DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Baby Ull
DROPS Baby Ull
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS AW2425

Pink Pixie

DROPS jumper in Vienna or Melody. Hat and mittens in Vienna and Baby-ull or Melody and Alpaca. Neck warmer in Karisma Superwash.

DROPS Baby 10-15
JUMPER:
Size: 2 – 3/4 – 5/6 – 7/8 years
Size in cm: 86/92 – 98/104 – 110/116 – 122/128

Materials:
DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200 g colour no 36, pink

Or use:
DROPS Melody from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150 g colour no 06, powder pink

DROPS pointed needles size 5 and 6 mm
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HAT:
Size: 2 – 3/5 – 6/8 years
To fit head circumference: approx 46-48-50 cm

Materials:
DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g colour no 36, pink
and use:
DROPS Baby-ull from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g colour no 06, pink

Or use:
DROPS Melody from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g colour no 06, powder pink
and use:
DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g colour no 3112, dusty pink

DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm
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Neck Warmer:
Size: 2 – 3/5 – 6/8 – 9/10 years
Materials:
DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100 g colour no 33, rose

DROPS pointed needles size 4 mm and small circular needle size 2.5 mm
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MITTENS:
Size: 2 – 3/5 – 6/8 – 9/10 years
Materials: DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g, colour no 36, pink
and use:
DROPS Baby-ull from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g colour no 06, pink

Or use:
Materials: DROPS Melody from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g, colour no 06, powder pink
and use:
DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g colour no 3112, dusty pink

DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Baby Ull
DROPS Baby Ull
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER:
Knitting tension: 14 sts x 16 rows in stocking sts on needle size 6 mm = 10 x 10 cm
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Garter sts, back and forth: Knit all rows.

Front piece: Cast on 54-58-62-62 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with Vienna or Melody and knit 6 cm Rib with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. Change to needle size 6 mm and continue in stocking sts, at the same time dec 2 sts in the 3 smaller sizes = 52-56-60-62 sts. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 24-25-27-29 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-2-3-2 times = 36-42-44-48 sts. When piece measures 31-34-36-40 cm cast off the middle 8-10-10-12 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 9-11-12-13 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 37-40-43-47 cm.

Back piece: Cast on and knit as front piece. Cast off for armhole as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 35-38-41-45 cm. Now cast off the middle 16-18-18-20 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 9-11-12-13 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 37-40-43-47 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 30-30-30-34 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with Vienna or Melody and knit 6 cm Rib with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. Change to needle size 6 mm and knit stocking sts, at the same time inc 1 st each side a total of 3-6-7-8 times on every 9-4-4-3.5 cm = 36-42-44-50 sts. When sleeve measures 26-29-34-37 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-2 times, 1 st 3-1-0-0 times, 2 sts until piece measures 31-35-40-43 cm and 3 sts each side until piece measures 33-36-41-44 cm. Cast of remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew right shoulder seam. Pick up approx 50-58 sts (divisible by 4 + 2) round the neck on needle size 5 mm with Vienna or Melody – begin at left shoulder. Knit 6 cm Rib with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. Cast off. Sew left shoulder seam and up along the neck. Set in sleeves and sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st.
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HAT:
Knitting Tension: 16 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4.5 mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm
Garter sts, back and forth: Knit all rows.

Cast on 70-74-78 sts on needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread Vienna and 1 thread Baby-ull (double thread) or 1 thread Melody and 1 thread Alpaca (double thread). Knit garter sts. When piece measures 12-12-13 cm dec 5-5-8 sts evenly on row. Repeat this dec on every 2-2-3 cm until there are 10-9-6 sts left on needle, hat measures approx 36-38-40 cm. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew the hat tog mid back, in the outer loops in order to avoid a chunky seam.
------------------------------------------------------------

NECK WARMER:

Knitting Tension: 21 sts x 42 rows on needle size 4 mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*
Garter sts, back and forth: Knit all rows.

