100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 11-27
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
250-300-350-350 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS pointed needles size 9 mm
DROPS burned wooden button, no 511: 4 – 4 – 5 - 5 pcs


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Tension: 11 sts x 15 rows on needle size 9mm needle in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Garter sts (back and forth): Knit all rows

Front band: = 3 sts towards the middle on front pieces. Garter sts throughout.

Button holes: Make buttonholes on right front from the RS. 1 buttonhole = K2 tog, yarn over needle, knit 1. Knit yarn over needle into back of st on the return row. Make button holes when front measures:
1/3 mths: 6, 12, 18 and 24 cm
6/9 mths: 6, 13, 19 and 26 cm
12/18 mths: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 29 cm
24 mths: 6, 13, 19, 26 and 34 cm

Decreasing: applies to raglan decreases. Decrease within 1 st as follows:
From the RS: after 1 st: K2 tog; before 1 st: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
From the WS: before 1 st: P2 tog; after 1 st: P2 tog into back of st.

Cast on 30-34-38-42 sts on needle size 9mm needle with Snow. Work 4 rows garter sts and continue in stocking sts. When back measures 12-13-15-18 cm, purl one row from the RS, and continue in stocking sts. When back measures 18-19-22-25 cm, cast off 3 sts each side for armhole = 24-28-32-36 sts. Work 3 rows and dec for raglan each side (see Decreasing above) on every other row as follows: 1 st 6-6-7-7 times and on every row 1 st 0-2-2-4 times. Cast off remaining 12-12-14-14 sts. Piece measures approx 28-30-34-39 cm.

Cast on 18-20-22-24 sts (includes 3 front band sts) on needle size 9 mm. Work 4 rows garter sts and continue in stocking sts (see Front band above). When front piece measures 12-13-15-18 cm purl one row from the RS, and continue in stocking sts. When front measures 18-19-22-25 cm, cast off 3 sts at side for armhole = 15-17-19-21 sts and dec for raglan as described for back piece. At the same time: when front measures 25-27-30-35 cm, put 5-5-6-6 sts (incl the 3 band sts) on a thread or stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline on every row starting from neckline as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = no sts left. Front measures approx 28-30-34-39 cm.

As left front, but mirrored (remember buttonholes!).

Cast on 20-22-22-24 sts using 9mm needle. Work 4 rows garter sts and continue in stocking sts. When sleeve measures 5 cm, purl 1 row from the RS, and continue in stocking sts. When sleeve measures 6 cm, inc 1 st each side on every 4 – 4.5 – 4 - 4 cm a total of 3-3-4-5 times = 26-28-30-34 sts. When sleeve measures 18-20-22-25 cm cast off 3 sts each side for sleeve cap. Dec for raglan (see Decreasing) on every other row: 1 st 7-8-9-10 times and on every row 1 st 0-0-0-1 times. Cast off remaining 6 sts. The sleeve measures approx 28-31-34-39 cm.

Cast on 9-10-10-11 sts using 9mm needle and knit garter sts for 6-7-8-9 cm, cast off. Knit two and sew the pockets to the RS of cardigan approx 3-3-4-5 cm from bottom front edge.

Join sleeve and body raglan seams from the RS within ½ edge st in order the seams don’t become to thick/bulky.

Pick up approx 32-38 sts (including sts on thread or stitch holder on front pieces) using 9mm needle and work stocking sts (continue in garter sts over the 3 front band sts each side). When hood measures 1 cm, increase to 38-40-42-44 sts evenly on row. Continue in stocking sts and cast off when hood measures 21-23-25-27 cm. Sew hood together at the top from the RS.

Sew side and sleeve seams from the RS within ½ edge st. Sew on buttons.


diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Susan McMurrich wrote:

As to above answer. Im not sure I was clear with my question. once the 6 stitches are on the holder Im talking about the remaining stitches. It doesnt say how many to have left I would probably need to do another 10 rows to complete the cast off stitch by stitch. Is this ok. So the top of the neck edge at the front would be higher than the ones on the holder.....??

21.08.2020 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McMurrich, at the beg of a row from neck (towards armhole) you work the first 6 sts and slip them on a thread, work row to the end, turn and work return row. Now cast off at the beg of every row from neck 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = if your tension is right in height, you should have now reach same height as on back piece, now cast off all sts. The 6 sts from stitch holder will be knitted later when working the hood. Hope this now answers the question. Happy knitting!

24.08.2020 - 08:01

country flag Susan McMurrich wrote:

Im completing the baby its cold out and having trouble with the front pieces. when I get to 13 3/4 " and put the 6 stitches on the holder I have too many stitches left to complete as described. If I go on casting off one at a time it is way higher than the stitches on the holder - is this supposed to happen?

20.08.2020 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McMurrich, make sure you get the correct tension in height, if yours is different, adjust the height of stitches put on a st holder for neck so that both shoulders will match together. Happy knitting!

