Toasted Delight by DROPS Design

DROPS Men’s socks in ”Delight”. Size 38-46

Keywords: socks, stocking stitch
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-004
Size: 38/40 - 41/43 – 44/46

Foot length: approx 24 - 27 - 30 cm
Leg length: approx 21 - 22 - 23 cm

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes colour no 07, beige/blue mix

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Row 1 (= RS): Work stocking st until 8-8-9 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work stocking st until 8-8-9 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): ): Work stocking st until 7-7-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): ): Work stocking st until 7-7-8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso,
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until 16-16-18 sts remain on needle.
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 60-64-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Delight. K 2 rounds and continue in rib, K2/P2, until piece measures 4-5-5 cm. Now continue in rib on the first 30-30-34 sts (the first and last 2 sts = K) and work remaining sts in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 21-22-23 cm keep the first 30-30-34 sts on needle for heel and slip remaining 30-34-34 sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Continue back and forth on heel-sts in rib for 5-5.5-6 cm. Insert a marker in heel – now measure piece from here! Now dec for heel – see HEEL DECREASES. After heel dec pick up 13-14-16 sts each side of heel and slip the 30-34-34 sts from upper foot back on needle = 72-78-84 sts. Insert a marker each side of the 30-34-34 sts on upper foot. Continue in stocking st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog into back of loop the last 2 sts before the 30-34-34 sts on upper foot, and K tog the first 2 sts after the 30-34-34 sts on upper foot. Dec like this on every other round a total of 10-11-12 times = 52-56-60 sts. Continue until piece measures 20-22-25 cm from marker on heel (= 4-5-5 cm remain). Insert a marker each side with 26-28-30 sts on upper foot and under foot. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes each side of both markers as follows: Before marker: K2 tog. After marker: K2 tog into back of loop. Repeat the dec each side on every other round a total of 4-7-6 times and then on every round 6-4-6 times = 12 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts and fasten.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-622) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Carola wrote:

Hur ska man lyfta maskorna när man gör hälen? Rät lyftning på rätsidan, avig på avigsidan?

30.01.2021 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carola. Ja det stämmer. Mvh DROPS Design

03.02.2021 kl. 08:38

country flag Lina Bertram wrote:

Ich bin leider ein wenig verzweifelt was die Fersenabnahme angeht... Ich stricke für Größe 44, also habe ich insgesamt 34 Maschen auf meinen Nadeln. Wie soll ich runter auf 9 kommen in der ersten Reihe? Vielen Dank.

15.01.2021 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bertram, dieses Video zeigt, wie man die Fersenabnahmen strickt - folgen Sie die richtigen Maschenanzahl bei der Größe; bei der 1. Reihe stricken Sie bis 9 Maschen bleiben (= 25 M), dann nehmen Sie wie beschrieben ab, wenden, stricken Sie die Rückreihe bis 9 Maschen bleiben und stricken Sie die Abnahme, und so immer weiter stricken, dh wenden, und die letzte M auf der nadel mit der ersten M auf der linke Nadel abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.01.2021 kl. 07:51

country flag Louvelna wrote:

Bonjour, Merci beaucoup pour tous ces modèles ! Petite question : je suis en taille 41/43 après le talon et les diminutions de chaque coté du pied. Il me reste 56m, il est indiqué qu'il reste 5 cm à tricoter pour obtenir les 22cm de taille de pied. Or, je n'ai que 6 cm du marqueur du talon au dernier rang de diminution de chaque côté du dessus du pied. Me serai-je trompée ? (Pour les diminution j'ai diminué tous les 2 rangs, tous les rangs impairs sur 22 rangs). Merci.

23.11.2020 - 22:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louvelna, lorsque vous avez terminé les diminutions des 2 côtés et que vous avez donc les 56 m pour le pied, continuez en jersey jusqu'à ce que la chaussette mesure 22 cm depuis le marqueur du talon, il reste alors encore 5 cm à tricoter pour la pointe (= 22+5 = 27 cm de longueur totale). Bon tricot!

