DROPS / 118 / 40

Casual Date by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with 3/4 sleeves in garter st in ”Ice”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no TT-040

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ICE from Garnstudio
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g colour no 04, beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 20 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 7 mm – for rib.
DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS no 535: 4 pcs for all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
Always change to a new ball of yarn at the side of piece.
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = cast off 3rd st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 22, 29, 36, 43 cm.
SIZE M: 23, 30, 37, 44 cm.
SIZE L: 21, 29, 37, 45 cm.
SIZE XL: 21, 29, 37, 45 cm.
SIZE XXL: 22, 30, 38, 46 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 23, 31, 39, 47 cm.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. See KNITTING TIP! Cast on 34-38-42-46-50-54 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Ice and work rib from RS as follows: P2/K2 until 2 sts remain, finish with 2 garter sts – see above! Continue in rib like this with 2 garter sts towards mid front. When rib measures 3 cm change to circular needle size 8 mm and continue in garter st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 6-7-9-10-11-12 sts evenly = 28-31-33-36-39-42 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm dec 1 st at the side and repeat the dec when piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 26-29-31-34-37-40 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast on new sts for sleeve towards the side at the end of every row from WS as follows: 1 st 1 time, 2 sts 4 times, then 23-22-21-19-18-16 sts 1 time = 58-60-61-62-64-65 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts. NOTE! Make sure to tighten st towards sleeve edge on every row. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) slip 10-11-11-11-12-12 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder (= collar). Insert a marker in piece to mark the shoulder. Work 4 rows on the remaining 48-49-50-51-52-53 sts. Slip all shoulder sts on a stitch holder

Like left front piece, but mirrored. NOTE! Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above! Make sure to finish on the same row (K from WS) as left front piece.

Slip the 48-49-50-51-52-53 sts from left front piece back on needle. K sts from RS on left front piece, then cast on 13-13-13-13-15-16 new sts for neck on back piece, K sts from RS on the 48-49-50-51-52-53 sts from right front piece = 109-111-113-115-119-122 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts. When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from marker cast off sleeve sts at the beg of row each side as follows: 23-22-21-19-18-16 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1 time = 45-49-53-59-65-72 sts. When piece measures 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc when piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm = 49-53-57-63-69-76 sts. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm, measured from marker on shoulder (adjust so that last row is worked from RS), work 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 9-13-17-19-21-22 sts evenly on needle = 58-66-74-82-90-98 sts. Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Work next row from RS as follows: rib K2/P2 until 2 sts remain, finish with K2. Continue in rib. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm (adjust to front piece) cast off with K over K and P over P.

Slip the 10-11-11-11-12-12 collar sts from left front piece back on circular needle size 8 mm and work shortened rows on collar with start from RS (so that the garter st rows follows on from before): * 1 row on all sts, 2 rows back and forth on 5-6-6-6-6-6 sts, 1 row on all sts *. Repeat from *-* until collar measures 8-8-8-8-9-9 cm, on the shorter side measured from marker. Cast off. Work right collar in the same way, but mirrored.

Sew under arm seams in outer loops of sts. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline on back piece. Sew on buttons.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 118-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (62)

Patrizia Grasso 11.12.2019 - 12:08:

Se volessi farlo con i ferri dritti, come devo modificare le spiegazioni? Non so lavorare con i ferri circolari.

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 11:19:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Le spiegazioni sono già per una lavorazione in ferri di andata e ritorno. Può quindi seguirle senza doverle modificare. I ferri circolari vengono suggeriti per rendere più agevoeo il lavoro quando il numero delle maglie è alto; in questo caso per il dietro. Buon lavoro!

Jeanette Dreyer 29.08.2019 - 14:38:

I would like to knit this pattern, will it be possible to translate to Afrikaans? I do not follow instructions so good in English. Lovely pattern, Thank you, Jeanette

DROPS Design 29.08.2019 kl. 15:59:

Dear Mrs Dreyer, we are unfortunately not able to translate this pattern into Afrikaans - you will find several videos as well as lessons that can help you to understand the English terms. Happy knitting!

Sara Wing 04.08.2019 - 11:22:

Hur vet jag var jag ska sätta markören för axeln?

