DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
find alternatives
DROPS 119-14
DROPS design: Pattern no O-290

Length mid back: approx 90 cm
Width at top: approx 230 cm

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 20, light grey

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 12mm - or size needed to get 9 sts x 9 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. First row = RS.

Worked from the bottom towards the top. Cast on 10 sts on needle size 12 mm with Vienna or Melody and continue as follows - see M.1:

Row 1 (= RS): * P4, pass the first of these 4 sts over the last 3, pass the second over the last 2, pass the third over the last st (= 1 st), in next st work K1, 1 YO, K1 in front loop of st, K1 in back loop *, repeat from *-*.

Row 2: (= from WS): K all sts.

Row 3 (= RS): Pick up first st from 2 rows below (now start pattern BUT knit this picked up st tog with the first st on the left needle in the first pattern repeat): * K1, 1 YO, K1 in front loop of st, K1 in back loop, P4, pass the first of these 4 sts over the last 3, pass the second over the last 2, pass the third over the last st *, repeat from *-*, then cast on 5 new sts at the end of row.

Row 4: K all sts, then cast on 5 new sts at the end of row= 20 sts on needle.
Repeat these 4 rows until shawl measures 90 cm in the middle. Cast off.


symbols = K from WS
symbols = P4, pass the first of these 4 sts over the last 3, pass the second over the last 2, pass the third over the last st = 1 st
symbols = in 1 st work K1, 1 YO, K1 in front loop of st and K1 in back loop = 4 sts
symbols = cast on 1 new st at the end of row
symbols = pick up first st from 2 rows below, K this st tog with first st on needle
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Ginger wrote:

Hey, this pattern looks really great but I just cannot figure out the first row. I did watch ‘blackberry’ video multiple times, but still cannot relate it to this pattern. From ‘blackberry’ video I understand P3 tog means you just nit together 3st in one st. And here P4: does it mean you knit 3 st together, than 2st together and then 1st together. Then using 1st you knit K1, YO, K1, K1. But then you are left only with 4st to repeat the pattern in the same row? Really curious thx

09.04.2020 - 23:09

country flag Moutusi Ghose wrote:

Nice work

18.01.2019 - 17:18

country flag Nina wrote:

Kan jag anpassa det här mönstret till jumperstickor istället för rundsticka? Hur gör jag då?

10.01.2019 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, denna modell stickas fram och tillbaka på parstickor.

15.01.2019 - 14:01

country flag Rita wrote:

Vorrei lavorare questo scialle con 2 Capi di kid silk. Con che numero di ferro potrei lavorare. Grazie

07.05.2018 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rita. Lo scialle deve risultare leggero e vaporoso. Può provare a lavorare con i ferri che le consentono di avere lo stesso campione indicato oppure con il numero di ferri con cui raggiunge il risultato (come definizione del punto) che la soddisfa. Buon lavoro!

07.05.2018 - 17:12

country flag Giulia Ciaramelli wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei realizzare una stola elegante rettangolare 50x150 a punto mimosa, con DROPS KID SILK grigio perla unito a DROPS GLITTER argento. Vorrei sapere quanto filato mi occorre, che numero di ferri usare e quante maglie mettere per ottenere le misure indicate. Grazie molto dell'aiuto. Giulia

17.07.2017 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giulia, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia: in ogni caso il primo passo è fare un campione con Kid-Silk e Glitter con ferri 3,5 o 4 mm di almeno 10x10 cm con il punto che le interessa, e da quello può partire per fare tutti i calcoli necessari. Buon lavoro!

17.07.2017 - 16:08

country flag Carin Van Keulen wrote:

In the Dutch version of this pattern there is a mistake in the amount Dorps Melody that you need for this pattern. It should be 150 grams not 200 grams. The English pattern does give the correct amount of Drops Melody. Carin

26.10.2016 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Van Keulen, thanks for noticing, amount of yarn will be edited in Dutch pattern. Happy knitting!

26.10.2016 - 15:16

country flag Iris wrote:

Encore une question : le point d'astrakan = multiples de 4 + 2 m lisières. Au début, on a 10 m, c'est donc ok (4+4+2=10). Ensuite on augmente de 2 fois 5 m = 20 m. Là il y a un problème… car moins les 2 m lisières = 18m, indivisible par 4. Ne faudrait-il pas plutôt augmenter 4 m de chaque côté? On obtiendrait donc 16m + 2m lisières?

13.05.2016 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Iris, on n'a pas de m lisière dans ce châle, à la fin du 3ème rang, montez 5 m, au 4ème rang, tricotez tout à l'end et montez 5 m (= 20 m). Au 5ème rang, tricotez comme au 1er rang en répétant 4 fois de *-* et terminez en tricotant 4 fois la dernière m - voir aussi diagramme. Bon tricot!

17.05.2016 - 09:00

country flag Iris wrote:

Je ne comprends pas l'explication du point d'astrakan (elle ne correspond pas à la vidéo). Sur la vidéo, on tricote 3(4 ici) m ensemble à l'envers. Dans les explications : 4 m env, passer la 1ère de ces 4 m par dessus les 3 dernières m, passer la 2ème par dessus les 2 dernières et passer la 3ème m par dessus la dernière m (= 1 m). Plutôt compliqué! Est-il possible de faire ce châle avec le point tel qu'il est montré dans la vidéo, mais avec 4 m au lieu de 3? Merci!

11.05.2016 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Iris, le point d'astrakan peut se tricoter de différentes façons, vous pouvez tout à fait choisir la méthode qui vous convient le mieux en l'adaptant au modèle. Bon tricot!

12.05.2016 - 08:34

country flag Marie wrote:

Au troisième rang, je me retrouve avec trop de mailles au final. Je pense que c'est à cause de la maille relevée, je ne comprend pas cette étape. Je dois reprendre la première maille du premier rang (donc celle qui a été prise par les trois mailles que l'on a fait passer par-dessus) et tricoter cette maille avec celle de derrière, en envers ? Donc elles n'en font qu'une. Mais ainsi je me retrouve avec une maille sur l'aiguille de droite et neuf sur celle de gauche ? Merci d'avance !

17.11.2015 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, au 3ème rang du châle, vous devez avoir 10 m (= relevez 1 m 2 rangs plus bas et placez-la sur l'aig. gauche, puis en piquant dans les 2 premières m (comme pour les tric. ens) faites:1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 m end dans le brin arrière = 4 m dans 1 m puis tricotez 4 m env et passez les 3 premières m par-dessus la 4ème (= 1 m), augmentez dans la m suivante (= 4 m), tricotez 4 m env et passez les 3 premières par-dessus la 4ème (= 1 m) = 4+1+4+1=10 m, et montez 5 m à la fin du 3ème rang = 15 m. Bon tricot!

18.11.2015 - 09:24

Mervat wrote:

And can i knit this pattern with needle no 5 or not?? do i have to make any change if yes??

17.12.2013 - 17:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mervat, this shawl has been worked with a tension of 9 sts x 9 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm. If you work with smaller needles, it will be more "compact" and you may need more yarn than required here. Happy knitting!

17.12.2013 - 18:03