DROPS / 110 / 23

Tasia by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket in moss st with round yoke in ”Merino extra fine”. Size S – XXXL.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Merino extra fine
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour no 07, light brown mix

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm) size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS Buffalo borh button no 536: 3 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Pattern: See diagram M.1, M.2, and M.3. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS.
Decreasing tip-1, applies to yoke:
Dec 1 st in each P-section by P2 tog at the right and at the left side alternately in P-section.
Decreasing tip-2, applies to neckline:
Dec from the RS inside 10 front band sts.
Dec as follows after 10 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 10 sts: K2 tog. Increasing tip, applies to collar:
Inc 1 st inside 2 sts by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
Buttonholes: Cast off for buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off 5th and 6th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 18, 28 and 38 cm
Size M: 19, 29 and 39 cm
Size L: 20, 30 and 40 cm
Size XL: 21, 31 and 41 cm
Size XXL: 22, 32 and 42 cm
Size XXXL: 23, 33 and 43 cm

Body piece: Worked back and forth on needle from mid front. Cast on 203-223-239-259-279-299 sts (includes 10 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Merino. K 1 row from WS and continue in garter st – see above. When piece measures 4 cm work next row as follows from the RS: 10 garter sts (front band), M.1 on the next 183-203-219-239-259-279 sts, 10 garter sts (front band). Remember the knitting tension! Insert 2 MT (= marking threads) in piece, 54-59-63-68-73-78 sts in from each side (= 95-105-113-123-133-143 sts between MT on back piece).
Now read all of the following section before continuing:
Decreases: Continue in M.1 – at the same time when piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st on each side of both MT and repeat the dec on every 5 cm another 5 times = 179-199-215-235-255-275 sts.
Pattern: At the same time When piece measures approx 15 cm (adjust to after a full repeat of M.1) continue in M.2 on all sts (with front bands in garter st as before). After 2 vertical repeats of M.2, continue in M.3 (= moss st).
Buttonholes: When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm cast off for buttonholes on right front piece – see above!
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm cast off 6 sts each side for armhole (= 3 sts on each side of both MT) = 167-187-203-223-243-263 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 68-72-76-80-84-88 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Merino. Work 6 cm garter st and continue in M.3. When piece measures 22 cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm = 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.
Yoke: Slip sleeves in on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 291-319-343-371-399-427 sts. K 4 rows (first row = RS) on all sts, at the same time on the last row adjust no of sts to 293-317-341-373-397-429 sts (do not dec on front band sts).
Read all of the following section before continuing:
Pattern: Work next row from RS as follows: 10 garter sts, * K1, P7 *, repeat from *-* until 11 sts remain, K1, 10 garter sts.
Continue in rib, K1 / P7.
Neckline and collar: When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm dec 1 st each side to shape the V-neck– see Decreasing tip-2 – on every other row 12 times and then on every 4th row 5 times. At the same time inc for collar – see Increasing tip – on every other row 10 times and then on every 4th row 7 times = a total of 27 garter sts incl front band.
Raglan: When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm dec 1 st in each P-section – see Decreasing tip-1. Repeat the dec on every 8-8-10-10-12-12 row another 4 times (= K1/P2).
When all dec and inc are complete piece measures approx 54-55-60-61-64-65 cm and there are approx 135-144-153-165-174-186 sts on row. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm K 1 row from the RS, at the same time dec evenly to 96-100-104-108-112-116 sts – Note: Do not dec on the 27 garter sts.
On next row cast off the middle 42-46-50-54-58-62 sts on back piece for neck. Slip the 27 garter sts on the left side of piece on a stitch holder and continue on the 27 sts on the right side of piece for collar as follows * work 2 rows garter st on all sts, work 2 rows garter st on the 14 sts towards mid front only *, repeat from *-* until collar measure 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm on the shorter side from where sts were cast off for neckline on back piece. Cast off. Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and work these in the same way
Assembly: Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 110-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

Giorgia 20.12.2019 - 23:47:

Buonasera. Sono arrivata alla scollatura. Diminuire/aumentare a ferri alterni si intende contando solo i ferri a diritto del lavoro? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 21.12.2019 kl. 18:52:

Buonasera Giorgia, si, deve lavorare aumenti e diminuzioni sul diritto del lavoro! Buon lavoro!

Doris 05.06.2018 - 17:30:

Liebes Drops-Team, jetzt bin ich mit den Zu- und Abnahmen durch und die Jacke sieht schon toll aus :-) Allerdings hakt es bei mir mal wieder am Verständnis. Was ist gemeint mit: "Nach 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm 1 R. re. auf rechts stricken und gleichzeitig die Maschenanzahl auf 96-100-104-108-112-116 M. anpassen.", wie geht "1 Runde rechts auf rechts stricken, wenn ich doch bisher noch ein Rippenmuster habe? Nochmal Danke für Ihre Hilfe!

