DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Baby 18-30
Measurements: approx 65 x 80 cm
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400 g colour no 01, off-white

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250 gr colour no 01, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm (80 cm) –or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS. Row 1 = RS. NOTE: make sure to count no of sts after row 5 and 6 in M.1.
To fit in all sts work blanket back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 127 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Sky and work garter st back and forth on needle – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 14 cm inc 14 sts evenly on the middle 77 sts – inc from WS by working 2 sts in approx every 5th st = 141 sts. Continue from RS as follows: 24 garter sts, 1 stocking st, M.1 on the next 91 sts (= 7 repeats across the row), 1 stocking st, 24 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this until piece measures approx 65 cm – adjust to a full repeat of M.1 – and now dec 14 sts evenly on the middle 91 sts = 127 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 79 cm, cast off.

Crochet a border with crochet hook size 3.5 mm and 1 thread round the blanket as follows: * 1 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr in the first of these ch, skip 3 sts/6 rows garter st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 18-30

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Comments / Questions (181)

country flag Sophie wrote:

Hello, I have a question regarding the diminution. How do I do 14 diminutions between the 91 central stitches? I am not clear how as I don't get 14 but 11 or 13 diminutesion and don't see how to get 14. Many thanks !

03.05.2023 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sophie, in this lesson we explain how to decrease evenly on a row. Happy knitting!

03.05.2023 - 15:51

country flag Paulina wrote:

Dzień dobry chciałam zapytać jak mam te oczka zamykać: równomiernie zamknąć 14 o. w 91 o. środk. = 127 o. Przerobic dwa jako jedno? Dziękuję i pozdrawiam

16.11.2022 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Paulino, 1 oczko zamykasz przerabiając 2 oczka razem, zobacz film TUTAJ. Powtarzaj tą sekwencję w regularnych odstępach (mniej więcej) jeszcze 14 razy ponad 91 oczkami środkowymi. Pozdrawiamy!

17.11.2022 - 09:14

country flag Jessica wrote:

Hei igjen og takk for svar. Jeg fikk allikevel ikke helt svar på det siste jeg lurte på om mønsteret. Skal ikke dette være et havmønster? For det blir ikke det når jeg strikker som forklart.

11.10.2022 - 07:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jessica. Om du har snakket med andre, som kanskje har strikket et babyteppe med Havskum mønster, er det mulig at det der står en annen forklaring (har ikke andre sine mønster tilgjengelig for å sjekke). Dette babyteppet er strikket med bølgemønster, og følger du oppskriften / diagrammet som forklart vil resultatet bli som du ser på bildet. mvh DROPS Design

17.10.2022 - 10:24

country flag Jessica wrote:

Første linje strikker jeg mønster og så strikker jeg vrang tilbake. Så kommer det folk sier forskjellig: den neste linjen som er blanke ruter, betyr den at jeg skal strikke en linje rett og så vrang tilbake, eller viser den bare at jeg skal strikke vrangt tilbake fra den første linjen?Utgjør mønsteret altså 6 rader eller 3? Og så, når jeg søker opp havskum mønster så er ikke den lik som dette mønsteret. Der er det «2m rett sammen» både før og etter kastene i stedet?

10.10.2022 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jessica, Mønsteret er 6 rad i høyden. Åpne ruter er strikket rett fra retten og vrang fra vrangen. Så mønster på rad 1, strikker vrang tilbake på rad 2, mønster på rad 3, vrang tilbake på rad 4, mønster på 5 og vrang på 6, osv. God fornøyelse!

11.10.2022 - 07:06

country flag Aga wrote:

Czy jest gdzieś film instruktażowy jak zrobić pikotkę z tego wzoru (tutaj są tylko filmiki jak zrobić części składowe słupki, oczka ściśle itp.) ? "1 oś, 4 oł, 1 sł w 1-sze z 3 oł, ominąć 3 o./6 rz. ściegiem francuskim * powt. od *do *"

10.07.2022 - 11:24

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, zobacz filmik TUTAJ. Technika jest ta sama, tylko omijasz inną liczbę oczek/rzędów. Pozdrawiamy!

11.07.2022 - 09:39

country flag Anna wrote:

Czy mogłabym prosic o wytłumaczenie jak dodać te oczka ? "Na wys. 14 cm od dołu robótki, równomiernie dodać 14 o. w 77 o. środk. – dodawać na lewej stronie robótki przerabiając 2 razy to samo o. co 5 o. = 141 o"

27.06.2022 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Anno, przerób 3 pierwsze oczka z tych 77 o. środkowych. Następnie w kolejne oczko dodaj 1 oczko przerabiając 2 razy to samo oczko (wkłuwając drut raz z przodu, a raz z tyłu tego samego oczka - patrz video pod wzorem 'Dodawanie oczek 1-przerobić 2 razy to samo oczko'). *Dalej przerób 4 kolejne oczka i w 5-te oczko dodaj 1 oczko jak wyżej*. Powtarzaj sekwencję od *-* jeszcze 12 razy. Powodzenia!

27.06.2022 - 21:44

country flag Gravina wrote:

Bonjour Sur ce modèle, je ne comprends pas la 5eme ligne du diagramme M1, à savoir le "jeté entre 2 mailles". Quelqu'un pourrat me détailler ? Merci d'avance Véronique

26.03.2022 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, tricotez ce rang ainsi: 2 m ens à l'end, (1 jeté, 1 m end)x5, 1 jeté, glissez 1 m à l'end, tricotez 1 m end et passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée = vous avez maintenant de nouveau 13 mailles pour chaque M.1. Bon tricot!

28.03.2022 - 08:42

country flag Anna-fulvia wrote:

Je souhaite convertir un modèle drop sky en baby mérino et un autre alpaca en baby mérino, mais cela semble impossible dans le convertisseur : pourquoi ? merci de votre retour. Cordialement.

22.02.2022 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna-fulvia, parce que Baby Mérinos appartient au groupe de fils A et Sky au groupe de fils B et ne sont donc pas interchangeables. Retrouvez plus d'informations sur les alternatives ici. Bon tricot!

23.02.2022 - 08:21

country flag Linda wrote:

När jag stickar rad 3 på mönstret så börjar det en maska in om man jämför rad 1. Ska jag sticka rätstickning eller slätstickning på de maskorna in på rad 3 och 5 ( både när jag börjar och slutar M1)?

28.12.2021 - 13:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Linda. Det er bare maskeantallet i M.1 som forandrer seg. Det skal alltid strikkes 24 masker i rille (rätstickning ), 1 maske glattstrikk (slätstickning ) i begynnelse, deretter M.1 over 91 masker, så 1 maske glattstrikk (slätstickning ) og 24 masker rille (rätstickning ) på slutten av pinnen. mvh DROPS Design

04.01.2022 - 14:07

country flag Nina wrote:

I oppskriften står det at man skal strikke mønsteret til arbeidet måler 65 cm. Siden mønsteret er buet viser arbeidet 65 cm på midten og 61 når jeg måler rillekantene. Er det nå jeg skal stanse med mønster når arbeidet som sådan når 65 cm eller når mønsteret er 65 cm?

13.07.2021 - 11:08