DROPS / 118 / 38

Pristina by DROPS Design

Short DROPS waistcoat in ”Safran” with lace pattern along front bands. Size XS to XXL.

  • Pristina / DROPS 118-38 - Short DROPS waistcoat in ”Safran” with lace pattern along front bands.  Size XS to XXL.
  • Pristina / DROPS 118-38 - Short DROPS waistcoat in ”Safran” with lace pattern along front bands.  Size XS to XXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no E-142

Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-250-250 g colour no 05, light blue purple

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – for garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 - pattern in diagram is seen from RS and the first row in all diagrams = RS. To make M.1 and M.2 fall nicely you need to work more rows on these sts than the rest of front piece, do this as shown in diagram.
INCREASING TIP:
Make all inc from RS. Inc inside all sts in M.1/M.2 + 1 stocking st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
DECREASING TIP-1 (applies to neck):
Make all dec from RS inside M.1/M.2.
Dec as follows AFTER M.1: slip 1 st as if to K, K1 and psso.
Dec as follows BEFORE M.2: K2 tog.
DECREASING TIP-2 (applies to armhole):
Make all dec from RS inside 8 sts (i.e. 3 garter sts + M.3).
Dec as follows AFTER 8 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1 and psso.
Dec as follows BEFORE 8 sts: K2 tog.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 78-88-98-108-120-132 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm. Work 6 rows GARTER ST – see above! Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st (first row = RS). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 4th row a total of 10 times = 98-108-118-128-140-152 sts. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm continue as follows (from RS): 7-9-11-13-15-17 garter sts, M.3 (= 5 sts), stocking st until 12-14-16-18-20-22 sts remain, M.3 (= 5 sts) and 7-9-11-13-15-17 garter sts. Continue like this until there are 4 rows garter st each side. Now cast off 4-6-8-10-12-14 sts each side for armhole (i.e. at the beg of the next 2 rows) = 90-96-102-108-116-124 sts. Continue in stocking st with 3 garter sts + M.3 each side, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st each side to shape the armhole – SEE DECREASING TIP-2, and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 3-5-7-8-11-13 times = 84-86-88-92-94-98 sts. Continue with 3 garter sts and M.3 each side until finished measurements. When piece measures 33-35-37-39-41-43 cm cast off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st at the beg of every row from neck 3 times = 27-28-28-30-30-32 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 30-35-40-45-51-57 sts on needle size 2.5 mm (includes 1 edge st at the side). Work 6 rows garter st and change to needle size 3 mm.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue as follows (first row = RS): M.1 (= 12 sts), and stocking st on remaining sts on row, AT THE SAME TIME on this row inc 1 st towards mid front – SEE INCREASING TIP, and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 10 times and then on every 4th row a total of 5 times.
INC AT SIDE: When piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm inc at the side as described for back piece (i.e. 1 st 10 times). When all inc are complete there are 43-48-53-58-64-70 stocking sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) + M.1 (varies from 12 to 14 sts) on needle.
NECKLINE: When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm dec 1 st towards mid front for neck – SEE DECREASING TIP-1, and repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times.
ARMHOLE: When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm continue as follows (first row = RS). Work row until 12-14-16-18-20-22 sts remain, work M.3 (= 5 sts) and 7-9-11-13-15-17 garter sts.
Continue like this until there are 4 rows garter st at the side on the first 7-9-11-13-15-17 sts - AT THE SAME TIME on last garter st row cast off the first 4-6-8-10-12-14 sts for armhole - i.e. cast off from WS. Continue with 3 garter sts + M.3 towards armhole, AT THE SAME TIME dec to shape the armhole as described for back piece.
When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 27-28-28-30-30-32 sts + M.1 left on needle. When piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm cast off the 27-28-28-30-30-32 sts on shoulder (cast off from WS) and continue in M.1 on the remaining sts for collar until collar measures approx 7-7.5 cm on the shorter side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work like right front piece, but mirrored, i.e. work first row after the garter st as follows: stocking st until 12 sts remain, work these in M.2.
NOTE: Cast off the 4-6-8-10-12-14 sts for armhole from RS – i.e. on first row AFTER the 4 rows garter st. Also cast off shoulder sts from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew collar tog, edge to edge, mid back and sew collar to neckline on back piece by placing garter sts on collar on neckline and sew with small, neat sts.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = From RS: 1 double-YO, i.e. 2 YO between 2 sts.
symbols = From WS: 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = From WS: K the first YO and K into back of loop the second YO from previous row
symbols = Cast off 2 sts at beg of row - in M.1 (= right front piece) cast off from RS, and in M.2 (= left front piece) cast off from WS
symbols = From RS: K2 tog into back of loop
symbols = From RS: Slip 1 st as if to K, K2, psso the K2
symbols = From WS: K first YO from previous row and slip the other off needle
symbols = work remaining sts on row
symbols = work remaining sts on row
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 118-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Marie 01.07.2018 - 10:51:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment on réalise les augmentations du devant droit. Avant ou après M1 ? Merci d'avance. Cordialement, Marie

user icon DROPS Design 02.07.2018 kl. 09:53:

