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Seaside Blues by DROPS Design

DROPS blanket crochet in squares in ”Karisma”.

Keywords: blanket, granny square, patchwork, square

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DROPS 120-3
DROPS design: Pattern no U-592

Measurements:
Width: approx 90 cm
Length: approx 110 cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350 g colour no 01, off-white
150 g colour no 30, denim blue
150 g colour no 37, dark grey/blue
150 g colour no 43, ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm – or size needed to get 15 tr = width 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
COLOUR COMBINATION:
Square 1:
Round 1-2: denim blue
Round 3: off-white
Round 4-5: ice blue
Round 6-8: off-white

Square 2:
Round 1-2: dark grey/blue
Round 3: ice blue
Round 4-5: denim blue
Round 6-8: off-white

Square 3:
Round 1-2: denim blue
Round 3: off-white
Round 4-5: dark grey/blue
Round 6-8: off-white

Square 4:
Round 1-2: ice blue
Round 3: denim blue
Round 4-5: dark grey/blue
Round 6-8: off-white

Square 5:
Round 1-2: dark grey/blue
Round 3: denim blue
Round 4-5: ice blue
Round 6-8: off-white

Square 6:
Round 1-2: ice blue
Round 3: dark grey/blue
Round 4-5: denim blue
Round 6-8: off-white

ASSEMBLY OF SQUARES:
See diagram M.1 and M.2.
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BLANKET:
Crochet a total of 30 squares, 5 of each colour combination – see above.

SQUARE:
Crochet 4 ch with 1 thread Karisma and crochet hook size 5 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.

ROUND 1: 4 ch (= 1 tr+1 ch), * 1 tr in ring, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), 1 tr in the same ch, but wait with last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), 1 YO round hook, pull hook through all 3 sts = 1 st on hook (= 1 tr-group). Crochet * 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), 1 tr in the same ch, but wait with last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), 1 YO round hook, pull hook through all 3 sts = 1 st on hook (= 1 tr-group), 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), 1 tr in the same tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), 1 YO round hook, pull hook through all 3 sts = 1 st on hook (= 1 tr-group) *. Repeat from *-* around, and finish with 1 tr-group in last ch, 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 tr-groups. Cut the thread.

ROUND 3: Change colour. Crochet 4 ch, * 3 tr in next ch, 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 2 tr in last ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut the thread.

ROUND 4: Change colour. Crochet 1 ch, 1 dc in first ch, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch, *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (= 4 ch-loops with 7 ch = corners).

ROUND 5: 1 ch, 1 dc in first dc from last round, * skip the 3-ch-loop, in the next 3-ch-loop crochet as follows: 4 tr, 1 ch, 4 tr. Skip the next 3-ch-loop, 1 dc in next dc, skip the next 3-ch-loop, in 7-ch-loop crochet as follows: 6
tr, 2 ch, 6 tr. Skip the next 3 ch-loop, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* ending with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut the thread.

ROUND 6: Change colour. * 1 tr(= replace first time with 3 ch) in first dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in ch in the 8-tr-group, 3 ch, 1 tr in next dc, 5 ch, in corner (2 ch-loop) crochet as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, 5 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

ROUND 7: Crochet, * 4 tr(= replace first tr with 3 ch first time) in 3-ch-loop, 4 tr in next 3-ch-loop, 5 tr in 5-ch-loop, in corner (3-ch-loop) crochet as follows: 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr, 5 tr in next 5-ch-loop *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

ROUND 8: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 16 tr, * in corner (2-ch-loop) crochet as follows: 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc. Then 1 dc in the next 24 tr * repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 8 dc, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round. Cut the thread. Fasten all thread ends.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the squares as shown in M.1 with 5 squares horizontally and 6 squares vertically – see above! Crochet squares tog with off-white and crochet hook size 5 mm as shown in M.2 – crochet them tog vertically first and then horizontally.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.02.2010
ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), 1 tr in the same ch, but wait with last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), 1 YO round hook, pull hook through all 3 sts = 1 st on hook (= 1 tr-group),....

