts, K3, M.1 (= 21 sts), K3, P 5-8-11-14-17-20 sts and 1 edge st in garter st. Work 2 vertical repeats of M.1, remaining sts with K over K and P over P. Then work M.2 over M.1 (with remaining sts as before). After M.2 there are 47-51-55-59-63-67 sts on needle, Continue with M.3 over M.2 until finished measurements (with remaining sts as before). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm work 2 rows back and forth on the 5 front band sts only. Continue on all sts as before – AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st towards neck – SEE DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 7-8-9-10-11-12 times and then on every 4th row 5 times for all sizes. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 27 sts on needle. Continue in pattern. When piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm dec 4 sts evenly over M.3 = 23 sts left on needle. On next row cast off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece but mirrored. Remember BUTTONHOLES on front band – see above.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 49-51-53-55-57-59 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with Nepal. K 3 rows and work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, K 21-22-23-24-25-26 sts, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, K1, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, K 21-22-23-24-25-26 sts and 1 edge st in garter st = 53-55-57-59-61-63 sts.
Change to needle size 5 mm, and work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, P 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts, K3, M.1, K3, P 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts and 1 edge st in garter st.
Work 1 vertical repeat of M.1, with remaining sts K over K and P over P. After M.1 work M.2 and then M.3 until finished measurements (with remaining sts as before). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15 cm inc 1 st each side inside edge st, and repeat the inc on every 6-6-5-4-3.5-3 cm a total of 6-6-7-8-9-10 times = 65-67-71-75-79-83 sts (work inc sts in stocking st). When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-45 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times, then 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 57 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 58 cm for all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seam inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.01.2012
A new chart has been added.
Updated online: 03.05.2013
n/a

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 tog from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2 tog, K2 from cable needle
= Slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 in st on cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2 in next st and K2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 123-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Salaun Florence 04.09.2018 - 17:25:

Bonjour, Je souhaite réaliser ce modèle mais je ne comprends pas à quelle moment commencer les diminutions pour cintrer le modèle. vous dites dans les explications,après M1 tricoter M2 en tenant compte des diminutions et augmentations....mais rien ne nous signale le nombre de mailles à diminuer et à augmenter. Pouvez-vous une explication du schéma s\\\'il vous plait ?\\r\\nAu plaissir de vous lire \\r\\nMme SALAÜN Florence

DROPS Design 05.09.2018 kl. 07:57:

Bonjour Mme Salaun, les diminutions et augmentations du bas du gilet sont incluses dans A.2: on va diminuer les mailles des torsades puis les augmenter pour donner la forme cintrée du gilet. Bon tricot!

Paola 09.09.2015 - 19:13:

Sto facendo questo maglioncino e mi sto rendendo conto che le asole non sono centrate forse è meglio fare prima la gettata poi le due maglie insieme. Forse lo sfascerò. Comunque è molto bello. Paola

DROPS Design 10.09.2015 kl. 13:18:

Buongiorno Paola. Lavorando le asole come indicato nel modello il bordo esterno risulta leggermente più sostenuto. Prima di disfare, può provare ad appoggiare sull'asola il bottone. Queste piccole asimmetrie possono essere meno evidenti con un bottone di misura adeguata. Buon lavoro!

Paola 09.09.2015 - 09:36:

Sto facendo questo maglioncino e mi sto rendendo conto che le asole non sono centrate forse è meglio fare prima la gettata poi le due maglie insieme. Forse lo sfascerò. Comunque è molto bello. Paola

Laura Read 18.01.2014 - 20:05:

Where the pattern says to "Work 2 vertical repeats of M.1," will I be working M.1 a total of 3 times or only 2? Thank you.

DROPS Design 20.01.2014 kl. 08:49:

Dear Mrs Read, you will work M.1 a total of 2 times. Happy knitting!

Sabine 26.09.2013 - 14:45:

Eine Frage zu den Ärmeln: beim Abketten für die Armkugel steht dort "danach auf beiden Seiten 2 M.abk bis die Arbeit 57 cm misst". Heißt das in jeder Reihe je 2M. abketten bis zu 57 cm? Oder die beiden Maschen abketten, und dann weiterstricken, bis die 57 cm erreicht sind??

DROPS Design 27.09.2013 kl. 08:33:

Liebe Sabine, für die Form der Armkugel werden so lange je 2 M abgekettet, bis die Arb 57 cm misst.

Sofia 26.04.2013 - 13:28:

På ärmen står det inte att man ska byta till sticka 5, som man gjort på de övriga delarna. Stämmer det att hela ärmen ska stickas på st 4?

DROPS Design 14.05.2013 kl. 10:58:

Det er en fejl. Vi har rettet i mönstret. Tack!

Sofia 15.04.2013 - 01:25:

Glöm det, jag tänkte fel. Det stämmer såklart :)

Sofia 15.04.2013 - 01:11:

Precis när man ska börja med M.2 på bakstycket, har man st ett avigt v, men M.2 verkar börja med ett avigt v eftersom alla flätor ska st från rätsidan. Är det fel i diagrammet?

Jana P 18.02.2013 - 09:28:

Dobry den, vo vysvetlivkach k nakresu je chyba v preklade, pri "sipke" nahor ma byt popis 2 oka odlozime na pomocnou jehlici PRED praci, 2 oka spleteme hladce, oka z pomocne jehlice upleteme hladce. Povodny popis sposobi zly vzor.

Jana P 18.02.2013 - 09:25:

Dobry den, v navode na model 123-9 DROPS propínací svetřík z příze "Nepal" s copánkovým vzorem, je zly preklad pri vysvetlivkach k osmickam / pri "sipke" nahor ma byt popis: 2 oka odlozime na pomocnou jehlici PRED praci, 2 oka spleteme hladce, oka z pomocne jehlice upleteme hladce. Povodny popis v cestine sposobi pokazenie vzoru.

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