DROPS / 115 / 37

DROPS 115-37 by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS waistcoat in ”Karisma” with squares. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no U-586.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-90-100-112-124-136 cm /33’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-44’’-48¾’’-53½’’
Full length: 51-51-51-60-60-60 cm /20”-20”-20”-23 5/8”-23 5/8”-23 5/8”

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 53, charcoal gray
50 g for all sizes color no 05, black
50 g for all sizes color no 19, white
50 g for all sizes color no 21, gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 1 square = 9.5 x 9.5 cm / 3¾” x 3¾”.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 sts x 12 rows in PATTERN = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS Buffalo horn buttons, no 536: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
ROW 1: 1 dc in each sc, finish row with 1 ch to turn with.
ROW 2: 1 sc in each dc, finish row with 3 ch to turn with.

DECREASING TIP (armholes):
Dec as follows at the end of row: work row until 1 st remain, turn piece and work return row.
Dec as follows at beg of row: work 1 sl st in first st, continue as before.
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WAISTCOAT: Front piece crochet in squares. Back piece + side piece crochet in pattern rows.

COLORS OF SQUARES:
SQUARE A: Beg + round 1 = charcoal gray, round 2 = gray, round 3 = white, round 4 = black, round 5 = charcoal gray.
SQUARE B: Beg + round 1 = black, round 2 = charcoal gray, round 3 = white, round 4 = gray, round 5 = charcoal gray.
SQUARE C: Beg + round 1 = white, round 2 = charcoal gray, round 3 = black, round 4 = gray, round 5 = charcoal gray.
SQUARE D: Beg + round 1 = white, round 2 = charcoal gray, round 3 = gray, round 4 = black, round 5 = charcoal gray.

WHOLE SQUARE:
Crochet 6 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch, 2 dc in ring, * 3 ch, 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 2: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, * 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 3: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 4: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 5: Crochet 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Square measures approx 9.5 x 9.5 cm / 3¾” x 3¾”.

HALF SQUARE:
Read US/UK above! Crochet 6 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROW 1: 4 ch, 3 dc in ring, 3 ch, 3 dc in ring, 1 ch, 1 dc in ring. Turn piece.
ROW 2: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop (= corner), 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch. Turn piece.
ROW 3: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop (= corner), 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch. Turn piece.
ROW 4: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, * 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 ch, 1 dc in the last ch. Turn piece.
ROW 5: Crochet 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch.

NUMBER OF SQUARES:
SIZE S-M-L: Crochet 4 whole + 1 half square of A, 5 whole squares of B, 2 whole + 2 half squares of C and 3 whole + 1 half square of D = a total of 14 whole and 4 half squares.
SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL: Crochet 4 whole + 2 half squares of A, 6 whole squares of B, 3 whole + 2 half squares of C and 5 whole squares of D = a total of 18 whole and 4 half squares.

BACK PIECE + SIDE PIECE: Crochet the first 12 cm / 4¾’’ in 2 parts (for split mid back).

PART-1 (= left side includes buttonhole band): Crochet 38-45-54-66-78-90 loose ch on crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with charcoal gray. Crochet first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 1-3-2-4-1-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 30-36-43-53-62-72 sc. Continue in PATTERN – see above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾’’ put it aside.

PART-2 (= right side includes buttonhole band): Crochet like part-1, but when piece measures approx 5 cm / 2’’ – adjust so that next row is a row with dc - make 1 buttonhole towards mid back by replacing the last but 2 dc towards mid back with 1 ch, on next row crochet 1 sc in ch. Repeat when piece measures 10 cm / 4’’. Put piece aside when it measures 12 cm / 4¾’’ (adjust to no of rows on part-1.

