DROPS / 119 / 32

Cotton Patch by DROPS Design

DROPS sock knitted from side to side in berry pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size 35-43.

DROPS design: Pattern no ME-018

Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg length: 12 - 12 - 14 cm
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-100-150 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in berry pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K al rows.
KNITTING TIP: When turning mid piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row (to avoid a hole in transition). PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. First row = RS.
ASSEMBLY TIP: Insert a thread in the outer loop of st towards the toe and let this thread follow the piece, to be used for tightening toes tog.
--------------------------------------------------------

SOCK: Worked back and forth on needle from mid under foot, over upper foot and back to mid under foot.

When dec and inc for heel also work shortened rows on toe sts as follows: On every other row towards the toe (i.e. every 4th row) turn mid piece when 8-10-12 sts remain and work return row - see KNITTING TIP! The toe is at the beg of row as seen from RS.

REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Cast on 68-74-84 sts on needle size 4 mm with Merino. Continue as follows from RS: 52-58-64 garter sts, 16-16-20 sts in M.1. Insert a marker after st no 42-48-54 from RS. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on row 5 dec for heel as follows (remember shortened rows on toe sts): K2 tog each side of marker on every other row a total of 10 times = 48-54-64 sts. Continue as follows from RS (do not work shortened rows on toe sts): 8-10-12 garter sts (= toe), M.1 on remaining sts. Continue like this until piece measures 13-15-17 cm from the last dec – NOTE: measured mid over dec.

Now work 32-38-44 garter sts and 16-16-20 sts of M.1. Inc for heel as follows (work shortened rows on toe sts): Insert a marker after st no 32-38-44 from RS. Inc 1 st each side of marker on every other row a total of 10 times - inc by making 1 YO, on next row K YO into back of loop and work inc sts in garter st = 68-74-84 sts. Work 4 rows on all sts with 52-58-64 garter sts and 16-16-20 sts of M.1. Slip all sts on a stitch holder. Make 1 more sock.

ASSEMBLY: Graft tog sts from stitch holder and cast on row. The seam will sit mid under foot and up along the back of leg. Tighten toes tog – see ASSEMBLY TIP – and fasten thread.

Diagram

= K from WS
= Work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: P1, 1 YO, P1
= P 3 sts, pass the first st over the 2 last sts, pass second st over the last st = 1 st left

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

Diana 16.10.2019 - 18:07:

I have done a lot of patterns but l just can't figure it out. Is there a way you can explain the first paragraph a different or other way? I love the slippers and would like to make them. Thank you for any help.

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 09:51:

Dear Diana, work 4 rows with: 52-58-64 sts garter st, 16-16-20 sts as in M.1, on 5th row (= from RS), start decrease on each side of the marker for the heel. At the same time, you will work short rows for toe: every 4th row (= every other row from WS), work until 8-10-12 sts in garter st remain and turn (= short rows). Hope it helps, happy knitting!

Odeth 21.09.2019 - 04:39:

El patrón no lo veo claro en la parte del talón gracias

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 19:45:

Hola Odeth. El talón lo formamos trabajando disminuciones (2 puntos juntos de derecho a cada lado del marcapuntos) un total de 10 veces.

Kamila 14.09.2019 - 19:21:

Hello, what kind of cast on was used in this pattern?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 09:24:

Dear Kamila, you can use here the continental method or a provisional cast on for the kitchener stitches. Happy knitting!

Lyly 08.04.2019 - 23:30:

Je ne comprends pas les explications concernant les rangs raccourcis de la pointe : au 6e rg, sur l\\\'env du travail, on ne tricote pas les 8 dernières mailles pour la taille S ? Combien de fois doit-on laisser ces mailles en attente ? Je ne comprends absolument pas comment faire la pointe du chausson.les rgs raccourcis se font sur l\\\'endroit ou l\\\'envers du travail ?