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 09:39:

Liebe Doris, nach 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm stricken Sie eine Hinreihe rechts und gleichzeitig regelmäßig abnehmen um die Maschenanzhal auf 96-100-104-108-112-116 M anpassen (über die ersten und letzten 27 M der Reihe soll es nicht abgenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Doris 15.05.2018 - 23:08:

Liebes Drops-Team, habe jetzt die Ärmel mit auf die Nadeln genommen und die 4 Reihen kraus rechts gestrickt. Jetzt kommt das Muster mit *1 re,7 li*. In den Rückreihen muss ich dann *1 li, 7 re* stricken. Oder? Und dann direkt die nächste Frage zur Passe: Wo/an welcher Stelle des Musters müssen die Maschen ok zusammen gestrickt werden? Danke für Ihre Hilfe

DROPS Design 16.05.2018 kl. 09:18:

Liebe Doris, ja so wird das Rippenmuster gestrickt - für die Rundpasse werden Sie nach 42-47 cm (siehe Grösse) in jeder li.-Partie 1 M. abnehmen - bei der 1. Abnahmenreihe stricken Sie die 2 ersten li-Ma zusammenstricken und bei der 2. Abnahmenreihe stricken Sie die 2 letzten li-Ma zusammen, diese 2 Reihe wiederholen dh abwechslungsweise auf der rechen und linken Seite jeder li-Partie abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Astrid Paulus 22.06.2016 - 10:38:

Hallo Drops-Team! Zu Beginn der Passe schreibt ihr: 4 Reihen rechts stricken. Auf dem Photo sieht´s jedoch aus, als wären es Kraus rechts Rippen. Sollen hier 4 Reihen oder 4 Rippen Kraus rechts gestrickt werden?

DROPS Design 23.06.2016 kl. 08:40:

Hallo Astrid, 4 Reihen rechts gestrickt ergeben 2 Krausrippen.

Lidia 14.06.2016 - 18:46:

Porque la mayoria de los tejidos estan en agujas circular y no asi en agujas comunes?? podrian poner la opcion de agujas comunes igual?? Gracias

DROPS Design 15.06.2016 kl. 19:46:

Hola Lidia, la aguja circular es tan común como las rectas. Se usa en nuestros modelos para minimizar el número de costuras necesarias y está muy extendida en los paises nórdicos. Muchos de los modelos sólo se pueden trabajar con ag circular, otros se podrían trabajar con ag rectas también pero tendrías que hacer los cálculos necesarios de cada parte a trabajar y luego hacer las costuras necesarias.

Andrea Blümel 25.08.2015 - 12:18:

Liebes DROPS Team! Ich fange bald mit der Abnahmen bei der Rundpasse an, da bräuchte ich Hilfe. Ist es so gemeint, dass ich abwechselnd an den Vorder- und Rückteilen auf der linken Seite an den Ärmelansätzen jeweils 1 M abnehmen? Vielen Dank im Voraus

DROPS Design 01.09.2015 kl. 15:39:

Sie nehmen nur in Hin-Reihen ab. Rechts und links bezieht sich auf die Stelle des Linksbereichs. Sie machen die Abnahmen ja immer in den Bereichen, die glatt links gestrickt werden. In der ersten Abnahme-Reihe (= Hin-R) nehmen Sie an der rechten Seite aller Glattlinksbereiche ab, in der nächsten Abnahme-Reihe (wieder eine Hin-R) nehmen Sie an der linken Seite aller Linksbereiche ab. Das machen Sie nicht nur an den Ärmelansätzen, sondern in jedem Linksbereich. Gleichzeitig müssen Sie an den Halsausschnitt und den Kragen denken.

Andrea Blümel 27.07.2015 - 20:06:

Liebes Drops-Team! Ich habe die ersten Abnahmen nach 8 cm gemacht, nur das Muster am Rückteil und an den beiden Vorderteilen ist nicht mehr so wie in den ersten Reihen. Es ist irgendwie total verrutscht. Ich bitte mal wieder um Eure Hilfe! Danke im Vorraus

DROPS Design 28.07.2015 kl. 13:10:

Liebe Andrea, achten Sie darauf, dass die Mustersätze immer übereinander liegen - an den Seiten passen die Mustersätze dann nicht mehr, weil ja abgenommen wird. D.h. an den Seiten "rückt" das Muster näher aneinander, über die restliche Jacke sollte es aber weiter passend übereinander gestrickt werden.

LE HANAFF YVELINE 13.07.2015 - 12:18:

BONJOUR POUR CE MODELE FAUT-IL METTRE LA LAINE EN DOUBLE. MERCI.

DROPS Design 27.07.2015 kl. 11:10:

Bonjour Mme Le Hannaff, cette veste se tricote avec 1 seul fil Merino Extra Fine, sur la base d'un échantillon de 20 m x 26 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

Marianne Van Der Wijk 07.05.2015 - 22:03:

Ik ben met de pas bezig. Eerste naald aan goede kant 1recht, 7 averecht . Maar hoe op de verkeerde kant? Ook 1recht, 7 averecht? Dan klopt het patroon volgens mij niet. Moet het dan niet 1averrecht en 7 recht zijn? En tip minderen pas ? Wat wordt er bedoeld met minder 1 steek om en om aan de rechter en linkerkant van elk averecht gedeelte ?

DROPS Design 08.05.2015 kl. 18:23:

Hoi Marianne. 1 r, 7 av wordt 1 av, 7 r op de verkeerde kant. Je mindert eerst aan de rechterkant (dus aan het begin) van de av-gedeelte en volgende keer minderen aan de linkerkant (= aan het eind) van het av-gedeelte en dan weer rechts (= begin) enzovoort.

Dolina Von Raedern 17.11.2013 - 17:47:

Für die Rundpasse soll in jeder li Partie 1 M abgenommen werden, das soll in jeder 8.R. wiederholt werden. Also in jeder R. oder in jeder 10.R.?

DROPS Design 19.11.2013 kl. 09:31:

Liebe Dolina, ich verstehe leider Ihre Frage nicht ganz, Sie schreiben ja selbst: in jeder 8. Reihe (also weder in jeder R noch in jeder 10. R). Habe ich etwas missverstanden?

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