BACK PIECE + SIDE PIECE:
Place part-1 and part-2 over each other (right side over left side) with 6 sts overlapping mid back – (i.e. 1 row crochet through 2 layers on these 6 sts) = 54-66-80-100-118-138 sts. Continue in pattern, AT THE SAME TIME on next row with dc inc 1 st each side by working 2 dc in the last but 1 dc each side. Repeat the inc on every other row a total of 9 times = 72-84-98-118-136-156 sts.
When piece measures 30-29-28-36-35-34 cm / 11¾”-11 3/8”-11”-14¼”-13¾”-13 3/8” bind off for armhole as follows:

RIGHT SIDE PIECE:
Continue in pattern as before on the 0-3-5-7-8-11 outermost sts at the side (the next 5-5-8-14-21-25 sts = armhole - in size S all sts on side piece = armhole). Now dec 1 st on every row towards armhole until all sts have been dec – SEE DECREASING TIP!

LEFT SIDE PIECE:
Like right side piece.

BACK PIECE:
Crochet back and forth on the middle 62-68-72-76-78-84 sts only, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards armhole each side on every row until 62 sts remain (for all sizes). When piece measures 46-46-46-55-55-55 cm / 18”-18”-18”-21 5/8”-21 5/8”-21 5/8” crochet 2 rows on 16 sts each side only (the middle 30 sts = neckline). Cut the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew squares tog to 2 front pieces as shown in chart – sew edge to edge with charcoal gray in outer loops of sts. Sew front pieces to back piece and sew shoulder seams in the same way.

BORDER ARMHOLE:
Crochet 2-2-2-5-5-5 rounds with sc round armholes with charcoal gray and crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 - approx 16 sc per 10 cm / 4’’ – make sure border is even, i.e. not too many sc.

BORDER WAISTCOAT:
Crochet a border round the whole waistcoat with charcoal gray on crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7. Beg at bottom of split on back piece, continue along bottom edge, up along right front piece, round neck, down along left front piece and along bottom edge to split mid back (i.e. do not crochet each side of split mid back)
Crochet 5 rows back and forth with sc - approx 16 sc per 10 cm / 4’’ - NOTE: in all outward facing corners crochet 3 sc and in all inward facing corners skip 1 st.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 (= WS) make 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttonholes on right front band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = 2 ch and skip 2 sc, on next row crochet 2 sc in each ch-loop. Make 1 buttonhole in each dcansition between the squares.
Sew 2 buttons to split mid back and 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttons to left front band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 13.11.2009
HALF SQUARE:
ROW 3: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop (= corner), 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch. Turn piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 115-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

Claudia 27.09.2019 - 14:29:

Ich häkle Größe M, leider nein, vll steh ich auch auf der Leitung.

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 15:52:

Liebe Claudia, in der Größe M häkeln Sie dann nur die 3 Maschen für das rechte Vorderteil (= überspringen Sie 5 Maschen = Armloch, und dann häkeln Sie die 3 Maschen und dann 1 M abnehmen bis alle Maschen abgenommen Sind. Bei linken Seitenteil häkeln Sie genauso aber spiegelsverkehr = es sind 5 Maschen die nicht gearbeitet werden = Armlöcher. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Claudia 27.09.2019 - 11:25:

Es steht ja auch nach 29 cm abketten für Armloch, beim Bild sind aber bei Größe M 48cm angegeben bei der Bemaßung oder sehe ich das falsch?

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 13:35:

Liebe Claudia, siehe Antwort unten und sagen Sie uns, ob es jetzt klarer wird. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Claudia 27.09.2019 - 11:20:

Ich komme hier leider nicht weiter RECHTES SEITENTEIL: Mit dem Muster nur über die äussersten 0-3-5-7-8-11 M. weiterfahren (die nächsten 5-5-8-14-21-25 M. = Armloch – in Grösse S fallen alle M. für das Seitenteil beim Armloch weg). Weiter bei jeder R. gegen die Seite je 1 M. abn. bis alle M. des Seitenteils abgenommen sind – SIEHE TIPP ZUM ABNEHMEN!