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 09:24:

Bonjour Lyly, les rangs raccourcis pour la pointe vont se tricoter en commençant sur l'envers: tricotez le rang jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 8 m (= pointe), tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur l'endroit (diminuez sur l'endroit si besoin), tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur toutes les mailles, tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur toutes les mailles - n'oubliez pas les diminutions si besoin - continuez ainsi, les 8 m de la fin du rang ne sont simplement plus travaillées = rangs raccourcis; cf vidéo. Bon tricot!

Emmah 26.12.2018 - 17:35:

Min socka har väldigt dålig passform (stor) från hälen och hela vägen upp på skaftet. Resten av socken sitter perfekt. Vad har jag gjort för fel?

DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 14:44:

hei Emmah. Denne modellen er en del løsere rundt ankelen enn tradisjonelle sokker, du kan se det på bildet også om du ser etter. Så den skal være sånn. Om du gjerne vil ha den strammere kan du feks prøve å feste et bånd som du kan knyte rundt ankelen? God fornøyelse.

Erica 13.12.2018 - 13:38:

I\'m stuck again 😞 I\'m doing the middle size. Continue until piece measures 15cm. I\'ve done that but no idea how to do the next paragraph: work 38 garter st and 16 sts of m1 and increase for heel. I don\'t know which sue is the heel! I have 44sts of pattern and a separate 10sts of garter stitch for the toe...

DROPS Design 13.12.2018 kl. 14:40:

Dear Erica, when piece measures 15 cm from the last dec, work now: the first 38 sts seen from RS in garter st and the last 16 sts in M.1, now increase for heel on each side of the marker placed in the 38th st from RS. Happy knitting!

Erica 07.12.2018 - 11:39:

Im confused about how to p into same stitch. Pattern = p1, yo, p1 all in same stitch but my sts are decreasing. I did p1, yo and then I slipped the yo onto other needle and purled that. Where am I going wrong?!

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 11:59:

Dear Erica, y ou have to work the same stitch a total of 3 times, purl next stitch on the left needle without dropping this off the needle, make a YO on right needle, then purl the same stitch on left needle one more time and drop it from left needle = you should have now 3 sts on the right needle. The next 3 sts will be purled together = the number of stitches keep constant. Happy knitting!

Dufour Arlette 27.09.2018 - 08:22:

Je reviens vers vous, je vous ai posée une question hier je tenais a vous dire qu'après avoir fait et refait j'ai trouvée ,je vous remercie Mme Dufour

Dufour 26.09.2018 - 17:15:

Je fait le modèle 119-32 je ne comprend pas j'ai fait les dim. pour le talon cela ne vas pas je doit pas le faire dans le bon sens ,après le montage je fait 58m +16 pour le dessin=74 je place un marqueur sais peut êtres la que je me trompe je compte 48men partant de la pointe après je fait les dim.2m ens à l'end des 2 cotés du marqueur ce qui fait 4mcela 10foisla je comprend plus je l'ai fait mais le talon trop court pouvais vous m'aidée Mme dufour

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 08:20:

Bonjour Mme Dufour, on tricote sur l'endroit: 58 m point mousse et 16 m de M.1, le marqueur se trouve après la 48ème m sur l'endroit (débuts des rangs sur l'endroit côté tige/haut de la chaussette / fins des rangs sur l'endroit = côté pointe). Diminuez ensuite ainsi: 47 m endroit, 2 m ens à l'end, marqueur, 2 m ens à l'end, 9 m end, 16 m de M.1. Continuez à diminuer ainsi de chaque côté du marqueur 10 fois au total = 54 m. Bon tricot!

Véronique 07.07.2018 - 21:02:

Bonjour Existe t il une vidéo d aide pour réaliser cette paire de chaussettes ? Merci

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 08:22:

Bonjour Véronique, il n'existe pas de vidéo montrant comment réaliser les chaussettes du début à la fin, toutefois, vous trouverez différentes vidéos montrant les techniques utilisées dans ce modèle. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 119-32

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.