24.11.2020 kl. 09:36

country flag Bourguignon wrote:

On doit commencer le talon à 21 cm de hauteur totale ou après les côtes? merci.

08.12.2018 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bourguignon, on commence le talon à 21 cm de hauteur totale depuis le rang de montage - en taille 38/40. Bon tricot!

10.12.2018 kl. 11:02

country flag Kathi wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe die Schritte für die Sockenspitze nicht. Was bedeutet „in jeder 2. Runde 4 mal wiederholen und danach in jeder Runde 6 mal wiederholen“? Wenn ich vor und nach der Markierung Maschen abnehme, kann ich doch keine 6 Wiederholungen pro Rumde gleichmäßig verteilen. LG, Katharina

04.07.2018 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathi, für die Spitze nehmen Sie 4 M insgesamt ab: in jeder Reihe 4-7-6 Mal und in jeder Reihe 6-4-6 Mal = es bleiben 12 M in allen Größen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.07.2018 kl. 07:38

country flag Moinard wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens de faire l'échantillon. Avec 26 mailles et 34 rangs tricotés aiguiiles, 2,5 j'obtiens un échantillon de 9 cm sur 8 cm . Dois-je donc prendre des aiguilles n°3 ? Merci de m'éclairer !

26.03.2018 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Moinard, tout à fait, chacune a sa propre façon de tricoter plus ou moins serré/lâche, essayez à nouveau avec des aiguilles 3 voire 3,5 jusqu'à ce que vous ayez 26 m pour 10 cm. Dans ce modèle, la hauteur n'est pas importante car elle est indiquée en cm et pas en nombre de rangs, vous pourrez ainsi l'ajuster plus facilement. Bon tricot!

26.03.2018 kl. 13:14

country flag Noëlle wrote:

Bonjour Pour ce modèle, il est indiqué qu il faut des aiguilles double pointe. Mais il en faut bien 5 dont 4 qui servent à répartir les mailles n'est ce pas ? Merci de votre réponse.

22.03.2018 - 18:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonsoir Noëlle! Les mailles sont réparties sur 4 aiguilles. Vous travaillez a l'aide de la cinquieme aiguille. Bon tricot!

22.03.2018 kl. 18:15

country flag Lene wrote:

Undskyld, men jeg sidder med et par nøgler Drops Delight og der står på bandarolen anbefales pinde nr 2,5 - på jeres hjemmeside anbefales pinde nr 3,5. Strikkefastheden er heller ikke ens på bandarolen og på hjemmesiden. Hvad skal jeg så regne med når jeg kigger opskrifter mv?

05.02.2017 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene. Banderolen er standard. Men du skal altid gaa efter strikkefastheden paa selve opskriften. En strikkefasthed kan variere efter mönster og form.

06.02.2017 kl. 12:41

Jessa Mae Casserly wrote:

Hi and thank you for the answer, I understand now! But how do I know which is the right side of the heel? Because it says to k2tog on the back loop before the 30 stitches and k2tog normally after ? Im tackling too much, very sorry for the trouble!

09.07.2015 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Casserly, you will k2 twisted to the last 2 sts before the 30 sts for upper foot (the 2 last sts picked up along heel before sts on upper foot), and K2 tog (= the first 2 sts you picked up along heel) after the 30 sts. You will work: heel sts, picked up sts and end with K2 twisted tog, marker, 30 sts for upper foot, K2 tog, picked up sts, heel sts. Happy knitting!

09.07.2015 kl. 14:42

Jessa Mae Casserly wrote:

Hi I am having trouble with the upper foot part, it says that I have to decrease using k2tog at the first after the 30 sts on upper foot and k2tog back loop on the last 2 sts- what does this mean? What's the before part where is that?

07.07.2015 - 02:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Casserly, you dec 2 sts before + 2 sts after the 30 st on upper foot, ie the sts that you put aside as you worked heel. You will dec the number of sts you picked up each side of heel, but the number of sts you put on the st holder will remain the same. Happy knitting!

07.07.2015 kl. 10:14

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