DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cotton Patch

DROPS sock knitted from side to side in berry pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size 35-43.

DROPS 119-32
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-018

Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg length: 12 - 12 - 14 cm
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-100-150 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in berry pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K al rows.
KNITTING TIP: When turning mid piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row (to avoid a hole in transition). PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. First row = RS.
ASSEMBLY TIP: Insert a thread in the outer loop of st towards the toe and let this thread follow the piece, to be used for tightening toes tog.
--------------------------------------------------------

SOCK: Worked back and forth on needle from mid under foot, over upper foot and back to mid under foot.

When dec and inc for heel also work shortened rows on toe sts as follows: On every other row towards the toe (i.e. every 4th row) turn mid piece when 8-10-12 sts remain and work return row - see KNITTING TIP! The toe is at the beg of row as seen from RS.

REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Cast on 68-74-84 sts on needle size 4 mm with Merino. Continue as follows from RS: 52-58-64 garter sts, 16-16-20 sts in M.1. Insert a marker after st no 42-48-54 from RS. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on row 5 dec for heel as follows (remember shortened rows on toe sts): K2 tog each side of marker on every other row a total of 10 times = 48-54-64 sts. Continue as follows from RS (do not work shortened rows on toe sts): 8-10-12 garter sts (= toe), M.1 on remaining sts. Continue like this until piece measures 13-15-17 cm from the last dec – NOTE: measured mid over dec.

Now work 32-38-44 garter sts and 16-16-20 sts of M.1. Inc for heel as follows (work shortened rows on toe sts): Insert a marker after st no 32-38-44 from RS. Inc 1 st each side of marker on every other row a total of 10 times - inc by making 1 YO, on next row K YO into back of loop and work inc sts in garter st = 68-74-84 sts. Work 4 rows on all sts with 52-58-64 garter sts and 16-16-20 sts of M.1. Slip all sts on a stitch holder. Make 1 more sock.

ASSEMBLY: Graft tog sts from stitch holder and cast on row. The seam will sit mid under foot and up along the back of leg. Tighten toes tog – see ASSEMBLY TIP – and fasten thread.

Diagram

symbols = K from WS
symbols = Work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: P1, 1 YO, P1
symbols = P 3 sts, pass the first st over the 2 last sts, pass second st over the last st = 1 st left
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 119-32

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Dufour wrote:

Je fait le modèle 119-32 je ne comprend pas j'ai fait les dim. pour le talon cela ne vas pas je doit pas le faire dans le bon sens ,après le montage je fait 58m +16 pour le dessin=74 je place un marqueur sais peut êtres la que je me trompe je compte 48men partant de la pointe après je fait les dim.2m ens à l'end des 2 cotés du marqueur ce qui fait 4mcela 10foisla je comprend plus je l'ai fait mais le talon trop court pouvais vous m'aidée Mme dufour

26.09.2018 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dufour, on tricote sur l'endroit: 58 m point mousse et 16 m de M.1, le marqueur se trouve après la 48ème m sur l'endroit (débuts des rangs sur l'endroit côté tige/haut de la chaussette / fins des rangs sur l'endroit = côté pointe). Diminuez ensuite ainsi: 47 m endroit, 2 m ens à l'end, marqueur, 2 m ens à l'end, 9 m end, 16 m de M.1. Continuez à diminuer ainsi de chaque côté du marqueur 10 fois au total = 54 m. Bon tricot!

27.09.2018 - 08:20

country flag Véronique wrote:

Bonjour Existe t il une vidéo d aide pour réaliser cette paire de chaussettes ? Merci

07.07.2018 - 21:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, il n'existe pas de vidéo montrant comment réaliser les chaussettes du début à la fin, toutefois, vous trouverez différentes vidéos montrant les techniques utilisées dans ce modèle. Bon tricot!

09.07.2018 - 08:22

country flag Iben wrote:

Tak for svaret. Hvorfor skriver i så ikke her på hjemmesiden at man skal være opmærksom på dette? Jeg købe et nøgle Lima for 3 uger siden, og der står stadig 92m på bandarolen. Jeg er ellers rigtigt rigtig glad for denne hjemmeside.

02.02.2018 - 07:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Iben, det er så lang tid siden og der skal väre nok garn til opskriften. God fornöjelse!

12.02.2018 - 15:57

country flag Iben wrote:

Jeg kan se at mit spørgsmål fra 12.01.2018 er vist som en kommentar. Så jeg spørger igen :o) Hvorfor står der på hjemmesiden at Lima er 100m pr 50gr, når der på bandarolen står 92m?

23.01.2018 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Iben, Løbelængden på DROPS Lima blev for nogle år siden justeret til 100 m på 50 gr, da det passede bedre i tykkelse til hvad vi har i garngruppe B. God fornøjelse!

30.01.2018 - 11:51

country flag Iben wrote:

Jeg har valgt at bruge Lima til denne opskrift. Hjemmesiden siger 105m for MEF og 100m for Lima. Hvordan kan det så være at der står 92m på bandarolen? Dette opdager jeg fordi jeg lige præcis mangler 4p på første sutsko da nøglet slipper op. Øv øv øv....

12.01.2018 - 08:06

Nádia Machado wrote:

Gostaria de saber porque não tem o vídeo deste modelo na página de vocês? Queria fazer este modelo mas queria ver o vídeo. Sou de São Leopoldo, Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil

03.05.2016 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Verifique nas explicações o separador vídeos em que encontrará muitos vídeos explicando as várias técnicas utilizadas. Bom tricô

20.05.2016 - 15:44

Masome wrote:

Thank you so much for answering my question very fast.💗💗💗💗💗💗💗

09.02.2016 - 13:44

Masome wrote:

Hello.at first thank you for answering my question, then I have a question.when we k2 tog for heel for 10 times,just 10 sts decrease totaly.but the remaining sts is 20 less than the first sts that we cast on.how is it possible?

08.02.2016 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Masome, you work K2 tog on each side of marker a total of 10 times, ie you will dec a total of 20 sts. Happy knitting!

09.02.2016 - 10:03

Masome wrote:

And one more question: after k2 tog for heel, where should i put the marker? After k2 or before it?

06.02.2016 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Masome, you can add a marker after last dec for heel so that you can measure easily the 13-15-17 cm. Happy knitting!

08.02.2016 - 11:54

Masome wrote:

Hello.I don't understand the toes section.what do you mean by leaving them unworked?does it mean slip this sts to other needle?

06.02.2016 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Masome, to shape the toe you will work short rows, ie work 2 rows over all sts, then 2 rows leaving the 8-10-12 sts (see size) towards toe unworked. See video to short rows below. Happy knitting!

08.02.2016 - 11:47