21.08.2020 - 07:50

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hallo. Warum werden die beiden Vorderteile und das Rückenteil einzeln gestrickt? Kann ich die drei Teile gemeinsam aufnehmen und stricken oder funktioniert das mit den Raglan Nähten bei den Ärmeln dann nicht? Vielen Dank

04.12.2019 - 21:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, wenn Sie die drei Teile gemeinsam stricken wollen, dann passen Sie die angeschlagtene Maschenanzahl an (Randmaschen brauchen Sie dann nicht); beachten Sie nur, daß nähen manchmal mehr "Stabilität" bring. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.12.2019 - 10:04

country flag Camilla wrote:

Hej. Jag förstår inte "2 m 1 gång och 1 m 2 ggr" i framstyckena. Hur gör man? Borde jag inte maska av alla resterande när jag spar de 6 andra maskorna? Det blir ju som en längre kant annars?

12.11.2018 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, nej du ska maska av för halsen på vartannat varv först 2 maskor en gågng och sedan 1 maska 2 gånger. Detta för att halsen ska få en fin rund form.

14.11.2018 - 17:29

country flag Beatrice Felder wrote:

Beim Rückenteil für den Raglan verstehe ich nicht genau wie es gemeint ist mit der Maschenabnahme. Soll man 4 Reihen stricken und in jeder von diesen 4 Reihen je eine Masche abketten, dann 2 Reihen stricken und in jeder von diesen 2 Reihen je 5 bzw. 6 Maschen abketten und dann in jeder weiteren Reihe, bis 14 Maschen übrig sind, je 0 bzw. 2 bzw. 4 Maschen abketten. Danke für ihre rasche Antwort und tolle Anleitung.

08.09.2016 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Felder, am Rückenteil müssen Sie zuerst 3 R stricken, dann am 4. R (= von der Vorderseite) 1 M auf jeder Seiten abnehmen, dann *1 Reihe ohne Abn. stricken, 1 Reihe mit Abn stricken*, von *-* 6 Mal insgesamt wiederholen, dann in jeder R 1 M abn (= ins 2-4 mal - siehe Grösse). Siehe "Tipp für das Abenehmen (gilt für Raglanabnahme)".

08.09.2016 - 16:11

country flag Anni wrote:

Toll, diese Jacke! Allerdings ist uns bei der Anleitung aufgefallen, dass das Garn nicht ausgereicht hat. Es waren 300g angegeben für die größte Größe. Meine Mutter hat aber eine Zwischengröße gestrickt (etwas kleiner als die größte Größe) und wir mussten leider nochmal ein Garn nachbestellen. Also brauchte sie 350g. Und sie strickt ganz normal. Also bestellt lieber 50g mehr.

14.11.2015 - 00:44

country flag Danielle wrote:

Ik kom niet uit bij het linkervoorpand. Ik start met 22 steken. Dan minder ik er eerst drie voor het armsgat = 19 steken. Dan minder ik voor de mouwen (totaal 9 steken) en ondertussen zet ik 6 steken bij 30 cm op een stekenhouder. Dan heb ik dus 4 steken over en die moet ik afkanten voor de hals dus dan houd ik geen steken over... In het patroon staat echter: kant bij 34 cm de rest van de steken af (staat niet bij hoeveel). Wat gaat hier fout? Groet, Danielle

01.08.2015 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Danielle. Ik zie dat het een klein vertaalfoutje is. Je moet klaar zijn met alle minderingen / afkanten bij ca. 34 cm - je houdt inderdaad geen steken over. Ik heb het aangepast

03.08.2015 - 14:56

Carolyn Jones wrote:

Having great difficulty understanding the pattern, knitted the back up to armhole now trying to decrease for raglan but pattern very difficult to understand from "Decrease for raglan each side" Help!

17.05.2015 - 05:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jones, when decreasing for raglan, please follow instructions under "Decreasing" at the beg of the pattern, ie dec from RS after 1st st on row and before last st on row = 2 sts dec. Happy knitting!

18.05.2015 - 09:46

country flag Maria wrote:

Hej, som Sinne skrev i 2010, så er der i den danske opskrift angivet lavere garnforbrug end i den engelske opskrift. Det ville være lækkert for fremtidige strikkede hvis det blev rettet :)

16.01.2015 - 16:26

country flag Helmi wrote:

Hei. Erittäin suureksi harmikseni huomasin, että kokoon 6/9kk varaamani 250g ei riittänyt tarpeeksi isoon huppuun. Saman erän lankaa en taida saada enää mistään. Laittakaa ohjeeseen sellainen lankamäärä että mieluummin jää vähän yli koska tässä vaiheessa harmittaa niin kovasti. Täytyy kai purkaa taskut ja jatkaa huppua sillä langalla. Argh.

18.04.2014 - 08:40