DROPS Extra / 0-623

Sunny Morning by DROPS Design

Set comprises: Crochet DROPS place mat, egg warmer and serviette ring in ”Safran” and ”Glitter”.

DROPS design: Pattern no E-156
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PLACE MAT:
Measurements small mat: approx 20 cm in diameter
Measurements large mat: approx 30 cm in diameter (or desired size)
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 11, strong yellow
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 01, gold

1 ball of Safran makes 2 small place mats or 1 large.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 dc = width 10 cm.
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EGG WARMER:
Height: approx 14 cm
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN
50 g colour no 11, strong yellow
A small remnant of colour no 13, raspberry for beak and comb
A small remnant of colour no 16, black for eyes
And use: DROPS GLITTER
2 spools colour no 01, gold
A small remnant of colour no 08, red for beak and comb

1 ball of Safran makes 4 egg warmers.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 dc = width 10 cm.
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SERVIETTE RING:
Measurements: approx 4.5 cm in diameter
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 11, strong yellow
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 01, gold

1 ball of Safran makes 4 serviette rings.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 dc = width 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.60 £ /10g
DROPS Glitter colours DROPS Glitter colours 2.60 £ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Glitter gold & silver DROPS Glitter gold & silver 1.60 £ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO-1 (applies to place mats):
On rounds with only dc replace first dc with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (applies to egg warmer and serviette ring):
Replace first dc with 1 ch at beg of each round. Finish each round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

CROCHET 2 DC TOG (applies to egg warmer):
Insert hook in first dc, pull thread through, insert hook in next dc and pull thread through, YO and now pull thread through all 3 loops on hook = 1 dec dc.
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SMALL PLACE MAT:
Crochet 8 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm and 1 strand strong yellow + 2 threads gold Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. See CROCHET INFO-1.
ROUND 1: 24 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: 5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, crochet as follows in each ch-loop all the way round: 1 dc + 1 ch + 1 dc + 1 ch, finish round with 1 sl st in first ch = 24 dc with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 4: 1 sl st in first dc, 1 sl st in first ch, 5 ch, 1 triple tr in the same ch, * 7 ch, now work 4 triple tr tog as follows: work 2 triple tr in the same ch, but wait with last YO and pull-through on both triple tr, skip 1 dc + 1 ch + 1 dc, work 1 triple tr in next ch, but wait with last YO and pull-through, then work the last triple tr in the same ch and pull last YO through all 5 sts on hook *, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, 7 ch, crochet 2 triple tr tog in the same ch (but wait with last YO and pull-through on both), crochet 1 sl st in 5th ch from beg of round and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 7 dtr in the same ch-loop, then 8 dtr in each ch-loop, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 12 dtr-groups with 8 dtr in each.
ROUND 6: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, then 1 dc in each dtr and 1 dc between each dtr-group all the way round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 108 dc.
ROUND 7: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), skip 1 dc, * 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch (make sure to make 1 ch the same size as 1 dc on previous row, otherwise the round will be too tight), skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 54 tr with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 8: 1 ch, then 2 and 3 dc alternately in each ch all the way round, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 135 dc.
ROUND 9: 1 dc in each dc = 135 dc.
ROUND 10 (= lace pattern): 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, * 5 ch, 1 tr in 2nd ch just crochet, 1 dtr in first ch just crochet, skip 4 dc, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st) = 27 loops. Cut and fasten thread.
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LARGE PLACE MAT:
Like small place mat up to and inclusive of round 9.
ROUND 10-12: Like round 9 = 135 dc.
ROUND 13: * 1 dc in each of the first 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* all the way round = 150 dc.
ROUND 14-15: 1 dc in each dc = 150 dc. ROUND 16: * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc *, repeat from *-* all the way round = 165 dc.
ROUND 17: 1 dc in each dc = 165 dc.
ROUND 18: * 1 dc in each of the first 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* all the way round = 176 dc.
ROUND 19: 1 dc in each dc = 176 dc.
NOTE: If you want the place mat larger repeat round 18 and 19, but for every time round 18 is repeated work 1 more dc between each inc. Also make sure number of sts is divisible by 2 before round 20 (if making the mat larger you will have to adjust the number of tr and dc below accordingly).
ROUND 20: Like round 7 = 88 tr with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 21: Like round 8 = 220 dc.
ROUND 22: 1 dc in each dc = 220 dc.
ROUND 23: Work lace pattern as described for round 10 on small mat = 44 loops. Cut and fasten thread.
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EGG WARMER:
Crochet 44 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm and 1 thread strong yellow + 2 threads gold Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 35 dc.
See CROCHET INFO-2! Continue in the round with 1 dc in each dc until piece measures 2 cm. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back. Now dec 1 dc by working the first 2 dc after marker tog - see above. On next round dec 1 dc by working the last 2 dc before marker tog. Continue to dec 1 dc on each round, after and before marker alternately. When 5 dc remain, cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.
LACE PATTERN AT BOTTOM:
Crochet a border round the bottom of egg warmer with 1 thread strong yellow + 2 threads gold Glitter as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 5 ch, 1 tr in 2nd ch just crochet, 1 dtr in first ch just crochet, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st). Cut and fasten thread.
BEAK:
Beg mid front approx 2.5-3 cm from the top and crochet from bottom up as follows: 1 sl st in egg warmer with 1 thread raspberry + 1 thread red Glitter, 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 0.5 cm, 1 sl st in next st, cut and fasten thread on the inside of piece.
COMB:
Beg approx 1 cm over the beak and work 1 dc in egg warmer with 1 thread raspberry + 1 thread red Glitter, 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 0.5 cm, * 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip approx 0.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times to make the comb sit at the top of head, cut and fasten thread on the inside of piece.
EYES:
Embroider an eye each side of head approx 2 cm from the top with black Safran.
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SERVIETTE RING:
Crochet 38 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm with 1 strand strong yellow + 2 threads gold Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, 1 dc in next ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 30 dc.
ROUND 2: 1 dc in each dc.
ROUND 3: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 15 tr with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 4: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, then 1 dc in each ch and 1 dc in each tr all the way round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 30 dc.
Continue with 1 dc in each st all the way round until piece measures 5 cm.
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: 2 ch, * skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round (= folding edge).
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: 1 ch, 1 dc in sl st, then 1 dc in each ch and 1 dc in each dc all the way round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 30 dc.