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 09:28:

Hej Sara, du sätter markören samtidigt som du sätter maskorna mitt fram på en tråd. Lycka till :)

Melanie 31.10.2018 - 18:02:

Sind die Angaben in Diagramm Maschen, oder? Wieso sind dann bei der Größe M im Diagramm 48 M und in der Anleitung muss ich nur 38 M anschlagen. Irgendwas verstehe ich nicht richtig!! Danke

DROPS Design 01.11.2018 kl. 14:01:

Liebe Melanie, alle Angaben im Diagram sind in cm - hier lesen Sie mehr über Maßen und Grössen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Melanie 21.10.2018 - 20:27:

Ist diese Wolle nicht mehr im Sortiment? Was könnte man als Alternative verwenden? vielen Dank

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 09:49:

Liebe Melanie, DROPS Ice ist jetzt ausgelaufen - hier finden Sie Alternativen - oder unser Garnumrechner benutzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Andrea 20.11.2017 - 05:24:

Dobrý den, v popisu máte napsáno: KNOFLÍKOVÉ DÍRKY: Dírky vyplétáme v pravém předním lemu v těchto rozestupech: Velikost S: 22, 29, 36 a 43 cm. Nemá to být uvedeno v řadách než v cm? Když vypočtu 4 knoflíky x 22 cm, tak to je víc než 58 cm na délku, kterou svetr ve vel. S měří. Děkuji

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 18:23:

Milá Andreo, není třeba nic počítat - údaje v cm uvádí, v jaké přesně výšce od dolního okraje máme dírku vyplést (1. dírka tedy leží 22 cm nad dolním okrajem, každá další pak 7 cm nad předešlou). Hodně zdaru! Hana

Thuy Staats 27.05.2016 - 00:29:

Thank you for the previous explaination. I am at the colar. it said to work the 11 sts on the left front colar, the stithes are high up the colar. do I pick up any more stitches down the side of the front edge? The instructions on the short row is also confusing. thought I understood it but cant figure it out. can you help? thanks thuy

DROPS Design 27.05.2016 kl. 09:00:

Dear Mrs Staats, you will work the collar on the 11 sts put aside, and work short rows to make the collar be wider towards outside than towards inside (= seam), start from RS and work the 11 sts, *then starting from WS (left collar), work 2 rows over the first 6 sts only (= short rows), work then 2 rows over all sts* repeat these 4 rows for 8 cm measured from the shorter side (where you worked all sts). When both collar has been worked, sew sts tog then sew collar along neckline on back piece. Happy knitting!

Thuy Staats 12.05.2016 - 22:25:

I don't understand the instructions on the add on sts for the sleeves. (1st 1 time, 2 sts 4 times ect.) can you explain please. thanks

DROPS Design 13.05.2016 kl. 09:01:

Dear Mrs Staats, cast on at the end of next 2 rows 1 st (= + 1 st on each side), then cast on at the end of next 8 rows 2 sts (= + 8 new sts on each side) and finally cast on 23-22-21-19-18-16 sts (see size) at the end of next 2 rows. The video below shows how to cast on sts at the end of the row. Happy knitting!

Nina Stein 03.11.2015 - 00:55:

My question is regarding the collar. Once you create both halves, if you sew the two halves together as the instructions indicate, what will happen to the 13-16 extra stitches for the neck? It seems like they have not been accounted for in the pattern. Also the pattern says to sew the collar to the back, but each side of the collar is already attached to the front sides, so I don't see where there will be any color to attach to the back neck.

DROPS Design 03.11.2015 kl. 09:49:

Dear Mrs Stein, when you have sewn both collar tog (both halves), you then sew the collar along neckline on back piece - see also video below (without short rows but same technique). Happy knitting!

Hummel 27.12.2014 - 22:51:

Comment savoir la tension et l'epaisseur du fil propose pour un modele? Quelle est la signification des nombres inscrits en haut sous le titre "modèle " exemple:118 40 by drops design.?

DROPS Design 30.12.2014 kl. 13:41:

Bonjour Mme Hummel, pour tout savoir sur le fil utilisé dans le modèle, cliquez sur le lien "voir les offres et le nuancier pour "DROPS Ice" (dans ce modèle) - la tension utilisée se trouve juste au-dessus, sois 11 m x 20 rangs au point mousse = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

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