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  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Socks & Booties
  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 19
  6. 9

Sweet Buttercup Socks by DROPS Design

Crochet booties with fan pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

Keywords: fan pattern, slippers

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DROPS Baby 19-9
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-030-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 02, off-white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 dc/tr = width 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 3.35 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.35£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
BOOTIES:

CROCHET INFO:
At beg of every row with dc replace first dc with 1 ch and finish row with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.
At beg of every round with dc replace first dc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
At beg of every round with tr replace first tr with 3 ch and at the end of round crochet 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Crochet in each st (not between).
DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 dc/tr by working 2 dc/tr tog as follows: Crochet 1 dc/tr but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet next dc/tr and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all 3 sts on hook = 1 dec dc/tr.
CROCHET TIP:
On the round after the tr at the front of bootie have been crochet tog, tighten the thread between each st when working the front of the bootie to make sure the middle piece isn’t too loose.
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BOOTIE:

See CROCHET INFO and beg with the sole. Crochet 14-16-19 (25-28) ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 3 mm with Baby Merino.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 12-14-17 (23-26) ch = 13-15-18 (24-27) dc, turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each dc from previous row, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 dc at the beg and at the end of first row by working 3 dc in the first and the last dc on row = 17-19-22 (28-31) dc.
Crochet dc back and forth until 1 row remain before piece measures 3-4-4 (4.5-5) cm.
Now dec 2 dc each side – see DECREASING TIP = 13-15-18 (24-27) dc on row – NOTE at the end of row beg dec when 4 dc remain, then crochet the last dc tog 2 by 2. Piece measures approx 3-4-4 (4.5-5) cm.
Cut and fasten thread.

Now continue with tr round the sole as follows:
ROUND 1: Beg mid back (= mid one short side) - crochet 1 dc in first st, 3 ch (= 1 tr), crochet 1-2-2 (3-3) tr to the corner, 2 tr in corner, 1 tr in each of the 13-15-18 (24-27) dc along the side, 2 tr in corner, 4-6-6 (8-8) tr along the short side (= toe), 2 tr in corner, 13-15-18 (24-27) tr along the side, 2 tr in corner and 2-3-3 (4-4) tr along the short side to mid back, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 42-50-56 (72-78) tr.
NEXT ROUND FOR SIZE 2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS (do not crochet this round for the other sizes): Crochet 1 round with 1 tr in each tr.
NEXT ROUND FOR ALL SIZES:
Crochet 1 tr in each tr but dec 1 tr in each of the 2 corners at the front on toe – see DECREASING TIP = 40-48-54 (70-76) tr.
Continue as follows FROM MID BACK (crochet 1 st in each st from previous round):
ROUND 1: 14-17-20 (27-30) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog – see DECREASING TIP , 6-8-8 (10-10) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and 14-17-20 (27-30) dc = 38-46-52 (68-74) sts.
ROUND 2: 13-16-19 (26-29) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, 6-8-8 (10-10) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and 13-16-19 (26-29) dc = 36-44-50 (66-72) sts.
ROUND 3: 12-15-18 (25-28) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, 6-8-8 (10-10) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and 12-15-18 (25-28) dc = 34-42-48 (64-70) sts.
ROUND 4 for SIZE 2 YEARS and 3/4 YEARS (do not crochet this round for the other sizes): (24-27) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, (10-10) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and (24-27) dc = (62-68) sts.
ROUND 5 for SIZE 3/4 YEARS (do not crochet this round for the other sizes): (26) DC, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, (10) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and (26) dc = (66) sts.
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL SIZES: 11-14-17 (23-25) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tog on the next 10-12-12 (14-14) tr, 1 htr and 11-14-17 (23-25) dc = 29-36-42 (55-59) sts.
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL SIZES: SEE CROCHET TIP! 9-12-15 (21-23) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, 5-6-6 (7-7) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and 9-12-15 (21-23 dc = 27-34-40 (53-57) sts.
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS FOR SIZE 2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS (do not crochet this round for the other sizes): (20-22) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, (7-7) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and 20-22 dc = (51-55) sts.
ALL SIZES: = 27-34-40 (51-55) sts. Crochet 2-2-3 (3-4) rounds with 1 tr in each tr, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-0-0 (7-3) tr evenly on first round – SEE DECREASING TIP = 26-34-40 (44-52) tr.
FAN PATTERN:
Crochet a border with fan pattern round the top of leg as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sl st in first st, * 3 ch, skip approx 1 to 3 sts, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in sl st from beg of round = 10-10-10 (12-12) ch-loops.
ROUND 2: Crochet sl sts to the middle of the first ch-loop, 3 ch, * 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in next ch-loop, 1 tr in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 5-5-5 (6-6) fans.
ROUND 3: 3 ch, * 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in the middle of tr-group (i.e. in ch-loop at the top of fan), 1 tr in next tr from previous round (i.e. in tr between fans) *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round, cut and fasten thread. Crochet 1 more bootie.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.11.2013
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS FOR SIZE 2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS (do not crochet this round for the other sizes): (20-22) dc, 1 htr, crochet 2 tr tog, (7-7) tr, crochet 2 tr tog, 1 htr and 20-22 dc = (51-55) sts.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Marielle wrote:

Jag hittar inte hur många luftmassor jag ska lägga upp.

