DROPS / 119 / 14

Phoebe by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl with berry pattern in ”Vienna” or "Melody".

Tags: blackberry, shawls,

DROPS design: Pattern no O-290

Length mid back: approx 90 cm
Width at top: approx 230 cm

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 20, light grey

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 12mm - or size needed to get 9 sts x 9 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Vienna DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. First row = RS.

Worked from the bottom towards the top. Cast on 10 sts on needle size 12 mm with Vienna or Melody and continue as follows - see M.1:

Row 1 (= RS): * P4, pass the first of these 4 sts over the last 3, pass the second over the last 2, pass the third over the last st (= 1 st), in next st work K1, 1 YO, K1 in front loop of st, K1 in back loop *, repeat from *-*.

Row 2: (= from WS): K all sts.

Row 3 (= RS): Pick up first st from 2 rows below (now start pattern BUT knit this picked up st tog with the first st on the left needle in the first pattern repeat): * K1, 1 YO, K1 in front loop of st, K1 in back loop, P4, pass the first of these 4 sts over the last 3, pass the second over the last 2, pass the third over the last st *, repeat from *-*, then cast on 5 new sts at the end of row.

Row 4: K all sts, then cast on 5 new sts at the end of row= 20 sts on needle.
Repeat these 4 rows until shawl measures 90 cm in the middle. Cast off.


= K from WS
= P4, pass the first of these 4 sts over the last 3, pass the second over the last 2, pass the third over the last st = 1 st
= in 1 st work K1, 1 YO, K1 in front loop of st and K1 in back loop = 4 sts
= cast on 1 new st at the end of row
= pick up first st from 2 rows below, K this st tog with first st on needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

Moutusi Ghose 18.01.2019 - 17:18:

Nice work

Nina 10.01.2019 - 09:23:

Kan jag anpassa det här mönstret till jumperstickor istället för rundsticka? Hur gör jag då?

DROPS Design 15.01.2019 kl. 14:01:

Hej, denna modell stickas fram och tillbaka på parstickor.

Rita 07.05.2018 - 10:49:

Vorrei lavorare questo scialle con 2 Capi di kid silk. Con che numero di ferro potrei lavorare. Grazie

DROPS Design 07.05.2018 kl. 17:12:

Buonasera Rita. Lo scialle deve risultare leggero e vaporoso. Può provare a lavorare con i ferri che le consentono di avere lo stesso campione indicato oppure con il numero di ferri con cui raggiunge il risultato (come definizione del punto) che la soddisfa. Buon lavoro!

Giulia Ciaramelli 17.07.2017 - 15:34:

Buongiorno, vorrei realizzare una stola elegante rettangolare 50x150 a punto mimosa, con DROPS KID SILK grigio perla unito a DROPS GLITTER argento. Vorrei sapere quanto filato mi occorre, che numero di ferri usare e quante maglie mettere per ottenere le misure indicate. Grazie molto dell'aiuto. Giulia

DROPS Design 17.07.2017 kl. 16:08:

Buongiorno Giulia, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia: in ogni caso il primo passo è fare un campione con Kid-Silk e Glitter con ferri 3,5 o 4 mm di almeno 10x10 cm con il punto che le interessa, e da quello può partire per fare tutti i calcoli necessari. Buon lavoro!

Carin Van Keulen 26.10.2016 - 14:51:

In the Dutch version of this pattern there is a mistake in the amount Dorps Melody that you need for this pattern. It should be 150 grams not 200 grams. The English pattern does give the correct amount of Drops Melody. Carin

DROPS Design 26.10.2016 kl. 15:16:

Dear Mrs Van Keulen, thanks for noticing, amount of yarn will be edited in Dutch pattern. Happy knitting!

Iris 13.05.2016 - 22:50:

Encore une question : le point d'astrakan = multiples de 4 + 2 m lisières. Au début, on a 10 m, c'est donc ok (4+4+2=10). Ensuite on augmente de 2 fois 5 m = 20 m. Là il y a un problème… car moins les 2 m lisières = 18m, indivisible par 4. Ne faudrait-il pas plutôt augmenter 4 m de chaque côté? On obtiendrait donc 16m + 2m lisières?

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Iris, on n'a pas de m lisière dans ce châle, à la fin du 3ème rang, montez 5 m, au 4ème rang, tricotez tout à l'end et montez 5 m (= 20 m). Au 5ème rang, tricotez comme au 1er rang en répétant 4 fois de *-* et terminez en tricotant 4 fois la dernière m - voir aussi diagramme. Bon tricot!

Iris 11.05.2016 - 18:38:

Je ne comprends pas l'explication du point d'astrakan (elle ne correspond pas à la vidéo). Sur la vidéo, on tricote 3(4 ici) m ensemble à l'envers. Dans les explications : 4 m env, passer la 1ère de ces 4 m par dessus les 3 dernières m, passer la 2ème par dessus les 2 dernières et passer la 3ème m par dessus la dernière m (= 1 m). Plutôt compliqué! Est-il possible de faire ce châle avec le point tel qu'il est montré dans la vidéo, mais avec 4 m au lieu de 3? Merci!

DROPS Design 12.05.2016 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Iris, le point d'astrakan peut se tricoter de différentes façons, vous pouvez tout à fait choisir la méthode qui vous convient le mieux en l'adaptant au modèle. Bon tricot!

Marie 17.11.2015 - 21:43:

Au troisième rang, je me retrouve avec trop de mailles au final. Je pense que c'est à cause de la maille relevée, je ne comprend pas cette étape. Je dois reprendre la première maille du premier rang (donc celle qui a été prise par les trois mailles que l'on a fait passer par-dessus) et tricoter cette maille avec celle de derrière, en envers ? Donc elles n'en font qu'une. Mais ainsi je me retrouve avec une maille sur l'aiguille de droite et neuf sur celle de gauche ? Merci d'avance !

DROPS Design 18.11.2015 kl. 09:24:

Bonjour Marie, au 3ème rang du châle, vous devez avoir 10 m (= relevez 1 m 2 rangs plus bas et placez-la sur l'aig. gauche, puis en piquant dans les 2 premières m (comme pour les tric. ens) faites:1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 m end dans le brin arrière = 4 m dans 1 m puis tricotez 4 m env et passez les 3 premières m par-dessus la 4ème (= 1 m), augmentez dans la m suivante (= 4 m), tricotez 4 m env et passez les 3 premières par-dessus la 4ème (= 1 m) = 4+1+4+1=10 m, et montez 5 m à la fin du 3ème rang = 15 m. Bon tricot!

Mervat 17.12.2013 - 17:55:

And can i knit this pattern with needle no 5 or not?? do i have to make any change if yes??

DROPS Design 17.12.2013 kl. 18:03:

Dear Mrs Mervat, this shawl has been worked with a tension of 9 sts x 9 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm. If you work with smaller needles, it will be more "compact" and you may need more yarn than required here. Happy knitting!

Mervat 17.12.2013 - 17:46:

Row 3 is confusing me do we pick up the first sts on the first row and knit it tog with the first sts on the left needle and i have 1 sts missing i have only 3sts to purl?? 2- when we pick up these 5sts do we slip them without working in the next row or what??

DROPS Design 17.12.2013 kl. 18:02:

Dear Mrs Mervat, at the beg of row 3, you pick up 1 st 2 rows below (ie in row 1), then put it on left needle and in this st + the first st on needle work 3 sts: K1 into front loop, YO, K1 into back loop of st. At the end of row 3, cast on 5 new sts. Happy knitting!

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