Work 2 rounds with 1 dc in each dc. Fold the upper part of serviette ring towards RS along folding edge and crochet next round as follows from RS (= lace pattern): * 5 ch, 1 tr in 2nd ch just crochet, 1 dtr in first ch just crochet, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st). Cut and fasten thread. Crochet a similar lace pattern at the other end of serviette ring. Cut and fasten thread.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-623) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Hilde Nilsson 10.12.2019 - 08:25:

Hej jag fårstår inte beskrivningen på varv 10? jag ska påbörja sista varvet på stora tallriksunderlägget. v 23 är virkat i fm och varv 24(10) är i lm..kan du beskriva v 10 på ett annat sätt?

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 10:08:

Hei Hilde! Slik hekles blondekanten: 1 luftmaske, 1 fastmaske i kjedemasken, *hekle 5 luftmasker, 1 stav i 2. luftmaske i luftmaskelenken (her referes det til de 5 luftmaskene som nettopp ble heklet), deretter hekles det en dobbeltstav i den 1. luftmasken i luftmaskelenken, hopp over 4 fastmasker, 1 fastmaske i neste maske*. Gjenta ** til runden er slutt, lykke til!

Cherie Iverson 06.08.2019 - 18:22:

Do you have these patterns in English? Really like them but I do not speak Swedish or Norwegian. Thank you, Cherie Iverson

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 18:33:

Hello Cherie. Here you can find the English /us pattern. To change language, it’s enough for you to choose your language in the drop down menu “choose your language” just under the picture. Happy crafting!

Outi 13.04.2019 - 11:59:

4krs lauta-alusta on ihan outoja numeroita. Esim. 1 3 pylvästä ketjusilmukkaan. Mitäs se tarkoittaa?

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 17:40:

Hei, 3p tarkoittaa kolmoispylvästä.

Holly 02.07.2018 - 19:57:

With the small place mat; I don't understand round 8. I crochet one sc in first space, then crochet two sc's in the next space, then crochet 3 sc's in the next space; then start over again...?? I end up with a much smaller amount than listed.

DROPS Design 03.07.2018 kl. 08:28:

Dear Holly, you will work round 8 as follows: ch1, *2 sc in next chain, 3 sc in next chain*, repeat from *-* all the round and join with 1 sl st in the ch from beg of round. There are 54 chains on round 7: (27x2 sc) + (27x3sc) = 135 sc over 54 chains. Happy crocheting!

Lucie 02.02.2018 - 18:45:

0-623 návod na prostirku: v češtině není přiloženo video to jsem našla jen v komentářích. A poprosím zda je správně návod malá prostírka řada 6: protože dle videa zas nesouhlasí. Děkuji

Vita 27.10.2015 - 10:18:

Hvis man ønsker at gøre den store dækkeserviet større ved at gentage omgang 18 og 19, skal masketallet kunne deles med 4 (ikke 2) før omgang 20 hækles

Maria-Emma 19.08.2013 - 18:27:

Maria-Emma Forster 19.08.2013 kl. 14:55: Hallo Anja, leider komme ich auch nicht mit der 4. Reihe klar. Bis zum ersten * ist in Ordnung, aber dann, ab den 7 Lfm klappt es nicht mehr. Könntest du es mir in deutsch erklären? Ich wäre Dir unendlich dankbar. LG Maria-Emma

DROPS Design 20.08.2013 kl. 09:30:

Liebe Maria-Emma, Anja schrieb, dass das este Blütenblatt zunächst nur zur Hälfte gehäkelt wird und erst am Ende der Rd beendet wird. Hilft das schon weiter?

Bodil Engen Lund 10.08.2013 - 18:48:

Heller den lille brikken. Har kommet til omgang 4, får det ikke helt til å stemme med oppskriften. Trenger hjelp.

DROPS Design 12.11.2013 kl. 10:44:

Følg opskriften men se videoen her:

Crochet: Flower circle from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Anja 21.03.2013 - 19:01:

Let me give you one more advice: the first petal is just half finished when you start the second. But you ment to use the same cain stitch for the first half of the first petal AND the first half of the second petal as well. At the end of round 4 you complete the last petal.

Anja 21.03.2013 - 12:19:

Hi kristen, hope i can help. round 4 is confusing. it just meens: on top of the 12 curved parts you got from round 3 you are ment to put 12 petals, consist out of a group of 4 tripple crochets.

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