Bonjour Marie, on a 2 types d'augmentations pour les devants, une d'elle se fait juste après M.1 (voir AUGMENTATIONS) soit en début de rang sur l'endroit pour le devant droit (pour le devant gauche, on augmentera avant M.2, en fin de rang sur l'endroit), et on augmente en plus sur le côté = en fin de rang sur l'endroit (en début de rang sur l'endroit pour le devant gauche). Bon tricot!

country flag HERMAN Viviane 09.03.2016 - 10:39:

Bonjour, je tricote le modèle drops 118-38, petit gilet court. Je suis au 4ème rang du dos et donc je commence un rang à l'envers, or d'après les explications du M3 on doit être sur l'endroit et je me trouve sur l'envers, pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment je fais mon rang avec une diminution ?? merci beaucoup

user icon DROPS Design 09.03.2016 kl. 10:51:

Bonjour Mme Herman, on commence M.3 sur l'endroit, donc 1er rang = sur l'endroit, au 4ème rang, vous serez sur l'envers, c'est juste. Répétez M.3 jusqu'à ce que vous ayez 4 rangs point mousse de chaque côté soit 2 côtes mousse, et commencez à rabattre pour les emmanchures au rang suivant sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

country flag Jean Shor 19.03.2014 - 21:34:

I have completed the back of the Short Drops waistcoat but am having difficulty interpreting the chart for the front. Are any of the videos applicable. Thank you for your assistance.

user icon DROPS Design 23.03.2014 kl. 16:55:

Dear Mrs Shor, you'll find below the video showing how to work the chart for front pieces. Happy knitting!

country flag VERONIQUE 27.01.2014 - 11:10:

Merci pour votre réponse. Je n'avais pas compris que les rangs étaient des rangs raccourcis,non précisé sur les explications. Je vais réessayer. Cordialement

country flag LE QUANG Véronique 26.01.2014 - 17:32:

Bonjour, Je n'arrive pas à réaliser le devant gauche avec le diagramme M2. N'y a t-il pas une erreur sur la ligne N° 4 au dessus du V renversé. Sur la M1 au dessus du V renversé au rang suivant il faut faire un jeté et pas sur le M2 ligne 4. Merci d'avance de me donner l'explication. Véronique

user icon DROPS Design 27.01.2014 kl. 09:20:

Bonjour Mme Le Quand, le jeté au-dessus du "V" inversé qui est au 8ème rang de M.1 (= juste au-dessus du fameux V inversé) se trouve dans M.2 au 8ème rang, c'est-à-dire le rang suivant le V inversé tricoté sur toutes les mailles (les précédents sont des rangs raccourcis). Bon tricot!

country flag Claudia 10.09.2013 - 13:20:

Seid ihr euch sicher, dass das Diagramm für M2 richtig ist? Laut Diagramm werden Umschläge aufgenommen, die erst 3 Reihen später verarbeitet werden.

user icon DROPS Design 11.09.2013 kl. 08:08:

Liebe Claudia, das Diagramm ist korrekt. Mir ist nicht ganz klar, auf welche Stelle sich Ihre Frage bezieht, aber haben Sie gesehen, dass im Diagramm auch verkürzte R sind?

Aurora Isabel 12.06.2013 - 21:55:

Ex nas costas está escrito M3 (=5 pts)mas, o M3tem um retângulo com muitos pontos. O mesmo direi de M1 e M2, tenho dificuldade de entender como fazer embora tenha entendido cada símbolo.Não sei se consegui explicar direito a minha dúvida, sou iniciante.Comentários á parte,sou portuguesa residente no Brasil. Tenho saudades de Portugal. Grata

user icon DROPS Design 18.06.2013 kl. 10:43:

O diagrama M3 está do lado direito do desenho do modelo e tem 5 pts. Quanto aos diagramas M1 e M2, aconselhamos a que verifique o menu de vídeos que ensinam como ler um diagrama). O separador encontra-se à direita da fotografia do modelo. Para mais dúvidas, pode sempre juntar-se à página de fãs da Drops Garnstudio no Facebook. Com as nossas cordiais saudações directamente de Portugal

country flag Behnaz 04.07.2012 - 07:43:

= Dear All, Thank you for your professional web-site. Please make a video for: From WS: K first YO from previous row and slip the other off needle Best regards, BEHNAZ

user icon DROPS Design 04.12.2012 kl. 16:49:

Dear Mrs Behnaz, in the video "Dropped stitches" you will see how to do this. Happy knitting !

country flag DROPS Deutsch 07.11.2011 - 08:59:

Ich nehme an Sie sprechen von der 5. und 6. Runde in M1. Hier werden zuerst 2 M. abgekettert. Danach 4 m, 2 Umschläge, 2 zusammen, 1 m (= 6 Maschen und 2 Umschäge). Bei er nächsten R. werden 7 Maschen gestrickt,d.h. aus dem Umschlag wird eine M. herausgestrickt.

country flag Maria 04.11.2011 - 12:07:

Bei M1, nachdem man 2 Maschen abgenommen hat, bleiben 1 Masche plus 4 Maschen (also 5) vor dem doppelten Umschlag übrig. Auf der Rückseite werden, nachdem der doppelte Umschlag bearbeitet wurde, jedoch nur 4 Maschen zu stricken. Wie kann das sein?

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