ROUND 5: 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, * skip the 3-ch-loop, in the next 3-ch-loop crochet as follows: 4 tr, 1 ch, 4 tr. Skip the next 3-ch-loop, 1 dc in next dc, skip the next 3-ch-loop, in 7-ch-loop crochet as follows: 6
tr, 2 ch, 6 tr. Skip the next 3 ch-loop, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-*,
and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut the thread.
Updated online: 21.10.2014
No errors, but the explanation in SQUARE: (1.-7. round), is better.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = last round of squares
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (141)

country flag Yolanda wrote:

Hola, No encuentro en ninguna tienda el color 43 Azul glacial, ¿hay alguno similar con el que poder sustituirlo? al no ver foto no sé cómo es el tono. Gracias, Yolanda

28.08.2023 - 11:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Yolanda, el azul glaciar es el azul más claro en las fotos del patrón. El más similar sería el color 68 - azul cielo claro.

03.09.2023 - 23:52

country flag Audrey wrote:

In the video for Seaside Blues by DROPS Design can you tell me what size yarn and a crochet hook? It looks much bigger than mine with a 5mm hook

17.08.2022 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Audrey, in the video we work with a thicker yarn, DROPS Snow - so you can easily see how we work and how stitches looks like. Sample in the video is therefore really bigger and more illustrative. Happy crocheting!

18.08.2022 - 05:48

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi is it possible for me to get this pattern in PDF format ? Many thanks

26.02.2022 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, you can save them as PDF by clicking on print and then, when selecting a printer, choosing "Save as PDF". Happy crocheting!

27.02.2022 - 16:59

country flag Virginie SELME wrote:

Bonjour, Le coloris N°43 a t'il été remplacé ? Je ne vois pas par quelle autre couleur dans la gamme Karisma le remplacer pour obtenir un aussi joli modèle que celui présenté en photo !

16.01.2022 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Selme, effectivement, le coloris 43 n'est plus disponible, contactez votre magasin DROPS, il pourra vous conseiller la meilleure couleur adaptée. Bon crochet!

17.01.2022 - 09:20

country flag Sara Marie wrote:

Hola, cuanto material necesito para hacer una colcha para cama individual de 90cms.\r\nMuchas gracias

14.12.2021 - 13:32

country flag Pia Norrbygård wrote:

Hej jag börja virka från mönster men fick det inte att stämma, så beslöt mig för att kolla på videon efter. det står *1 st, 1 fm om lm i 8-stgruppen" men blev så "stramt" så när man kollar videon visa att man ska virka 3 lm (första stolpen ) + 3 lm och SEN fast maska. vilken är rätt? känns som videon är rätt men tänkte kolla med er:) MVH Pia """VARV 6: Byt färg. *1 st(=ersätts av 3 lm första gång)i 1.fm, 3 lm, 1 fm om lm i 8-stgruppen, """

12.09.2021 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Det är tänkt att det ska vara som det är beskrivet i mönstret, men om du tycker att det blir lite stramt så kan du välja att göra som i videon istället. Mvh DROPS Design

24.09.2021 - 10:48

country flag Sheridan Doyle wrote:

Hi, I love this seaside blues blanket and want to make it in the exact colours. Has the Drops Karisma Ice Blue (no.43) been discontinued? I can’t find it anywhere, not even on garnstudio. If so, what would be a suitable replacement colour? Thanks

13.04.2021 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sheridan, the no.43 ice blue can be substituted by either the no 68 light sky blue (a lighter sghade) or the light denim blue (a bit darker, more sky-blue-ish shade). Happy Crafting!

13.04.2021 - 21:50

country flag Katrine wrote:

Kan noen forklare 2. omgang. 1 st i den første av de 3 lm

26.01.2021 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Katrine, Du hekler 1 stav i den tredje luftmaske fra heklenålen (hopp over 2 luft masker). God fornøyelse!

27.01.2021 - 07:42

country flag Kathy wrote:

Hi, Is there a video of this pattern being made up? I am having a great deal of difficulty understanding the written pattern!

05.01.2021 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathy, we do not have any video for this square yet, follow the pattern stitch after stitch, round after round to get how to work it. Happy crocheting!

05.01.2021 - 11:25

country flag A Eriksen wrote:

Omg 2: 3 lm, 1 st i den første af af de 3 lm osv frem til *. Jeg synes den første st gruppe bliver meget anderledes end de andre st grupper. Er der en fejl i opskriften så det kun er en st der laves i den første lm og ikke en hel st gruppe, da de 3 lm = 1 st?

31.10.2020 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Den første stangmaske gruppe ser lidt anderledes i og med først stangmaske består af 3 luftmasker, men det kommer du ikke til at se i de færdige ruder. God fornøjelse!

05.11.2020 - 13:19

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