The yoke of the neck warmer is knitted in 2 pieces on needles size 4 mm and piece is finished on small circular needle size 2.5 mm. Cast on 29-31-33-35 sts on needle size 4 mm with Karisma and knit garter sts, at the same time inc 1 st each side on every other row a total of 5-7-8-9 times = 39-45-49-53 sts. When piece measures 10-11-12-13 cm, put it aside and knit a similar piece. Put all sts on the same circular needle size 2.5 mm = 79-90-98-106 sts. Knit Rib, at the same time inc 20 sts evenly on first round = 98-110-118-126 sts. Cast off in Rib when the Rib neck measures approx 8-9-10-12 cm.
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MITTENS:

Knitting Tension: 16 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4.5 mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm
Garter sts: Knit all rows.

The mitten is knitted back and forth on needles lengthwise. Cast on 24-26-29-31 sts on needles size 4.5 mm with 1 thread Vienna and 1 thread Baby-ull (double thread) or 1 thread Melody and 1 thread Alpaca (double thread) and knit garter sts. When piece measures 3-3-4-4 cm dec 4 sts evenly on row = 20-22-25-27 sts. When piece measures 8-9-9-10 cm inc 1 st each side of piece for thumb as follows: 2-2-2-2 times on every other row and 2-3-4-4 times on every 4 row = 28-32-37-39 sts. When piece measures 11-13-14-15 cm put the outer most 4-5-6-6 sts each side on a thread = 20-22-25-27 sts left on needle. Insert a marking thread and measures piece from this point onwards. Continue in garter sts. When piece measures 5-6-6-7 cm dec 5-5-6-6 sts evenly on row = 15-17-19-21 sts left. Knit 1 cm and dec 5-5-3-3 sts evenly = 10-12-16-18 sts. Knit 1 cm and continue as follows:
The 2 smaller sizes: Cast off remaining sts.
The 2 bigger sizes: Dec 3 sts evenly = 13-15 sts. Knit 1 cm and cast off.
The whole mitten measures approx 18-21-23-25 cm.

Thumb: Fold the mitten double and put the 4-5-6-6 sts from threads each side on the same needle size 4.5 mm = 8-10-12-12 sts. Knit garter sts, at the same time on the first row cast on 1 new st each side = 10-12-14-14 sts. When thumb measures 2-2-3-3 cm knit all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew tight.

Assembly: Sew tog mitten with Vienna in the outer loop of the outer most sts. Beg at the top of the thumb and work towards the bottom and back up to the top. Then sew the seam from the thumb to the top of mitten.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Catarina Smith wrote:

Hej! Jag vill sticka "Pink Pixie", Drops vienna har utgått och Drops Melody har inte rätt färg (tycker jag). Kan jag byta till Drops Air??? Har försökt läsa konverterarguiden utan att förstå. Är nybörjare. Tacksam för svar. Vänliga hälsningar från Catarina S

28.01.2024 - 04:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Catharina. Du kan bytte ut DROPS Vienna med 2 tråder DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk eller 2 tråder DROPS Sky eller 3 tråder DROPS Kid-Silk. Om du ønsker å strikke den med DROPS Air må du også ha 1 tråd DROPS Kid -Silk. Men uansett hva du bytter til må du få den oppgitte strikkefastheten som står i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

05.02.2024 - 11:09

country flag Mariethe House wrote:

Pouvez-vous me dire ce qu'est le baby-Ull, s'il vous plaît?

19.11.2013 - 22:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme House, Baby Ull est une qualité "ancienne" qui n'est plus disponible. Vous retrouverez toutes ces caractéristiques dans le tableau récapitulatif des qualités épuisées, votre magasin DROPS pourra vous conseiller si nécessaire. Bon tricot!

20.11.2013 - 09:21

country flag Satu wrote:

Ohjeessa on käyetty Baby-Ull lankaa mutta sitä ei löydy kaupastanne/jälleenmyyjiltänne. Mikä lanka voisi korvata sen?

23.11.2012 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Baby-Ull -lankaa voidaan korvata Baby Merino -langalla. Siinä on sama neuletiheys.

29.11.2012 - 14:48

country flag Sinne wrote:

Hvad er det Baby-Ull som nævnes? Kan ikke se det under garntyperne

26.07.2010 - 12:41