20.03.2021 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marielle. Slik står det i oppskriften: TOFFEL: LÄS VIRKINFO och börja med sulan. Virka 14-16-19 (25-28) lm (inkl 1 lm till att vända med) med virknål nr 3 med Baby Merino. mvh DROPS design

22.03.2021 kl. 15:36

country flag Hélène Sand Pedersen wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de crocheter le premier chausson et rencontre un problème à l'étape du point éventails. Après le tour 1, j'ai bien 10 arceaux, mais après le tour 2, je n'ai pas 5 cinq éventails, seulement 4. Il est écrit : "4B - 2 ml - 4B dans l'arceau suivant - 1B dans l'arceau suivant" ; il faut donc crocheter dans 3 arceaux en tout, c'est ça ? Mais dans ce cas, c'est logique que je n'ai pas 5 éventails puisque 10/5=2 arceaux. Merci d'avance.

16.04.2019 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène. Dans le premier arceau, vous crochetez 4 B + 2 ml + 4 B , dans l'arceau suivant 1 B; puis encore 4 B + 2 ml + 4 B (troisième arceau) et 1 B dans l’arceau suivant (quatrième) et ainsi sur tous le 10 arceaux. De cette façon, à la fin du tour 2, vous aurez 5 éventails. Bon crochet!

16.04.2019 kl. 19:24

country flag Ildiko wrote:

I would like to get some tip on how to make the sole of these booties non-slippery. I prepared them and they are utterly loved by my little one, but they are quite slippery (worked with yarn Flora). Thank you!

16.01.2019 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ilkido, please contact the store where you bought the yarn - even per mail or telephone - they may have tipps for you. Happy crocheting!

17.01.2019 kl. 08:31

country flag Desiree De Lange wrote:

In patroon babydrops 19-9 slofjes vraag over waaierpatroon: Toer 1: *3 L, sla ongeveer 1 to 3 st over, Wat wordt met dat laatste bedoeld? Dat begrijp ik niet

28.12.2016 - 13:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Desiree. Dat je 1 tot 3 steken moet overslaan - het is een beetje inschatten wat het mooiste valt.

02.01.2017 kl. 12:03

country flag Marte wrote:

Hvordan hekler jeg hvis jeg skal ha størrelse 1/3? Hvordan leser jeg oppskriften da?

03.03.2015 - 08:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marte. Saa hekler du den mindste str = förste tal i beskrivelsen med flere antal. F.eks: Hekle 14 lm (inkl 1 lm til å snu med) på nål 3 med Baby Merino. Første rad hekles slik: 1 fm i 2.lm fra nålen, 1 fm i hver av de neste 12 lm = 13 fm, snu arb. Osv. God fornöjelse.

03.03.2015 kl. 13:56

country flag Melanie Jahrstorfer wrote:

Hallo Zusammen, versuche gerade verzweifelt den BAbyschuh Baby Drops 19-9 zu häkeln leider versteh ich die Anleitung für die Sohle nicht. Gibt es da eine Videoanleitung? Mfg jahrstorfer

02.02.2015 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Die 1.R besteht aus festen M. In der nächsten R nehmen Sie am Anfang und am Ende der R je 2 M zu, indem Sie in die 1. fM und die letzte M nicht 1 fM, sondern je 3 fM häkeln, Sie stechen also 3x in die 1. M und 3x in die letzte M ein. Dann häkeln Sie ohne Zunahmen fM hin und zurück, so lange, bis nur noch 1 R fehlt, um eine Gesamthöhe von 3-4-4 (4,5-5) cm ab Anschlag zu erreichen. Nun nehmen Sie am Anfang und am Ende der nächsten R jeweils 2 fM ab, dafür häkeln Sie die ersten 2 fM zusammen, dann… unten geht's weiter!

04.02.2015 kl. 18:47

country flag Jahrstorfer wrote:

Hallo zusammen, verstehe leider des mit der Sohle nicht gibt es da vllt eine Videoanleitung? mfg jahrstorfer

02.02.2015 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Fortsetzung: ... häkeln Sie die nächsten 2 fM zusammen, häkeln die R so weit, bis noch 4 fM übrig sind, diese häkeln Sie auch wieder paarweise zusammen (also jeweils 2 fM zu 1 fM zusammenhäkeln). Dann häkeln Sie eine Stäbchen-Runde um das ganze Stück, das Sie bisher gehäkelt haben, Sie häkeln also nicht mehr in Hin- und Rück-R weiter, sondern rundum, wie in der Anleitung beschrieben.

04.02.2015 kl. 18:50

country flag Basia wrote:

Mam nadzieje ze po polsku będzie badziej jasne. kiedy można sie spodziewac tłumaczenia? pozdrawiam

01.05.2014 - 13:25

Basia wrote:

Ale dziwnie rozpisany ten wzór. pół dnia musiałam rozszyfrowywac o co autorowi chodziło. a wszystko rozjasnił by jakiś schemat i pisanie wprost. pozdrawiam

15.04.2014 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Czy tłumaczenie na polski coś pomoże w tej chwili? Pozdrawiam

15.04.2014 kl. 18:30

country flag Tina Stormfeldt wrote:

Do I have to do the; CROCHET INFO: At the first row as well? If so, how do I do that.

09.02.2014 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stormfeldt, on 1st row, you crochet in the 2nd ch from hook, and 1 st in each ch to get the correct number of st. Happy crocheting!

10.02.2014 kl. 09:58

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