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 13:34:

Liebe Claudia, bei der Größe S stricken Sie keine Masche für rechtes und links Vorderteil = die 5 Maschen beidseitig vom Rücken und Seitenteil sind für die Armlöcher, dh Sie häkeln einfach über die mittleren 62 M für das Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Claudia 23.09.2019 - 17:14:

Ich komme mit den zwei Teilen am Rücken nicht klar, was soll das heißen? 1. R. wie folgt: 1 fM in die 2. Lm von der Nadel gesehen, 1 fM in jede der 1-3-2-4-1-3 Lm nächsten Lm, * 1 Lm überspringen, 1 fM in jede der 4 nächsten *, von *-* wiederholen = 30-36-43-53-62-72 fM. Bitte um Hilfe

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 10:07:

Liebe Claudia, Man überspringt in der ersten R in regelmäßigen Abständen 1 Lm, damit der Rand nicht zu stramm und eng wird und elastisch bleibt - in der Regel häkelt man die Lm etwas fester als später die M, um das auszugleichen, schlägt man mehr Lm an. Wenn Ihnen das mit den Löchern gar nicht gefällt und Sie sehr lockere Lm anschlagen, können Sie auch nur die Anzahl der Lm anschlagen, die Sie in der 2. R für die fM brauchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Lotta Stenegård 14.12.2018 - 19:05:

Förstår inte hur jag ska virka avm mot armhålor Står jag ska virka yttersta maskor mot armhål Rita gärba hur jag ska göra

DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 10:46:

Hei Lotta. Istedenfor å hekle over alle maskene, skal du nå kun hekle over de ytterste maskene i hver side. Begynn med det ene ermhullet. Du hekler frem og tilbake, og på hver omgang som starter ved ermhullet feller du 1 stav. Du fortsetter slik til du har felt alle de 0-3-5-7-8-11 maskene. Så gjør du det samme på den andre siden = det andre ermhullet. God fornøyelse

SF 06.08.2017 - 08:06:

If you have been doing crochet for a while and think you have 'nailed it', try this pattern to exercise your brain (and patience). The instructions are made by someone who really knows the pattern and how to make it. The problem lies with the same person being totally unable to explain how to do it to another person - even when they ask in the comments section! The back bit can be explained by looking at the photo as it shows the 'flap' with two buttons for decoration.

Jette Stæhr Nielsen 26.04.2016 - 21:13:

Er meget betaget af denne smukke vest, har gennem årene hæklet/strikket rigtig mange ting, men denne opskrift er en af de svære, har problemer med at forstå opskriften, men hvis jeg bliver ved længe nok finder jeg nok ud af den, det er første gang jeg nogensinde har haft det svært med en opskrift. Har hæklet i 6 år og strikket i snart 50 år. mvh Jette

Abbe 15.03.2015 - 08:59:

I am very confused by the armhole decreases. I assume you decrease right side, crochet along back and then decrease left side, is that correct? I don't really understand the instructions for back Crochet on the middle stitches only? Is the back longer than the side pieces? Don't you do all the armhole decreases across the garment as a whole?

DROPS Design 16.03.2015 kl. 09:05:

Dear Abbe, back and side pieces (under armholes + a small part of front piece as shown in diagram) are worked at the same time. You then first crochet the dec for armholes towards front pieces (so each side separately), then work back piece over the middle sts on back (the unworked sts between back & each side piece = armhole). Happy crocheting!

Ablou 04.03.2015 - 08:52:

The instructions say: Assembly: Sew squares tog to 2 front pieces. Is there a special way of sewing them together? I understand they are to be put in order as seen in the chart but I'm curious about the actual sewing technique. Please expand

DROPS Design 04.03.2015 kl. 09:44:

Dear Ablou, the video below shows how to sew squares together. Happy crocheting!

Zanna 09.12.2014 - 19:38:

Jag körde fast med en gång. Första delen till bakstycket. Jag har gjort luft maskorna men andra varvet fattar jag ingenting av. Förklara gärna. (På svenska )

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